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Everything posted by smug

  1. I be thinking too much. I still use Mobil 5W30. If it aint broke don't think so much about it.
  2. Since new always used Moble 1 and did all oil/filter changes myself. 1ZZFE is a noisy thing. Its noisy on start up and then when warm is quieter @115k miles. Retired now no longer driving 10-12K miles yearly. More like stop n go around town...5K miles yearly. Rotella might be better oil with the HD additives than Mobil 1 I've heard. Quieter, better stop n go protection. Anyone using Rottela T6 ? I think i give it try. See if quieter.
  3. Since retiring I don't drive the Corolla that much and have been away from the forum. When i bought my 04 new and started driving to work i noticed braking was slowly become poor. One day i had to make a panic stop. Scary. Took car back to dealer and explained situation. They readjusted the rear drums and asked if i used the hand brake any. NO, no need to i said. I was informed on my generation the handbrake adjust the rear drums. Was told to pull on it half dozen or so times and to use it whenever parked. Problem solved. Couple time i did have drums manually adjusted as a courtesy by my family tech/mechanic. Helped.
  4. When starting cold during rude Chicago winters it fires up fine and idles. Within a few moments the idle climbs to about 2k and slowly drop down to usual idle. If not real cold, just below or around freezing may not do it at all. What components should i be checking. 04 115k miles, mostly self maintained, have factory manuals. All original electrical components, sensors. Fresh plugs. Thanks.
  5. I too have TRD springs they help with crosswinds and just make the car a better car IMHO.
  6. Delayed responce, When Chicagoland winter eases will check sway bar end links, and inner tie rod ends. Replace sway bar bushes while back. Narrowed rattle down to hitting a bump at specific angle. Thanks dom.
  7. Let me put it this way...anybody know if a Toyota Tech would have a sequence to start a check of typical front supension components, bushings etc. for wear that could cause mystery rattles ? Said components on 1st post were replaced. There is no particular rattle driving my nuts. The front end is nice and tight, aligned all the basic is good. I have factory manuals. It could be an old car that under certain bumps make different noises. Checked the inner wheel well liners, under engine plastic shields etc. getting old is not fun.
  8. Can someone give me the sequence to eliminate front end components for rattle/wear, At 96k, new struts, ball joints, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings. now 109k, well cared for. thanks
  9. Hello, 04 corolla has front end rattle. At 96k new struts,ball joints , control arm bushings, wheel bearing/wear checked, sway bar bushings r/r. now 109k, well maintained. With this in mind, can those in the know give me a sequence to check front end components and narrow down and eliminate causes. Thanks.
  10. No No, the R n R for the control arms my mechanic will do next thursday. Im curious. I had a 84 VW GTI hit some unmarked construction and bent a controll arm. No noticeable changes in handling. The mechanic said he straightened it for me. It was a very different type control arm thats simpler in design and can be straight edged and straightened with a vise and some force,when applicable. Thats long time ago. The corolla arm is nothing in comparison having no straight edges to gauge from. Just wondering if somebody knows of a way to check. Quality steel bicycle frame alignment can be determined using strings and tubes straightened. Been wondering if the corolla control arm was placed on a large flat surface something could be measured or checked or whatever. If a control arm is bent how would the car behave and steer? Curiosity.
  11. Anyone have experience,advise on how to check for a bent lower control arm for a home garage,shade tree mechanic? As in visual and straight edge simplicity. Car has no problems but i like to know. Might be doing the R n R myself for rear bushings and new ball joints. I got Whiteline rear bushings Dom. Having machine shop do the pressing, as you recommended. Doing ball joints too.
  12. Whiteline is much easier to find than Energy Suspensions bushes like yours. The E.S. bushes are what i want ,i can do it myself. Whiteline got that ' void angle' ,got no idea. I know what you mean the length of time can't be said. I keep looking for Energy Suspesion bushes, theres a lot of miss quoted part #'s and inaccurate application descriptions from vendors and EBAY. To many sound like the correct bushing but so far I've only found Whiteline to be correct bush. Thanks for all your help. I'll post my experience when finished. Maybe a while. I'd love to hand the job over to my mechanic. Ive recently retired and still adjusting to life on a limited fixed income. Every $ counts.
  13. Thanks for the helpful Toy Nation posts. Here it is... tools....ramps to drive onto for less jacking up,(then wheels removed) jack stands,floor jack, 12 ton bottle jack,factory jack,cheap HF impact gun,sockets,wrenches,etc..should i assume the impact wrench is a must tool? must borrow compressor. apparently must remove battery and surrounds to get to trans mount and loosen that. Crap! follow factory manual procedures,much of it like R n R sway bar bushings and end links which i just did. This time must unbolt ball joints and 4 steering rack bolts,separate from sub member. The stubborn horizontal bolt, not sure how you broke it loose. Impact wrench didn't work, so you joined bunch of 1/2 extensions onto the socket on the bolt long enough to stick out beyond front bumper. then fixed breaker bar to extension end and physically broke the bolt free? Did you have a jack stand support the extensions just before the breaker bar for a pivot/fulcrum point? Im an old guy with no helpers. You must be strong. On the Toy Nation posts somebody said its a 10 hour job,true? A lot of labor must go into removing stuff to get to the trans mount. The R n R of the rear bushings doesn't seem a great deal of labor. Especially using Energy Suspension bushings. Wonder when doing all this labor when it gets time to replace the bushings wish would have bought arms with bushings and bolt em right up. This will become a weekend job I'm sure,so I think the frustration from a lot labor will be manageable. Any advise on this? 10 hours? New arms more $ spent and the included bushings not as good as Energy Suspensions,Whiteline etc. Im cheap,sometimes that comes with a high price of another means.
