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eyevahn

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About eyevahn

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  1. Replaced ignition coil with new oem denso coil. Reset CEL, 45 min test drive and no hesitation, no misfires, no CEL. I'm expecting p0420 to come back but wouldn't miss it if not. Interestingly, the bad coil was not oem and the other 3 are all oem denso's. Somehow I never noticed this before. Here's to many unhindered miles ahead.
  2. So with a scanner, my father-in-law and I watched the cylinders for misfires. Of course nothing while the engine was cool and then 15-20 mins later it started reading a constant misfire on cylinder 2 (P0302). So, we swapped coils with cylinder 4 and then got a constant misfire on cylinder 4. Looks like I have a bad ignition coil. I am hoping all the other codes are related to the misfire since they started at the same time. Kicking myself for spending $150 on an O2 sensor before running the scanner... oh well. I have ordered an ignition coil, crossing fingers.
  3. Vehicle: 2002 Corolla 5sp, 180k miles Problem history: Hesitation, burning 1qt of oil every 200 miles, P0420 Repair history: I rebuilt the engine, completely fixed the oil consumption problem, no problems with hesitation for several months (cold months) Current issue: Recently, with the change to warmer weather it seems, my car has been having some hesitation issues again. After rebuilding the engine I still had the P0420, I thought it may be the catalytic converter but decided not to replace since the car was driving fine. Most of the places I drive take about 15-20 mins to get to which is about how long my car will drive without any issues. It literally drives flawlessly for 15-20 mins but then something changes (switch from open loop to closed loop?). When the issues start, the engine misfires, has lean/rich issues, jerky acceleration, etc. When this started I was curious on what codes it was throwing so I scanned and pulled P0300, P0302, P0125, P0135, P0420(always on), and P0505. I was like holy crap, what's going on. I thought since the car seemed to be running flawlessly initially (open loop?) and then having problems when it warmed up (closed loop?) it may be the front o2 sensor. I had changed out the o2 sensors with Denso's from rockauto when I rebuilt the engine. I decided to go ahead and replace the front sensor with a denso oem from toyota which helped the issue but has not fixed it. What else could cause this? The fact that I can drive 15-20 mins with perfect acceleration and idling and then switch over to misfiring/jerking accelerating/rough idling confuses me. I will be doing some more diagnostics after borrowing a good scan tool from a friend. Anything I should be looking for? Thanks.
  4. 4000 mile update: My corolla is still running like brand new. Zero oil consumption and a ton more power than before. I highly recommend anyone with oil consumption problems with the 98-02 corollas to do the rebuild. I spent a total of around $1000 doing it myself which was about half parts, half tools. I bought a lot of toyota OEM parts, I could have saved a few hundred by going aftermarket but I had enough money set aside for the project. I plan on driving this car till the wheels fall off.
  5. I was having severe oil consumption with my 2002 corolla s at 173k miles. Around 1 qt per 150-200 miles. While in the midst of rebuilding the engine I found that all of my exhaust valves were out of clearance but my intake valves were good. I ended up ordering all new exhaust valve lifters, 8x$20ea, which fixed the issue. I didn't think the process was too difficult. Just need to remove the valve cover to check clearances, if adjustments are needed, get new lifters and remove the cams to get to the lifters. I used a haynes manual for walk-through and torque specs.
  6. I owned a 2006 corolla till someone ran a light and totaled it, no issues with it, was a great car. I now own a 2002 manual corolla s w/ 174k miles, which I just recently finished rebuilding the engine on, runs great now. My wife drives a 2012 auto corolla le, with 60k miles. She mostly drives it but I do the maintenance. It gets a solid 32 mpg. It uses 0W-20 oil and toyota recommends changing every 10k miles. I haven't taken it that far on an oil change yet but it does stay clean up till around 6-7k miles. The transmission fluid is good for 100k miles, which is pretty nice. It has a slight burn smell to it but looks good, I prob won't go the full 100k. I'll be changing the brakes this weekend for the first time. My wife uses the bluetooth every day and the sound system is pretty good. I'd say the only complaint is that it feels under-powered, but it's a corolla. I had a WRX and G35 for a while as well, so I expect power in those, not in a corolla. I think if you're looking for reliability and a solid investment, corolla is the best way to go. The S is a little sportier looking but again, don't expect to be pulling away from lights with any kind of power.
