2009 Corolla 1.8l Oil Filter - Page 2 - Toyota Corolla (2009 until 2018-19 “TNGA”)

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I followed your instructions and found they worked well overall on my 2009 Corolla, with the 1.8 litre engine.

I'm glad.

I tried to locate a 65 mm 14 flute oil filter cup or cap tool. I managed to find a 65 - 67 mm 14 flute tool at a local Napa Auto Parts. This is the only tool I could locate locally. It cost about $8.00. It worked good.
I agree a 65 mm without the 67 mm portion of the tool would be a bit better. I did locate on on line and ordered it.

I, myself, am also stuck with a 65/67, which gives me troubles but seems to still work. The main problem with 65/67 is that the cap gets twisted and stuck in the wrench and then it's difficult to remove it from the wrench. Another problem is that during tightening it tends to slip; although, I seem to be able to apply the proper torque. I will also try to find a 65 mm that should be troublefree in comparison with the 65/67.

I could only locate a filter cartdridge at the Toyota dealer, no one has them in stock yet being a new car. I went to the Fram web site and tried to locate several they cite made by them and other companies. I did get one at the Toyota dealer ($7.00) they are the only ones that I could find one at.

I would never use a non-TOYOTA oil filter or cartridge. From what I heard and read, TOYOTA oil filters outperform even the expensive, premium aftermarket oil filters. They feature double-layer filter elements with coarse and fine media, which allows to trap more particles. There might also be dimensional or sealing problems with the aftermarket cartridges. My local dealer charged me $6.50. The list price at $10.37 is considerably more; so, make sure not to pay the list price and get ripped off. Some dealers like to sell parts at the list price, which they shouldn't.

I used the 5W-20 vice the 0W-20. Reason being is the environment where I live. After reading up on the oils on line and in the car owners manual decided 5W-20 would be best for the ambient temperature range I live in. The oil cap on the engine shows 0W-20 or 5W-20 oil should be used.

The only difference between 0W- and 5W- is the cold-engine performance. 0W-20 and 5W-20 are practically indistinguishable when the engine warms up. And for the cold engine, thinner the oil the better it is, regardless of the climate. That's because cold oil is already thick to begin with. Hence 0W- is better for any engine than thicker cold viscosities, such as 5W-, 10W-, 15W-, or 20W-. The hot viscosity (-20, -30, -40, -50) should be chosen according to mainly the manufacturer recommendations and then the ambient temperature and driving habits. I believe the reason why TOYOTA specified 5W-20 as well is because 0W-20 is hard to find and it only exists in synthetic form, which is expensive (about $7 per quart for synthetic vs. $4 per quart for conventional.) Another thing to keep in mind is not to idle or, even worse, race, a cold engine, which tends to harm the seals and rings. A few seconds after you start a cold engine, keep driving without idling to warm up the engine, but drive smoothly and be gentle on the accelerator. This should condition your seals and rings for the cold engine as well and eliminate cold-engine problems in the long run. Idling a cold engine in order to warm it up will only harm it.

How long have we changed our oil this way? Did they really have to change it?
If it is environmental recycle your oil filter people, it's steel with paper.

It's actually hardly any different than changing a conventional oil filter. The only difference between changing a cartridge and a conventional oil filter is as if you are changing a conventional oil filter but somehow you are able to reuse your old filter by putting a new paper filter element and a new rubber O-ring in it.

In this new green age, car manufacturers, especially TOYOTA, have the new goal of turning their cars into "zero waste." In this case, by making the metal parts of the oil filter reusable, they are helping their way toward that goal a bit.

FWIW, I found this wrench at my local FLAPS...it was only $9.00.

I'm going to be changing the oil for the first time on my B-I-L's new car this weekend and I'll let you know how well it works.

BTW, thanks very much for the info in this thread. I was a little concerned because I couldn't find the darn filter housing on the motor...I didn't realise it was UNDER the car default_laugh . Most cartridge filters I've seen are accessed from the top...

Guest ilyedtou

Just changed my oil, I bought a 65/67mm wrench cap, had to cut the 67mm section off as it was too deep to allow the 65mm access to the cover. I then had issues with the cover being put on too tight (Toyota service, free oil change)and I actually got the wrench cap stuck, because 65mm seems a bit to big, and you cannot believe the torque I had to apply!!! I have since done some research and found out that the Toyota tool is 64 mm, enough to make a difference ????????

I will be spending sometime between now and the next oil change trying to get the Toyota SST(Special Service Tool as they call it) on Ebay....

The TOYOTA oil-filter wrench SST (special service tool) part no. 09228-06501, priced $16.50 MSRP, is currently not available at any TOYOTA dealer in USA, which is kinda stupid, because it's such a crucial tool for new Corollas and probably many other new models as well.

