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Everything posted by timkedz

  1. A/C button lights up and glows steady when turned on. A/C compressor kicks in and stays running for the whole time. There is kind of different kind of gurgling sound when the A/C was on and car is first turned off. Different than the normal sounds it made when it was running correctly. Compressor "sounds" like it's not really working very hard. Change in RPMs is very slight. Used to make a much more noticable difference in engine sound when first engaged. A/C system sounds like it's hissing when it on from inside the car. I don't really see any leaks anywhere, but, I will have to look closer to make sure. Is it possible that the compressor died? These are all the things I can think of off the top of my head. I will check it again today for leaks and it is cooling at all. Trouble is, it's only 70 degrees out today, so, it will be harder to tell. Thanks for the help, Fish!
  2. Hello, I am having a lot of trouble with my 2000 Toyota Corolla's A/C system. First of all, on the first hot day this year, I tried to start my A/C and found it pumped out hot air. No compressor engagement at all. I checked the fuses and relays and found them all to be okay. Serpentine belt was fine as well. Took it to the garage and lo and behold, it was low on refrigerant. It wasn't empty, but low. I had it vacuum checked and no obvious leaks were found. Then, all the old refrigerant was sucked out and it was refilled with R134a with dye and double checked for leaks. Apparently none were found. A/C was icy cold. However; About a week later, I turned on my A/C on an 80 degree day and again, no cold air!! I opened the hood and found the compressor to be running, but, absolutely no cold air at all. I checked the temperature lever to make sure that I didn't leave it on the hot setting. I noticed that car's rpms don't change very much when I engage the A/C clutch. Again, it spins, but, doesn't seem to be doing anything. Any help or information would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  3. As long as the FCC ID number is the same and the cars are from the same generation, (they are) I see no reason why the remote wouldn't work from a 2008 to a 2007 model corolla.
  4. Fishexpo is exactly right. The range from a factory remote is very pathetic. Many, many, times I've hit the remote button only to find out the car is still locked when I get there. The battery is NOT the problem, as I have replaced it with a new one and got the exact same results. The concept that you could unlock the car from the top of a 15 story is also very true. The trick that I use to increase my remote range is to hold the remote well over my head and point at the center of the car. The distance easily doubles and sometimes even triples!! Of course people will give you odd looks when you use the remote this way, but, it does work..... My 2 cents worth.........
  5. Got a '97 Prizm up to 95 MPH with quite a bit of pedal left. Didn't try for any more because the tires were kind of old at the time and truthfully, I really don't care for the floaty feeling a 2,600 pound car feels at speeds above 80 MPH. But, that's just me..................
  6. I get about the same fuel mileage on my 2000 Corolla that Larry Roll does, about 23 to 27 MPG in the city during the spring, summer and autumn months and 20 to 22 MPG during the winter months. Highway miles are anywhere between 32 and 39 MPG depending upon my driving habits. My all-time highest mileage ever was 43 MPG on the highway at a constant 60 MPH. All-time worse city mileage was 18 MPG; 100% city driving in sub-zero winter weather with lots of prolonged warm ups and stop and go driving!!!! Consumer Reports has rated the latest Corolla's mileage as 23 MPG City and 40MPG on the highway with an overall combined score of 32 MPG and that sounds just about right to me!!!! timkedz.
  7. Thanks, Bob, for the tip! I'll try cleaning the bezel that I have right now with PlastX, first (Haven't gotten to it, just yet) and if it doesn't work the way I want it to, I'll give 1sttoyotaparts a try!!! I appreciate the advice!!! timkedz
  8. Thanks Fishexpo and Bob for the quick response!! I will give PlastX a shot and see what happens!!! The bezel was previously removed by a former owner at one point, because two of the tabs that hold the bezel in place were broken off and there was a small piece of duct tape on one side, presumably to hold it on and keep it from rattling. Worse case scenario, I will simply go to the local boneyard and look for another one to replace it. Trouble is, where I live, Corolla parts are very scarce for anything 8th gen, or newer. Like I said in my original post, it isn't really all that bad, unless the light hits it just right, but, the fact that I KNOW it's there is very aggravating!!!!! I'll let you guys know how the PlastX work out!!!! Thanks, again!!!! timkedz.
