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autotech2612

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About autotech2612

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  • Birthday August 17
  1. Scanning was exactly what I wanted to do. But, my friend removed the battery. Knowing I would not have the check engine light, I still put the battery back in. CEL off. I don't leak oil, I have a tremendous burning problem. Oil light did not come on while stopped at the light. There was some oil in the engine, because it appeared on the dipstick after I put one quart in. And, I heard no unusual sounds before and after I lost power. Oil pressure sensor? Did the ECU use its safety mode to shut down the engine and not allow re-start until it has been replaced?
  2. I am unable to understand what is wrong with my Corolla this time. Drove 5 miles one night, with 3.5 of them on the highway at 55mph. No unusual noises, behavior, etc. Drove to a flashing red light. Came to a complete stop for 15 seconds. No oil light illuminated. Turned left and about 30 feet into driving, my car lost acceleration. Shifting from second to third was not getting me to acceleration. Then came to a complete stop and engine was not running. No sounds beforehand. Had it pushed into a gas station parking area. Lights illuminated, including instrument lights when the key was turned to the "ON" position. Attempting to start the car, nothing. No noise, no attempting to start, completely silent. In the "ON" position, the OIL light was on...and remained on. My car had never shown the oil light when the engine was off. Fuel pump and starter are not at fault. Clutch safety switch was looked at, but my friend "rigged" it so the car would allegedly start with clutch engaged or not. No change. However, before the clutch safety switch was even looked at, I tried to start the car with the clutch pedal NOT depressed. Nothing. No oil was on the dipstick at the gas station. I put oil in - a quart - and oil did appear on the dipstick. In the "ON" position, the oil light is still illuminated. I would very much appreciate advice and assistance you may offer. Ryan
  3. After more research, 2004 seemed to be a more trouble-free year. But, 2003 had leftover oil consumption problems and 2009 was a pretty bad year. Of course, some get a lucky one. I drive very gently, knowing this problem after I bought it. It just suddenly happened all at once I have to have a manual transmission, which is why I asked which years were having problems. Also, the EVAP codes in my 2002 have been there forever.
  4. I found this from 2014, where dom responded. 2004 would be more affordable for me anyway. Anything new crop up in 2004-2008? I've heard manual transmissions had issues. https://www.corolland.com/forums/index.php?/topic/25302-problems-with-post-2002-corolla-matrix/?hl=%2Boil+%2Bburning
  5. My 2002 with 278,000 is finally burning oil, one quart every 500 miles. I'm looking for another Corolla and I think I recall Fishexpo stated 2004 to 2008 Corollas didn't have a consumption issue. Starting in 2009, several articles have mentioned the Corolla went back to burning oil until 20011 or 12. Willing still to go with a Matrix, as I talked to Fishexpo about those too. One last question: when did Toyota fix those evap systems under the car to get rid of the 3 common evap codes? (On Corollas) What years?
  6. I see at my local Meijer store, Quaker State has a five gallon jug of of full-synthetic 5W-20 for my roommate's Accord for $50. Apparently this is good for a year. No clunking or tapping noises on my Corolla. It was a nice surprise, however, to pull out those plugs and not see carbon/soot/oil
  7. Fish, what I don't understand is how water got in there. Coil packs are at the top. I have a hood. With the hood up, there was no water anywhere. I drove through deep water to get that result. Just glad it's not engine damage...
  8. Good news: Removed the coil pack closest to the battery and upon removal, water was dripping from it. Bingo. Removed the coil pack next to it, also some water, but not nearly as much as the first one removed (cylinder #3) The factory O-ring / seal on the coil pack closest to the battery was torn. Used an air compressor to dissipate moisture. Removed all coil packs. Put in a set I had (Denso) from a Vibe Used a wire brush on the Denso Iridium plugs -- amazingly no carbon build-up and no oily plugs. Reinstalled the plugs, installed the "new" coil packs. Back to normal...
  9. Last night we had a large amount of rain in just a span of fifteen minutes. I drove over a lot of water in the road. So much, it pushed my splash shield under the alternator out of the way. I have always -- like the majority of us -- had the EVAP codes. Car was sputtering after the water last night. Left the garage door open, opened the hood and went to bed. Woke up at 4:00 p.m. to drive and it was misfiring badly. Stopped and scanned and a pending code has cylinder three misfire. During the misfiring on the highway, the CEL was blinking. After scanning, I filled the fuel tank (I had 1/4 tank left after all that rain) On the way home, it smoothed out noticeably. So, I went on to drive 1 1/2 hours straight highway to my current destination this evening. On the highway at 55, on the way to my destination this evening, no hiccups -- until I merged to the off-ramp, went to re-accelerate in third gear and the sputtering is back. It is my intention, arriving back home tomorrow, to remove the coil packs and take the plugs out to inspect. My thought is water mixed in with the fuel due to the EVAP leaks. Also tonight, arriving at my destination, I noticed that my car is not holding consistently on a small grade (stick shift) while in first or any gear. It started moving a little. Backed up, turned car off, put the car in second and it still moved a little. Ended up engaging the parking brake. Why did this start after all that rain? I will watch this topic periodically...
  10. So far, so good on it...but still hear a mechanical-growling (low sound) from time to time when idling fully-warmed up. Ever since Dom and you stated it, I have to be more careful about the oil level now. Before it was that low I was running synthetic blend. I have switched to conventional in the 85-94 degree outside temperatures and that has slowed consumption. Changed the oil today with another genuine Toyota 1ZZ filter at 8,000 miles. I do mostly highway driving.
  11. Napa synthetic blend 530 and conventional 530 Just got done driving 55 miles one way on highway, no issues and no unusual noises at idle; oil at halfway point on dipstick. The other day, I traveled roughly one day at 1.9 - 2.0 quarts low in mostly highway driving and a/c usage.
  12. Dom, I'm not trying to be rude/disrespectful and snub your help, but not everything -- with a busy person -- is going to happen immediately. Many things won't be addressed until Autumn 2017. Thank you for your assistance.
  13. Haven't been on here in awhile, except to ask about the Matrix last month Heard a funny noise two nights ago idling, like I had low oil. Turns out I was two quarts low. Filled to mid-point on stick with Napa 530 synthetic blend I did run the car for 15-20 minutes on the highway the day prior in fourth gear at 55mph with a/c on. Not sure why I wasn't in 5th. Since filling, the car sounds back to normal. I'm now at 268,000 on original engine. Do you really think I harmed anything, considering the car takes 3.4 quarts? Need to keep this car a few more years.
  14. I'm still looking at the Matrix, but apparently the 2006 and 2007 models were the most reliable with the 2009 being the worst? Has to be a stick, but I mostly see automatics.
  15. 262,000 miles and using Toyota filters every 8,000 mi. Syn. Blend