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About Cherry128

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  • Birthday 04/01/1978
  1. See other posts... It's rated for 1500lbs. 1000lbs is perfectly fine in all conditions. As with any trailer, make sure you have at least 10% tongue weight. The rear suspension is fine even with 1500lbs. On a modern car modifying the rear suspension for towing is idiotic... this isn't a 1980 Chevy Caprice. You can purchase a bolt on Class I hitch for aroun $80-100. A wiring kit can be found at any hardware store, Walmart or AutoZone for around $20. The wiring is pretty straight forward... easier with a voltmeter to identify the wires. As a novice DIY... figure 1 hour to install the hitch... 1 hour for the wiring. Remember 3 additonal adults and luggage can easily weigh 700+ lbs, so 1 person and a 1000lbs trailer is not that far off.
  2. The reasonable limit is 1000lbs IMO. Beyond that, it's a real workout for the engine and brakes. The clutch was never a problem if you drive smart... don't ride or slip the clutch. I once towed about 1500lbs (Toyota recommended limit) and it was fine until I got to any uphill grades on the freeway, then 4th was needed for even 70mph. I used a simple wiring kit on my corolla. I installed a more advanced kit on my Accord which uses a seperate power source for the trailer. I tied it into the aux. power circuit (cig lighter, etc). The lights seem a little brighter with this set-up. My Accord 2.4L 4 cylinder tows easier, but I still wouldn't tow over 1000lbs, and it's an automatic, so I have to pay attention and downshift out of O/D if the torque converter is staying unlocked up a incline to avoid overheating the tranny. The new 5 speed automatic on this car howver seems pretty good about staying locking up. I think you could tow 1000lbs fine also with a Corolla automatic, but you again would need ot pay attention ot the RPM's. IF hte torque converter stays unlocked, you should turn off O/D. Toyota trannies always seemed very ready ot unlock the torque converter. It was a problem on my parent's 2.2L '92 Camry that they used to tow a 1500lb (loaded) pop-up camper with. ON a side note... the '92 Camry easily out pulled the 1989 3.8L V6 Taurus wagon my parents had before that. "The recall machine" is the last American car my parents will ever own. It was a true F.O.R.D. (Fix Or Repair Daily). The tranny on that car couldn't handle it's own weight more or less a trailer. Bottom line, it depends on the overall set-up of the car. I had good results pulling 1000lbs with a '91 Toyota Tercel. It had a torquey motor, short gearing and a bullet proof engine and tranny. The brakes however made it fee like a locomotive... you work hard to build up head of steam and watch out... because she ain't stopping for nothing.
  3. Why ar teh tires such a big deal. IF it matters so much, if you buy from a dealer have them swap the tires as a part of the sale. 185's will fit on a rim with 175's. Otherwise, tires only cost $300-400 a set. I don't understand how you'd consider swapping a tranny, yet not consider getting new tires. Besdes, many dealers put junk tires on used cars when they are reconditioning them for resale. Sometimes they don't even match.
  4. Sorry to hear about your story. That's really amazing. I would definitely write down the names of everyone involved and the whole story with dates and facts on paper. Keep it very professional and send it to Toyota Corporate customer service. If you don't get a response in 4 weeks. Send a copy to 3 or 4 TV stations and see if they are interested in the story. Whne I lived in Detroit they used to have a segment on stories like this. Occasionally programs like 20/20 will take this type of thing and combine it wiht 2 or 3 other people that have been screwed on a warranty issue. Might be some nice revenge. What car to get, depends a lot on your price range. I've moved over to the Honda camp, but I still think this forum is interesting and I like Toyotas too. The great thing about Accords is that they are feel fairly sporty for a midsized sedan, and have smooth motors and nice gearboxes. They have better suspension systems that Toyotas but at the price of less interior and trunk space. I'm very happy with mine. The 4 cylinder is adequate but if you afford spending about $25,000 you can get a V6 with a 6 speed manual in the sedan or coupe. If your on the budget however, a Accord LX with a 4 cylinder and 5 speed manual is a great buy has a better power weight ratio than the Corolla, and is a much better freeway vehicle. But you will find that the Corolla takes big bumps and potholes better, and is more nimble in tight traffic. The Accord also has the best feeling brakes IMO of any car I've driven to date. I alos test drove a Civic and was very impressed. Just as quiet smooth and stable as my Accord, but a little more buzzy on the freeway. The corolla has a little more midrange power, but the refinement on the Civic is leaps and bounds ahead of the Corolla. If you buy 2 cars together and tell your story to a Honda dealer, you might find that they cut you a good deal. I've also found Honda Dealer service to be much better. Other cars to consider: Acura RSX Volkswagen Jetta Nissan Altima Mazda 6 Ford Fusion Chevy Malibu (take a quick test drive to remind yousrself why you buy foreign) Does Chrysler even have a midsized car anymore? The americna auto industry is such a sad state of affairs. The recent Ford commercial makes me feel like they are begging the audience to buy their cars and invest in their stock out of pity. "please please buy our cars so we don't go bankrupt...we're trying really hard ot make a descent car... look. look we bought Volvo... so now all Fords have Euro design"
