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About doubletrouble

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  1. Corolla starters, especially the older nippondenso ones , would go about 100,000-200000+ miles before i would have to change the contacts . $4 worth of parts and i would get another 100,000 miles or more. I did this on 2 cars and never replaced a whole starter. My OEM one had about 215000 on it before i worked on it the first time. My point is to NEVER buy a rebuilt starter. Bite the $400 bullit and buy an OEM new unit if you are keeping the car 3+ years..
  2. Hey fish , I looked all over the net and could not find a prizm tutorial . That is why i wrote it up myself. I was done , including getting tools out and putting them away , in 30 minutes. Finding the correct 5.5mm (7/32) socket took longer than the rest of the job. Hopefully it will make it easier for someone else.
  3. It turns out that when your blower motor will only go on high , it is a matter of 20 minutes to replace the blower resistor .If you have the flat style plug , there are several inexpensive replacements. I found one from ebay which is a standard products RU379. it is a part made for a pontiac vibe. It fits perfectly and works great. I found one for $17 shipped. Here is a quick guide.. For safety, a 10MM will disconnect the negative battery cable. Better safe that sitting with a blown airbag in your face. Removal of the blower motor itself is only 3 more screws and a harness. 1) remove the passenger plastic door sill by popping the 3 clips 2) remove the right kick panel with the hand tight knob fastener. 3) Remove the 2 10MM bolts that hold the lower glove box on 4) remove the 3 philips screws on the inside of the glove box that hold the box on. 5) slide the glove box over the latch catch. 6) Look up from under the dash and unplug the wire harness fom the resistor. 7) remove the 2- 5.5MM screws that hold the resister in.. 8) Screw the resistor in and hook up the harness. 9)Put the negative cable on and test... 10) Success Here are pictures of the old part. On the other side there are burned spots on the printed board Corollas take a different rectangular plug , but the procedure is very similar.
  4. Michelin's or Falkens are the best for corolla's. Hankook optimo's aren't a bad choice either. continental conti-pro's are very quiet. cooper cs-4's are a great combination of good qualities too. Stay clear of any tire with year or stone in the name.
  5. Just buy a set of sway bar links off ebay . Less than $10 for the pair. They need replacing anyway and having replaced many sets on corolla's and other cars it is most likely your problem . While you are at it , buy or borrow a 4.5 inch high speed grinder and metal cut off wheels from harbor freight. You can cut the old sway bar links off in 10 minutes. Trying to unbolt them is next to impossible. It turns the whole job into less than an hour.
  6. Fish, I am ticked off. I was losing a little brake fluid. I thought it was my caliper install because I do not crank the line connections . Of course the rear brake line was leaking and blew on my way to the post office. Limped it home to my garage. Just ordered lines , nuts , and fluid. Did this one before on the 93 so at least I know the procedure and have a double flare set. Also , played with my dash lights that are out. Now i find that the horn is out too. Left turn signal is clicking fast... All the fuses are good. Any ideas? At least its spring and I don't have to do this in freezing weather. Thanks
  7. It really idles about 650. I suspected a bad downstream sensor , but won't replace it until the code comes back . I want to do some more B-G injector and throttle body cleaning, and get some mileage readings so I know the car is running good before I start throwing needless parts at it..
  8. I scanned the check engine light again .This time with a friends scanner / android phone. It came up po420. It could be anything from an exhaust leak to a dirty IAC. I took out the MAF sensor and sprayed it with MAF cleaner. I pulled the air filter hose and sprayed some old gumout I had lying around into the throttle body and IAC hole. The butterfly was pretty carboned up. If the light comes on again , I will remove the IAC and clean it the right way. The car had a slight idle variation and engine vibration at low (600 ) rpms . It did seem to get better after I cleaned it . Most people would call it normal. I know better. You see very few LSI prizm's . If you buy an economy car , you usually got the base model. The rims were part of the package. Its nice having power locks, cruise , tilt, sunroof. I have had luxury cars before and just bought the wife a 2011 sonata last week. What a nice car. We both needed and deserved upgrades. I was getting of fixing stuff in 10 degree weather. Garage or not.