  9. Hello, everyone!! I had a situation that I thought I should share with the rest of the group, here.... I was doing a little spring cleaning in my 2000 Corolla and I've come to a slight problem with the speedometer bezel "glass" while trying to clean it. There seemed to be some kind of liquid spattered on the glass and plastic part of the dashboard. The only thing I could possibly think it could be is some Armor All that might been spilled on it when I last cleaned and dressed the dashboard. The plastic part cleaned up just fine, but, the dried-up droplets on the glass refused to come off. I tried Windex on it and the drops still stayed there. I tried to clean it a little more aggressively and found out that the bezel cover is VERY EASILY SCRATCHED!!! Now, I have a scratched bezel and spots on the glass!!! It's not the worst looking....It can't really be seen at night at all and just slightly during the day with the exception of certain times of the day when the sun is just right and you can see not only the liquid drops, but, the scratches as well. My question is; is there kind of chemical that could possibly take the scratches and spots off the bezel, or am I stuck having to get a replacement bezel. Thanks, timkedz
  10. A lot of junkyards around here won't sell 8th generation 1zzfe engines since they know that they have a bad reputation for oil-burning and they don't want the hassle of dealing with an angry customer! I've heard that 9th gen engines will fit, but, there is an awful lot of work that needs to be done to order to make it work.
  11. What!!! Talking about a Tercel on a Corolla Forum???!!!! KIDDING!!!!!! Seriously, though; does anyone remember when a Tercel WAS actually a part of the Corolla family???!!!!!!
  12. In 2001, Toyota did some minor cosmetic updates on the Corolla, but, apparently GM left the Prizm the way it was, so, I think it's fair to say that the 2000 and 2002 Prizms are virtually identical. I would probably chose the lower mileage one, myself, but, low miles don't automatically make it a better car. I guess you'll simply have to drive BOTH of them, before you can make a final decision!!! Whatever you decide, best of luck to you!!! timkedz
  13. When I first bought my '00 Corolla in March of '06, I got so many of those extended warranty offers, it was unreal! They were from several different 3rd party warranty companies and they used many different sales tactics, from automated calls that told me that my warranty was over, or about to end and that I shouldn't make the mistake of driving without a warranty, as well as many, many post cards that told me to contact them as soon as possible, because, again, I was about to lose "important" vehicle coverage!! I also got several "official-looking" letters basically offering the same thing!!! In short, it's all just a ploy to get you to send them money for potential repairs that probably won't happen in the first place!! These warranties are rarely worth anything at all. As a final thought. We have a '97 Prizm that was bought brand new and although it has only 53K miles on it, we have never had it a repair shop for a mechanical breakdown ever!!!! The only things that have been done to it have been tires, brake relining, battery and fluid changes! None of which would have been covered on any extended warranty contract. Best thing is to take that money and put it in YOUR bank, not theirs!!!! Hope this helps, timkedz.
  14. Sorry to hear about your daughter's accident, Bikeman! I think you're right, it does look like a total loss. Rear end accidents are a bitch to fix, according to a friend of mine that does body work. The airbag deployment alone would probably total the car. I am surprised to see that BOTH of them deployed. (I'm assuming that your daughter was alone in the car though..) Some older passenger bags deploy whether there is someone sitting there or not. Nissan Sentras are okay. I actually almost bought one instead of my Corolla. I think Toyotas are better, but, I would consider a Sentra if the price and condition were right. The most important thing is, that your daughter wasn't hurt in the accident! Have a happy holiday season! timkedz
  15. I totally agree with Bitter!!!!That's what I think it sounds like. Those individual injectors and/ or coils go bad quite a bit and that could cause the the problem you just described!
  16. I don't think would apply to your Corolla by the way you drive, (mostly highway) but, on my '97 Prizm, it won't shift into 4th gear until the engine temperature gets halfway up to the normal operating range. Also, my 2000 Corolla doesn't like to change into 3rd gear (also 4 speed auto) when it's cold either, it really winds out until it warms up.......... Just a thought..........
  17. On both of my cars, Corolla/Prizm with the 1.8 liter engine, the oil caps both are marked "use 5W-30 oil" and that's all I've been using in them and yes, it does make a really big difference in the winter...... I think the 1.6 liter engine recommends 10W-30 and states you can also use 5W-30 and the 1.8 liter is just the opposite, recommending 5W-30 and 10W-30 as an option, providing the temperature is above 32 degrees.......
  18. Hi, It sounds like something definitely happened with your transmission since your last scheduled maintenance! I believe that dark colored ATF fluid indicates an overheating condition inside your transmission. Any heavy towing, or excessive wheel spin, (like trying to get unstuck from a snowbank, for example) could possibly cause the ATF fluid to turn brown. Does it have any kind of burnt odor, or are their any small particles in the fluid? There are two ways to change transmission fluid as far as I know. First, they drop the pan and let most of the fluid run out. The only problem with this method is they can't get the fluid out of the torque converter and that's why you are being advised to have this done more than once. Then, they will install a new filter and pan gasket and put it back together. This method will change only about 2/3 of your transmission fluid, but, you will have a new filter. Another newer method is that they don't drop your transmission pan, but, instead, they power flush and/or vacuum your transmission fluid out of the system without opening the transmission up and replace virtually all of your ATF fluid. The tradeoff is that they don't change the transmission filter with this method. So, the choice is yours. I guess you could have BOTH methods done starting with the newer method first, in order to achieve your objective of having really clean transmission fluid once again, but, I think that you should also make an effort to find out what really caused it to turn dark in the first place....... By the way, I am not a mechanic, I am just sharing my own past experiences with transmission servicing from my own past. Hope this helps, Regards, timkedz
  19. A-HA! That would explain it! Interestingly enough, the manual DOES say for U.S spec. autos, but, the car itself was manufactured in Canada, thus adding to the confusion!!! It's not a really big deal, but, it would have been cool to have this option!!! Thanks, 99Contour, for your quick response!!!!!
