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Vibrations And More Vibrations

by vwgolfist, April 18, 2006



anyway it vibrates, when stopped, steering wheel, hood (i can actually see it), horn, what could it be,

when i am actualy driving it is smooth as butter.

i replaced plugs, air filter, timing belt, oil, coolant, transmission fluid, battery, what else? mounts maybe?

mounts should have been the 1st place you looked default_tongue but im sure that it needed those other items already.

if its not the mounts it could be an ignition timing issue.

Bikeman982

Could be numerous things. If engine mounts are bad they could cause it to vibrate. Problem could be timing, ignition, or vacuum leak. May also be a fuel injection problem.

Guest Stephen Evry

Hi All,

I'm a 'new' 1995 Corolla Dx owner. I purchased 'previously owned' from a local Honda dealer. It has been back to this dealer several times for this exact vibration issue. Their latest claim is that it may be caused by a loose bolt on the flywheel. I'm not sure if it's that or a loose nut in the Manager's chair just hoping that I would just go away.

Has anyone heard about the flywheel issue before?

Thanks.

-Stephen

I'd add to check the IAC valve (idle speed too low or high) and EGR valve function (can cause knocking), if equipped. Can cause excessive vibration at idle. As for the loose nut on the flywheel - pretty remote, unless someone messed with it recently.

I'd add to check the IAC valve (idle speed too low or high) and EGR valve function (can cause knocking), if equipped. Can cause excessive vibration at idle. As for the loose nut on the flywheel - pretty remote, unless someone messed with it recently.

 

my car vibrates only when stopped, and in "D" position, when in neutral it is ok. If I put it in "D", press brake

pedal and accelerate just a bit, vibrations are gone. How can I adjust idle speed? My car is not equiped with RPM meter

95dx

is the vibration cyclical? is there a pattern to it? if there is then its one of your plugs, the plug is dirty, not gapped right, ect. on a 4 cylinder if i know the firing order i can almost tell you which plugs to check just by feeling and listening to it :-D im not joking! i knew that i had to regap #1 or #4 in my car when i had a vibration at idle and i knew that my GF's escort had 2 dirty, improperly gapped, or incorrect plugs. and sure enough 2 of the plugs were 2 heat ranges too cold.

i'll try to explain how to feel for this the best i can. put your hand on the engine when its at idle in D with the wheels chocked and parking brake on or someone in the car.

with your hand on the engine feel if theres a pattern it may be like ...-. ...-. ...-. which would indicate that its one of the 4 plugs that has an issue. if it feels more like ..-- or .-.- then it would be 2 plugs. it takes a while to be able to sense these things and you need a keen knowledge of how the engine operates. ive been around small engines and cars for a little while but i pick up and learn things like this really fast.

you can also listen for slight misfire at the tail pipe, there will be a different tone when it misses.

I pretty much have the same problem. I change my spark plugs frequently. If the EGR valve was bad wouldn't the check engine light come on?

I pretty much have the same problem. I change my spark plugs frequently. If the EGR valve was bad wouldn't the check engine light come on?
Not always - sometime it has to completely fail before the CEl will pop up - sometimes CEL will pop up where there isn't a problem.

 

 

my car vibrates only when stopped, and in "D" position, when in neutral it is ok. If I put it in "D", press brakepedal and accelerate just a bit, vibrations are gone. How can I adjust idle speed? My car is not equiped with RPM meter

 

95dx

Your model year is right in the OBD-I and OBD-II crossover point - but I have a feeling yours is OBD-I. On the OBD-II Corollas - you cannot alter the idle speed, set by the engine computer. Not sure what they did on the 1995 model year. You can try increasing the idle speed by adjusting the stops on the throttle cable that run to the throttle body. OEM specs for idle speed is 700RPM +/- 50RPM - a RPM meter that hooks to the battery and has an inductive pickup for the #1 plug wire will help, if you do not have a tach.

 

Might want to try checking the spark plug gaps - you don't more than a 0.008" variance between the bunch. The rule of thumb on plug gaps (old school method - still works) is to open them up in 0.002" increments at a time. When yo notice the car begins to lose power or slow down then back the gaps down a hair (0.001" - 0.002") and this in most cases is the optimum gap for your vehicle.

I pretty much have the same problem. I change my spark plugs frequently. If the EGR valve was bad wouldn't the check engine light come on?

Not always - sometime it has to completely fail before the CEl will pop up - sometimes CEL will pop up where there isn't a problem.

 

 

How can you check to see if the EGR is working properly or not? Or what are some of the common symptoms of it beggining to fail?

[How can you check to see if the EGR is working properly or not? Or what are some of the common symptoms of it beggining to fail?
A faulty EGR system can cause pinging, rough idling, stalling, hesitation, and/or performance loss. The EGR system (if you have one, some models use computer control or different engine design to eliminate the need for EGR) is generally vacuum controlled - need to look at a service manual for your particular model and its test procedure.

 

 

Guest DiverseCC

Im having the same kind of problem, my 95 vibrates all the time, when i go over a good dip in the road, when the weight gets lifted off it seems to fade, and on the highway at just the right rpm i can get it to fade away, i thought it was a mount but its not, its runs fine, gets tuned up, i dont know what to try

My 2001 Corolla S vibrates somewhat a lot when I am idling in drive, I feel it while sitting down. What could the problem be? I have already tried changing sparkplugs, trans fluid, coolant, and air filter, but it is still there. It's not a very huge problem, but it's just something that annoys me a lot. It's not like the whole dash is shaking. The car is very smooth when I am accelerating though.

On the 8th gen - try cleaning the MAF sensor in the airbox, AIC valve on bottom of throttle body, and/or cleaning the throttle body itself. May also want to take a look at the PCV valve and related vacuum hoses for the EVAP system. The 1ZZ-FE engine is not the smoothest plant out there - its loud, noisy compared to others of similar displacement.

On the 8th gen - try cleaning the MAF sensor in the airbox, AIC valve on bottom of throttle body, and/or cleaning the throttle body itself. May also want to take a look at the PCV valve and related vacuum hoses for the EVAP system. The 1ZZ-FE engine is not the smoothest plant out there - its loud, noisy compared to others of similar displacement.

I just cleaned the MAF sensor, it was very easy. I took it out saw that it was very dirty, the two cables were all black, sprayed some CRC MAF sensor cleaner solution and it became silver looking. I think it helped a little bit, how do I clean the AIC valve, is it difficult? Also, should I replace the PCV valve, I noticed that there are 2 available (FV406 and FB407) for my car, which one should I get? Does the brand matter also, I have only found Fram, is that good?

As a side note, the car vibrates a lot more when I turn on the A/C is that completely normal?

For the PCV valve - there is one type that fits into a rubber grommet, the other screws in directly into the valvecover - just take a peek before you buy it. Never tried the Fram variant PCV valve - but given past FRAM experience with other replacement parts, like transmission pan gaskets and filter assemblies for me in the past (none of them fitted correctly) - I tend to stay far away from them. You can also try cleaning the valve as well, if you cannot find an appropriate part - just spray solvent through it while shaking it - should rattle if clean.

AIC assemble (Toyota service manual calls it the ISC - idle control system) is not very hard to clean, but will require quite a bit more work. It is attached to the throttle body and is close to sensitive electronics, like the TPS (throttle position sensor). Since you mention that the A/C kills the idle quality - could be the idle control circuit (electronic issue) or more likely, the physical rotary valve is clogged up.



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