Bitter

What causes the ground to burn is a poor design that couldn't handle the current over a long period of time. That ground comb design isn't very good for loads like that, it's OK for lighter loads tho.

Even a small amount of air will make a poor pedal, check out videos on youtube about how to bleed brakes, you should only need to bleed that one corner.

Yea, sorry there's not a simpler better option. The speedo/odometer portion just unscrews from the cluster once you take the bezel off. You can play with it off the car to change the miles to what you need them to be, a good time to inspect the solder joints. You may be able to swap just the bad parts from one to another, I never took one apart that far. There's also places that'll repair them if you send it out.

Odo is ran off the speedo signal, could be the odo motor has began to fail, unrelated to the damage to the front/bottom of the car. Get a new used cluster and just manually roll the miles to match yours, it's tedious but do-able.

Had a good time out at a car meet, they went straight and I turned to have another go down my favorite road. And it was a good go! Just having fun so not nailing it hard as I can.

The exhaust manifold for the 4A may not be tall enough for the 7A, but that's easily fixed with an eBay stainless steel 7A-FE manifold, you'll need a 7A-FE ECM and the matching engine harness, since the 7A uses a knock sensor for better timing control and more engine power. I suggest getting a non OBD2 ECM since you can advance base timing for a little extra torque as long as you use higher octane fuel.

The amber 'bulb' isn't the airflow sensor, the airflow sensor are the two wires at the base of the inside of the plastic stalk. If you're at almost 100,000 miles and you've never changed the spark plugs now would be a good time to do it when you do the valve cover gasket. I suggest Denso Iridium TT spark plugs, they'll easily last another 100,000 miles (or more). The 98-03 1ZZ engine (your engine) is known for consuming oil and having low compression as they age, it wouldn't be a bad idea to do a piston soak when the spark plugs are out, there's a lot of how-to's on that around the internet. I've heard great things about AC Delco X-66P upper end engine cleaner lately, it would be worth a shot. Between a clean MAF, clean upper end, and new plugs it should idle pretty nicely. The last step may be a new passenger side engine mount. Only use a dealer part for that, aftermarket ones are made of the wrong rubber and shake worse or last only a year or two.

4/0 is serious over kill, 4 or 6 gauge pure copper cable is perfectly plenty. The problem with buying thick cable online from places like ebay is often you get copper clad aluminum cable which is about a 20% capacity penalty when compared to the same thickness copper cable. I love using welding cable for automotive since it's high strand count and super flexible, it's easy to get the ends to take a tinning to prevent corrosion, and it's fairly inexpensive when bought online. I've got some left over from my audio install that I've been slowly using here and there.

It's super solid, all welded one hunk of steel. I wouldn't have bothered with a flexible one. The seller overestimated the shipping and refunded some of it, so I donated it to a charity. https://ramusa.org/donate/

just run two relays, one triggered by the high beams and one triggered by a switch in the cabin.

Snagged a RMM front strut tower bar for $125 shipped, need to touch up the paint on the bar ends but otherwise it's in good shape!

Check the DRL box above the glovebox, it's likely smoked due to a bad ground by the driver side outer foot well above the carpet. It might be ground 201 or ground 202, it's been a long time since I had to repair one. Inside the box will be a smoked chip about in the middle of the the one side, it fuses to the ON position and ground pulls backward through the circuit, usually the symptom is the engine dies when the lights come on but depending what part of the box smoked up then other weird things can happen.

It needs to be tucked back down and glued, two ways to do that. The 100% correct way and the still correct but probably won't work 100% perfectly way. Easy way is to roll the window down and put some glue under the lifted areas then use a blunt tool to tuck the vinyl back under the window trim. May not be perfect, but good enough probably. Correct way is to pull the door panel, pull the trim off the panel, peel up, and reglue the whole upper edge, then reinstall the trim and door panel.

They slightly altered the internal tank baffling from the earlier built 93 models onward, not that you'll find a clean late 92/early 93 gas tank for a used part. Check eBay, they go for about $150-200 on a regular basis.

Which engine do you have? This board is mostly US/Canada and I don't think we got that trim level here so we may not be familiar with your engine.