  5. If your RPM sensor (crankshaft position sensor) was failing, your computer would lose sync and shut down. If your TPS was failing, you would stall because the IAC valve would never be turned on to compensate for the fact that you have taken your foot off the gas pedal. I did have a fuel injected motorcycle that would not rev above 10,000RPM. I sold it for parts and never did solve hte problem, but to this day I think there was some issue with the cam position sensor or srank speed sensor (I don't like to call it a crank positon sensor because it's just a halofect sensor... there is no "home" position.) It ran fine other than at high RPM. I've also disconnected the throttle positon sensor before and the bike would idle because the throttle does not completely close on that particular throttle body, it's adjusted by a set screw. I suspect the Corolla is the same way. But it definitely4 would not be driveable, so I agree this is not the source. I was just listing every remote possibility. I think this issue should be covered under warranty because it was originally documented while it was still under teh mileage limit and has not yet been resolved. This is not a new problem, only one that thye have been unable to fix for several thousand miles. Acutally if they try a certain nubmer of timesot fix the same problem and cannot resolve it, they might even be foreced to buy back the car in some states. This is my opinon anyway.
  6. When the problem is happening, does pushing on the pedal and reving the engine make it stop? What happens if you start driving it? Does it stop if you push in the clutch? If you turn off the engine and start it bakc up again right away, does it still do it the seocnd time? Like I said before, check vaccum lines and all of the emissions control stuff.
  7. Most stores I've been to appear to be privately owned. I've never been impressed by the service. They don't carry air filters for my '04 Accord (second best selling car in the US) But that could be because I live in Iowa where it's barely in the top 10 and most owners go to the dealer.
  8. I can almost guarantee that if you change the A/F ration even teh slightest, it will no longer meet the tight emissions standards. TRD designed the ECU program to match to supercharger with the specifed intake to meet emissions standards. If the engine is runing too rch or lean you can destroy the very expensive catalytic converter.
  9. It's not even harder... there was talk about that on TV about a year ago; it can be done in 15 minutes for somewhere around 100$ (maybe less, don't recall for sure). An expert who inspected the car afterwards said it was undetectable even if he looked for it. That might not be true for all cars but it was certainly the case of several newer cars they showed on the show. I think the electronic odometers use a simple electronic counter that recieves an input (pulse) from the ECU indicating that a given distance has been traveled. A small chip will store the number of counts as a binary code. If you can reprogram or replace that memory chip... the displayed number will change. There's a lot of speculation here, but this is how I'd expect them to work. They are definitely not directly tied to the ECU.
  10. unless it seems like it takes a long time to start the engine, I'd say it's normal. I always smell a litlte bit on most every car I've owned. My motorcycles were much worse about this... especially the carbeurated one I have now. Very cold blooded. It takes a little extra TLC to coax it to start up when it's been sitting a while.
  11. Most manauls recommend approx. 10 seconds or enough time for the idle to settle from the initial start sequence. They recommend against idling for long periods. Oil pumps are positive diplacement. After only a few dozen RPM, the oil has reaches every part of the engine and is at full pressure. ( watch a car that has a oil pressure gague sometime). Engine coolant is not needed AT ALL for at least the first 20-30 seconds. It takes that much time to heat up the cylinder liner and engine block. Modern engines have few hot spots and are designed to run hotter for better effeciency and emissions. Personally, I give my '04 Accord about 5 seconds before I back out of my garage. I've doen this for the last 2 years. I have a very short 2 miles commute to work. I estimate that in 25,000 miles, it's been started over 2000 times and never allowed to warmup more than 10-15 seconds. I have no problems with the car. On the flip side, I allowed my '91 Tercel to warm-up for over 5 minuts in the winter when I lived in Michigan because it was parked outside, took forever to warm-up and I needed that long to clear the frost inside the car. Not suprisingly the exhaust rusted out after 6 years. The drivetrain istself was bullet proof. Nothing could kill that car. I was a teenage, trust me, I tried. I drove for 2 years with a CEL. The car ran fine and it wasn't worth fixing on $2000 basic tranportation. I suspect Toyota is sourcing cheap ECU's and possible cheap electric throttle bodies.
