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  1. Hello! Thank you for the reply. I'll give it a try! I did remove the throttle body and cleaned all the connections - I believe the TPS is built into the throttle body. However, I have not cleaned the speed sensor. I'll have to look up where that is and clean the connections. This started prior to any fluid changes. I performed a series of drain and fills after I first noticed the problem and it continued. It's probably due for another round of drain and fills, but I don't think it will have much effect. Thank you again for your help.
  2. Hello everyone! I am resurrecting an old topic, sort-of. I posted about this previously thinking it was a tranaxle problem, but I'm not sure it is anymore... I have a 2010 Corolla S with 153,000 miles on it. If I am traveling down the road in overdrive doing 45+ mph, life is good. On occasion, if I need to accelerate, the kick-down from OD to third or second is occasionally met with a very hard jolt that has a very expensive feel to it. This winter, it became so bad that I took it in to the transmission shop to have it looked at. $100 and a full diagnostic with drive test later they said they couldn't replicate the issue, the fluid looked great, pressure was great, and everything appears to be running just fine. They were confident that there was a lot of life left in the transmission. I wish I could remember, but they also said they cleared a computer or module and wanted me to see if that helped. And, for a little time, it did seem to help a little. But it wasn't long before the problem returned. Just as I was thinking I should take it in again and drive with them, the weather changed from cold to warm and the problem has gone away. But I suspect it will be back in the colder weather. This is a reputable transmission shop that does good work, so I don't doubt them that the diagnostics came back clear. But if that's the case, what else could be the problem? Downshifts, as if I was coming to a stop, are smooth - but when stopped I notice my engine hunting for a smooth idle speed between 750 and 1,000 RPM, which is kind of unusual and rough until it figures things out. It's only during kick-downs and it's hard to predict when it will happen until just before it occurs. While it is unpredictable, I can tell when it's about to happen a couple seconds before it jolts. Usually when I give more throttle, the kick-down feels "normal" and somewhat immediate. When the problem is about to occur, I give more throttle and the car doesn't accelerate or it will try to accelerate while in OD (with little success) for about three or four seconds - then all the sudden, bang, and you're in third or second. However, if I feel the hesitation and I let off the gas a little and then force the kick-down again, it's usually okay. I've had the problem occur when I need hard WOT acceleration right away and I've had it happen with lazy, barely giving gas to pass the car in front, throttle inputs. I'm wondering if there are any ideas or suggestions on what to check or replace. I've cleaned the MAF, which was a long shot, and my throttle body is spotless. I've read it could be a catalytic converter could be plugged, a bad TPS, bad fuel pump, and bad speed sensor. But, all of of those things have costs Associated with them and I would rather not guess at a fix and spend money on something unnecessary. Thank you for reading!
  3. Hi guys - sorry it's taken me so long to get back. I have used the Toyota WS fluid purchased straight from the dealer's parts counter. I have to slide under soon for an oil change anyway, I'll let out a tad then. I'll give the spark plugs a shot too. Thank you for the replies!
  4. Hello everyone! It's been a long time since I've been on, but I have an issue that's kind of stumping me. It's a 2010 Corolla S, automatic, with 130,000 miles and been in a semi-major front end accident a few years ago and repaired. A few years back, I came to the forum asking about hard shifts. It was recommended that I perform a few drain and fill style ATF changes. I did four or five of those over the span of 30,000 miles so I could cycle out as much old fluid as I could without doing a flush. The shifting seemed to get better so I chalked it up to a success and went on with life. Over the last year, I've noticed the rough shifting coming back little at a time. Recently, it's become quite noticeable and actually starting to concern me. From a stop and accelerating from 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and OD, all is well and no issues. The issue is with downshifts from OD to 3rd or 2nd, especially when I need to pass someone. I will give a decent amount of throttle and it drops out of overdrive and waits... Then shifts into second. Almost like it missed third gear altogether and went to second. On the times it does find third, it lands into gear pretty hard and you can feel it jerk into gear. The concern is not only that something is wrong, but it's also starting to cause a safety issue. I'm not an overly aggressive driver, but if I see an opening in heavy traffic, I'll punch it to merge in. I've had the downshift hesitate long enough that the spot in traffic that I was clear to enter without any issues now has traffic bearing down on me with quickly and I'm stuck with puny acceleration until the car wakes up and downshifts. This issue isn't constant and I can't always recreate it. Some days it drives like a brand new car and other days it seems like it's time to trade her in. I checked my ATF this morning and I noticed that it was a little past the full mark when hot, so it could be overfilled, but not by a whole lot. I also noticed that it wasn't shiny red on my rag when I checked it. Not brown, but more of a maroon color and did not smell burnt. I could drain a little, but I'm not sure that will make a difference. I will mention that I'm running the original spark plugs. That seems like a random comment and I know I'm way overdue on changing them... But I started to think that maybe a general lack of power due to old plugs is causing an issue where the transmission is making up for the loss by shifting me back an extra gear when in normal conditions it wouldn't do that?. I'm honestly not sure. Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome. Thank you!
