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Gold101

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Everything posted by Gold101

  1. I have had experience tinting a few different cars on my own. I used www.tintdude.com for all of my information. If you can find it I always recomend Llumar tint to people because of its durability and color. Walmart tint is purple and fades quickly Gila tint is typically more of a blueish color which isnt as bad but still dosent look the best and lasts longer than walmart Llumar is true tint, it will look factory, will not fade easily and has a dark brownish/black color to it. 3m sells window tint and I have no experience with their brands, although ive read good things about it. The one thing you need to remember for successful tint other than patience, is to never use amonia based cleaners on your windows before or after tinting. I believe it takes a few weeks for the amonia to finish oxidizing, thats why you see so many terrible jobs, people used windex before tinting which creates bubles. Keep a relatively hair and dust free work environment, and you should do a good job.
  2. Hey, sorry for the delay. Yes you have to remove the rear deck with the high mount stop light housing. The sides where the seat belt coils up can be left alone, I have never touched that. The rear deck will bow in the middle as your taking it out, its fine its quite flexible. Your best bet is just to dive in, its really quite simple. I found the hardest part was just getting around to doing it in general. Hope that helps
  3. There is alot to learn about window film. First off never use windex on your car windows if they have window film on them, or if your considering putting window tint on. Windex has amonia in it and amonia oxidizes for about 3 weeks(I believe) after it is applied to a glass surface. Use an amonia free cleaner, I use Stoners, it comes in a spray can at walmart, black with yellow top. Now, the rippeling is most likely caused by improper film application, IE cleaning with amonia prior to applying film, or not cleaning the surface at all in the first place. What you may need to do is tear off all the tint, and in some cases your left with glue residue, I use a razor blade to get this off, apply baby powder to the glue to make it all show up and keep it from sticking to itself, then scrape away. You will probably damage a defroster line, best bet is to just be careful as possible. Any other tint questions can be answered here: www.tintdude.com
  4. Ahh, I didn't even consider this. I will seperate the glue and try to get the emblem out. That would make sense so the trunk design automatically centers the logo on its own. I'll post my results with this, probably later tonight. Thanks
  5. It's a 95 base model corolla. The issue though is that they are not bolts, more rivets and I can not figure out how to remove it without destroying them. If you look at your own corolla, or any toyota they have this emblem that is held in place by these things.
  6. hmmm... I only have the emblem in the center that is bolted through the trunk. I am more concerned with how it is bolted through, I am at a loss as to how this can be done without damaging these "bolts." I ask because my emblem is damaged, the chrome is chipped off and sharp around the edges revealing a white/yellow plastic beneath, it looks bad so I would like to try and work some magic on it's appearance.
  7. Does anybody know how to remove the rear toyota emblem safely? I would like to be able to reattach the emblem and want it to survive removal.
  8. Is your amp a 4 channel amp for the interior speakers or an amp for subwoofers? I would say it sounds like it has nothing to do with the water. Its possible you have poor connections somewhere and as you drive they settle into a better position or move to worse. I would check/adjust and tighten all connections. If the problem persists it is probably your head unit dying. If the unit is not old, it could possibly be your amp depending on the brands your using the problems could have different sources.
  9. You are all missing the problem unfortunately. Clearly joeschmo has run his power and audio wires side by side to the amp. This is what causes distortion and clicking and other mysterious electrical problems, especially popping from the subs. It's unfortunate that you bought a new alternator and battery to solve this problem unless you already needed them. Run the power wires (positive battery connection and the remote turn on wire for the amp) down the battery side of the car to the amp. Run the audio cables down the opposite side of the car to the amp. This should solve your problem. try to make sure they dont crossover at all for clearest sound. Also, if you are looking for a good ground, use a bolt holding the rear seat in place. If you connect it to a body pannel you will get an annoying shock every time you close your car door after a ride. For the radios ground, you should use the original, but if your making a new one, make sure you sand the paint off of where your grounding it to, if you dont the ground will not work well and the paint will end up burning. Let us know if that solves the problem.
  10. Try popping the covers off in the rear deck. I think the mounting screws are located under them. The wiring can be accessed thru the trunk. Do not try popping the grilles off of the rear deck as you will ruin them and your deck. You have to take out the back seat, then take the rear deck off as a whole. You can access your speakers this way, not through the trunk. You can see your speakers from the trunk, they resonate through the trunk slightly but you can only dissconnect the speaker wires through here as the bikeman says. Unfortunately speaker grilles in most cars are not held in by screws, its usually some sort of rivet-like method in the back. Attacking from the trunk is unnecessary. I just wrote another response on how to take the rear seat out in a prizm. This same basic method should work in any car. good luck
  11. For the front, yes you have to take the door pannel off. If you have a hand crank window setup you will need a medium sized window handle remover. Simple install, watch out for the window handle pin, it will fly away if your not careful its spring loaded, but you can buy them at autozone/cap/advanced. The rears... You need to remove the back seat unfortunately. On every car i've had, this is the same case so i dont know about relacing the speakers from the trunk. If you choose to attach them through the trunk they will rattle with every bump and eventually work themselves out of the setup, its better for them to sit on the rear deck than hang. The bottom of the seat pops out first, push the bottom of the seat toward the back of the car and you should be able to unhinge/pop it up, then once its all loose it comes right out. The top requires 3 12mm bolts I believe that hold it down at the bottom. The top of the top just hooks onto the car and holds the rear deck in. Once youve removed the seats, you just need to slide the rear deck foreward, its easy it will have to flex to get it out of place so you can access the speakers. Hope that helps -If you are using speakers with adjustable angle tweeters, make sure you adjust these prior to reassembling the interior.
  12. I have used Silverstar and Silverstar Ultra bulbs. Silverstar is the brightest i have seen for a hallogen. Silverstar ultra is not nearly as bright as the original for some reason. The bulb is painted blue, more so than its predecessor. Take my advice and avoid these. They may last longer than silverstars, but they are unsafe in comparison. HID kits are expensive, they blind other drivers because they aren't properly engineered like factory HID lamps, and they will void your warranty. HIDs are more than bulbs, they are a ballast system and wiring. It requires a lot more juice to run. If you install them on a Corolla, you'll get pulled over time and time again because no police officer is going to believe a Corolla has HIDs as a factory feature. We have enough trouble with that on a Mazda3. They are factory on that car, and people have to pull out their window sticker to prove it to a police officer to avoid a ticket. Thats strange that you would get pulled over so frequently. I had fake HID bulbs(NOKYA Brand) in my 95 dodge neon and not a single cop bothered me for that, even late at night. Now, if you were to use an HID kit in a corolla, the stock headlights will not do, at least on the 7th gen. You may notice that projector headlight kits project a flat line of light, this is how most quality headlight housings work today, even some non projector. The corolla probably dosent do this, at least on mine. You would not blind anybody if you had a headlight setup like this and as long as you use a hyper white bulb color you should be fine. When the bulb is blue or purple it attracts cops easily. The power is not an issue since the ballast is designed to handle this. To ignite a xenon bulb it requires about 22,000 volts, the ballast retains a charge and empties it into the bulbs, then once ignited the xenon bulbs only require 35 watts to stay on.
  13. Snow 2.0

