Corollas2019-23ToyotasTech

Search Corolland!

How To Change The Brake Fluid Properly On My 1990 Corolla Ve?

by Bad_dude, February 15, 2009 in Pre-1997 Toyota Corolla and Geo Prizm

See every reply in these pages:



How did the brakes turn out?

Unfortunantly, I wasn't able to post up any pics - wife has the camera and I didn't get back to the camera in time to pull them off before she left for a meeting. I should be able to post up new pics this weekend, when I plan on doing the other car's brakes and catch up on other maintenance work.

Bad_dude

How did the brakes turn out?

Unfortunantly, I wasn't able to post up any pics - wife has the camera and I didn't get back to the camera in time to pull them off before she left for a meeting. I should be able to post up new pics this weekend, when I plan on doing the other car's brakes and catch up on other maintenance work.

 

My whole brake system blew up and I had to replace everything. JK!!! I had to find a joke in this long unending week. My boss's baby was borned 2 days ago. So I took one for the team and filled in his place for the rest of the week. What's bad for me is that, since we cannot have any overtime, I have to work 4 days with short tiny shifts just to avoid overtime. So no real days off this week. I had to take a lunch even with just 4 hours shift. I volunteer, it's not every week he has a baby born. So I schedule my next weekend off since he works that weekend. I'll do the brakes then. So I'll wait for your pictures this weekend. I guess I am paranoia from the last bleed many years ago. Basically I just suck out some old fluid from the reservoir and put some new fluid in without bleeding the whole system. Even though nothing was wrong with the brake system at that time, the Master cylinder failed. Then I bleed the brakes and it still failed. So I had to spend money to replaced it. That was $165. I want to do it myself now b/c it costs so much for the labor now days.

One question, unrelated to brakes. My PCV valve on this 99 Corolla VE, is always wet and seem leaky but not pouring out. It's just wet most of the time. I have replaced it 2 years ago. I took it out recently to test and it still move freely. It's still difficult to remove the valve and the gasket seems in tact. Should I replace the PCV valve or the gasket to prevent this tiny leak? Or is there something else behind this whole little leak?

Thanks.

I hear you - I'm kicking in some extra hours as well - 4 weeks of 60+ hours at work and I'm salaried. Yay! But the work is pretty flexible with hours, I'll take some time off eventually - so as to recoup some of my time back.

Hmm. Well it sounds like it is working, as stuff should be moving away from the valvecover. Possible that your not getting a strong enough vacuum to pull that exhaust blowby from the crankcase/valvecover. Might be a good idea to clean the throttlebody - the throttle plate and little bleed hole in the bottom might be gummed up. Also possible that even though the PCV is "rattling" it could be jammed open with some carbon. Either clean it in some solvent (carb / throttle body cleaner works great). Have to let it soak a bit for really stubborn deposits. Or just buy a new one.

Have you noticed any oil consumption, engine uses a lot of oil between oil changes?

Some cars just leak more than others, from the PCV valve. Some have even gotten so bad (near liquid oil runs from the valvecover to the throttle body port, gumming up the throttle body quickly) - that they had to run catch cans. Basically runs between the PCV and the TB - like a big inline filter. The catch can is cooler than the engine and usually filled with steel wool or similar - allowing oil vapors to condense and sink to the bottom of the catch can, while oil free air makes it way to the TB. Periodically you will drain the can of oil. Some just vent the thing to open air - but works much better if you put it to a vacuum source to "suck" the blowby gases out. Puts less strain on the oil seals themselves. I was considering this - but using an inline fuel filter instead - one of those semi-transparent plastic deals (cheap to replace, once they get full, just take them to same place the takes my used oil) - but haven't had the time to try it. Might give it a go soon.

Bad_dude

I hear you - I'm kicking in some extra hours as well - 4 weeks of 60+ hours at work and I'm salaried. Yay! But the work is pretty flexible with hours, I'll take some time off eventually - so as to recoup some of my time back.

Hmm. Well it sounds like it is working, as stuff should be moving away from the valvecover. Possible that your not getting a strong enough vacuum to pull that exhaust blowby from the crankcase/valvecover. Might be a good idea to clean the throttlebody - the throttle plate and little bleed hole in the bottom might be gummed up. Also possible that even though the PCV is "rattling" it could be jammed open with some carbon. Either clean it in some solvent (carb / throttle body cleaner works great). Have to let it soak a bit for really stubborn deposits. Or just buy a new one.

Have you noticed any oil consumption, engine uses a lot of oil between oil changes?

Some cars just leak more than others, from the PCV valve. Some have even gotten so bad (near liquid oil runs from the valvecover to the throttle body port, gumming up the throttle body quickly) - that they had to run catch cans. Basically runs between the PCV and the TB - like a big inline filter. The catch can is cooler than the engine and usually filled with steel wool or similar - allowing oil vapors to condense and sink to the bottom of the catch can, while oil free air makes it way to the TB. Periodically you will drain the can of oil. Some just vent the thing to open air - but works much better if you put it to a vacuum source to "suck" the blowby gases out. Puts less strain on the oil seals themselves. I was considering this - but using an inline fuel filter instead - one of those semi-transparent plastic deals (cheap to replace, once they get full, just take them to same place the takes my used oil) - but haven't had the time to try it. Might give it a go soon.

