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New To Owning A Corolla

by John Garrett August 20, 2006

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I bought a used 2001 CE last fall and it was a definite mistake. (All my fault.)

The car had 101,000 miles on it when I bought it and since then I have worked on it constantly.

The previous owner was the proverbial "little old lady" (really!). She's 75 years old and a nice lady, but I don't think she ever did any maintenance to the car - not even change the oil.

After I changed the oil, the engine got noisy, started burning oil, and now, has a pretty bad miss. I suspect her son-in-law "doctored" the oil/car. I know someone packed the front strut bearings with grease to make them quieter.

Last weekend I replaced the plugs, cleaned and swapped positions of the injectors, swapped the position of the coil packs, and I still have a miss/weak #3 cylinder. I am afraid I have a burned valve or other cylinder sealing problem.

Since I am new to Corollas, I have lots of questions. Such as are all 1ZZ-FE engines mechanically the same? If so, I could then replace this engine with an engine from a 2006 donor?

I have the three speed automatic transmission. Another mistake since most of my driving is high speed interstate highway, and a lot of it. It would be nice to replace the engine and transmission together if that's feasible.

So far I have put new struts on it all the way around, new tires, and new brakes.

I've spent a ton of money on this beast with no end in sight. I bought it for the fuel economy since I drive about 4000 miles a month, but I'm beginning to think I should've bought a new Mercedes SL. It would've been cheaper!

Any guidance or advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John Garrett

Bikeman982

Sounds like you feel like you got a bad deal, but it is probably not as bad as it seems. There are troubleshooting methods you can use to help determine exactly what is wrong with the car and once that is done, it can be fixed. You should get a long life out of the car if properly maintained. The mileage you have is far from excessive and Corollas have been known to go much further.

Replacing the engine would be the last resort. It probably could be repaired for much less money.

If you have to replace the engine, the tranny could also be changed.

I am in the process of changing an engine/tranny for the third time - practice is helping it go faster each time.

I recommend you purchase a Chilton or Haynes repair manual and maybe enlist the help of someone knowledgable to assist you. This forum has lots of great advice within it and you can search for solutions that have worked for others. Don't give up on it and welcome to this site!!

Sounds like you feel like you got a bad deal, but it is probably not as bad as it seems. There are troubleshooting methods you can use to help determine exactly what is wrong with the car and once that is done, it can be fixed. You should get a long life out of the car if properly maintained. The mileage you have is far from excessive and Corollas have been known to go much further. Replacing the engine would be the last resort. It probably could be repaired for much less money.

 

If you have to replace the engine, the tranny could also be changed.

I am in the process of changing an engine/tranny for the third time - practice is helping it go faster each time.

I recommend you purchase a Chilton or Haynes repair manual and maybe enlist the help of someone knowledgable to assist you. This forum has lots of great advice within it and you can search for solutions that have worked for others. Don't give up on it and welcome to this site!!

 

I have a Haynes manual that I have been working out of so far, and that's about all I know about the Corolla from a technical standpoint.

It has been my experience in the past that if you do a proper valve job on an engine, especially one that's burning some oil, that you have created a monster by sealing the top end of the engine back to factory specs and now it will burn oil like crazy because of weak rings.

I've also read that the cylinders have cast-in iron sleeves that are .020" thick. That doesn't leave much room for boring for oversize parts.

Speaking of parts, I have looked everyplace I can think of and I can't find rings available for this engine. Is this a dealer only item or something? I can by rings for a Packard, Studebaker, or DeSoto, but not for a 2001 Corolla. What gives?!

I'd still like to know about the engine swap/fitment thing. What engines are a "drop in" fit for this car? I've discovered that if I'm willing to wait and keep my eyes open, I can eventually find just about anything at a great price. I can afford to wait (some) because I also have a Ranger pickup that I can drive in the mean time, but it doesn't get the mileage I'd like to see.

Any help/advice/guidance appreceiated!

Thanks,

John Garrett

As for the rings - that would be a dealership item or from an online retailer that specializes in import parts.

For transmission and engine swaps - it wou;d be best to stick within the same generation (ie. your is a 1ZZFE with VVT-i - I would stick with 2000-2002 Corollas for potential swaps with the transmission and engine). The 2003+ Corollas would physically fit - but would be far from a true drop in swap. Most all the wiring, emission, EVAP system have to be redone or pulled of the donor vehicle. At least the engine will sit in the engine bay. Parts from the newer 1ZZFE will also be slightly different from the previous ones - as they have addressed some issues with running changes that make the two engines slighlty different.

