2009 Corolla 1.8l Oil Filter

Can't think of anything offhand. Toyota.com used to have an answer area, but since they updated the site, I can't find it. You might just Google "how to change your oil." Or visit www.toyotanation.com

Not for a Corolla - but one here for a Tundra.

http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tundra-ge...oil-change.html

Should be quite similar to the Tundra. Newer domestics and imports are taking the same direction with cartridge setup vs spin on filter. More filtering area, longer oil drain intervals. Hopefully they don't do what BMW is doing - no way to manually check for oil levels. All computer monitored. If you want to verify the fill level, have to drain all the oil out, and measure it as you pour it back in?!

Some have gone with vacuum oil changers as well - instead of draining the oil - you suck the oil up through the dipstick with a special pump (a la Mercedes - some models do not even have a drain plug, most have the drain plug above the sump = useless).

Sounds like a mixed blessing.

Still remember the messy changes on my 327 Vette before converting it to a spin-on filter.

GM has done that crap. I can see how it would be useful on a truck with a skip plate, and not to have a filter sticking out, but why for a car?!?!?!

Great, one more thing Toyota is doing that I don't like.

WITW is a cartridge filter? I'm guessing there is an oil filter-like cylindrical housing which one must remove to remove/replace a filter cartridge? How is this done? How is the oil drained from the cartridge housing? 'splain, Lucy!

My wife's Mazda3 has a filter inside a container.

I have to remove it (requires a special tool) to change the filter.

The manual says to bring it to a dealer and have them change it - ridiculous!

My wife's Mazda3 has a filter inside a container.I have to remove it (requires a special tool) to change the filter.

 

The manual says to bring it to a dealer and have them change it - ridiculous!

And like I told you in that PM I sent you a couple of months ago, they tell you that as a CYA measure on Mazda's part.

My father took his Mazda3 with a cartridge filter to a quick lube because the Mazda dealer was 47 miles from his home.

The quick lube broke the container by using an improper tool, causing it to shatter at highway speed on his evening commute home.

The engine was immediately toasted due to lack of lubrication, requiring a replacement engine that cost a literal fortune.

Mazda does not want to pay for replacement engines because of screw ups by quick lubes. I don't blame them.

Do I think they are right to design a filter that requires a special tool to remove? No, but I do think that they are wise to advise that a person with the right tools and not some quick lube place with a pair of channel locks does the job.

I have heard lots of horror stories about them messing up a car, because they don't do a job right.

Sure Mazda looks after it's liability, but some credit should be given to some backyard mechanics.

Some of them actually have more ability than the supposedly certified mechanics that work on cars at some shops.

Owner's manuals should have good instructions for doing a proper tune-up and certainly oil and filter changes must be included.

If people cannot work on their own cars, then there would be many that currently have a car, not being able to afford one.

Could the average person buy a new car and continue to have it serviced at the dealership where he purchased it and not be in debt ? - definitely not.

Part of todays economic problems of society are due to debt - but that is a different story.

My wife's Mazda3 has a filter inside a container.I have to remove it (requires a special tool) to change the filter.

 

The manual says to bring it to a dealer and have them change it - ridiculous!

And like I told you in that PM I sent you a couple of months ago, they tell you that as a CYA measure on Mazda's part.

My father took his Mazda3 with a cartridge filter to a quick lube because the Mazda dealer was 47 miles from his home.

The quick lube broke the container by using an improper tool, causing it to shatter at highway speed on his evening commute home.

The engine was immediately toasted due to lack of lubrication, requiring a replacement engine that cost a literal fortune.

Mazda does not want to pay for replacement engines because of screw ups by quick lubes. I don't blame them.

Do I think they are right to design a filter that requires a special tool to remove? No, but I do think that they are wise to advise that a person with the right tools and not some quick lube place with a pair of channel locks does the job.

I don't trust any of those quick lube places.

 

I have heard lots of horror stories about them messing up a car, because they don't do a job right.

Sure Mazda looks after it's liability, but some credit should be given to some backyard mechanics.

Some of them actually have more ability than the supposedly certified mechanics that work on cars at some shops.

Owner's manuals should have good instructions for doing a proper tune-up and certainly oil and filter changes must be included.

If people cannot work on their own cars, then there would be many that currently have a car, not being able to afford one.

Could the average person buy a new car and continue to have it serviced at the dealership where he purchased it and not be in debt ? - definitely not.

Part of todays economic problems of society are due to debt - but that is a different story.

A good reason to not buy the car and to tell Mazda why.

Saturn did this with the L series. A plastic cover on the housing was easy to break. Later was redesigned with metal.