Is it possible to give me some diagram or instructions on how to clean the throttle body-plate and the bleed hole? I'll buy a new PCV valve.

It does not use much oil. The level of oil is between the 2 marks between oil chages. I use synthetic 10W30 Valvoline.

Thanks.

Bad_dude

fishexpo101,

How long did it takes you to flush the brake system with the mityvac?

Thanks.

fishexpo101,How long did it takes you to flush the brake system with the mityvac?

 

Thanks.

I had to change a caliper yesterday on my left front. it was sticking. I used a turkey baster to pull out all the old fluid. I gravity bled just the front left wheel. I only used maybe 6 ounces fluid. maybe 10 minutes to gravity drain. I will attempt to bleed the rear right when i get some time. The vacuum method would only take a couple minutes each. I did use a 5/16 hose on the bleeder screw. 1/4 would not fit without heating and stretching it.

The brakes are still pulling right and if i hit them hard , the right front will lock. The pedal is definitely softer to push meaning the caliper was part of the problem. Before i changed it I had to stand on the brakes to get some response. Braking is better but i probably need pads too because of the pull. the pads have 45000 on them . they looked fine ,but i bet one is glazed.

fishexpo101,How long did it takes you to flush the brake system with the mityvac?

 

Thanks.

Probably about 2 hours tops - that included a lot of screwing around with other things as well. Probably only about 15 minutes a corner - to pull the fluid out, and a couple checks to make sure the reservoir didn't run too low on me. Finally got the pics onto my Photobucket account, I'll post up here shortly - but it sounds like you already got it done.

 

 

Bad_dude

fishexpo101,How long did it takes you to flush the brake system with the mityvac?

 

Thanks.

Probably about 2 hours tops - that included a lot of screwing around with other things as well. Probably only about 15 minutes a corner - to pull the fluid out, and a couple checks to make sure the reservoir didn't run too low on me. Finally got the pics onto my Photobucket account, I'll post up here shortly - but it sounds like you already got it done.

 

I have not gotten it done yet. I didn't feel like it. A little paranoia with the fail master cylinder before. I got an important week coming up at work, so I'll have to delay another 2 weeks or so. It shouldn't effect it much right? The front brakes got done this weekend though. Another mechanic told me that I should never flush the brakes unless it leaks or giving me problem as the master cylinder will fail. I don't know how true that is.

My wife drives this Corolla and I drive the Accord. My accord has broken boots on the outer tie rod ends. Any DIY on how to change the boots or should I change both rods out and have an alignment? If I just change the boots without removing the rods, would I still need an alignment? It's $40 each alignment and I am tight on cash right now.

fishexpo101,How long did it takes you to flush the brake system with the mityvac?

 

Thanks.

Probably about 2 hours tops - that included a lot of screwing around with other things as well. Probably only about 15 minutes a corner - to pull the fluid out, and a couple checks to make sure the reservoir didn't run too low on me. Finally got the pics onto my Photobucket account, I'll post up here shortly - but it sounds like you already got it done.

 

I have not gotten it done yet. I didn't feel like it. A little paranoia with the fail master cylinder before. I got an important week coming up at work, so I'll have to delay another 2 weeks or so. It shouldn't effect it much right? The front brakes got done this weekend though. Another mechanic told me that I should never flush the brakes unless it leaks or giving me problem as the master cylinder will fail. I don't know how true that is.

My wife drives this Corolla and I drive the Accord. My accord has broken boots on the outer tie rod ends. Any DIY on how to change the boots or should I change both rods out and have an alignment? If I just change the boots without removing the rods, would I still need an alignment? It's $40 each alignment and I am tight on cash right now.

tie rods are cheap. like $10 each(autozone valuecraft). If you make the length exactly the same as you had before , you may not need an alignment. just measure very carefully. from the center of the stud to the rust line where the locking nut was tightened.

 

 

Bad_dude

fishexpo101,How long did it takes you to flush the brake system with the mityvac?

 

Thanks.

Probably about 2 hours tops - that included a lot of screwing around with other things as well. Probably only about 15 minutes a corner - to pull the fluid out, and a couple checks to make sure the reservoir didn't run too low on me. Finally got the pics onto my Photobucket account, I'll post up here shortly - but it sounds like you already got it done.

 

I have not gotten it done yet. I didn't feel like it. A little paranoia with the fail master cylinder before. I got an important week coming up at work, so I'll have to delay another 2 weeks or so. It shouldn't effect it much right? The front brakes got done this weekend though. Another mechanic told me that I should never flush the brakes unless it leaks or giving me problem as the master cylinder will fail. I don't know how true that is.

