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Rev Limiter

by 954afe, December 15, 2006



so anyone know what my 95 ae101 rev limiter is like, can i disconct it or set it to a higher rpm?

I'm pretty sure they are the same way as the 8th gen - electronic and within the ECM.

Can't really disconnect it - but you can bypass them at the ECM. Unless you have better valve springs to keep up with the higher revs and lightened internals, I wouldn't even bother. Even at redline + 100RPM, you are pretty close to where the valves will start to float on you.

Probably get more gains running the usual bolt ons with a custom ground cam and engine management (most bang for the N/A buck) - making the most of what is already on the car with requiring a serious rebuild or parts swapping.

alright cool thanks, think ill take your advice and not do it

iirc on the 4age pcm you solder across a crystal and the redline is raised to 8k rpm, thats hardcoded into the PCM's engine managament as the absolute highest rpm. however at 8k your stock engine will not make any power and will disintegratewonderfully.

http://forums.club4ag.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_...mp;ARCHIVE=true heres more about the 4age, i'd imagine the other A blocks can be done in a similar way. but the F head wont make any power up that high, valves will float too as fish said.

Nice link Bitter - Hmm, never though about "overclocking" the Toyota factory brain - sounds pretty interesting. But be an expensive paperweight if you goof, like they mentioned in the postings.

yep, i'd never mess with it personally, but 954afe sounds like its something he'd want to try.

oh and they CAN reflash the 4age PCM's (per that thread) but i dont know if anyone in the US can. might have to send it overseas to get it flashed per your specs, so you had better be very sure of what you want changed. you could probably take some fuel away from high rpm wot and advance the timing curves a bit if you run 93 octane.

Does anyone makes cams for this engine? Without a cam to work at higher RPMs, you wouldn't really gain anything by doing it.

Crower makes cams for the 1ZZFE. There was also a small batch of custom cams from EL Prototypes - some of which are still available, if you can contact the right people. But if you can run a better cam, springs, and maybe lower the reciprocating mass - should be pretty good gains bumping up the revs. There are some 2ZZGE engines that can run to 11K with just a spring upgrade. Not sure they lasted very long, but it was shown they can run that high - Yamaha said that the design was good to 12K with the right bits.

im just wondering when i get a piggyback if then i can adjust it and see cause right now yah id make no power only thing that would be good about it is in some corners i wouldnt have to lift or shift

you shouldnt be acceling THROUGH corners anyways. you accel INTO the corner, let off so the car settles (not totally off, hold your speed. duh!), then accel OUT of the turn once you're 2/3 to 3/4 through it.

i've been corrected by my friend and i forgot you have an LSD. you can accel through...but if you're running out revs then you need to enter in a lower gear.

well i have been in a few situations where i hit rev limiter and half to shift but im only like 2mph or so above the rev limiter point from the previous gear, seems like a waste of time to shift if i could just hold through, especialy if i have to downshift for the next corner

Bikeman982

Seems that if you want to run your engine at higher RPM than stock, you will have to beef up other engine components so they will last. New cams and lifters might be required.

95, i meant to say higher gear but i was thinking lower rpm.

well if i enter in a higher gear, then its pointless to even take the corner cause i wont build the speed i need, just would be nice to hang some higher rpms when needed, and ya it will defintly take a toll on my engine but that is gonna be sorted out soon

you're making more power at 3500rpm than you are at 6300 rpm.

but take in consideration time to shift, cause yes i agree i make more power at 3500 than 6300 but say im in a corner an im toping out 2nd gear and i ahve to shift, but right after that a small brake section and then i would have to shift back to 2nd, now it would be faster to hangout 2nd for a second of two more and not have to shift at all up or down, see my point, most of the time i wouldnt need to do that but i have been in a few where it would have been handy ya know, kinda like some supra guys, why do they have 1000hp daily drivers? i mean do they use all that power? ya sometimes but not always and its always nice to know you have that power weather you need it or not, bad comparison maybe ha?

yea, bad comparison since they still have to shift gears too. just get better at shifting.

thats not the point, why shift up for 3 seconds and then ahve to shift down when i can just hold into those rpms for 3 seconds that buys me time, do you race? if you race alot you have prolly been in a situation like that, no matter how good you are at shifting it still does a few things slows you down a bit compared to keeping in the throttle, and two in a FF car it can make you push out more. kinda get what im saying now? i see your point but shifting for a a split second or so i think is pointless, just one mans thought though

i understand what you're saying. stop focusing on getting fast on a straight away, the 1.6 isnt going to do that. concentrate on hitting the turns are hard as you can, you can pick up some time there. when i'm zooming around having fun on some backroads twisties i put the auto in 2 and rarely get past that gear. rowing between 1st and 2nd isnt that bad, its just back and forth back and forth. 2nd should get you upto over 45mph, and i cant imagine anywhere on an Auto-X course you'd have the room to get to 45 before hitting a turn.

my friend who attended Skip Barber driving school and used to Auto-X alot more says....

"tell him to learn how to properly heel-and-toe shift"

Bikeman982

Fast shifting can certainly make your car respond better.

i am not even talking about going in a straight, ps i can heel toe, i am talking about having to shift while in a corner, just never you dont get what im saying im gonan stop trying to explain, taking corners fast is the only way i beat all the cars i do,

If you are having to shift during a corner or during an increasing slalom run - here s trick that some of us old cone bashers use - "taller tires". No joke, if you find that you need a just a hair more revs - picking a tire that is 5%+ larger can result in saving you a few hundred RPMs before redline. Granted you have more tire to work with and works against a lower powered car - but if it save you from shifting a couple of time, you can easily save a few tenths per shift in time and not loose speed.

well if i enter in a higher gear, then its pointless to even take the corner cause i wont build the speed i need, just would be nice to hang some higher rpms when needed, and ya it will defintly take a toll on my engine but that is gonna be sorted out soon

May I suggest some driver training. BMW for example puts on their advanced driver training courses and they're very good. They're not cheap but will be by far the best mod you could do with your car. You can also find books and info for free on the net. If you've ever watched touring cars you will notice that they have really short gearboxes and if this were a huge problem in racing then it would be a problem for you too.

Slow down, get into the corner and accelerate out past the apex. Normally you'd be downshifting under braking so when you get on the gas you can do it smoothly and will be in the "power band" of your engine. Since the acceleration starts as you pass the apex there is really no problem upshifting as your trajectory straightens. If your engine produces 120-130bhp between 4400-5700 then what's the point in spinning it up from 5700-7000 where it will make from 130-80bhp? Acceleration is greatest where the average power output of the engine is greatest so keep it between those revs.



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