  5. Hi everyone. I was on the forum for a different topic and I remembered that I fixed the problem that I originally wrote about in this post about. Better late than never to update everyone with the fix. Based on a suggestion by Fishexp101 that the bendix spring in the starter was sticking and staying engaged too long, I performed an easy test... With the car already running, I turned the key to start it. It made the exact same grinding noise I heard on cold morning startups. I knew then that the starter had to be the issue. I ordered a refurbished Denso starter from RockAuto. In less than an hour I had the new starter installed and no issues ever since. After removing the old part, I checked out the teeth on the starter and they were starting to wear down, so I'm really glad I replaced it before it got too bad. I hope that helps someone out because it seems to be a fairly common issue for the 2009 - 2013 Corollas.
  6. Thanks again for all your help!
  7. It's funny - I have such a dislike for all the Toyota dealerships near me that even though it's a TSB and would be fixed for free, I'm going to buy the adjusters and do it myself. Thank you Dom for finding the TSB - I feel much better knowing Toyota acknowledges the issue and agrees with my Assessment on the adjusters. At least I know I won't be throwing away my money on a guess! Thanks again!
  8. Look at that! I had no idea that was released! Thank you very much for your help.
  9. Hello! 2010 Corolla S with 112,000 miles. I have an issue with my braking power and I believe it has to do with the adjusters on my read drums. I'm looking for confirmation on my thoughts or suggestions on what else to look for. I noticed a couple years ago that my brakes started to get soft and it seemed like my braking power was reduced. I thought about bleeding the brakes, but procrastinated on doing it. During my procrastination period, I researched it more and decided I would try to adjust the rear brakes. Took off the wheels, freed the drums, and started to adjust. I was immediately struck by the number of times I had to turn the adjustment gear to get the brake shoes to drag on the drums. Once I was happy with the adjustment, I put it all back together. Success! Better braking and less brake pedal travel. As an added bonus, I didn't have to pull the hand brake through the sunroof to engage! Three months later, same pedal travel and soft brakes. Climbed under, readjusted, and once again I was good to go! And here we are again with the same issue months later. It never seems to get worse past a certain point, but it is pretty annoying to have to keep doing this when the brakes are supposedly self adjusting. I've tried all the suggestions out there by driving backwards and slamming the brakes, pulling the hand brake repeatedly, all kind of weird stuff. The adjustment wheel moves freely, but no matter what I do, they don't seem to stay adjusted or tight for very long. Am I wrong in thinking something's up with the adjusters. I will say in December 2013 I was in an accident where the front end was pretty banged up. The shop put it all back together, but it seems like the brakes started to get funky after that. I'm wondering if the accident introduced air in the lines and the repair shop didn't bleed them properly. But if that was the case, would get get a firmer pedal and better braking after an adjustment? You would think if it was air in the brake lines that it would stay mushy even after an adjustment - which isn't the case.
  10. Hello! I'm resurrecting this thread. I finally have time to bleed the brake fluid. I purchased Lucas DOT3. However, it hit me that Toyota sometimes uses special fluids in their cars and I read about an Avalon recall that said aftermarket fluid could damage a seal in the master cylinder. Does anyone know if the 2010 Corollas are tolerant to aftermarket brake fluid? Thanks! Mike
  11. As always, thank you for the help and advice!
  12. Hello all - 2010 S with 89,000 miles. My question today is about brake bleeding. About 3 years ago, I changed the pads and rotors but never bled the brake fluid. Lately, I feel like my pedal is softer than usual. I'm going to check the pad material and replace if necessary, but I've never bled brakes before. Just never came up - but I'm sure it needs it because the fluid is nasty and probably has contaminants in it. I've read up on the procedure for general brake bleeding, but now it's time to ask about my specific car. I ask specifically because the FSM states I should bleed the master cylinder, the ABS actuator, and the brake lines. Do I need to bleed all three, or can I get away with just doing the brake lines with the bleeders on the calipers and drums? Also, since it has ABS, I read that I should do this with the ignition in the ACC position (not on). True, or doesn't matter?
  13. When this happened to my '01 Corolla in the rear, it was because the rear shocks were totally bad. When this happened in the front of my '03, it was just after I replaced the front struts. Turns out the large nut on top of the strut under the grease cap needed to be tightened more.
  14. Hello Dom, thank you for your reply. I use 0w20 synthetic and was thinking I may switch to 5w20 or even 5w30, just in case oil thickness is the issue. Now that the temperatures are slowly going up in Pennsylvania, I'll have to wait for next winter to see if the problem returns. It only seems to be a problem when the nights get really cold. Also, thank you for posting the TSB. My VIN is just outside the covered vehicles and I can't get anyone to look at it. :-( Thanks! Mike
  15. Hi all, I have a 2010 Corolla S, automatic with 68,000 miles. Bascially, I have a Corolla that *sometimes* makes a rattle/grind noise for about a second during cold startup on cold days. I see there's a TSB out there for the camshaft timing gear on some 2009 Corollas, but of course my VIN is not elegable for the repair. Plus, my car's mileage is past the warranty - the issue occurred well within the warranty period, but the dealerships could never recreate the issue. So, I'm stuck. I emailed Toyota Corporate and basically got a "sorry, can't help you" response. My questions are: 1) Is this something I can tackle myself without a ton of effort or is this something I should take into the shop? 2) If I let someone else fix it, what would a job like this run so I can shop around and find a decent price. 3) Most importantly, is this an issue that needs to be fixed, or is it just an annoying sound? If it doesn't cause any damage, problems, or pose any safety concerns, I may just deal with it. Mike