My wife drives this Corolla and I drive the Accord. My accord has broken boots on the outer tie rod ends. Any DIY on how to change the boots or should I change both rods out and have an alignment? If I just change the boots without removing the rods, would I still need an alignment? It's $40 each alignment and I am tight on cash right now.

tie rods are cheap. like $10 each(autozone valuecraft). If you make the length exactly the same as you had before , you may not need an alignment. just measure very carefully. from the center of the stud to the rust line where the locking nut was tightened.

 

Hi,

You said $10 each, but I checked online and nothing with that low price. Also, would you have a pic or illustration of some sort that I can follow as far as the measurement? Wouldn't the new tie rod end be just little different, enough to require the toe adjustment?

What if I just change the boots, do I need to do the alignment still?

Thanks.

I have not gotten it done yet. I didn't feel like it. A little paranoia with the fail master cylinder before. I got an important week coming up at work, so I'll have to delay another 2 weeks or so. It shouldn't effect it much right? The front brakes got done this weekend though. Another mechanic told me that I should never flush the brakes unless it leaks or giving me problem as the master cylinder will fail. I don't know how true that is.My wife drives this Corolla and I drive the Accord. My accord has broken boots on the outer tie rod ends. Any DIY on how to change the boots or should I change both rods out and have an alignment? If I just change the boots without removing the rods, would I still need an alignment? It's $40 each alignment and I am tight on cash right now.

IMHO, If that is what the mechanic truely believes - I'd get a new mechanic. That mechanic was probably feeding into your fears of a past, bad master cylinder. The brake system in the car is an "open" system - air is free to move in and out (restricted though) of the top of the reservoir. Eventually the fluid will have to be flushed out or the brakes could fail from corrosion or car wrecked from an accident (due to brake fade) when you need it. But there is no critical need to get the brakes done today - it can wait. A difference of a few weeks or even months will not hurt you here, but you do want to do them eventually.

There should be a few DIYs floating around on how to do tierods on the Accord. If the boot is torn, even for a short period of time, there is really is no point in getting just a boot, as the bearing is already contaminated with dirt. If you measure the tierod's length, very carefully, and transfer those to the new ones (measure with good ruler or count the number of turns). Best to do an alignment afterwards, but if you very careful with measuring the lengths and alignment was fine from before - you should be fine afterwards. Even if you wanted to do the boots - you still need to take off the old tierod ends - so technically, you still need to do an alignment - i'd just replace the ends with new ones and not have to mess with it down the road. Do it right the first time around and you will save time and money later.

Try http://www.rockauto.com for pricing out tierod ends - they tend to have some of the best prices around. If you prefer to pickup locally, see if they will match prices of Rockauto - something they will to earn your business.

OK - pics are finally up. Just was swamped with work stuff and getting some time off for myself. Any hoo - I've links to two different DIY topics. One is for fluid exchange /bleeding the brakes with a vacuum bleeder, the other DIY is a simple P/S fluid exchange.

Starting off with the Powersteering DIY than onto the brake DIY:

First make sure you get all your tools and fluids lined out - what I had was:

- Floor jack (scissor jack only in extreme cases - otherwise wait until you can get a real hydraulic jack)

- Jack stands for safety

- Tire iron

- Multipurpose grease (high temp disc brake grease works fine)

- Vacuum pump and collection cup

- Clear hoses (I used 1/4" I.D. silicone air "bubbler" lines)

- Waste container for old fluid (do NOT mix brake fluid and Powersteering fluid, if you plan on recycling this)

- 8mm combination wrench or flare wrench

- 10mm combincation wrench or flare wrench

- Torque wrench

- Small Wirebrush

- Penetrating Fluid (I like PB Blaster penetrating catalyst)

- Brake cleaner solvent

- Powersteering fluid (Accel fluid was stocked by the dealership - crystal clear in color. OK to use Dexron-II/III ATF fluid) - Brake fluid (DOT 3 or greater, here used Valvoline synthetic DOT 3 fluid, had Motul RBF600 previously, but ran out)

- Gloves (just to keep your hands clean)

- Papertowels, rags, empty bags

- Cold brakes and about 2 hours of time to dedicate to the car

- Level ground to work on, tire chock as necessary

The powersteering DIY is pretty straight forward - just want to siphon the old fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with fresh fluid. Nothing too complicated here - more of making sure that the vacuum unit is working and making sure the hoses are on tight. Note that the collection cup should be situationed straight up and down (cap on top) - otherwise, you'll draw fluid right to the pump and make a mess. There is also a max fill line on the cup - do not go past this, as again, fluid can be draw up to the pump and make quite a mess.