TOYOTA dealers are infamous for messing up simple oil changes, even to the point of serious engine damage. That's why I change the oil myself. So far I've done it twice with my 2009, with little problem. The only problem seems to be the cap getting stuck in my 65/67 wrench but I'm able to remove it after some gentle tapping on the wrench. You certainly need minimal tightening (18 ft.lb specified by TOYOTA) as with any oil filter. In fact, I always used to tighten the conventional oil filter on my old Corolla by hand only.

You can probably find some good 65 mm wrench out there. I've seen some aftermarket 65 mm wrenches at my local dealer, which probably work OK. I've also seen some people suggesting rubber-strap wrenches but I'm worried that they could easily damage the cap. They also require much more elbow room and you would have to lift the car.

Here are the official pictures of the oil change from TOYOTA, including the SST and component location:

https://s388.photobucket.com/albums/oo325/e...mview=slideshow

I've measured a TOYOTA oil filter and in fact the top of the filter is 64.00 mm exactly. Although, it is tapered and gets wider.

There seems to be some nice 64 mm wrench out there made specifically for TOYOTAs, but I haven't tried it; so, I don't know how well it works:

Retailer link:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/asttoy640.html

Manufacturer link:

http://www.asttool.com/detail_page.php?fro...ota%20/%20Lexus

Good stuff - thanks for the links.

I have bought the AST (Assenmacher Specialty Tools) TOY 640 64 mm TOYOTA oil-filter wrench. It cost $12.78 plus $10.45 shipping, $23.23 total. It's sturdy aluminum and seems very precisely made. It attaches to a 24 mm or 15/16" socket, which is a downside because such large sockets aren't included in standard socket sets and usually use 1/2" handles, which are unnecessarily long for applying 18 ft.lb of torque and leave you little elbow room. It packaged and shipped really fast, from Ohio to California in a small envelope in a couple of days with UPS ground. The wrench has 2009 and Made in USA stamped on it.

See this slideshow for the pictures of this tool.

I will try it with the next oil change in the summer.

I am not sure if this wrench is any better than 65 mm or 65/67 mm hardened-plastic wrenches (preferably with a metal 3/8" square hole for the socket handle) sold in auto stores and Wal-Mart etc. The only problem I'm having with my such 65/67 Vector® wrench is the filter cap getting stuck in the wrench but I'm able to remove it after some light tapping on the wrench. Note that the TOYOTA filter cap is plastic and aluminum and steel wrenches may chafe it. A cheap plastic wrench might do the job for you instead of an expensive wrench like this. So, you might want to buy such a cheap plastic wrench and try to see if it works (before you drain your oil). If it doesn't work, return it to the store and get your money back and find one that works in another store. Local TOYOTA dealers also sell aftermarket wrenches.

I ran into a plastic wrench available at Kragen/Checkers/Schucks/Murray's/O'Reilly/PartsAmerica for $4.99:

Flotool 65/67 mm Oil Filter Wrench: Super Graphite; Cap Type; 3/8" Drive; #5

It fits these applications.

I had used this Flotool 65/67 mm wrench in the past with the regular Corolla filter (disposable can type). At one point the 3/8" socket handle stripped the unreinforced square hole in the plastic wrench. I also don't know how well this wrench works with the 2009+ cartridge-type filter caps. The Vector 65/67 mm wrench I mentioned above (bought at Wal-Mart in the past) is better quality and it fits tighter and is a tiny-bit shallower, also has a metal reinforced hole. I'm posting this for your information only; so, buy it with caution if you do.

Here is a slideshow of a gallery of three TOYOTA oil filter wrenches, Flotool No. 5 65/67 mm, Vector Type B 65/67 mm, and AST TOY 640 64 mm.

Flotool (O'Reilly and subsidiaries) got the plastic square hole stripped by the socket handle in the past while I was using it with conventional filters. Perhaps it happened when I was trying to remove a filter overtorqued by an oil-change technician. I've not tested it with the cartridge-type filter. It seems to be the loosest fit on a TOYOTA filter among the three wrenches.

Vector (bought years ago at Wal-Mart) works OK, except for the problem that the cap gets stuck in the wrench; although it's freed after some light tapping on the wrench. It's a solid-built, high-quality plastic wrench with a metal 3/8" square hole. It's a tiny-bit (perhaps 1/32" or so) shallower than the Flotool.

I've not tested the AST. It doesn't have a square hole but only a 24 mm (15/16") nut. It fits about the same as the Vector on a TOYOTA oil filter, except being much shallower.

Great reviews - thanks for taking the time to post that info.

