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Marcos

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About Marcos

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  • Birthday 01/15/1988
  1. Gauge Bezel

    I'll probably just yank one out of the XRS then. I wanted to do this insted becuase I want to keep the overall stock look, I dont want 2million guages on my dash and A pillar. I want it to look clean and professional.
  2. <BR><BR>Yeah, both engines will make power - just in different ways. The 2ZZ-GE is known to make tangible gains with bolt-ons that enable better breathing and exhaust - like the previous G-series heads, it was optimized from the start for better breathing. Doesn't mean that the 1ZZ-FE is poor in comparison, just won't respond as well with the same mods. Since you are thinking of boost, this makes it less of an issue. Already starting out with lower compression - the 1ZZ-FE has a little more flexibility with boosting. Also being an undersquare engine - you'll tend to see more torque produced in this engine under boost compared to the 2ZZ-GE. <BR><BR>There are quite a few boosted 1ZZ-FE, so there is good wealth of knowledge, tried and trued processes. Most run boost levels from as low as 6PSI to as much as 12PSI on more or less a stock engine. Upgrades to the engine itself were generally larger injectors, stronger oil pump, high capacity oil pan, and larger fuel pump. Some ran air-air intercoolers, some ran without (low boost only, even then it is pretty dangerous). Typical number with boosting 10-12PSI were 190-210HP/190-210TQ. Couple that with a little port and polish, maybe drop in some better cams - 220-230HP/TQ is definitely possible. Being non-VVTi makes it somewhat easier to tune in the past, but doesn't really matter now. Before support was pretty lacking for VVT-i and VVTL-i, now support is growing, tuner knowledge base is also increasing. <BR><BR>This doesn't mean that boost is the only way to go - just one option. What I've seen N/A option wise for a 1ZZ-FE on a stock bottom end (OEM crank is pretty tough - 2ZZ-GE stroked and boosted projects use stock 1ZZ-FE cranks!):<BR><BR>- sleeve the block (bore to 1.93L)<BR>- quality piston (82mm to match the larger bore - CR matches OEM or push to 12.5:1, depends on the build direction)<BR>- upgrade to billet rods<BR>- new bearings, main and head studs<BR>- upgraded oil pump (Circuitwerx gears)<BR>- Moroso oil pan (higher capacity)<BR>- Crower Stage 3 cams (new springs and retainers)<BR>- upgraded valves and seals <BR>- port and polish head (get the head from MR2 has larger valves)<BR>- custom intake manifold with larger throttlebody<BR>- custom header + catback<BR>- higher capacity fuel pump<BR>- appropriate sized injectors<BR>- EMS system (Apexi PowerFC, Megasquirt, AEM, etc.)<BR><BR>Might make up to 180-200HP with those mods, depending on the tune. Amount of cash outlay would be equivalent to the boosted application - so you don't really "save" money. Some just like N/A option. Definitely more work involved here, but you can also look at this as a potential starting point for future boost projects - since you just built up the engine internally. Only thing that will limit this is time and money. Parts are already out there - just need to bring it together.<BR><BR><BR>I am going to resleeve it for sure, I was unaware though that the MR2 heads were diffrent, I will definetly look into that. What types of pistons should I use though, I want them to be able to handle a good amount of boost without a problem. As you were saying about torque I am using a Garett t24bb turbo just becuase I am after that low RPM torque. <BR><BR>As for intercooler I am going with an air to water, it gets hot up here in the summer (105+) so that air isnt going to cool it off much. Would you reccomend using the titanum rods or the billet ones instead, I am getting a lighter flywheel and the lighter knife edge crank, also the motor will be coupled to a 2zz 6speed tranny. One more thing should I just go ahead and add the VVT-I head, I already have a PowerFC, how would this affect my street drivability i.e taking off from stop lights and stop signs? Thanks Fish I really apprecitate the help. Oh and one more thing do you know the part number or were i can get the Circuitwerx gears for the oil pump, that is a MUST a frind of mine blew up his B16B becuase his oil pump died in it.
  3. Yeah I got them mixed up to thats why I edited my post. LOL!
  4. Undersquare... If only I had money for a Lambo... Then I wouldnt be building a Corolla, right?
  5. That sounds nice but that means buying a new motor, new engine managment, and all the other stuff I've bought for the 1zz motor.