Here are the pics of the reservoir before we get started - first pic is on the Matrix (9th gen Corollas) and the other is on my 8th gen Corolla for comparison. Note the nasty fluid - on the Matrix is was over 4 years old, the Corolla was changed about 2 years ago.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...ring/before.jpg

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...ing/corolla.jpg

Gathering the bits and pieces to start pumping the old fluid out

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...ng/starting.jpg

Evacuating the powersteering reservoir - NOTE: how pulling a vacuum on the fluid, you don't have to constantly pump the vacuum - it will draw the fluid automatically. Pump the vacuum out as necessary.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis.../pumping_ps.jpg

After it is completely done - NOTE: Nasty fluid in the collection cup, OK to be mixed with used motor oil and recycled.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis.../evacuation.jpg

After fresh fluid is added back to the reservoir. Drive around normally, it will circulate the fluid, repeat as necessary - probably one more time atleast to dilute the existing stuff with fresh fluid.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...ering/after.jpg

Powersteering fluid exhange is done - I like to do this every 30K miles/24 months. Just a fluid exchange is all that is necessary - easy, quick - takes maybe 5 minutes to do.

Now for the brake bleeded DIY:

There is an order you want to do this in. Start at the furthest point away from the brake master cylinder and work your way inward. Start from the rear passenger's side corner first, then the rear driver's side corner, then the passenger's side front corner, to finally the driver's side front corner. Assuming this is with the original master cylinder in place (i.e., not a new master cylinder - if yes, you need to bleed the master cylinder according to the factory directions).

1. Crack the lugnuts loose with the tire on the ground first - then jack it in the air. If the lugs are badly corroded, hit them with some penetrating fluid first. On the rear axle on the 9th gen Corolla / FWD Matrix - I like to jack them up closest to the wheel:

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...ear_caliper.jpg

You can alternatively do both wheels, by jacking it up in the middle - depends on the jack and how comfortable you are with the whole clip in the air.

2. Verify that the master cylinder is full - top off as necessary. On mine, it was hard to see the level, so I "overfilled" the fluid past MAX mark. Not a big deal, as when I draw the fluid off - the level will drop down. A good idea is to clean this off well BEFORE you open it. As you fill the reservoir, make sure to replace the cap ASAP. You want to keep dirt out of here at all times.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...l_reservoir.jpg

3. Find the bleeder screw on the caliper/wheel cylinder. This may have a rubber dust cap on it. If there is significant amount of corrosion around the bleeder screw, hit it with some pentrating fluid and a couple of strokes with the wire brush. Be mindful of any wiring and rubber bits when you use the wire brush. Couple of pics showing the bleeder screw (NOTE: Don't mind the caliper bolt that is loose - I was working on the brakes at the time as well).

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...eeder_screw.jpg

Here the bleeder screw has a red arrow pointing to it.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...der_screw_2.jpg

Another view of the bleeder screw.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...ont_caliper.jpg

4. Attach the hose to the bleeder screw. Might find it much easier to smear some grease all over the bleeder screw. I didn't do it here, so that the pics are easier to see. Slide the end of the hose over the bleeder screw - making sure that it seals well (grease will help here). Also helps to give yourself enough slack with the hose to keep the collection cup straight up and down. Might be helpful to put a few turns into the hose before you slip it onto the bleeder screw. Remember, this hose will twist up on you as you loosen the screw. Alternatively, you can use the rubber bleeding accessory that probably came with the vacuum unit instead - that easily swivels as you loosen the screw (also why it tends to leak air there as well).

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...kes/closeup.jpg

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...es/closeup2.jpg

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...attach_hose.jpg

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...ttach_hose2.jpg

5. Start by pulling a vacuum on the bleeder screw before you crack open the bleeder - not too much vacuum or you'll collapse the tubing. On my Matrix, it was an 8mm wrench on the front screws, and a 10mm wrench on the rear ones. Not sure how yours will turn out - just something unexpected for some, so keep that in mind. Verify that the unit is holding a vacuum, if you don't have a gauge, you can just pump it several times and then listen for any hissing noises - should be none. Now crack open the bleeder screw. Doesn't take a whole lot to get the fluid to shoot through the hose, immediately continue pulling a vacuum as needed. If you smeared grease on the bleeder screw and its threads, you should be fine. If not - there is a chance that the strong vacuum will pull air by the threads of the bleeder screw. Not a deal breaker - you can push down slightly with your fingers to prevent air from being pulled past the threads. Don't worry about air being pulled by the threads, as long as you keep a vacuum on the hose, no air will enter the brake system. If the hose collapses, you put too much vacuum on it or twisted the hose somewhere. Close the bleeder (tighten screw) fix the issue, start a vacuum and reopen the bleeder. As the collection cup gets close to full - close the bleeder tightly with the wrench - no need to go He-Man on it, just snug. Drain cup, and repeat as necessary - remember to close the bleeder anytime you are not able to pull a vacuum to prevent air from siphoning back into the brake line.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...draw_vacuum.jpg

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis...raw_vacuum2.jpg

6. Fluid is drop on its own - make sure the fluid doesn't drop so far that it starts to suck in air at the master cylinder (nearly impossible do due, because of the small volume of the collection cup). I like to try and keep the fluid above the little filter in the reservoir. That is right by the MAX mark, so you are no where close to pulling in any air. Make sure that you don't drop any chunks in there by accident. Dirt in the fluid lines is probably much worse that having excessive moisture in the brake fluid. It will eat the seals in a heartbeat and you will have brake failure.