I've also got a stamped metal "cup" variant for my conventional spin on filters, after I stripped the 3/8" drive hole on a plastic "cup" variant that looks very similar to the Flotool you posted above. Metal is definitely the way to go. Probably not an issue with the cartridge types, but on spin on apps, there are times where the filter is really on there tight. The AST does look like a very sturdy piece, just afraid that "pot-metal" as some of older guys refer to, is fairly brittle. But given that you can either use the 3/8" drive hole or put a wrench on it is very promising.

Great reviews - thanks for taking the time to post that info.
I've also got a stamped metal "cup" variant for my conventional spin on filters, after I stripped the 3/8" drive hole on a plastic "cup" variant that looks very similar to the Flotool you posted above. Metal is definitely the way to go. Probably not an issue with the cartridge types, but on spin on apps, there are times where the filter is really on there tight. The AST does look like a very sturdy piece, just afraid that "pot-metal" as some of older guys refer to, is fairly brittle. But given that you can either use the 3/8" drive hole or put a wrench on it is very promising.

Sure. One correction about AST though: the hole in it is round; so, you can't use a 3/8" or different size socket handle without a 24 mm (15/16") socket. They probably made it round because it's aluminum. It's probably very sturdy otherwise. With the conventional, spin-on filters, I always used hand-only (no wrenches or other tools) tightening of a 3/4 turn after gasket makes contact when installing them -- never had a leak and removing them was a piece of cake as a result. (Note: This only applies to conventional, spin-on filters. Tighten the oil-filter cap assembly for the cartridge-type filters to the specified torque of 18 ft.lb with your oil-filter wrench.)

If you go with a metal cup, make sure it fits. I bought a metal cup that claimed to be 65 mm at Pep Boys. When I tried it on the 2009 Corolla oil-filter cap assembly, it was so loose that it wouldn't even catch on the cap. I then promptly returned it to the store. Some metal cup wrenches are very poorly stamped and won't grab the filter or the filter cap. My local dealer is selling some metal cup wrenches, which seem to be of good quality. Another note: the oil-filter cap assembly in 2009 Corolla is made of hard plastic -- kind of plastic used for the oil-filler cap.

i guess...we all have to say goodbye to over sized spin on filters...seems like now only one size of filter element can be used for oil filtering purposes....

FWIW, I found this wrench at my local FLAPS...it was only $9.00.
I'm going to be changing the oil for the first time on my B-I-L's new car this weekend and I'll let you know how well it works.

Hi, guys...I did post an update a couple of weeks ago, but it must have gotten lost in the server switch.

Anywho, the filter wrench referenced above worked like a charm. Although I prefer spin-on canister filters, changing the oil on this car isn't hard at all, and it was nice to not have dirty oil all over my arms and the underside of the car.

FWIW, I used Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend and a Toyota filter. If you don't have a dealer near you, NAPA also sells the filters.

Guest Bill987

Just bought 2009 Corolla LE with 1.8 liter 4. Found out that I have a cartridge filter (Like A 5.7 Tundra). If any body has a good free link to a "how to change" site your please post it. It's not even discussed in the Owner's "manual". Car rides and drives fine, not sporty but comfortable. Enough gadgetry to satisfy us old folks.

GO HERE FOR A COMPLETE PICTORIAL OF HOW TO REPLACE OIL AND FILTER FOR 2009 COROLLA. IT IS VERY EASY. DON'T BE AFRAID TO DO IT YOURSELF.

GO HERE http://picasaweb.google.com/melchoracebu/2...ndChange?pli=1#

Guest ebuzek

Just bought 2009 Corolla LE with 1.8 liter 4. Found out that I have a cartridge filter (Like A 5.7 Tundra). If any body has a good free link to a "how to change" site your please post it. It's not even discussed in the Owner's "manual". Car rides and drives fine, not sporty but comfortable. Enough gadgetry to satisfy us old folks.

09 corolla is a cartridge filter. You will have to jack the car up. Not like my 05 corolla. The filter is a Napa Gold 7046 it comes with a new oring, a little less than $5.00. It is horizontally mounted on the passenger side next to the drive axle between the engine block and the lower control arm. It is a black plastic cap about 2" in diameter screwed into an aluminum housing. Good luck unscrewing it. Mine was very hard to unscrew but I managed to get it off without damaging it. Their is a metal tab (like on a asprin bottle) make shure it is out of the way so the cap will unscrew. 4.5 quarts of 5w-20 puts it in the middle of the hi and low levels. I can't understand why people write a reply who don't know how to solve the problem. If you don't know then don't say anything. This will help tremendously when you are searching for a solution.

Gotta love all this "modern " trash on new vehicles.

friendly_jacek

I can't understand why people write a reply who don't know how to solve the problem. If you don't know then don't say anything. This will help tremendously when you are searching for a solution.

What is the problem?