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About sail114

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  • Birthday 05/21/1981
  1. Two things: I had the front struts replaced on my 06 CE last week since the car was in the shop for body work (hit a deer). Well, they did a front end alignment, and was well. Then I put my snow tires (new Blizzak WS-60's) on for the winter, and it feels like the rear end alignment is off now. The car feels like it is pushing down the road a little rather then going perfectly straight. Can the rear end on these cars even be aligned, considering they have a solid rear axle??? The other issue at hand is that I had the air/fuel ratio sensor replaced at the same time. I had a CEL on that was showing bank 1 lean, the shop ran the MAF tests, and determined the issue to be the AF sensor. Well, this morning the CEL came back on. I'm going to clean the MAF tonight to see if that makes a difference, but if not, anyone have any ideas? The car has 140k miles on it. Thanks! ~Chris
  2. Thanks for the quick reply. I noticed the Hawks tend to leave uneven pad deposits as well, and I can really feel them pulsing during slow stops in traffic toward the end of my commute. I'm going to head out tomorrow morning and go through the rebedding procedure. Thanks for the info on the rear brakes. I'll pick up some metric screws and try that method, as I'm a little worried about driiving even a short distance with the rear lugs loose. I'll let you know how it goes... Any recommendations on new shoes for the back if I need 'em?
  3. Fish, this one's for you... About 5 months after installing the HPS/brembo combo on my Gen 9, I started getting some heavy squealing when braking. In August (1 year after install), I took apart the brakes to hit both the pads and rotors with heavy sandpaper and regreased shoes and pins. Things were nice and quiet for about a week, then it started up again. I'm wondering if you can refresh my memory on the specific bedding sequence for this combo. I figure I'll give that a shot to see if I can cook the pad material off the rotors and start fresh. Also, having some trouble getting the rear drums off to check them for wear (over 115k on original pads/drums). Any advice for easing the drums off? Much appreciated, ~Chris
  4. When we took delivery of my wife's '10 Matrix last week, I asked service about it, but they said Toyota hasn't officially distributed the recall info yet. I'm still waiting to hear about it for my '06. ~Chris
  5. Just read that article. Wow! I guess I won't be braking the Altima from 100mph any time soon. Those results from the 370Z are just plain scary. ~Chris
  6. Fish, where is the vent hose for the transaxle? I want to make sure that isn't stopped up at all...
  7. Ok, so I got the car back yesterday. First of all, the Hawk pads dont' have nearly as much bite as I was expecting, but then again they aren't fully broken in yet (90 miles of driving), and I came from my mother's Altima 3.5 SR with HUGE rotors and carbon pads. The bummer is that my mechanic is telling me that the noise I'm hearing is most likely tires, as he can't find the source. I don't buy it, especially since I ran the spare and had the same noise. My money is still on the half-shaft, but I'm hesitant to swap it out until I have further hard evidence. Urgh!! ~Chris
  8. Michelin Hydroedge in the summer, Bridgestone Blizzaks in the winter. Yes, they're both expensive tires, but that's one part of the car that I'll never skimp on.
  9. Update: after talking with my mechanic today, they've been able to isolate the noise to around the differential. He said it sounds similar to a bad wheel bearing (which is why it fooled me), just not coming from the hub. They took it out for another test drive this morning after bedding in the new brembo/hawk brakes, and were going to scope it at some point this afternoon. I HOPE to god its not a bad diff or tranny, as that would kill me to do such high-priced repairs at 93k miles! Tranny fluid has been changed by me every 35k, so I highly doubt it has anything to do with that... Will keep you all updated. ~Chris (keeping fingers crossed!)