  12. Couple observations form the video. 1) The behavior is very specific and consistent. Thsi si good, erratic behavior is harder to diagnose. 2) The idle is controlled by a electronic throttle. The intake air temperature, engine coolant temperature, the manifold aboslute pressure sensor (not 100% sure if this is used for idle), halofect sensor (engine RPM), throttle position sensor. 3) You said the problem goes away when it's warmed up. So that isolates the problem to the portion of the program in the ECU that controls cold startup operation. There's no check engine light, so it's not a short circuit in a sensor. Whatever the problem is, the sensors appear to the ECU to be operating normally. Here's the problem as I see it. A) The idle starts to "run away". the idle hits approx. 2500 RPM and the throttle suddenly shuts and the idle drops back to 1800RPM (correct idle speed for a cold engine) C) THIS IS NOT NORMAL. THe dealre wants ot sweep this under the rug. Off hand I'd say your engiens gets stuck in a faulty "control loop" in the ECU. The idle speed can increase normally to 2500 in extremely cold weather. It also could increase if the RPM sensor was malfunctioning or if the throttle position sensor was manfunctioning. I had this happen on a 1991 Toyota Tercel around 1995 with about the same number of miles on it. IF my memoery is good, the problem was related to a vacuum line that was leaking or loose. The difference is that in 1991, the throttle was not electronic. The idle speed was adjusted with a set screw on the throttle. The auto/choke unit I believe was vacuum controlled. 1- Rule out any air leaks in the throttle body. 2 have all vacuum lines checked. 3 - check those funky solinoids and valves on the emissions control system (EGR valve, evap system) I not too familiar but I know that can cause issues 4 - Replace the ECU. 5 - Call or e-mail CARTALK RADIO. Those 2 MIT guys know everything!!!
  13. Yes, that can definitely get confusing. It can take several months for car to get from the factory to the showroom. Manufacturers also regularly release the next years model in the summer of the previous year. It really stupid and has everything to do with sales and marketing tactics. I beleive it's possible for example to have a '06 that was physically produced in December '04 and in the showroom in July of '05. This is rare however because of taxes, inventory costs and so forth. I think also the fiscal year may end in July for automakers. I'm not a tax lawyer or accountant... so I'll stop there. I think it started sometiems aroudn the 1950's as the Big Three kept trying to 1-up the other each Fall as new models were released. They kept releasign the cars earlier and earlier trying ro boost 4th quarter sales.
  14. If the timing belt needs replacing it's also possible that it needs the timing adjusted. If the timing is off a little, it could be causing it ot idle a little lower, higher and/or rougher than usual. A simple tune-up can smooth out a engine greatly. However, I think the vibration your feeling is just a resonance in the engine mounts. Most cars have a particular RPM betwwen 500-1000 that makes the chassis vibrate. In my '04 Accord it's aroudn 900RPM, so when the engine is still cold, it's idling high and vibrates when in "Drive". IF I put it in neutral, it goes away. When the car is in "Drive" the transmission puts a load on the engine. THis puts more energy into the engine mounts which will cause the chassis to vibrate. The noise associated with it is probably a body panel or other part that also resonates at the same frequency as the idle speed in gear. Does that make sense. It's hard to explain how resonant frequencies work. It's the same principal that a guitar uses to makes sound. A string that is shorter, thinner or tighter, will vibrate at a higher frequency. A car that has a stiffer chassis will vibrate also at a higher frequency. In reality a chassis may vibrate at multiple frequencies. The first is usually around 40-80Hz. The second is 500-1000Hz. The third is 3000-5000Hz. This is why the car will vibrate at a certain engine RPM on the freeway. You may have noticed that airplanes will do the same thing when the turbine is at a certian RPM. It's more noticable on properller driven aircraft.
  15. Yes, the flyash in concrete comes from the burning of coal. Coal has naturally occuring trace minerals that are low level radioactive sources. Overall the dosage from exposure to normal concrete is not significantly more than other common naturally occuring sources. Also, living near a coal fire pwoer plant does not substantally increase your overall dosage. Most radiation exposure is from medical X-rays and natural radon gas leaching up throug hthe soil. Radon gas is from the decay of Uranium and other radioactive sources dee pin the earth. Check out the link below. Wow... I'm on a roll with Google searches. SOrry... this post can go back on topic now You can thank the Romans or the Greeks... but most meatals end in "um" i.e. sodium, potassium, aluminum, magnesium, platinum... it goes on and on. The other names of metal were more commonly occuring in ancient times and there are english words for them.