A company called Monkeywrench Racing specializes with the Toyota 1ZZFE and 2ZZGE engines. http://monkeywrenchracing.com/ There are others as well - but I've heard positive things from Monkey Wrench (at least in the tuning circles).

Bikeman982

Haynes is a good reference - Chilton also works.

Because you do a valve adjustment, should not affect rings, although it will burn oil if they are worn.

Rings should only be bought new and not good for using old ones - they are tight tolerance parts.

Engine is also not conducive to oversizing cylinders and it is best to change engines for larger displacement.

I am not sure about "drop in" replacement engines, but one way to check is to visit dealer and inquire as to what engines were available for your year/model car.

The older cars are not a problem to me, as they are in abundance at the junkyards and I can just read off the engine numbers from the decals under the hoods.

I would think there is a compatibility listing somewhere and you just need to locate one.

friendly_jacek

I bought a used 2001 CE last fall and it was a definite mistake. (All my fault.)

The car had 101,000 miles on it when I bought it and since then I have worked on it constantly.

The previous owner was the proverbial "little old lady" (really!). She's 75 years old and a nice lady, but I don't think she ever did any maintenance to the car - not even change the oil.

After I changed the oil, the engine got noisy, started burning oil, and now, has a pretty bad miss. I suspect her son-in-law "doctored" the oil/car. I know someone packed the front strut bearings with grease to make them quieter.

Last weekend I replaced the plugs, cleaned and swapped positions of the injectors, swapped the position of the coil packs, and I still have a miss/weak #3 cylinder. I am afraid I have a burned valve or other cylinder sealing problem.

Since I am new to Corollas, I have lots of questions. Such as are all 1ZZ-FE engines mechanically the same? If so, I could then replace this engine with an engine from a 2006 donor?

I have the three speed automatic transmission. Another mistake since most of my driving is high speed interstate highway, and a lot of it. It would be nice to replace the engine and transmission together if that's feasible.

So far I have put new struts on it all the way around, new tires, and new brakes.

I've spent a ton of money on this beast with no end in sight. I bought it for the fuel economy since I drive about 4000 miles a month, but I'm beginning to think I should've bought a new Mercedes SL. It would've been cheaper!

Any guidance or advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John Garrett

So, you are ready to replace the engine.

Did you check compression? Did you try to unstuck the rings with AutoRx cleaning?

Bikeman982

If you need to change the engine , are you planning on doing it yourself??

If you need to change the engine , are you planning on doing it yourself??

 

No, due to arthritis in my hands, I can't open my hands completely, or close my hands on anything small such as a wrench. So I'm no longer capable of doing that myself. I've been paying for the work I've done to it so far with the pain in my fingers. They call them fingers, but mine don't fing very well any more.

I do have a friend who is a very compentent mechanic and will do the tough stuff for a reasonable price.

Thanks,

John Garrett

Bikeman982

If you need to change the engine , are you planning on doing it yourself??

 

No, due to arthritis in my hands, I can't open my hands completely, or close my hands on anything small such as a wrench. So I'm no longer capable of doing that myself. I've been paying for the work I've done to it so far with the pain in my fingers. They call them fingers, but mine don't fing very well any more.

I do have a friend who is a very compentent mechanic and will do the tough stuff for a reasonable price.

Thanks,

John Garrett

It's good to have someone competent that won't try to take advantage of you, especially when it comes to automotive work.

The typical "little old lady" has a low mileage car.

Perhaps this car's history isn't what you thought it was.

Good luck.

Bikeman982

The typical "little old lady" has a low mileage car.

Perhaps this car's history isn't what you thought it was.

Good luck.

Maybe someone else drove it when she was sleeping??

 

 

The typical "little old lady" has a low mileage car.

Perhaps this car's history isn't what you thought it was.

Good luck.

Maybe someone else drove it when she was sleeping??

 

The typical "little old lady" has a low mileage car.

Perhaps this car's history isn't what you thought it was.

Good luck.

Maybe someone else drove it when she was sleeping??

 

 

Can anyone give me any guidance on what engine I can use?

I understand that they're differences between the blocks betweeen the auto transmission engines and the standard transmission engines. Also that I should use a 2001 or a 2002 engine due to changes in the later engines. Is that true? Or is it differences in the external parts, such as the manifolds?

Thanks,

John

Bikeman982

[Perhaps this car's history isn't what you thought it was.

The typical "little old lady" has a low mileage car.

Can anyone give me any guidance on what engine I can use?

I understand that they're differences between the blocks betweeen the auto transmission engines and the standard transmission engines. Also that I should use a 2001 or a 2002 engine due to changes in the later engines. Is that true? Or is it differences in the external parts, such as the manifolds?

Thanks,

John

 

You need to have the list of which engines will fit in your year model.

