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Everything posted by K_Watson

  1. Very hard to tell what it is on that video AND the 1.4 4ZZ is a different motor with different sounds than the 1.8 1ZZ The 1zz is a very noisy engine, and will have valve noise that is not harmful but will also have rod knock if the oil is neglected. The 1ZZ has an issue where the rubber belt tensioner bushing fails at the hydraulic tensioner and it will rattle under light throttle, but then the mounting bolt can break when you try and change it. I was fortunate mine did not. The Prizms have an issue the Corollas will not in that the clutch plate on the A/C compressor warps and rubs against the pulley and it sounds like a bad bearing. it makes a continuous or fast cadence metallic scratching sound.
  2. I just finished a day project of swapping the 4 note horns off of a 1992 Cadillac Sedan Deville into my 2012 Corolla S. No drilling or electrical modifications were necessary to make this work; the factory horn was removed, a custom mount built, horns wired, and the factory horn pigtail plugged directly into the trigger side of a standard relay. The horns are mostly hidden behind the crash bar and condenser, the bumper hides the rest. Pictures of the horns and mount will come after I take them off for paint. I don't have a video of before; go outside and honk your own horn if you want to hear that awful noise. Here is the after...
  3. Depends on how and where you drive. 5 miles stop and go straight across town?... No. 15 miles from the burbs to downtown?... Not unless you have a lot of exit ramps. 35 miles across 1/2 a county on winding, rolling, or rough country roads into the next town?... Yes.
  4. So far the car is great, so much quieter, too quiet really. The sound of the old 1ZZFE turning ~3300 RPM on the highway was somewhat musical and soothing. The engine is butter smooth at idle, you almost could compare it to my Wife's 1MZ V6. The speakers SUCK. One is possibly blown, but I planned to replace them anyway. The Entune navigation is good but a bit confusing to figure out. The option to end navigation session is buried within the menus. Bluetooth integration is good, music sounds clear, but the call sound quality is a little grainy with some high pitched noise in voices. The car absorbs bumps really well, and electric steering feedback is decent but not great. Most of all the biggest annoyance me entire car is the lack of automatic headlights that even my base model Prizm had standard.
  5. The 2012 Corolla S is in our garage. :-)
  6. Financing approved, test driven, trade in accepted, decicion made. The 2012 Corolla S will me my new ride next Wednsday. The Prizm had a good run; 9 years and 53600 miles together.
  7. I am very seriously considering a one owner 2012 Corolla S with 34,000 miles and a clean CARFAX at a trusted local used dealer I have had business dealing with for years. The story is the dealer that the owner orginally bought the car from, and where he/she later traded it back into, probably auctioned it because he was a smoker. My dealer detailed it, changed the oil and cabin filter, and parked it on the lot. It smells fine and has no evidence of smoker damage. I have personally checked over the car and can find no current damage, cosmetic, or mechanical issues, and only some nearly perfect repaint on the front drivers corner, all VIN tag stickers, plastic fasteners, and painted bolts are undisturbed, so it was very minor whatever it was. It's the S model with touchscreen bluetooth, moonroof, spoiler, and black cloth interior. What issues do the 2012's have?
  8. If your 2003 VVT-i version of the 1ZZ-FE is anything like my 1998 non VVT-i 1ZZ-FE, which they are likely the same, it has solid lifters and caps. To adjust the valves, you must measure the existing clearances, order the requisite number of caps of the correct height to bring clearances into spec, pull the cams, and replace them one at a time. It's a ROYAL P.I.T.A.