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/fis.../fluid_drop.jpg

That is about it. You might note some bubbles in the tubing as you vacuum the brake lines - that is normal. You will suck in air from something at some point, as long as you keep a vacuum on the system and watch for twisted, leaking hose - nearly impossible to introduce air into the brake system. Just like the powersteering fluid - I like to do this every 30K miles/24 months. The original fluid I used, Motul RBF600 turns a nasty dark color very quickly as it gets older and absorbs moisture (DOT 4.1 brake fluid, I believe). I've used other DOT 3 and 4 fluids and they will all dark slightly with age and use - just keep pulling fluid out until it appears to be clear in color. For me - it was about two full collection cups before I noticed the color change (did three cups in the the rears, two up front). On the car - I probably used about 16oz - 20oz of the 32oz bottle. You're going to get forearms like Popeye to boot as well.

Oh and I got a throttle body cleaning DIY as well - just have to load the pics onto Photobucket - maybe by this weekend, still swamped by work.

you are right. tie rod ends for an accord are more like $30. I am used to corolla prices. what year is it. I can find you links to cheap parts. If the boots are torn , the tie rods are probably history soon anyway. You could pack them with grease as a stop gap measure and take a couple nylon ties and close the ripped part. It might get you couple extra months out of them. It depends if they are real loose when you get the wheel off the ground. If they have noticeable play then change them NOW . You don't want one to break and have a wheel cock in or out like we have all seen. That is both dangerous and expensive.

you are right. tie rod ends for an accord are more like $30. I am used to corolla prices. what year is it. I can find you links to cheap parts. If the boots are torn , the tie rods are probably history soon anyway. You could pack them with grease as a stop gap measure and take a couple nylon ties and close the ripped part. It might get you couple extra months out of them. It depends if they are real loose when you get the wheel off the ground. If they have noticeable play then change them NOW . You don't want one to break and have a wheel cock in or out like we have all seen. That is both dangerous and expensive.

Ahh, the memories - I've been there, done that. Old 1967 Dodge Dart w/ 225c.i. Slant-6 - just tuned it up and was rolling down a fairly steep hill to pickup some more parts (runing to get a pickle fork and some new tierods) - well tierod decided to let go at that point. Not a fun trip, got a decent pucker factor on that one - ended up towing the car back to the house - but fortunantly, no further damage to the car or anyone else.

you are right. tie rod ends for an accord are more like $30. I am used to corolla prices. what year is it. I can find you links to cheap parts. If the boots are torn , the tie rods are probably history soon anyway. You could pack them with grease as a stop gap measure and take a couple nylon ties and close the ripped part. It might get you couple extra months out of them. It depends if they are real loose when you get the wheel off the ground. If they have noticeable play then change them NOW . You don't want one to break and have a wheel cock in or out like we have all seen. That is both dangerous and expensive.

Ahh, the memories - I've been there, done that. Old 1967 Dodge Dart w/ 225c.i. Slant-6 - just tuned it up and was rolling down a fairly steep hill to pickup some more parts (runing to get a pickle fork and some new tierods) - well tierod decided to let go at that point. Not a fun trip, got a decent pucker factor on that one - ended up towing the car back to the house - but fortunantly, no further damage to the car or anyone else.

 

1980 monte carlo.My mechanic buddys first wife driving. 45 mph into a curb. no damage. He bought that car for $100 , drove it 40000 miles and sold it for $200. that was the only repair he made.when he sold it the car had a rod knock and the loser that bought it put his hand on the hood and said ," STRONG MOTO , she gots a STRONG MOTO" . we still laugh about it. He called 2 hours later and wanted his money back. My buddy says what did you expect for $200. then hung up.

Bad_dude

you are right. tie rod ends for an accord are more like $30. I am used to corolla prices. what year is it. I can find you links to cheap parts. If the boots are torn , the tie rods are probably history soon anyway. You could pack them with grease as a stop gap measure and take a couple nylon ties and close the ripped part. It might get you couple extra months out of them. It depends if they are real loose when you get the wheel off the ground. If they have noticeable play then change them NOW . You don't want one to break and have a wheel cock in or out like we have all seen. That is both dangerous and expensive.

I got a 1990 Honda Accord LX 4AT. The boot is ripped but little grease is in there. How do I check for play? Do I just take the tire off and shake the end of it for free moving? Should I just repair it temporarily and replace it when I can? Is there any other symptoms I should be on the look out for before the tie rod fails? Maybe clunking noise on turns? Is it on any type of turns or sharp fast turns only.

Thanks.

Bad_dude

Thanks so much fishexpo101 for this.

I have a few questions:

1) For the power steering: Did you cyphon just the fluid in the reservoir or deep down below too? What are the chance of new fluid causing steering pump failure like brake flush on Master cylinder?

2) For the brake flush: You did not mention how much pressure to maintain in the vacuum pump? Do you pump it all the time to maintain the pressure?

