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About hackish

  1. Normally there is a transmission controller (TCU) that controls the upshifts and downshifts. Different years will quite likely shift differently. Also the TCU and ECU normally cooperate where the ECU will pull timing during an upshift resulting in a drop in power and smoother shift. I don't do a lot of work on autos but I do know on supras everything including the line pressures are controlled by the computer. -Michael
  2. Removing the cat(s) is seldom a great idea. I've yet to see any modern NA car make significant gains from deleting the cat. Modern ECUs detect the lack of a cat and throw a CEL - iften pulling timing and dumping extra fuel. Often they will make less power on the dyno with no cat. If you replace the entire system and use one with a high-flow then you will see some gains. From tuning and minor bolt-ons like CAI and full exhaust it's rare to see more than 15hp gained. -Michael
  3. If you're planning to go boosted then don't waste money on an aluminum crank pulley. Most engines need the factory damping and with boost the harmonics on the crank are greatly exagerated. I've seen more than one 300+hp honda engine explode an oil pump from this. At stock power levels the harmonics are usually manageable but as soon as you start making significant gains you run into problems.
  4. I built one for my GF's car just before I left for Christmas. I tried it out and I think it may have made a small difference in power. Mine was a 2.25-2.5" transition on a 90 degree mandrel bend with a 2.5"-3" transition TIG welded on that with a K&N attached. It was mostly made from spare stuff I had laying around the shop. Looking at the stock airbox affair I don't think it's a significant restriction. If I had to guess I'd say 5-10bhp max. I don't have a lot of experience with this powerplant but the intake manifold looks pretty good for an econobox engine. I'd have to see the head and exhaust manifold to give opinions on those. Maybe someday I'll get one of those heads on the flowbench but other toyota heads I've done flowed pretty well from the factory. -Michael
  5. Boost

    If the guy knew what he was doing then he would be choosing a proper sized turbo. As it is you've got a proposed setup with apparently no engine management. That alone should send some red flags up the pole. The setup is being done for 100% free? I've been in this business for a lot of years. On occasions I've even been flown places to tune cars. I've never heard of anyone experienced doing a turbo setup for free. If the turbo is small enough that you'll be making full boost at 1500 then you will quickly reach a critical point where the exhaust backpressure goes up exponentially but the boost going in does not. I think you will find that bad things will happen shortly after that and they won't just be your manifold glowing a nice red colour. If the guy is an expert then ask him for a compressor map so you can post it and those who work with turbos can see if it's going to be a good choice for your car.
  6. Boost

    Wow. If you're hitting full boost by 1500 RPM then the turbo will be so undersized that you will be lucky to make more than stock power at high RPMs. Just make sure it's using an external wastegate. Also, the lower RPMs and boost are the areas where a stock tune is most likely to result in detonation. You could use a fuel pressure regulator to supply the extra fuel (that's very ghetto) and for the timing you could use something like an MSD boost retard. Or figure out how to hook up a greddy e-manage ultimate. I've tuned a few of those with good enough results. Someone approached me about turboing their corolla a few years back and I did determine that the trigger is compatible with many standalones. I think megasquirt works with it so you could do that. Just make sure the tuner knows what he's doing! Personally I think you should look into a proper sized turbo like the T25 someone mentioned. It will be a lot more fun than just making a hissing noise.
  7. May I suggest some driver training. BMW for example puts on their advanced driver training courses and they're very good. They're not cheap but will be by far the best mod you could do with your car. You can also find books and info for free on the net. If you've ever watched touring cars you will notice that they have really short gearboxes and if this were a huge problem in racing then it would be a problem for you too. Slow down, get into the corner and accelerate out past the apex. Normally you'd be downshifting under braking so when you get on the gas you can do it smoothly and will be in the "power band" of your engine. Since the acceleration starts as you pass the apex there is really no problem upshifting as your trajectory straightens. If your engine produces 120-130bhp between 4400-5700 then what's the point in spinning it up from 5700-7000 where it will make from 130-80bhp? Acceleration is greatest where the average power output of the engine is greatest so keep it between those revs.

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