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buurin

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About buurin

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  1. Depends on the region. We are leasing one right now. I wanted it to be hybrid but battery anxiety (?) and conservative convenience won. Its Entune is crap and doesn't support real Android Auto, and its USB port prompts my phone to install Entune app EVERYTIME I plug it in. I was so fed up I carved a data isolation adapter out of an unused USB gadget of unknown origin so I can charge my phone (slowly) leaving the 12V port free for something else. When I floor it the engine happily goes to 4000+rpm but car doesn't accelerate as quickly, typical of e-gas and slushbox. Overall, I'm not impressed. I am still holding on to my Little Pig until it rusts out. (I have had to install two nutserts on it because broken bolts.)
  2. It all began here: https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/evap-code-for-little-pig-finally.1481978/ The car was okay for a while afterwards, but CEL recently returned with a P0446. Ran through the troubleshooting steps again and found the previously jammed VSV-VPS valve (one near charcoal canister) have failed. Resistance readings seem okay but applying voltage does nothing. It is a small SPDT solenoid for vacuum essentially and the correct one for my car is expensive. Is there any other compatible part from other Toyota models that works the same for less, or should I replace the entire charcoal canister which includes this valve? Both have been on the car since factory.
  3. For a 8th gen with cruise control, that hole accepts a support bracket for the throttle cable going in and out of the actuator. EDIT: In case image doesn't show: http://www.majhost.com/gallery/buurin/corolla/img_4000.jpg The silver piece right in the middle just on top of valve cover. Must be a carryover. How come you have the engine lift hook and mine didn't?
  4. I have more pics up on TN. Fish, for evaluating the extent of mandatory parts replacement, here are the more important ones. http://www.majhost.com/gallery/buurin/corolla/savemybacom/img_7454.jpg 5th driven gear http://www.majhost.com/gallery/buurin/corolla/savemybacom/img_7464.jpg http://www.majhost.com/gallery/buurin/corolla/savemybacom/img_7466.jpg http://www.majhost.com/gallery/buurin/corolla/savemybacom/img_7467.jpg Input shaft and diff http://www.majhost.com/gallery/buurin/corolla/savemybacom/img_7483.jpg Output shaft http://www.majhost.com/gallery/buurin/corolla/savemybacom/outputshaft1.jpg In its last moments it jumps out of 2. In/Out shafts front bearings - i guess these must be replaced regardless? http://www.majhost.com/gallery/buurin/corolla/savemybacom/img_7487.jpg I have seen those BK418AWS rebuild kit go as low as $448.
  5. Try 10x the cost. A new unit is $3047 from dealer; the junkyard special I put in the pig is $300.
  6. which I did after 3 days. I started a new thread for that since I don't think I'm going to get LSD...
  7. This is a continuation to this thread. After 3 days I finally have the transmission all apart. Here is the postmortem: Output shaft rear bearing totally disintegrated - plastic retainer vanished, the 7 balls inside ground to some unknown shape. The final drive is all chipped to hell, meaning the output shaft is toast too. This pair is 18/67 meaning 3.722. 5th is 40/29 = 0.725. I'll count the rest of the gears and post them up later. 1,2,5 gears sees slight gouging in the middle. 5th driven gear scraped against bearing retainer plate - a $216 and $112 part respectively Metal pieces everywhere. Inside of transmission case sees lot of gouging and chipping. 3rd and 4th gears are relatively intact. Before the incident it didn't shift that smoothly either, but I have not seen a known good vs. known bad synchros so I don't know how far gone they are, or if they are still good. Geartrain for reverse is for the most part intact. Shifter work also seems mostly intact. My guess at a root cause would be the rear output shaft bearing disintegrating, causing it to shake which then send gear chips everywhere and ruining everything in sight. I have some pics up on my thread on TN: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=381671 I'll have some close-up pics of the input and output shafts posted later. With those pics up, can someone tell if this transmission is worth spending the 4-digit cash to rebuild? Gear ratios after I counted the teeth: (driven/drive=ratio) 1. 38/12=3.166 2. 40/21=1.904 3. 38/29=1.310 4. 31/35=0.885 5. 29/40=0.725 R. 39/12=3.250 Final drive: 67/18=3.722 If info I read off the net is correct, this is indeed a 98-02 C59 which should predate the bearing problems.
