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About bobs88

  1. I have a switch on the drivers side that locks the passenger side so it won't open from the inside. Could that be tripped? It's obvious and you've probably checked it if you have one but thought I would throw it out there.
  2. Hello. Can you tell me where this sensor is located? Mounted on the side of the airbox (which houses the air filter) I have a sensor that has 2 vacuum lines going to it and a 2 pin electrical connection/harness. I think this is the air intake sensor but not sure. My multimeter readings will not stop to get a reading (with engine off) and I am wondering if I am on the right sensor. My book says about 1000 ohms at 68 air temp. I'm checking this for a stalling problem when coming to a stop. My egr system, vacuum, coolant sensor, timing, IAC are all cleaned and checked. I'm stumped!
  3. Thanks. Interesting about the egr valve. I had it off during the rebuild, including the assembly going to the exhaust manifold and cleaned them out really well (though did not spray anything on the EGR diaphragm itself...I read that could damage it so I just cleaned the pipes). No carbon left so I don't believe anything is blocked. The modulator which sits next to the egr valve appears good also. The bvsv also pAsses my manuals test procedure. I'll try your procedure for the IAC...good idea about cutting slots in the screws. It has 200k miles on it and never been cleaned so I'm hoping that is the culprit.
  4. Great, thanks for your advice. It stalls only when slowing down to a stop, for instance when hitting traffic from 65 mph or coming to a stop on an offramp. And then only some of the is not predictable. Sometimes after a stretch of highway and then hit city traffic, rpm's will drop to 500 or so and be rough idling in traffic. Shifting to neutral does not change it. Blipping the throttle can bring up the idle to normal sometimes. Throttle wide open there is no problem. I was hoping that by disconnecting the EGR that would give me the answer, but the problem was still happening so I don't think the EGR valve itself is the suspect. I have not found any vacuum leaks and this was happening before the rebuild too. The timing is good. Could this be the IAC? It seems those also cause stalling issues and unfortunately I'll need to take mine to a machine shop to have them remove the 4 phillips screws (3 of them are frozen and half stripped at this point).
  5. member here. I am original owner of an 88 GTS 4AGE 5 speed, fresh rebuild (but this problem was happening before the rebuild). It stalls (or at least the idle drops so low it wants to stall) after slowing down...usually after warmed up and driving on the freeway. After reading up, I feel it's the EGR or the IAC (both original) though please educate me as there are also the VSV and MAP sensor that could be problems too. Fix #1: I checked and adjusted change. Also, fuel injectors and fuel filter are good. Fix #2: I removed the throttle body to clean the IAC but the 4 screws holding it on are frozen and I cannot remove it so I just sprayed it as best I could. No change. Fix #3: I used a vacuum pump on the EGR, and the diaphragm slowly loses half its vacuum over about a minute...does this mean it's bad?. My manual states that the vacuum should be low at 3500 rpm and zero at 5000 rpm and it isn' has some vacuum at 3500 but does not change to 0 at 5000 rpm. As an experiment I temporarily disconnected the EGR (plugged the vacuum line going to it) and did some freeway driving to see if the problem would stop, but it hasn't. Does this "check" eliminate the EGR as being the culprit? Thanks in advance for a long question.