  9. Fianlly , after over 8 years owning the car that would not die, I sold my 93 corolla. I paid $1100 for it in 2005 and sold it for $800. The darn car would not die even at 329000 miles. I was going to sell it at 300000 , but it still got 35 MPG and only burned a quart of oil every 600-1000 miles. I just put an axle in it , front brakes, ball joints, front tires, and a radiator in the last year. Mostly junkyard parts so maybe $100. The exhaust is getting loud again and the car was just looking worn out. I bought its replacement last september, a 2002 Chevy Prizm LSI. Yes , i know its the oil burner from hell, but I couldn't resist . The car has 116000 , and needed a bunch of mostly minor repairs. The 23 year old that owned it lived in an apartment and drove it until the left caliper piston was jammed out of the cylinder. I did a full brake job in the apartment parking lot just to drive it home. Rotors , pads, fluid, and one caliper. It needed tires and I found some almost new falken sincera-828's for $15 each + mounting. The oil filter would not come off. It took me a half hour with a big oil filter pliers to remove it. When i got the car it was a quart low , but the owner swore that he had not added any oil since the last quick lube change which was right at 3000 miles on the sticker. Here are pictures of it. Most of the rest was spark plugs , air filter, cleaning, fluids , repair the squirter bottle and a few more things. I have a total of $1350 in the car. So far at 300 miles on it , it does not burn any oil. I have a check engine light just come on , and it seems to be a bank 2 oxygen senson. No big deal. It does have some valve noise on cold startup for about 30 seconds. I am going to do an induction and system cleaning with B-G products that i have here. We will see if it helps. Here are pictures of both cars. I can only hope that this car gets me a few miles. .
  10. I have had very weak heat and getting worse. I changed the thermostat and gasket. Almost the same. Its been so cold I just ran with weak heat. A week later I get mad and look at the heater hoses to attempt to maybe flush the heater core and spy the real problem. The philips screw on top of the heater control had come loose and I basically was on cold all the time. Move the lever to cold, align the notch in the control box top with the cable end and tighten the screw. HEAT !!!!! Freaking hot heat too. I hope this helps someone.
  11. You spend far too much time on bobistheoilguy. The only way you would be tuned into redline ,auto rx , and gl-5 oils. Myself , i think that auto rx is just overpriced solvents. I like b-g products ,or mmo, just as well . For gear oils there are a lot of gl-5 to choose ,but I doubt that was factory fill in 2000. . For example, most modern gearboxes require a GL-4 oil, and separate differentials (where fitted) require a GL-5 oil. It is important that purchasers check the oil against the vehicle manufacturer's specification to ensure it does not contain any aggressive chemicals that may attack yellow metal gear components, such as phosphor bronze. # API GL-4. Oils for various conditions - light to heavy. They contain up to 4.0% effective antiscuffing additives. Designed for bevel and hypoid gears which have small displacement of axes, the gearboxes of trucks, and axle units. Recommended for non-synchronized gearboxes of US trucks, tractors and buses and for main and other gears of all vehicles. These oils are basic for synchronized gearboxes, especially in Europe. # API GL-5. Oils for severe conditions. They contain up to 6.5% effective antiscuffing additives. The general application of oils in this class are for hypoid gears having significant displacement of axes. They are recommended as universal oils to all other units of mechanical transmission (except gearboxes). Oils in this class, which have special approval of vehicle manufacturers, can be used in synchronized manual gearboxes only. API GL-5 oils can be used in limited slip differentials if they correspond to the requirements of specification MIL-L-2105D or ZF TE-ML-05. In this case the designation of class will be another, for example API GL-5+ or API GL-5 LS.
  12. I changed the bad caliper with my $20 u-pull caliper and pad set. I know , never use old pads. Hey , they work fine. I bled the brake with wagner synthetic fluid . Brakes quit squeeking and stop fine. I reset the code by disconnecting the battery. I have driven 100+ miles and it has not come back on yet , but I will get a 02 sensor the next time I am near the u-pull. They are $5. Car is running great. 298500 miles and counting. Just trying to get the old guy to 300000 . Put another quart of 10w30 in today. I am still getting 1000 miles a quart. The motor is original. Probably the best car I ever owned.5 years+ 90000 miles driven and under $2000 total with all parts and repairs. Car is still worth a grand. My kids 95 is close.
  13. how about the year and mileage. It could be a bad evap solenoid and/or canister ,but erase the codes and tighten the gas cap first. sometimes they purge themselves. they are very expensive. Find a junker or u-pull yard.
  14. right again . there is only one. The 95 has 2. I am wondering how hard that little sucker is going to take out. I sprayed it with pb blaster . I will do that again in the A.M.. I also cleaned the throttle body and put Lucas ucl in the tank . The car is running better that it has , but it was cool and rainy today. It was running fine but it had more pep through 2nd gear today. I have to change the right side caliper and pads anyway so if I get a little grubby . so what. I do have my (GASP) Suzuki Aerio to run to the zone for a loaner socket if I need it. I might reset the code ,which I tried today and it would not reset (pulled efi fuse), by disconnecting the battery and flaming the sensor with a torch. Sometimes it cleans them up. My engine and throttle body were so clean , I doubt that the 02 sensor is just dirty. Ya never know. The amount of oil I burn could have finally clogged the tip. I'll let you know.