3) I am more worry about my tie rod than the fluid changes. How do I best check for signs of failure on the joint? To check for free play, do I just grab the tie rod end and shake to see if it's moving freely? Any other way to check or look out for symptoms? How long usually after the boot breaks before the joint starts to fail? How often does it fail?

I did not notice the boot break on the inner rod? How do I check on the inner rod without removing the boot? I don't want to replace the outer rods then the inner fails after the alignment.

What is the best tool to use for the rod measurement before removing the arm to avoid paying again for the alignment?

Thanks.

1) For the power steering: Did you cyphon just the fluid in the reservoir or deep down below too? What are the chance of new fluid causing steering pump failure like brake flush on Master cylinder?

Yup, I just siphoned out the fluid in the reservoir - you can disconnect the outlet hose and get more oil out that way - but just a fluid exchange with the contents of the reservoir a couple of times is plenty sufficient. The chance that new fluid will cause problems is close to zero, barring putting in the wrong fluid type (the correct type is listed on the cap). With any repair work, there are risks associated with it - you have to make the decision wether you rather wait for a part to fail due to neglect or part to fail due to maintenance issues. Unless the part is already on its way out - routine maintenance will NOT hurt the part. Use common sense and don't do too many things at once. I like the siphoning method because it introduces the least amount hazards to the system - just use common sense here - don't stick in the hose that was previously used to pull brake fluid out or some other fluid or covered with dirt (ie. don't introduce foreign material). That's why I use cheap silicone air bubbler lines - use and mark hoses for an application, so they don't mixed up and they are mostly chemically non-reactive.

2) For the brake flush: You did not mention how much pressure to maintain in the vacuum pump? Do you pump it all the time to maintain the pressure?

Pressure will depend on your application, length of hose, type of hose. If you draw a vacuum and the hose collapses or you are only sucking in a great quantity of air - you have too much vacuum. If the fluid is not making its way to the collection cup, then you don't have enough vacuum. On the one I had - I tried to keep the vacuum about 1/3 to 1/2 of the total sweep. Just try and maintain the pressure there is you can - if you cannot, make sure to tighten off the bleeder screw ASAP to prevent air/old fluid to work its way back into the brake system. Find out what is wrong and try again.

3) I am more worry about my tierod than the fluid changes. How do I best check for signs of failure on the joint? To check for free play, do I just grab the tie rod end and shake to see if it's moving freely? Any other way to check or look out for symptoms? How long usually after the boot breaks before the joint starts to fail? How often does it fail? I did not notice the boot break on the inner rod? How do I check on the inner rod without removing the boot? I don't want to replace the outer rods then the inner fails after the alignment. What is the best tool to use for the rod measurement before removing the arm to avoid paying again for the alignment?

Best way to check the tierod end is to wiggle the tire and observe any movement in the tierod end. Grab the tire at the 12 O'clock and 6 O'clock postions and try and pry the tire back and forth (pry top and bottom), then move to 11 O'clock and 5 O'clock and repeat, move to 9 O'clock and 3 O'clock and repeat again. Note any movement in the tire (should not be any) - if there is movement, then verify that it is from the tierod (you will see the rod wiggle around if it is worn out). This is also the same check for bad wheel bearings - if there is slop in there and it doesn't appear to be from the tierod, then it is most likely at the wheel bearing.

Pulling on the tierod end might work, but you won't get enough mechanical leverage there - prying on a tire is easier, but harder to see the tierod (directly). You can remove the tire and wiggle the hub as an alternative. Or wiggle the tire with a second person looking at the tierod (best way). A road test might show worn tierods - if you notice that steering is not as "sharp" as it used to be, car seems to wander on the road - no sense of straight ahead - that might be a sign of a worn tierod. Not as definitive as looking at the tierod while you wiggle the tire.

Unfortunantly there is no definitive time after a boot deteriorates and when the joint will fail. If could fail within a week or it could take years - one thing is for sure, if the joint lets go, it will not be pretty.

Don't have to worry about the "inner" tierod - that is part of the steering rack (rack and pinion) - just to check those, you'll end up cutting the boot off. If there is a problem there - you'll know it, as there will be a significant problem there (leaks, loss of steering, etc.) I'd just worry about the outer tierods for now.

The chances for the inner tierods to let go around the same time as the outer tierod is pretty remote - if the car hasn't been abused (ie, driven like a 4x4 in a field or woods) - then I wouldn't lose any sleep over the inner tierods. Best tool for measuring the tierods lengths to try and preserve the alignment - tape measure. If the boots are in good shape - then let them be, no need to mess with them. But once that boot tears, it is only a matter of time before the joint will let go. Grease will drip off or get contaminanted with dirt, mixed with water - will eat that metal ball end and the bearing race in no time.

Note the position of the lock nut on the tierod, note how much of the threads are showing. Make sure you make several measurements - take pictures with the tape measure next to the tierod for scale. Just like that saying in woodworking - measure twice, cut once.