Bikeman you hit the point. I have changed my own oil since I bought my '53 Studebaker in 1967. Never seen one I can't do as well or better than the grease monkeys at the dealers. The so called owners manuals they include with today's cars assume that all owners are mechanically incompetent. I'll get a real service manual as soon as one is available but the Toyota tech site is to expensive. I'm cheap - thats why I bought a car that is supposed to be cheap to own and operate.

Here's some pics of an Avalon cartridge filter change. It's very informative and probably very similar to your car's configuration.

http://members.cox.net/n0v8or/avalon_oil_change.pdf

Good luck,

Jay in MA

Hi Fish.....he did a nice job. Those are the kind of instructions I need

Nice link Jay - that is a great DIY guide.

Good link and great pictures as well as instructions.

Many cartridge filters are similar and can be done the same way.

Makes it easy for the person doing it for the first time.

Here's some pics of an Avalon cartridge filter change. It's very informative and probably very similar to your car's configuration.

http://members.cox.net/n0v8or/avalon_oil_change.pdf

Good luck,

Jay in MA

Well, this pretty much answers my question of what a cartridge oil filter is. I'm curious as to why they went to this thing, as opposed to the usual replaceable spin-on oil filter? The only reason I can see is that probably it creates less of an environmental problem by eliminating the steel oil filter cannisters and their contents which are discarded of after an oil change. Now, the only things discarded are the old filter elements and the old "O" rings. Much less waste. But, a more complicated oil change procedure, which is the part which makes me say "hmmmm." I guess after you've done it a few times you'd get the hang of it. I'm just glad my Corolla has a long way to go before it needs to be replaced by one which has this system.

BTW present mileage on my '03 Corolla LE automatic: 54,500. And overdue for an oil change, which I will try to accomplish this weekend.

My guess as well.

...........The only reason I can see is that probably it creates less of an environmental problem by eliminating the steel oil filter cannisters and their contents which are discarded of after an oil change.

Great! this looks just like the Corolla. I don't understand the idea but I think I can do the change OK. It's like the Tundra without the skid plate. Maybe after several changes it will seem simple enough. Question answered. 4000 miles till the first change.

Nice link Jay - that is a great DIY guide.

Is this correct for the corolla????

Here are the official instructions from the 2009 repair manual:

Title: 2ZR-FE LUBRICATION: OIL AND OIL FILTER: REPLACEMENT (2009 Corolla)

REPLACEMENT

CAUTION:

? Prolonged and repeated contact with engine oil will cause removal of natural oils from the skin, leading to

? Precautions should be taken when replacing engine oil to minimize the risk of your skin making contact

? For environmental protection, used oil and used oil filters must be disposed of at designated disposal sites.

? After tightening the oil filter cap assembly, check for gaps between the installation surfaces.

? Do not remove the oil filter bracket clip when installing the oil filter cap assembly.

? Do not cross thread the oil filter cap assembly.

Here are the official instructions from the 2009 repair manual:

Last Modified: 4-24-2008

Model Year: 2009 Model: Corolla

Title: 2ZR-FE LUBRICATION: OIL AND OIL FILTER: REPLACEMENT (2009 Corolla)

 

REPLACEMENT

CAUTION:

 

? Prolonged and repeated contact with engine oil will cause removal of natural oils from the skin, leading to

 

dryness, irritation and dermatitis. In addition, used engine oil contains potentially harmful contaminants

which may cause skin cancer.

? Precautions should be taken when replacing engine oil to minimize the risk of your skin making contact

 

with used engine oil. Wear protective clothing and gloves. Wash your skin thoroughly with soap and water,

or use a waterless hand cleaner to remove any used engine oil. Do not use gasoline, thinners or solvents.

? For environmental protection, used oil and used oil filters must be disposed of at designated disposal sites.

 

1. DRAIN ENGINE OIL

a. Remove the oil filler cap.

b. Remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil into a container.

c. Clean and install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.

Torque: 37 N·m (377 kgf·cm, 27 ft·lbf)

2. REMOVE OIL FILTER CAP ASSEMBLY

a. Using SST, loosen the oil filter cap 4 revolutions, align the cap

ribs vertically, and drain the remaining engine oil in the oil filter

cap.

SST: 09228-06501

Set a container below the oil filter cap assembly before loosening the

oil filter cap.

b. Remove the oil filter cap assembly.

c. Remove oil filter element and O-ring from the oil filter cap.

Be sure to remove the O-ring (for the cap) by hand, without

using any tools, to prevent damage to the groove for the Oring

on the cap.

3. INSTALL OIL FILTER CAP ASSEMBLY

a. Clean the oil filter cap threads and O-ring groove.

b. Apply a small amount of engine oil to a new O-ring and install it to the oil filter cap.

c. Set a new oil filter element in the oil filter cap.

d. Remove any dirt or foreign matter from the installation surface and inside of the engine.

e. Reapply a small amount of engine oil to the O-ring of the oil

filter cap assembly. Align the cutout in the oil filter cap threads

90° to the grooves in the oil filter bracket and temporarily

tighten the cap.