  20. Hi, all: I recently ran out of washer fluid on my 2000 Corolla LE and obviously, I solved the "problem" by refilling the rather large bottle, which was virtually bone dry. (By the way, why do they make the darn bottle such a size that it ALMOST uses up an entire gallon of washer fluid, but, not quite????) Anyway, I was looking through my owner's manual the other day and I noticed that there was a low washer fluid light on the dashboard. I have NEVER seen this warning light go on even one time! Now, my Corolla is a 2000 and my owner's manual is for a 2001 Corolla, so I just assumed that this option wasn't available on 2000 models. So, I downloaded a PDF version of a 2000 Corolla owner's manual from the internet and I found out that they did, in fact, have a low washer level light as well.. So, I guess my question would be, how can I find out if I have this option on my Corolla? My Corolla is a rather nicely optioned LE model, so, if it was an option, I would think that my car would be equipped with it. I'm figuring that the light is simply burnt out. There is some kind of electrical plug that goes into the washer bottle. Is that for the washer pump, or could it be for a sensor for the warning light? Anyway, any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thanks, timkedz.
  21. Just a thought.... If money is a consideration, you could always go aftermarket and buy a universal cruise control kit for your Corolla. The only downside would be that it might not "look" right in the car, depending on what type it is. It may be another additional steering lever stalk, or even a dashboard mounted type. BUT, you could probably get one for around $100 less installation. I've had several and most of them worked as well as factory installed unit. One was a piece of crap, however..... Anyways, just thought I would add my two cents worth!!!!! Good luck with whatever you decide!!! timkedz
  22. Oil Levels

    WOW!!!! You can consider yourself a very, very, lucky person!! From your post, I can tell you that you managed to ward off the complete destruction of your engine, although, I wouldn't be a bit surprised if there might be serious problems sometime in the future related to the fact that the engine was driven for quite a while with very little oil in the crankcase. Anytime the oil light is on while driving, you should immediately shut it off and add oil as necessary!!! The grinding noise is not a good sign, thou, again, the added oil seems to have rectified that. 8th Generation Corollas/Prizms can be very oil thirsty, but, it almost sounds like at the last oil change, no oil, or not enough oil was put in. Like Fishexpo said, it takes roughly 4 P.S.I to make the oil pressure light go off and with the exception of the light going on when you turn the ignition on, you should never, ever see this light come on. One last thing, the oil light indicates low oil PRESSURE, not low oil LEVEL, like a lot of people like to believe, although, low oil level does cause low oil pressure. There is no substitute for checking the dipstick on a regular basis..... Anyway, best of luck with your Corolla! regards, timkedz.
  23. Unfortunately, most of us Corolla owners have automatic transmissions, which do put somewhat of a damper on overall mileage, although even the 3 speed automatic Corollas still get very good mileage overall. I think that a lot of Corolla owners that claim 35-40 mpg have 5 speed manuals and may assume that we already know this.
  24. On a recent family vacation driving almost exclusively on the highway, I got 43.2 MPG (I can hardly believe it myself!) with a '97 Prizm with the 1.8 litre engine and the 4 speed automatic!!! But, I purposely never drove over 60 MPH and I didn't use the A/C at all!!!! This was the figure I came up with after the pump shut off for the first time. It dropped slightly when I gave the gas nozzle an extra squeeze to top the tank off. (42.5 MPG) My usual highway mileage is around 34 to 38 MPG with an average speed of 65 to 75 MPH and generous use of the air conditioner. Over 40 MPG is definitely possible, but, it's not always practical in real world driving. Now, if only I could get my city mileage over 25 MPG!!!!
  25. While driving my 2000 Corolla the other day, I noticed that the exhaust note has a different tone to it. A slightly deeper tone, mostly at around 1,800- 2,500 RPMs. I first noticed it about a week ago, but, figured it was just my imagination. This car has only 40,000 miles on it and I'd hate to think that the exhaust system is shot already! I have a '97 Prizm with 51,000 miles on it with the original exhaust system and it sounds as good as the day we bought the car! Anyway, aside from the obvious, is there anything that could be causing this noise, like a bad exhaust flange or gasket. It seems to be coming from the front end of the car, like near the cat converter. How much does a stainless steel exhaust system cost to repair/replace anyway???!!!! Any thoughts, help, or advice would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!! timkedz.