  10. Thanks for the info... kinda what I figured would be the case with the TPMS. I am the TPMS sensor for my Corolla, and I've never had an issue with tire pressure affecting my driving, since I stay on top of it so closely. I think we'll probably just mount snows on her original steels every year, as the cost of the TPMS sensors and extra steels will equal about 4 or 5 seasons of swapping out tires at the shop. Thank god for Toyota's free two year maintenance, as it would kill me to pay to have her tires rotated by Toyota every 5k. So far I like the Matrix, although my only basis for comparison is a test drive and a short drive to the market last night. The brakes are a lot better then what my corolla has, and its seems as though Toyota fixed the touchy gas pedal that plagued earlier models. The interior around the driver feels a bit more cramped, but I think that's a result of the larger/higher console and deeper gauge cluster. Seats are definitely better then what I have!
  11. I was actually discussing this very topic with my wife tonight. We just signed papers on my wife's new 2010 Matrix last night (taking delivery on Monday), and I'm wondering what we'll do about snow tires for the winter. I'd like to buy a blizzak/wheel set from tirerack, but apparently the TPMS sensors are another $290 in addition to the package!! Is there a way to disable TPMS when running tires that don't have the sensors, or am I just going to be messing with the computer too much? I guess the other option is to just swap out snows on the original steels, but then we're paying $50 every time they come on or off. Advice? Anything I should know about the Matrix that might be different from my 9th gen corolla as far as maintenance is concerned? ~Chris 06 Corolla (silver) (soon) 2010 Matrix (nautical blue)
  12. Happened to me too.. clock fades in an out. I bought a timex wristwatch instead of messing around with the clock. ~Chris
  13. So I'll smack on the new rotors, season them with the OEM pads that are on there with a couple gentle braking runs on the highway (ideal that the exit is 1/2 a mile from my house), then come back and put the new pads on, change the fluid, bleed the system, and call it a day. That's what I thought about the axle movement. It was possible to move it at the inboard end, but the hub-end was tight. I think I'll be calling my mother's mechanic and have her bring the car in this week to check for hub run out and if necessary, either do a bearing or axle job on the car. If i had my father's garage worth of tools I'd do the job myself, but the stuff I have allows me to do brakes and routine maintenance... not the big jobs.
  14. So it seems as though some seasoning needs to be done before I do the Hawk prescribed bedding process? I also read that new rotors should be seasoned using old pads. Does this apply in this case, or am I reading misinformation? Thanks for the info on the drums. I'll have to grab the PB blaster and give them a shot a few days before I attempt to pull them off. They look pretty well fused to the hub flange, so this could be tricky. As far as the thumping is concerned: I forgot to mention that when I was under the car last night, i tried to move the shaft front to back. The driver's side axle DID move about 1/16 of an inch when I applied pressure front to back. Now, I know that the shafts are suppose to have some in and out movement to them (which I also felt), but should they be able to move in a lateral direction? Also, is there any chance that my brakes could be causing this issue, seeing as I have such heavily worn pads and rotors on the car right now? Thanks again, -Chris
  15. Fish, I was hoping you'd chime in... thanks! Tires are stored in the winter stacked vertically in my garage to avoid pressure on the treads. I just put on the spare and went for a (short) drive, still feeling and hearing some noise from the front end. When I had it up on the jack, I played around with things a bit. Bearings feel fine in the 12 and 6 pull test, same with lower ball joint and tie rods. Also, I'm not hearing any grinding when I put my ear to the hub while spinning it. That being said, I do feel a small click in the driver side shaft if I rest my hand on it while slowly turning the tire. I'm not sure if this is normal differential 'noise' coming through the axle, or the CV joint clicking a bit and sending that vibration through. I'm definitely going to wait to do the brake job until I have this figured out. If it IS a bad bearing, the last thing I want to do is screw up a new set of brembo rotors. Question... when you mention 'seasoning the rotors', is that different from bedding the pads to them using the prescribed Hawk method of sequential braking pressure? Last brake job I did was brembo rotors and bendix titanium pads on my old Ford Contour, and those pads were specially designed to bed themselves over the course of 50 miles or so. Also, what's the best way to get a rusted drum off the rear hub? I'd like to check my rear shoes while I have the car up on the jack. Thanks! ~Chris