    I had a terrible time with the snow tonight. I have had about 4 cars, the corolla being my favorite, but somehow its worse than all other cars ive ever driven in the snow, including rear wheel drive cars, I dont understand it. I love the car, but it surprises me when conditions are less than pleasing.
  14. Is this a difficult project? How long should it take if someone were to guess?
  15. Fish, What exactly do you mean by "settle" Im familiar with coil over kits, wheel camber and lowering cars in a few different ways. I have 17 inch wheels that i plan on lowering the 7th gen with, just enough so part of the tire is hiding behind the well. Does this mean the camber will adjust itself slightly when lowering is not done? If so, wouldnt that potentially cause my setup to rub?
  16. I would deffinately recomend a strut tower brace even though I do not have one yet. Friends have put them on and loved them. But I would not spend that much for a strut tower brace, I believe megan racing makes one for less than 20 dollars and it looks fine, they will all do the same thing for the most part. I plan on getting one once its warm out again.
  17. Does anybody have any advice on cleaning out the throttle body on my 4a motor? It is burning up more oil than I believe it should and I have heard that cleaning the pcv valve and throttle body out usually solve this. Also hoping for minimal performance gains from this.
  18. Does the emission content change due to timing advancement? I read somewhere that timing may have to be retarded to pass emission on some cars. Im not sure about the corolla, but when i get it inspected again i plan on knocking it back to 10 to prevent any potential issues. Since my a/c leaks, i removed my a/c belt and would guess i got about 10hp. I'd recomend doing this if looking for more power, its more responsive also. The belt was just robbing power for no reason.
  19. If there is glue to cut through, it is not bolted through. If it is, I would be very surprised.
  20. Dental floss had not worked in my situations. I ended up using 14lb test fishing line and sawing the emblems off. I heated it up with a hair dryer and went at it with the line. Very simple, you may end up cleaning the excess glue off with a fingernail and wiping it off with your thumb. Just make sure you do this carefully and have some wax for where the sticker was. I do this on all of my cars, especially with dealership badges, because no one needs to know where the car came from. The Center emblem in the trunk is bolted through the metal, this is the only one I left on my corolla. It may be different on yours, seeing as mine is a 95, but every toyota I've seen in the junkyards is the same way.
  21. By far, my favorite thing about the corolla is the fact that the steering wheel will not rattle. Most other cars I have had the wheel will rattle somewhere between 55-75 and only gets worse from there.
  22. I have used a few different waxes here. My favorite wax was the Meguiars gold class paste wax, made the car bling. I use that in the summer its very shiny, but it only seems to last about 2 weeks so I am re-applying it often. Right before fall this year a friend from a car club recomended Nu-Finish and told me that all of his car club buddies use it. So i gave it a try, I used 2 coats of Nu-Finish (You can use it in direct sunlight) and went back and added a third coat to all of the edges and the front of the car. It looked almost as good as the mequiars wax and deffinately held up better. I put the Nu-Finish on in august and the water still beads. Granted, the beads are getting bigger, but I would recomend using this prior to winter time for anyone, it's holding up great. This is my front left fender some time in the begining of December https://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i41/doct...a/Nu-Finish.jpg
  23. Mine did not ping at 15 degrees, I'm just running 89 because I decided to leave timing here. It runs better with the 89 at 15 degrees, but you can try 15 degrees without it, shouldnt be a problem. I wouldnt recomend leaving it at 15 with 87, but go for a ride, it makes a difference. 93 seems to be over kill and since it has a higher resistance to burning than 89 or 87 I've heard that you end up dumping fuel into the exhaust so 93 is not necessary for the 4afe and I would assume the 7afe.
  24. You dont need to run super, 89 works fine with 15 degrees. I think its worth it, You might as well try it yourself and see. You can always put it back to 10.