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About crypticlineage

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  1. Thanks fish. I don't think any coolant leaked into the engine. I have unadulterated oil and the coolant level is just fine. Next thing I am going to do is open the valve cover. Can you give some pointers on what things I should check? I have Haynes manual but not sure how helpful that will be.
  2. Fish: Thank you for such a detailed analysis and all the information. Here are some pictures of the spark plugs. My plan is to open up the valve cover and do some inspection in the next few days and see if I can fix anything myself. I will report back with more pictures once I open the top up.
  3. I have got some terrible news. Before I called the tow truck to take it to a mechanic, I decided to pull the spark plugs and check compression. My findings are as follows: - Oil on all coils - All spark plugs were rusted and showed signs of oil burning (white tips - will post pics soon) Compression test (dry) Cyl#1: 0 PSI Cyl#2: 0 PSI Cyl#3: 30 PSI Cyl#4: 60 PSI I ran the dry compression test multiple times to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong. There was never any compression on cylinder 1 & 2. Cylinders 3 and 4 stopped showing any compression after multiple tests. Wet taste on cylinder 1 showed no increase in compression. I take it that the pistons on 1 & 2 are permanently damaged/stuck. There was no point in taking it to a mechanic at this point since I am not in the mood to spend upwards of $2000 on rebuilding the engine or getting another donor (this was my second donor which lasted about 5 years). So I brought it back home. Someone suggested to me that timing chain may be broken. How could that result in any compression at all on cylinder 3 and 4 though? Also, will the engine still turn if the chain was broken? I could potentially do some work on my own at home, so any suggestions/ideas for testing are much appreciated. I will be looking for a new car soon. Thanks guys.
  4. Hello everyone, I am back here after a really long time. From those of you who remember, my 2000 corolla VE had problems accelerating beyond 70 mph. A distinct hesitation as if caused by intermittent fuel supply problems, was apparent at speeds above 70 or so. I have lived with this problem for years by simply maintaining the speed below 70. In the meantime, my CEL has constantly had P0420 code. Even after replacing oxygen sensors I hadn't been able to get rid of it. Last night however, things took a turn for the worse. I was on a 300 mile trip back home, and couldn't accelerate above 65mph. The car was hesitating like crazy with accelerator pressed or depressed at those speeds. I stopped to refill the tank and dropped some Techron fuel injection cleaner which didn't seem to help at all. Then after about 100 miles, I couldn't accelerate above 60mph. At a couple of stop signs along the way, the engine cut off at low RPM. Then a few miles later, I heard a very peculiar sound kind of like release of high pressure air accompanied by really strong rotten egg smell that lasted for a good 5 minutes. These all sound like classic symptoms of the failure of catalytic converter. I have replaced this part before when my car used to burn a lot of oil. It's been more than 5 years since then. The cat was replaced right after swapping the motor. The new motor also burns oil, albeit much slowly than the previous one. But five years of oil burning has probably taken a toll on the cat. So my question is, should I just go ahead and replace the cat? I plan to get the aftermarket one but not sure if I should get direct fit or universal fit. The cat I have now is welded onto the exhaust pipe. So I am thinking universal fit should be fine. If you guys have any recommendations, please share. Thanks for reading. Edit: Drove car again this evening. Engine cuts off constantly when stopped. Had to keep revving it up with one foot on break. Definitely looking like choked cat.
  5. Fish: Where exactly does the O2 sensor cable enter the dash? Do I need to open the dash panel to get near ECU? Last week I wanted to test my new MAF sensor, but found that backprobing with multimeter leads was impossible on the connector. The blue rubber inserts between the cable and the connector are very tight. I wonder how to get the probes inside them. The vampire inserts you're talking about, are they literally piercing that rubber to get to the wire?
  6. dom: Is it safe to get under the lifted car when the engine is running? If yes, I should be able to check output voltage on the front o2 sensor. On second thought, I might even be able to do that from the top. I will have to get some back-probes for my multimeter leads. As for your question about full throttle or partial throttle, I dont know the answer to that, since my car has had P0420 for years now, which I think indicates open loop problem. Bank 1 o2 sensor - changed 2 years ago catalytic converter - changed 4 years ago Bank 2 o2 sensor - changed 5 years ago MAF sensor - changed last week
  7. dom: What is a wide band O2 monitor? Can you explain that a bit? Can I check anything with a multimeter? By closed loop, do you mean when car has fully warmed up? If so, this happens in both closed and open loop. Acceleration beyond 65MPH would trigger the hesitation in both conditions.
  8. Dom: Thanks for the links. Indeed it's worth checking this option out. But I am still wondering if a 4 speed controlling ECM from 2003 model year can work with a 3 speed automatic transmission from 2000 model year.
  9. Sorry for reviving my old thread here. My last post indicated that the problem was solved. It really wasn't however. The hesitation came back after a bit again and I can't fathom why I didn't come back on here and posted about it. It's been almost 5 years since my last thread. I still have this nasty problem and no amount of fuel injection cleaning fluid will remedy the situation. I suppose more knowledge may have accumulated during these 5 years and perhaps I could get some more information now. Any advise would be great. Thanks.
  10. Toyotabubba: My cluster swap went very well. Here is the diy: then click on interior mods Thanks for your help.
  11. It may be the timing chain tensioner. Oil leak from a loose tensioner is very common. You can buy a new tensioner for around $25 at 1sttoyotaparts and replace it yourself. There is plenty of DIYs for this job on the internet, jus t google. Of course, the timing chain cover might itself be leaking oil due to bad gasket, or it might be crankshaft seal. I would clean up that general area with some brake cleaner (don't spray on the belt), and then watch every day for where the oil comes from. Do you have any oil on the belt itself?
  12. Checking PCV valve is easy enough. All you need is a wrench to remove it from the engine. First disconnect the vacuum hose that attaches to the valve, then remove the valve. If you shake the valve, it should rattle. If it doesn't that means it's clogged. Then you should replace it. Also, what do you mean by plugs were fried? Do you remember their color, condition, any oil residue on them?
  13. A lot of things can throw this code. It means: Catalyst system inefficient. Anything from bank1 oxygen sensor, bank2 oxygen sensor, MAF sensor and catalytic converter. How long ago (miles and period of time) did you change oxygen sensors? Oxygen sensor voltages should be measured if you want to diagnose the problem instead of throwing parts at the car. If catalytic converter is indeed going bad, you will notice drivability problems like sluggish acceleration. Does your car burn any oil? If yes, how much? Haynes manual has a section called Emissions where they detail diagnosis of oxygen sensors and MAF sensors. For starters you should go ahead and clean up MAF sensor (sits on airbox after the filter) with throttle body cleaner. Also doesn't hurt to clean up throttle body while you are at it. In the nutshell, it's not easy to diagnose the emission system, but you don't have to shell out hundreds of dollars at the shop to diagnose. Most of this stuff you can do yourself. If you find that O2 sensors are indeed bad, you can buy original ACDELCO or DENSO brand sensors from rockauto. They currently have the best prices. I just did an estimate the other day and it came out to about $110 for both sensors, direct fit OEM. Hope that helps.
  14. Have you checked the fluid level and color? Remember transmission fluid is to be checked at normal operating temperature. Is your car still under warranty?
  15. You also might be able to find mounts in junkyard although 1991 is pretty old. Check