Make sure that the O-ring does not get caught between the

parts.

f. Using SST, tighten the oil filter cap assembly.

Torque: 25 N·m (255 kgf·cm, 18 ft·lbf)

SST: 09228-06501

NOTICE:

? After tightening the oil filter cap assembly, check for gaps between the installation surfaces.

 

? Do not remove the oil filter bracket clip when installing the oil filter cap assembly.

 

? Do not cross thread the oil filter cap assembly.

 

4. ADD ENGINE OIL

a. Add fresh engine oil and install the oil filler cap.

Engine Oil

OIL GRADE

?ILSAC multigrade engine oil

OIL VISCOSITY (SAE)

? 0W-20

? 5W-20

Capacity

Drain and refill with oil filter change 4.2 liters (4.4 US qts, 3.7 lmp. qts)

Drain and refill without oil filter change 3.9 liters (4.1 US qts, 3.4 lmp. qts)

Dry fill 4.7 liters (5.0 US qts, 4.1 lmp. qts)

5. INSPECT FOR OIL LEAK

Here are my personal additions to the instructions:

 

(1) You don't need to lift the car. Unless you are very thick or very short, if you lie on your back (put a clean cardboard under you), you should be able to slide far enough from the front of the car to be able to reach the oil-filter cap. You will be stopped by the underside of the front bumper making contact with your upper chest, but your arm should extend barely enough to reach the filter cap.

 

(2) Surprisingly the drain-plug gasket is glued to the oil pan at the factory. Instead of trying to pry out the glued drain-plug gasket, I put a second, new genuine TOYOTA drain-plug gasket on top of the original glued drain-plug gasket, and I plan to leave the glued drain-plug gasket in place and replace the additional drain-plug gasket with every oil change.

 

(3) The most critical tool is the oil-filter wrench. If you don't have the right type of wrench, you will either not be able to remove the filter cap or damage it. Make sure to get a cap-style oil-filter wrench. The cap-style wrench should not be deep; otherwise, it won't work. You need a 65mm 14-flute cap-style oil-filter wrench. 65/67 mm dual-size wrenches are too deep and probably won't work. Plastic wrenches seem to work better than metal wrenches because they are more precisely molded than the metal wrenches are bent into shape. So, get the right type of wrench and try it before you drain your oil so that if it doesn't work, you could still drive around to find one that works.

.

(4) I recommend Mobil 1 0W-20 fully synthetic motor oil. I called the Toyota engine factory and they told me that they fill it with 0W-20 at the factory. It's better to keep the original viscosity and type of oil and not to switch to 5W-20 and/or conventional oil.

Happy oil changes!

I followed your instructions and found they worked well overall on my 2009 Corolla, with the 1.8 litre engine.

I tried to locate a 65 mm 14 flute oil filter cup or cap tool. I managed to find a 65 - 67 mm 14 flute tool at a local Napa Auto Parts. This is the only tool I could locate locally. It cost about $8.00. It worked good.

I agree a 65 mm without the 67 mm portion of the tool would be a bit better. I did locate on on line and ordered it.

I found the experience changing a canister oil filter to be a bit intimidating when I first wanted to change the oil. Remembering back many years when most cars and trucks used canister oil cartridges and what a hassle and mess they were.

The corolla was far easier to change, the canister being located near the oil pan and easy access. No mess no run off of oil all over the block and underbody. So the car will stay clean underneath after the oil change. And you can drain the oil pan and canister at the same time into one container.

I had to put the car up on ramps I bought at the local Wal Mart. They are 8" tall and worked well with the car being low to the ground. I used a ramp because I am tall and did not have enough elbow room under the car without using the ramp.

I could only locate a filter cartdridge at the Toyota dealer, no one has them in stock yet being a new car. I went to the Fram web site and tried to locate several they cite made by them and other companies. I did get one at the Toyota dealer ($7.00) they are the only ones that I could find one at.

I did used the Mobil 1 synthetic oil as you recommened. Have used it in the 5 Toyotas I have owned and never had a engine problem or any leaking from the engine seals.

I used the 5W-20 vice the 0W-20. Reason being is the environment where I live. After reading up on the oils on line and in the car owners manual decided 5W-20 would be best for the ambient temperature range I live in. The oil cap on the engine shows 0W-20 or 5W-20 oil should be used.

WOW, Really changing it up eh?

Remember KISS (Keep it simple stupid)

Did toyota really have to go change how to change your oil?

Seriously?

I am glad I've got an old one, unscrew, drain, rescrew, usscrew filter, rescrew filter, fill er up.

How long have we changed our oil this way? Did they really have to change it?

If it is environmental recycle your oil filter people, it's steel with paper.

:o