If your car is an automatic, it can be done, but it is harder to make it standard.

Some transmissions are interchangeable depending on your engine.

The easiest fix is to replace everything with a like item - engine, transmission, etc.

Anything else requires more adaption and some things may not be compatible at all.

I know you are looking for something more specific (numbers/letters/sizes, etc.) and that is where you need to consult with references such as; manuals, dealerships, owners with the same model/year, internet websites, etc.

Anyone here have a 2001?? What is your model and engine/transmission??

GOOD NEWS (and a warning)

The good news is that I just got rid of Hirohito's revenge.

Bought a new car - a Dodge. It's kinda nice driving a real car again.

Are you folks aware of the of the specs of Corolla junk?! The valves are NOT adjustable. Nor are the hydraulicly adjusting. If you have valve lash out of spec, you have to replace the lifter. Toyota has about a gazillion sizes of them, so there IS one for you. To replace a lifter, you must remove the camshaft and timing chain. Big Fun! Also the "cylinder sleeves" are iron plating inside the cylinder bores that is .020" thick. Most bumpers have more plating than that. Of course Corollas don't have bumpers, only plastic pads. As far as I'm concerned, the Corolla engine is a disposable engine. I wouldn't even bother trying to repair one.

If your are going to try to keep one I would recommend that you change the oil every time you fill up with gas. Let's keep that wear to a minimum.

Oh, the warning - somewhere out there, most likely in Kentucky is a silver 2001 Corolla that in very hushed Japanese chants "please feed me American dollars!". Avoid it at all cost.

From now on when I want a "toy" anything, I'll go buy a motorcycle. I'm sure glad Toyota doesn't make motorcycles!

Goodbye!

John

[Perhaps this car's history isn't what you thought it was.

The typical "little old lady" has a low mileage car.

Can anyone give me any guidance on what engine I can use?

I understand that they're differences between the blocks betweeen the auto transmission engines and the standard transmission engines. Also that I should use a 2001 or a 2002 engine due to changes in the later engines. Is that true? Or is it differences in the external parts, such as the manifolds?

Thanks,

John

 

You need to have the list of which engines will fit in your year model.

If your car is an automatic, it can be done, but it is harder to make it standard.

Some transmissions are interchangeable depending on your engine.

The easiest fix is to replace everything with a like item - engine, transmission, etc.

Anything else requires more adaption and some things may not be compatible at all.

I know you are looking for something more specific (numbers/letters/sizes, etc.) and that is where you need to consult with references such as; manuals, dealerships, owners with the same model/year, internet websites, etc.

Anyone here have a 2001?? What is your model and engine/transmission??

see you on the mopar forums in 75k miles when the whole dodge engine is broken.

  • 1,424 posts
see you on the mopar forums in 75k miles when the whole dodge engine is broken.

I agree with Bitter on this one.

Really, I mean bash a Corolla because the previous owner abused the absolute crap out of it. You buy an abused used car and you get what you bought, someone else's problems. Want to avoid that issue, buy new.

Do us all a favor and don't come back to complain when your new Neon is falling apart in every conceivable way with less than 100k on it.

"The good news is that I just got rid of Hirohito's revenge. "

default_biggrin

Do us all a favor and don't come back to complain when your new Neon is falling apart in every conceivable way with less than 100k on it.

My corolla feels like a luxury car compared to the Neon.

see you on the mopar forums in 75k miles when the whole dodge engine is broken.

I agree with Bitter on this one.

Really, I mean bash a Corolla because the previous owner abused the absolute crap out of it. You buy an abused used car and you get what you bought, someone else's problems. Want to avoid that issue, buy new.

Do us all a favor and don't come back to complain when your new Neon is falling apart in every conceivable way with less than 100k on it.

 

Neon my ######! I've owned 12 Dodges and Plymouths since 1986 (none of them a Neon). Other than routine maintenance, the worst problem I've had is a bad power window motor in a 1999 Durango. No problems with: engines, transmissions, bearings, leaks, or anything elst one would consider "major". Not even a water pump, alternator, or starter.

I'm not blaming the Corolla for the lack of maintenance that it received, I don't like the fact that they built an engine can't be effectively repaired.

Given a choice of buying gasoline or parts, I'll buy gas. It's a lot easier to install.

see you on the mopar forums in 75k miles when the whole dodge engine is broken.

I agree with Bitter on this one.

Really, I mean bash a Corolla because the previous owner abused the absolute crap out of it. You buy an abused used car and you get what you bought, someone else's problems. Want to avoid that issue, buy new.

Do us all a favor and don't come back to complain when your new Neon is falling apart in every conceivable way with less than 100k on it.