  9. I really want a better safer car, but I really like my paid off, simple, reliable Prizm, and thats my dilemma. I am looking at a 2007 to 2009 Subaru impreza or Legacy sedan. More power, more comfort, more airbags, more bad weather traction, but more money... The Prizm is long ago paid off, reliable, has great tires, brakes, paint, and glass, and still looks good from a distance... but 1. Tie rods are rust seized and cannot be alligned 2. Rack and pinion has play ($700 estimated replacement) 3. Rotational noise up front (CV's I think) 4. The engine has minor knocking or badly tapping valve 5. It burns more oil than ever 6. Compression is questionable as while idle is smooth as ever, power is lacking more every year 7. This happens.... 8. Rust is really starting to get a hold of it (3 inch hole behind rear right door, soon to have matching on driver, passenger front door skin is starting to rust off at the bottom) 9. The head liner is starting to fall, the 3 door handles I have are all different colors, the door vinyl and cloth pads are coming unglued 10. It's been hit in the rear and while it was "fixed" it's not quite right and I worry about getting hit again 11. The airbags it does have are now 17 years old and my driver's seat belt is starting to fray 12. The exhaust leaks off and on somewhere near the manifold 13. It's throwing P0420 (Catalyst Efficiancy Below Threshold) every winter but any new cats will get killed by oil soot It's 17 years old and worth less than the combined estimated cost of the repairs. ... .. . Time to let it go?
  10. It did it again the other day first time since march, sat overnight, had zero issues the day before, and no issues since. I remember now this is at least the 4th time this has happened, in the same number of years... the first time I can pin down was in August 2011 after a week of sitting while we were on vacation, the second after just two days of sitting, but this car will sit for 24+ hours regularly if I'm off work and stay home and sometimes all weekend if we drive my wife's car... third described above and fourth below. Thursday night, I put the car on a battery charger because the temps were about to drop later in the week and wanted peak power, it charged for an hour and then went to maintain mode, later went to bed. Friday morning, I removed the charger, cranked it, it sounded like compression on only one cylinder, then another until it fired and missed for a few seconds until I revved it and they all started catching... Since I did not catch it on video, all i can say is it went like this... Drove it the normal 1 1/2 miles home from work (it was outside in 30 something degrees F), parked it in garage, went to bed, next morning temp gauge said 46 or so in garage... Whir = that dreaded no compression, freely moving piston sound... you know it if you've heard it. chug = compression bump miss = shake fire = cylinder firing Whir whir whir chug whir whir whir chug, whir whir whir chug, stop. whir whir whir chug, whir whir whir chug, whir whir whir chug, whir whir chug chug, whir whir whir chug, whir whir chug fire, whir whir chug fire, miss miss fire fire, miss miss fire fire, miss miss fire fire, miss miss fire fire, rev a little missing horrible, rev to 2000 missing smoothed, drop to high idle... ran fine, drove to work. Drove the car 4 times that day (1 1/2 mi each work to home and vice-versa), 6+ times yesterday (home to work to home to work to store to home), and 4 times today which twice was in snow (home to work to home to work in flurries and home in snow), zero issues, runs smooth, no unusual noises for my car, plenty of power, no CEL. Battery... Good, fully charged night before. charger / maintainer WAS NOT on the other times this has happened, and not likely the cause. This issue also has never occurred after disconnecting or changing the battery. Battery likely not the cause. Timing... runs great, good power. Fuel... BP regular half tank. Likely not the cause. Oil... level is 1/2 qt low 2000 mile into normal 3000 mile change with Castrol / Mobil / Valvoline (I forget which) 5w30 synthetic with a qt of store brand syn. mixed in due to consumption. Noises... I work with peoples cars daily and my car sounds no different starting, running or idling, than any other 98-02 1zzfe except at these times that it loses it's mind. Temperature... was in garage ~45 degrees F... The car had been outside this week in 20's 30's @ 40's and in garage which has stayed around 45-55, it has started normal every other time. It started slow but fine this Feb. when it was -12 and it will be +10 tomorrow and it will probably start then too. Does not appear to be the cause. Sitting time... ~12 hours... normal overnight sitting time... should not be cause. I'm baffled because if it was time sitting or temperature related, bad compression, or bad rings, or whatever, this should happen every time I let it sit for a day or two and certainly more than once every 8 months... Any other car, I'd suspect lifters are losing prime, but the 1zzfe has solid lifters... Fish?