  8. I started taking the transmission apart. Here's what I found so far: Output shaft rear bearing totally disintegrated - plastic retainer vanished, the 7 balls inside ground to some unknown shape 5th driven gear scraped against bearing retainer plate - a $216 and $112 part respectively Metal pieces everywhere Differential ring gear badly chipped, as seen through the drain hole - I still couldn't separate the trans case and diff case. I'm sure I'll find more damaged parts once I get past this point. Where can I find those upgraded gear parts for a 5speed? MWR again only really caters to C6x trannies...
  9. I'd love to know about brake pads as well. I don't have much meat left. Your son pointed the headlight down because of HID glare issues. HID capsules in regular halogen bulb housing will throw light everywhere, including way up. To mitigate this issue people using these kits aim the headlights down. There are two screws for headlight aiming. The one you can easily access adjusts horizontal aiming. The vertical aiming screw which is what you need is hidden by the corner lights. You'll need to remove the corners to get at it. Correct aiming is 2" down from headlight housing center, with car level, 25 feet away from a wall.
  10. My car came from the factory with a transmission oil cooler at the bottom of the radiator as it was an auto. I swapped to manual in 2007 but didn't touch the cooler. So it's sitting there doing nothing. Assuming I get the right plumbing and flush all the remaining ATF out, can I reuse it to cool engine oil? Would I see benefit from doing this?
  11. When I was at a dealer ordering a transmission gasket kit I saw a poster listing approved oil grades and I saw 98-02 being approved for 5w-20 as well. Does it mean it's OK to run full 4L (well, maybe 4qt - 3.78L) of 5w-20 with a tall YZZF1 oil filter?
  12. While I have to airbox out attempting to drop the tranny (sadly I couldn't go through with it myself - going to a shop) I peeked inside the intake and wiped the TB down as best as I can. My intake is cleaner than I expected, except a small puddle of what looks like engine oil at the bottom of it. Not sure if it has anything to do with my recently worse mileage. How / do I need to / clean that up without taking out the intake?
  13. As I posted elsewhere I am switching a bad 2001 transmission with a 1998 unit. I want to keep the vehicle speed sensor from the 01 provided that it is not damaged, but I cannot get it out. There is supposed to be just one bolt holding it, but it won't budge in any direction after that bolt is out. I can't pry, I can't twist. Is there some secrets to pulling it? I have had 3 transmissions through my hands and I could not pull the VSS on any of them.
  14. Let us know what you find in the transaxle when you drain the oil. Which oil were you running in the transaxle? I found a mixture of relatively big metal chunks, shavings, shiny debris, metal slurry. First fill since the manual swap was 2qt Royal Purple MaxGear 75w90; 2 years later it was changed to 1qt MT90 and 1qt motomaster semi-synthetic. I have one unopened bottle of MT90 remaining. Plan to buy one more then use that to fill the replacement. I have located a 2000 tranny locally for $605. Listed as 144k. Is it a good idea to arrange a rebuild of that before installing? I would have bought a few more tools to replace it myself, but family vehemently insists that I pay a shop for the job. Looks like plan would be MWR chromoly flywheel while the trans is out, reman/rebuilt stock transmission, MT90 fill, and probably a stainless steel clutch hose and a longer push rod. Could be that my clutch is not disengaging fully when depressed.
  15. Thanks. Knowing C60 can go in without issues is a relief. Matt @ MWR doesn't know 8th gens that well. I need to drain the oil and look for metal. If I don't find anything there I'll need to tear it down to find out. At that point I'd probably just get a Quaife and bring it to a local shop for install together with a reman. Is the axle different? A not so related question - did Toyota shorten the final drive for 9th gen C59? I read about a MR-S swap that mentions going for a 98-02 C59 for the tall final drive. From that thread, final drive are: C60 USDM=4.529 (!!!) C60 EUDM/MWR=3.941 C59 98-02=3.722 C59 03+=3.941 C56 ZZT230=3.250 Top gear in my gen of C59 may already be 0.725 so I can't probably get more FE benefits without getting a 3.25 diff gear installed.