Bad_dude

Thanks fishexpo101 for a detailed explaination.

I got everything down now, but the tie rod. I am thinking about just changing the boot on it b/c it's the cheapest way out. But changing the whole outer rod will help me sleep better. Right now, there's nothing wrong with the steering and there seems to be no problem. The steering is responsive and seems fine. I'll check more closely for the free play tomorrow. But a brief check the tires do not seem to move much if at all. If I change the rods out and with alignment, it will cost me around $100 if I replaced the rods myself.

ok. After worrying about it a bit. I jacked my driver's side up and the boot was indeed broke from the lining around it. I can still see the little grease inside it but it's just the remnants of the old grease. I sprayed some lithium grease from the can into the surround lining crack and used electrical tape to seal it for the time being until I can get it repair.

I called my regular local mechanic who does some work on my Corolla 1999 and he seems honest as he would only fix things if needed. He said the boot broke is not a problem. I should only worry if the inner rod is broken, leaking, clunking, or trouble turning should I be worry. Though he seems honest but should I trust him on this opinion?

I also called the place who did my alignment a year ago and I was told to bring the car in as they don't even know what I am talking about.

What do you guys think? If I keep the joint lube with the lithium grease spray, I should be safe until I can get some cash to fix it? Right now the joint move freely without friction. No signs of inner rod failing.

I am tempted to just change the boots out and this should give me lesser worries?

One more question, the boot changing seems that I just take the cotter pin off, remove the nut and threaded big screw off the steering column, then put on the new boot. My question here is do I grease the boot FIRST, before I put the boot on OR do I put the boot on then grease it? If I put the boot on then grease it, then how do I do that with the boot tight on both sides?

I called Autozone and they have the Duralast brand with lifetime warranty, $24.97 for the left and $30.97 for the right. I got links below. I wonder if those boots come pre lubed or do I need to lube them?

Is there any spray that I can use to maintain these joint boots to keep them lasting longer?

Thanks again for everything.

Up to you if you want to wait on the repair or not. Can you still drive with a broken boot on the tierod? Sure, but not recommended. Once opened up like that, just a matter of time before that joint will fail. If the joint has a zerk fitting on it (grease nipple) - then keep pumping grease into it until all the crud is out of the joint. Not sure when Honda stopped including zerk fittings, but like most newer parts, designed to be sealed for its lifespan.

To trust the mechanic - that's your call. If this is the same guy that said never to change the brake fluid - I personally wouldn't trust him - but that is my opinion. I got several guys at the old speed shop that I wouldn't trust with my lawnmower, let alone my car - but are pretty standup, honest guys otherwise. Just going on their personal experiences and how they were trained.

The tierod end (the ball portion) shouldn't move "freely" - i.e., it should resist you a little bit, not be easily moved around. That sounds to me, like the joint is already a goner. You are correct that the boot is the easiest way to solve the issue - since you don't actually touch the "turn-buckle" portion between the hub and the rack - alignment should not be affected.

As for the alignment place - not sure what you are after there, other than a quote. I doubt that they would have any records on the car, as in how much the car was off in alignment - that's usually a dealer thing (more extensive database and people to enter that information). But they would have picked up on the broken boot pretty quickly, or "should" have picked up on it. First things they have to do before they do any alignment job - otherwise the alignment would be useless. This would potential mean that the torn boot is not more than a year old - depending on how the car was driven that time - the tierod "might" be salvageable (low probability though, I won't hold my breath).

If you are dead set on only replacing the boot - pull the cotter pin, remove the castle nut (might be easier said than done), separate the tierod from the spindle. Sometimes the tierod doesn't want to let go of the spindle - then you use heat or a pickle fork to pull it off - in that case, it will destroy the tierod end - so keep that in mind. If it comes off smoothly - then pump as much fresh grease onto the tierod as you can, fill the boot up with greast - slide the boot onto the end and clean up any grease that gets squeezed out. If the joint has a zerk fitting - then pump the joint clean without the boot, install the boot (apply a liberal amount of grease), burp the boot (squeeze it to expel air), then pump it up with some more grease through the zerk fitting. I don't see the links - but for that price, I'm pretty sure you can get the tierod ends complete.

No regular maintenance is needed for these boots - sprays tend to either eat the boot faster or cause dirt to be attracted to the boot itself more readily - neither one is what you want. Majority of the boots out there are already pre-treated to protect it from UV and heat cycling. But no matter what you do - time, heat, and ozone that is naturally present will eat the boot. That release coating that usually covers the boot is more than enough protection - silicone spray will protect rubber, but the solvent used to carry the silicone to the target surface will readily soften and eat into the rubber boot. Rubber dressing products have shown less than stellar performance - most will clean or shine, increasing the lifespan of the boot are not part of their function.

Thanks fishexpo101 for a detailed explaination.

