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fishexpo101 last won the day on September 16 2019

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About fishexpo101

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    I know Karate, Kung Fu, and 47 other dangerous wor

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  1. Nothing really new - just sounds fantastical. Cow poop is just another source for feedstock for hydrogen gas generation. Doesn't mean the car will run directly on manure, just like biomass and other similar sources, a factory captures the methane gas from the material and converts it to hydrogen - usually from a steam reforming process (lots of heat + nickel catalyst, splits methane into hydrogen and carbon monoxide). Most of the hydrogen in the world is manufactured in this process, but is extremely cost prohibitive unless generated at scale. There is also athermal reforming, but that also has some cost/gas generation issues that have to be addressed. Reformer cells could be a possibility - basically shrinks the factory into a space that could fit in the car, but you'd have to overcome a ton of engineering issues - right now those are just engineering thoughts / lab prototypes. Thermodynamic efficiency and dealing with waste contaminants is major issue with those.
  2. I got the ones on my 2009 Matrix XRS changed out all at once - the dealership told me that they were getting in small shipments pretty much daily to keep up. They actually changed the front passenger airbag (recalled) as well as the side airbags and curtain airbags (not on the recall - but was in a separate TSB that came out after the recall for certain VIN ranges).
  3. Usually, when an axle doesn't want to seat completely in (click in) - that is due to the c-clip being distorted and/or there is some dirt or debris that got into the splines and causing it to not be able to slide in. Because of that gap - looks like it is a distorted clip. Pretty tough to damage an axle when you install it - shouldn't be wailing on the axle with anything more than a rubber mallet, if you have to hit it with a hammer - just quick/light taps. Also double check that the depth of the splines match up to the original axles. I've seen some replacement ones that were just slightly longer than OEM - it cause it to not fully seat in place, even through the clip was engaged.
  4. Unfortunately, have to do some legwork with a wiring guide and some diagnostics with a multimeter - with issues like this, can be a huge number of things causing several fuses to blowout all at once. Could be a short in the main wiring harness, could be a faulty headunit or short in the clock PCB board, or could be a short in a seemingly unrelated circuit (ie, in some 7th gen Corollas, a bad taillight socket (corrosion) can cause the radio and/or cigarette outlet to blow out), etc.
  5. No worries - I thought it was the firewall at my work that was preventing posting for me. Good to know - faster can't hurt either!
  6. Need more information - make, model, model year? Many of the TPMS have some threshold that must be met for the sensor light to turn off - sometimes can be sensitive to a handful of PSI. On my RAV4 - if the pressure difference is more than 5PSI, the light will trip. Some have to be manually reset to turn the lights off - usually it is noted in the user's manual - many times, it is just some button in the glovebox or similar that you have to press and hold to reset the light. Another possibility - one or more of the tire sensors battery failed and not being detected by the TPMS control unit, so it thinks the air pressure is way off. Of course, if you installed tires without sensors in them, that light will stay on the whole time until it detects those sensors again.
  7. Could potentially be a leak in the intake manifold. On 9th gen Corollas like yours, there was a TSB for an updated intake manifold gasket that sealed better against the composite material, especially in cooler temperatures. But those tend to "cycle" between fast idle and normal idle constantly. If it is just fast idles right after starting up - but eventually coming back down to normal idle range - sounds like it could be the new normal to me. Noticed my RAV4 and Corolla doing that more and more when the weather is colder - chalking that up to the amount of miles on them (almost 300k on Corolla, 105K on RAV4).
  8. Doesn't appear to be a motor mount to me. Looks more like one of the rubber bumpers that attach to the hood or even possibly part of the radiator mount (vibration isolator). Could also be something that sits next to the hood release latch to help push up the hood. Since the Vibe has some parts that are not interchangeable with the Toyota Matrix clone - totally possible GM tried to shoehorn something from their parts bin in there that I'm not familiar with. But unless the car is driving or running erratically, I wouldn't worry too much about it at this moment - sounds like you have other stuff to worry about.
  9. Yeah, could be any of the above, or combination of them. Sometimes you can get lucky/unlucky with these things. Sounds like you just caught an unlucky break on the seal. Still, after being fixed, should be able to drive it until you get tired of the car. Toyota did make a number of improvements to this generation of Rav4 compared to the previous generation (still hotly debated though). I have both a 2009 and 2016 Rav4s - if you could combine the two, that would make a pretty nice vehicle. Both (knock on wood) have been pretty reliable, aside from some shoddy recall work done by the dealership.
  10. Hmm, that is pretty unusual, haven't heard of oil leaking on the from the rear seal. Not something that seems to be an issue, even on the rav4world forums. The low oil vicosity that they spec for the engine may be partly to blame - thinner oil will find a way out of the engine eventually. I'll clean that area up really well and monitor for oil leaks.
  11. I think this was a "counter" issue - ie, lazy or goof in the coding to display mileage after 299,999 miles or kms. Same with the trip odometers, if I remember right - it was 9,999 for Trip B, Trip A good for 99,999 ? I'm not certain if you can query the OBD to get the "correct mileage" - my 8th gen is getting close (270K miles) - but I don't think it affected this generation - just the 9th gen Corolla / 1st gen Matrix and 1st gen Prius.
  12. Nice, pretty sharp - looks a lot more aggressive than the outgoing 4th gen. Rav4. Will have to check those out when they come out to the showrooms. Pretty happy with our 2016 Rav4 - that had a number of improvements compared to the previous model years (2013-2015). This looks to blow the 2016-2018 model years out of the water.
  13. There are a number of posts that go into detail on those oil consumption issues - do a search on the forums and see if that will answer your questions. As for oil consumption - any car can have oil consumption, much of that depends on maintenance history and driving conditions that the car sees. Concerning the 1ZZ-FE - a small number of them have seen some serious oil consumption issues. Some owners have had better luck than others. The key is checking the oil level regularly and often. Can't assume that the oil level will not go down over time. At the very minimum, check the level every time you fill up or once a week, whichever is less. The dipstick replacement you are referring to was only the later 1ZZ-FE models. That effectively increased the oil capacity by ~0.5 liter, by moving the "full" mark on the dipstick.
  14. My wife's 2016 RAV4 makes this clunk sound/feel only moving into reverse, none of the forward gears - even what it was brand new. This 6-speed transaxle is super sensitive, especially if you park on any sort of grade, short of being perfectly level. Much worse when you go from park to reverse, feels like something is hung up in the transaxle. Trick we found was to make sure to set the parking brake, let the car settle, then shift it into park - that took any load off the parking pawl. The next day, when reversing, still has that clunk - but greatly reduced. Normally, I'd just do a drain and refill just to see what the fluid is doing - but with the required SST to get it refilled, too much of a pain to do myself.
  15. This generation has a learning transaxle logic, so if you only occasionally run it WOT, the reaction will be relatively slow. Resetting the PCM will temporarily wipe those settings, that's why it ran differently. If the fluid is good, pressures inside the valvebody and fluid lines are fine, nothing seemed amiss in the transaxle pan (excessive metal or material shavings) - then likely this is the PCM picking shift strategy based on driving patterns. Only thing I can think of is to give it a healthy romp on the highways every once and a while, change up the driving style. See if that will help out. A 2010 with 153K miles is really nothing to this car - as long as you stay ontop of the factory recommended service. Resetting the PCM won't hurt, but will wipe previously stored settings (shift points, air fuel timing, etc.) - if you disconnect the battery to do this, instead of through a scantool - then you will also reset your radio presets (may run into the radio anti-theft, depending on the receiver model you have).