  6. Thanks Fish, I think I might as well do the 2zz swap then (I was really trying to avoid it), I mean the motor is out of the car already, thats half of the work right. As a clarification the only reason i wanted to use the 1zz was becuase i heard it had a stronger bottom end than the 2zz (I dont know how true that is). I heard that it was able to hold up better to boosting than the 2zz as the 2zz had lighter internals. For now I think that Im going to go ahead and continue with the 1zz, I've read people have made up to 400+ hp on these motors, Im not shooting that high Id be happy with 200-220hp and maybe 180ft/lbs of torque. Do you have any suggestions on how to do that, especially on the internals.
  7. Hey Everyone, Does anyone know if you can get a guage set/kit for the 8th Gen Corolla that has tach with Higher RPMs and a Higher Top speed? I've seen alot of guage kits for it but they are just reverse glow etc. and they are exactly the same with the Tach toping out at 8,000 rpms and 110 mph. Any suggestions?
  8. Thanks for being understanding you guys. I feel like a complete ######. We'll i am extremely commited to this project and I want to build something that is one of a kind so I dont mind spending some extra bank on it, although my girl says i shouldnt lol. As an update I have the motor out of the car on a stand. I just finished fabing a set of custom headers for a Garett t4 turbo. Also I have (in the boxes still) an apexi power-fc, crower stage 3 cams from mwr, stainless steel valves, and mwr springs with titanium retainers, also have and AEM underdrive pully kit, AEM fuel rail, 550cc injectors, an Apexi ground kit, and a air to water intercooler. And from what fishexpo has told me I think im going to go ahead and buy the crank and rods. Also on order I have a Gtech lip kit, just to give the car a little more edge. I will post some pics as soon as i start to work on it. I havent started becuase its been above 105F over here and I really dont feel like getting dehydrated. Again thanks for the info Fish and just to let you know there are probably going to be alot more. I really appreciate the help, this is my first toyota build, I've done a couple of b18s and b16 but never to this extent so Im really looking forward to it.
  9. Thanks fishexpo. I definetly want to be able to make and sustain some high revs. I would also like to boost the car maybe 10 or 11 psi. Would this affect me using these rods and crank? I will be driving it occasionally e.g. going to the store and such, It wont be my daily driver tho. Any recomendations?
  10. Hey everyone I have a question, Fishexpo you probably kno the answer . I want to buy the Titanium connecting rods on monkeywrenchracing.com but it says that they are for the 1zz with vvt-i and Im running a non vvt-i, will they fit? From what Ive seen from working on the 1zz the bottom ends are the same between the non vvt-i and the vvt-i but im no expert. I would like to kno before the spend the $2500 on them and then come to find out they dont fit. Also any thoughts on the knife edge crank? Thanks for the help. Heres a pic of the rods and crank.
  11. Hey thanks fishexpo i was just on andysautosport.com and i saw the Hotchkis kit and i think I am going to order it. Ill keep you guys posted. I really appreciate the help, and i am so sorry about the whole turbo post (I just wanna drag some one with my car).
  12. AHHHH!!!!! Hey everyone, im sorry about the turbo post... I am so embarrased and humiliate d<IMG src="https://www.corolland.com/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif"> . When I left home from work i didnt turn off my computer and i left this site up. Some one at work thought it would be funny to make me look like an Idiot (You know who you are...). I am sorry about it, oh and Fishexpo good call on the bs. I only wish it were true, 10k rpms, i would be so stoked. Im just really embarrased i dont know how to apologize.
  13. Hello, Thermal and fishexpo. I was reading about your swaybar upgrade and it sounds awesome. I have a question for both of you tho, I have a Tein full coilover kit on my car but I didn't upgrade my swaybars, was this a bad move, should I upgrade my swaybars. I mean the car handles awesome, hugs the road, extremely fast turning, it handles just like an expensive sports car. I guess what i am trying to say is am i getting all the handling i could as opposed to upgrading the swaybars, will I damage anything if i dont do so etc? Also on the note of rims/tires I have Falken rims (gonna have to get to you back on the exact model) they are 18"x 7.5", the tires im using are Falken Ziex ZE-512s, they are 215/Z35/R18. Let me tell you the rims look great and the tires perform awesome (Never tried bridgestone, Thats what I'll get when I need new tires...). The extra width really helps for cornering, acceleration, etc. especially since my car is turboed. The small ridgid sidewalls also help alot with cornering, they keep more of the tire on the road. You said you were scared someone might steal your rims if you got better ones, try wheel locks, but if you really want to remain "incognito" at least consider a wider rim, trust me you wont regret it!!