  7. Okay, I may just hold off then. The 20-25 qts of oil were Mobile1 Synthetic. My only worry is whether or not the cat will cause any kind of back pressure that could harm all the work I did to the engine. I'll clear the code and drive it a bit more and see how it goes. It's still driving great. I got 36mpgs with 50/50 city/hwy on the first tank. I was getting around 32-33 pre-rebuild.
  8. Update: 360 miles after the rebuild and the oil level has still not moved off the full mark. That's pretty exciting given that I would have used about 1.5-2 qts in 360 miles pre-rebuild. The car feels like it has so much more power now and runs great with a perfect idle. The only negative is that the P0420 code came back on. So now I am pretty sure I should replace the catalytic converter. Considering that the 8 months before rebuilding the engine I burned through 20-25 quarts of oil in 5000 miles, I am ****uming the cat has to be bad. The downstream o2 sensor was completely black when I replaced it. So, I am looking at rockauto.com and can get a walker ultra direct fit cat for $185. I am trying to save money so am considering cutting the old one off myself and using a band clamp connection to put the new one on. There are only a few local places that will weld it on for me without providing the part as well, best price I can find is $150 for labor. So $150 in labor or $10 band clamp, if possible. I've never used them so I don't know if that realistic or not. Just thinking it'd be a cheap alternative to welding. Any thoughts?
  9. Well, I am happy to report that everything has been put back together and I fired it up today for the first time. I have only driven it 20 miles so far, but it feels like a new car compared to what I was driving before this project. The funny thing is, I suspected a bad catalytic converter from the beginning but that is the only part I have not replaced. It has new denso o2 sensors, almost every part replaced was toyota oem or dnj from rockauto.com. I did the 1zzfe oil consumption fix youtube walkthrough exactly as he did in the video. No CELs yet, but the huge hesitation issue I was having is completely gone. So here's the question, if its running perfect now, do I have a good catalytic converter even though the original CEL was cat related?
  10. I pulled the chain off and tried again, it looks perfect now. The timing marks on both sprockets line up perfectly level with the head right as the TDC hits zero. I continued to crank to make sure the yellow marks made there way to the correct spot and they came around, both 1 link to the left of the timing marks as the other set of timing marks were level with the head, and TDC exactly zero. I went ahead and put the valve cover on and now am in the process of putting it all back together. I've got a question though, should I replace the camshaft, crankshaft, and temperature sensors? If they test out okay with a multimeter do I ****ume they are okay or do I replace them since they are most likely original?
  11. So I've got the camshafts torqued down. I've got the chain on the sprockets, but when the dots lineup the TDC line on the pulley is about half an inch forward from the 0 spot. Shouldn't they line up at exactly TDC 0?
  12. Thanks for the advice, I think that's what I'll do. I'll put it all back together, connect my exhaust manifold, leave that next bent pipe piece on, install a new O2 sensor, then fire it up. I talked to a local muffler/exhaust shop and he said he can do the catalytic converter and that my muffler is probably still good. What do you think? Do mufflers go bad with this oil consumption issue? Also, what o2 sensors do you recommend? He says he uses denso, but his price is over $100 a piece. I can get both for $100 on rockauto.com.
  13. Sounds good. I may just try the soak and scrub method. Honestly though, once I soak and scrub all the loose stuff off, will it really matter if there's still a layer of carbon? Originally I was worried that without a spotless manifold it would eventually ruin the air thus the o2 sensors and catalytic converter, but is this true? Will any of that caked on carbon change the air that much to have any negative affects downstream on my exhaust? Also, once I get the engine all ****embled and ready to go, I want to make sure that it actually runs and doesn't leak or anything. But I also want to put a new exhaust on the car. My worry is if for some reason the engine blows up or becomes inoperable, I will have wasted a new exhaust. After ****embling the engine could I just have the exhaust manifold on and nothing below that on the exhaust? I wouldn't have any 02 sensors connected, but would that make much difference? I would only do it to run the engine for a bit to check for leaks and sounds etc. Then after everything checks out I will install the new exhaust.
  14. Thanks for the offer, dom, but I need sizes 16-30. I just ordered toyota oem valve lifters. Between the 8 new ones ordered, my clearance will ideally be 0.011-0.012 on all exhaust valves. I've had to put my project on hold because my college schedule got really busy. Anyways, while I wait for my lifters to come in, how can I clean my exhaust manifold? The entire inside is caked with thick black carbon/burnt oil residue. I read somewhere that you can leave it submerged in water to break it up. I've also seen oven cleaner with a power washer. Any thoughts? Thanks.
  15. When you replaced the O2 sensors were they charred? And the Cat, was it plugged up both times? How's your oil consumption?