 

Neon my ######! I've owned 12 Dodges and Plymouths since 1986 (none of them a Neon). Other than routine maintenance, the worst problem I've had is a bad power window motor in a 1999 Durango. No problems with: engines, transmissions, bearings, leaks, or anything elst one would consider "major". Not even a water pump, alternator, or starter.

Oh, did I say that when those 12 Mopars went to the great recycler in the sky, they ALL had over 200,000 miles on them. I wouldn't want you folks to think that Toyota has the corner on longevity.

I'm not blaming the Corolla for the lack of maintenance that it received, I don't like the fact that they built an engine can't be effectively repaired.

Given a choice of buying gasoline or parts, I'll buy gas. It's a lot easier to install.

You should check your policy to make sure you have towing coverage on your insurance. Also, your new favorite hang out will be the local Motard stealership when that turd falls apart every other day. Additionally, if you have plenty of sick days that would be a bonus when "old reliable" fails to get you to work repeatedly. Simple math: 2 Dodges = life span of 1 Toyota.

You should check your policy to make sure you have towing coverage on your insurance. Also, your new favorite hang out will be the local Motard stealership when that turd falls apart every other day. Additionally, if you have plenty of sick days that would be a bonus when "old reliable" fails to get you to work repeatedly. Simple math: 2 Dodges = life span of 1 Toyota.

 

Please see my latest reply.

"Neon my ######! I've owned 12 Dodges and Plymouths since 1986 (none of them a Neon)."

I have owned only TWO Toyota's since 1988. And the second one is running like a charm. First one I sold after 11 years without any problems.

What's this A Dodge every 1.6 years? I wonder!

"Neon my ######! I've owned 12 Dodges and Plymouths since 1986 (none of them a Neon)."

I have owned only TWO Toyota's since 1988. And the second one is running like a charm. First one I sold after 11 years without any problems.

What's this A Dodge every 1.6 years? I wonder!

 

Yes! A Dodge every 1.6 years. I won't let my wife drive a Toy either. Did I mention that I drive 6,000 miles a month as a field technician for a very large Japanese company? I don't wait for them to beak before I get rid of them. A Dodge has NEVER left me stranded. More that I can say for a Toy.

Iv'e read on this very forum all of the people complaining about oil comsumption, and sludgy engines because they run so hot and break the oil down. An speaking of oil, I'm REALLY impressed by the huge oil filter that the Corolla engine uses.

I've owned one and I know that you can't defend your position with a machine gun.

If your'e happy driving a Toy, that's great, but finished driving a tin box with a disposable engine.

I'm reminded of the early days of Audi in America. If there engineers were half as good as their marketing people, they would've had one hell of a car!

Since I no longer own a Toy, (thank God), I think it's time to unsubscribe from this forum.

A car is only as good as it is maintained - regardless of what sticker is slapped on the front hood of the car or country of origin. You will get an oddball one from a manufacturer every once and a while - some people just have better luck with one brand over another. Some just have different thresholds for what is considered something wrong vs a "feature". Some just like bigger vehicles - that's why HUmmers are so popular to some areas.

I've owned and driven domestic (GM, MOPAR, and FoMoCo), european (Porsche, BMW, VW, and Opel), japanese (Honda, Toyota, and Subaru), and korean made cars (hyundai) - a mix of trucks, SUVs, cars, wagons, sports cars - I've had some that were more trouble prone than others. But they all held up a for a little while - some better than others.

So far - I've been more impressed with what doesn't need to be fixed - the Hondas and Toyotas - just drive them, do normal maintenace, and they just keep going. But doesn't do much else - just a commuter car. Unlike my old Plymouth Valiant with the Slant-6 - ask anyone that knows cars and they will agree they are just about unstopable. Had a couple of bigblock "parade floats" - 1974 Dodge Monaco for example - pretty much a tank that road like the living room couch on wheels. 1986 Hyundai Excel hatch - ratty POS ever, but would not die - just kept rolling.

The others - atleast the first six months were all pretty much the same. Worse one was a 1967 Ford - broke down as we were leaving the dealership followed closely by a 1998 Dodge Dakota - first three years spent more time in the shop than on our lot (changed everything on the truck except for the glass)

Too late in the day to reply but I'll be back....I felt the same way about a 1998 Ford Ranger that I owned recently.

Don't go away John. There's a lot of general automotive info here as well.

Jay in MA

Is there any merit to this angry poster's claims that corolla's cylinders cast-in iron sleeves are too thin to rebuilt? Actually, I've been thinking about tranny swapping and rebuilding the engine in the future, so if the angry poster is right, then I might have to reconsider.



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