  11. 1998 Prizm Has been making this noise for a while... not sure how long, but a few years at least, doesn't get better, or worse... but sounds worse when engine cold, awful when ambient temperature is under 50 and engine is cold, and lasts until it gets warm. Rod knock, or normal 1zz-fe noise? @ 18 seconds is loudest... engine hot, recent name brand synthetic oil change w/ Bosch filter @ correct level, in drive, brake on
  12. Mine died at 110,000. The solenoid was used up and you had to turn the key a few times before it would find a good spot and come to life. I needed it fixed to get to work reliably so I bought a reman from work vs rebuilding it.
  13. The bolt you have is 1/2 centimeter (5 mm) shorter than the one you found listed on the net. That's not a lot, but may make a difference.
  14. M12 x 1.25 x 35 CL 8.8 means... M12 is a 12mm wide bolt x1.25 is 1.25mm between the threads x 35 is 35mm long between the end of the threads and the base of the head Class 8.8 hardness
  15. Yep... I'll do a compression test Monday or Tuesday.
  16. 1998 Prizm 3 speed auto 129,000 mi Car drives fine 99% of the time... but for the last few years, yes years... if it sits for more than a few days without being driven or at least started, when I start it up, it sounds like and feels like some or all of the cylinders have no compression. If no compression, I crank it longer and it starts... (this has only happened once)... or if it has partial compression loss and starts, it shakes bad but I let it idle for a minute, and everything returns to normal. Would stuck rings cause this? Oil info... Synthetic 5w30 (Mobil 1 or Castrol or Valvoline depending on sale) since 100,000 mi Burns 1.5 qt per 3000 mi when mostly city / some short highway (normally add a 1/2 every 1000) Highway... Burns 1/3 qt per hour @ 70 Burns 1/2 qt per hour @ 80 mph (3900 rpm)
  17. Since you were moving it should be covered under your full coverage insurance. (I assume you have full coverage on a 2013) ...but don't claim unless its over $1000 or else the deductible + rate increase makes it not worth claiming
  18. You should remove the speedo/ODO unit from your old cluster and put it in the Corolla cluster... RIGHT NOW. The ODO mileages are likely not the same that is very illegal if it is less miles on the new one and you try to say it has the new lower mileage, or don't mention it at re-sale time... that is called odometer tampering and it's a FEDERAL FELONY. If it is more miles, it may not be a big deal, but it will at least hurt the value of your car at resale as the mileage will not be "actual". There is no reason to risk it, the speedo/ODO's are a direct swap, I know, as I did it on my 98 Prizm, keeping my original Speedo/ODO. THE LAW... "Altering the mileage reading on a motor vehicle is a felony." Tampering prohibition: 49 U.S.C. § 32703(2). False odometer statement prohibition: 49 U.S.C. § 32705(a)(2). Odometer fraud conspiracy prohibition: 49 U.S.C. § 32703(4). Criminal penalty provision: 49 U.S.C. § 32709(b
  19. Fish... My mechanic solved it this time... I hope. I drove the car and idled at his shop (about 1/2 hour total) with heater, defroster, and the sound system running and the harness would not even get warm until the low beam headlights were turned on. DRL's alone did not heat it up enough to notice. He traced the one wire that was getting burned and it turned out to be the ground wire out of ground junction to the body. He removed the blue cap from the junction, cut off the blue casing off and removed the metal junction piece and soldered a 12 gauge wire to the bare metal strip, grounded it, and plugged it back in. He then cut the burned wire off the harness. The junction now stays cold and the car is back to normal operation. I checked several other wiring masses and found no warm wires. I DID FIND on a 2002 Corolla at the salvage yard, with a very different harness in place of the one found on earlier vehicles. this one had the insulation stripped back and the bare wires fused together by compression and heat until they made a solid block, that block was capped by a rubber dome and tapped with yellow electrical tape identical to the kind used on Toyota air bag systems. It seems like a last minute design modification at the factory because I know no mechanic with a device to make that kind of junction with the wires still in the vehicle
  20. Cool, but with a tape deck you can use an adapter to play a cell phone or MP3 player/ipod through the car.
  21. Update. A mechanic friend cut up the harness known as either "J8" or "ID" and wired in a salvage harness and I was back on the road again... Until today. The problem is returning. The "new" harness is getting hot and the car will quit if it is disturbed. What is the usual cause of this to getting so hot and burning up?