I got everything down now, but the tie rod. I am thinking about just changing the boot on it b/c it's the cheapest way out. But changing the whole outer rod will help me sleep better. Right now, there's nothing wrong with the steering and there seems to be no problem. The steering is responsive and seems fine. I'll check more closely for the free play tomorrow. But a brief check the tires do not seem to move much if at all. If I change the rods out and with alignment, it will cost me around $100 if I replaced the rods myself.

ok. After worrying about it a bit. I jacked my driver's side up and the boot was indeed broke from the lining around it. I can still see the little grease inside it but it's just the remnants of the old grease. I sprayed some lithium grease from the can into the surround lining crack and used electrical tape to seal it for the time being until I can get it repair.

I called my regular local mechanic who does some work on my Corolla 1999 and he seems honest as he would only fix things if needed. He said the boot broke is not a problem. I should only worry if the inner rod is broken, leaking, clunking, or trouble turning should I be worry. Though he seems honest but should I trust him on this opinion?

I also called the place who did my alignment a year ago and I was told to bring the car in as they don't even know what I am talking about.

What do you guys think? If I keep the joint lube with the lithium grease spray, I should be safe until I can get some cash to fix it? Right now the joint move freely without friction. No signs of inner rod failing.

I am tempted to just change the boots out and this should give me lesser worries?

One more question, the boot changing seems that I just take the cotter pin off, remove the nut and threaded big screw off the steering column, then put on the new boot. My question here is do I grease the boot FIRST, before I put the boot on OR do I put the boot on then grease it? If I put the boot on then grease it, then how do I do that with the boot tight on both sides?

I called Autozone and they have the Duralast brand with lifetime warranty, $24.97 for the left and $30.97 for the right. I got links below. I wonder if those boots come pre lubed or do I need to lube them?

Is there any spray that I can use to maintain these joint boots to keep them lasting longer?

Thanks again for everything.

not really. they usually last 5-10 years. a little armor all doesn't hurt if you are paranoid.

 

here is a link to both rods for $30 shipped for both

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-...%3A1|240%3A1318

or for $27

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-...%3A1|240%3A1318

for a cheap fix what I would have done is spray degreaser like awesome ( $1 at dollar stores) on the old grease , powerwash the joint or wash and brush out the old grease without ripping the boot ,let it dry, and re-grease. then seal it back up.

Bad_dude

"for a cheap fix what I would have done is spray degreaser like awesome ( $1 at dollar stores) on the old grease , powerwash the joint or wash and brush out the old grease without ripping the boot ,let it dry, and re-grease. then seal it back up."

Would you say an old toothbrush do? Also what would you use to seal it back up?

Thanks for the 2 great links but I don't use paypal any more and these guys only take paypal.

Thanks.

If you have a zerk fitting, then that should be OK. Just a rag to wipe up old and excess grease will be fine, pressure washing is not necessary, toothbrush probably not necessary - you want to clean the joint from dirt, not get every little bit of grease off of it. Just keep pumping grease into it to clean the joint from the inside out.

Using the degreaser and powerwasher on the outside, i.e. the boot, will be fine. For a super quick fix, I've read that some people have used gasket maker goop (silicone) and form a temporary "boot". Won't look pretty and probably won't last more than a few weeks to many a few months - but they didn't have to disassemble anything. Literally a bandaid fix - but will probably be OK temporarily until you get time to replace it the right way.

If there is no zerk fitting - I wouldn't even try and degrease the joint - since then there is no good way to get grease back in there. Otherwise, you'd end up wiping whatever grease was left that was protecting the joint. Without that cushion of grease, you'd have metal on metal contact - even if the new boot completely surrounds it with fresh grease - that tierod end will be gone for sure.

Bad_dude

If you have a zerk fitting, then that should be OK. Just a rag to wipe up old and excess grease will be fine, pressure washing is not necessary, toothbrush probably not necessary - you want to clean the joint from dirt, not get every little bit of grease off of it. Just keep pumping grease into it to clean the joint from the inside out.

Using the degreaser and powerwasher on the outside, i.e. the boot, will be fine. For a super quick fix, I've read that some people have used gasket maker goop (silicone) and form a temporary "boot". Won't look pretty and probably won't last more than a few weeks to many a few months - but they didn't have to disassemble anything. Literally a bandaid fix - but will probably be OK temporarily until you get time to replace it the right way.

If there is no zerk fitting - I wouldn't even try and degrease the joint - since then there is no good way to get grease back in there. Otherwise, you'd end up wiping whatever grease was left that was protecting the joint. Without that cushion of grease, you'd have metal on metal contact - even if the new boot completely surrounds it with fresh grease - that tierod end will be gone for sure.

I don't think there is zerk fitting on the boot. If it does have a zerk fitting, how do I pump grease into it? Will any grease gun do or do I need to buy some extra fittings to pump the grease in? I'll try to change it out next week. I just need to buy some time for now. I just call Autozone and their tie rod ends have lifetime warranty and they come prelubed and I just need to install them. Anyone got any experience with them?

Thanks for all of your help guys.



Topic List: Go to Pre-1997 Toyota Corolla and Geo Prizm