  14. MMMM,well i just checked out White Line rears on Ebay. Top shelf quality. Wonder how much hassle,labor to press out the old and press in the new. When you changed your rear bushes you didn't think doing the front ?. How did you decide it wasn't necessary? A simple pry test? Myself being a home garage guy i figure if the rears are shot then the fronts aren't far behind. Maybe thats not the case. I'd like to learn from your experience............maybe just get rears and save more $.
  15. Im going with ES,just torch it,clean it and install. My style. Thanks for help.
  16. Well good for me i stumbled into it, thanks DOM. Couple ?'s. Thats quite a range of control arm prices and different manufactures. What i wonder is the quality of the bushings in the various price points. A Moog control arms bushing would have a higher quality than a Cardone or Beck Arny,thats what i believe we pay for. My driving style is spirited street at the most. TRD springs were installed at 9k miles. I'd like the replacements to outlast the OEM bushings,don't want do this again. So,me thinks is better quality ( different compound characteristics understood ) to go with Energy Suspensions #8.3120 front and rear bushing set ,use original control arms and do the labor,plus save some $. I found the installation PDF and its pretty straight forward. The welded in part on the vertical ,thats the metal sleeve inside the big hole i gather. Thats the only part appears could be welded in,all else comes out and the center OEM piece is reused. If i got this right,then its the bushing set. Might do new ball joints while I'm at it too.
  17. I got the day off and went under the car. There was no movement at 12 or 6 o'clock pushing or pulling tire. Like you said Dom i check the lower ball joint,wheel bearing and seemed fine. The suspension was off ground. I compared any movements to the other side,without tires also. This is just over my head. The only thing that i noticed a small difference was on the drivers side lower control arm. I could pry the control arm up at the rear bushing, the one that bolts vertically into crossmember/subframe. In comparison, the passengers side bushing made a squishing sound when pry up and took a bit more force . The drivers bushing made no squishing noise when pry up and would bottom out with little less force and make a metal on metal sound when bottomed out. Based on hearing the rattle inside the car it seems to be in that area and I'm wondering if under full weight of car thats the problem. But I'm not experienced with this. I pry the front lower control arm bushing,the one bolted horizontally and couldn't detect any play. Im going to take it to my mechanic,its beyond me and I'm just tired of dealing with it. If i knew what it was i'd give it a go,but i don't. Thanks Dom. One more comment, the rattle continues under breaking. A the car slows to a complete stop the rattling becomes more if the road is bumpy. So with the weight shifted to the front suspension under breaking it changes nothing rattle wise. That baffles me. Ive been assuming that id find something that was obviously worn or loose based on the rattle noise. The noise is such that what ever is rattling is really loose and moves freely. Maybe thats not the case ...the wear of a balljoint or bushing etc. doesn't have to be an obvious thing that moves about. But maybe a small movement of a worn component can make a lot of noise.
  18. thanks for the specifics dom. i'll check as you described this weekend. hope its not a wheel bearing.
  19. oops,failed to mention...04 auto,with 96k miles.
  20. The drivers front has this rattle on going for months. New struts,brakes last fall. Ive jacked up the front to many times grabbing suspension parts for movement and wear. After researching the forum,i replaced the sway bar bushings and end links. After torqueing front crossmember to spec i lowered the car,crossed fingers and took a drive. The rattle was much quieter and not as frequent. Still was not all gone,but better. Now after driving for a week the rattle is back as loud and frequent as before. The rattles characteristics are....its definitely drivers front suspension area. Turning right,thus loading the left(drivers side) the rattle is much more pronounced. Turning left,the rattle is minimal or none at all. It is speed specific. The slower the speed the more the rattle over bumps. At a 55mph cruise the rattle is not noticeable,speed comes down rattle gets louder. Im sure sway bar bushings,end links,struts,spring rubbers are fine. So i now wonder if i can tackle this myself. What else can fit the characteristics of the rattle ? Should i be checking ball joints,tie rod ends....what else? And should the suspension be unsprung (in air,tire off ground) when furthering the diagnostics? I could use some advice on what to check from here. Ive done everything i can thing of doing.
  21. Dom, if i understand you correctly...did you replace the front wheel bearings @ 60kmiles by choice or they were going bad? Next week in Chicagoland suppose to be 4-5 days of 40 degree temps. Time for a soggy look see under the front. Hopeing whatever it is its within my ability to R n R myself.
  22. no intent to hijack the thread,but its the same ? for me too. My complication is i have hearing damage and loss,also 'tinnitus' the constant ringing in the ear. ageing not fun. was a route driver useing small cars for the last 12 years. the constant road noise slowly damaged my ears more and more through the years. i would hear better at the begining of the route and worse at the end . My point ,seeking similar advice as the O.P. is. I need very,very quiet tires that will give good traction during the Chicagoland winters and wet seasons. a good 4 season tire,decent price thats a 'wisper of a ride" . mileage is least criteria. i bought set of toyo tires,dont recall what type. the salesman snowed me and claim 'quiet ride' and a better tire than what i wanted that was out of stock for same price. got size next size up that fit, 205 something,something. after few days realize tires were noisier and harder sidewall/tread compound. I know there are many 'off brand,name tires' made by major manufactuers to check into, personal experience ,advise welcome.
  23. heres my 2 cents from the average guy...i canged belt and tensioner about 90k. not hard at all got a' gates'belt and quality tensior(i researched the tensioner,forgot what manufactuer). didnt make sense to just change the belt only , the tensioner was makeing the chirping noise,now quiet. Hardest part for me wasnt loosening the motor mount bolts and raiseing it up,but rather looping the belt around the pulleys. i was the 3 stooges. i like Larry.
  24. i got a phone call and pulled into local park to talk. a hunderd ducks and geese surrounded the car i couldnt move. i hit the horn and no horn. the entire horn assembly that houses the air bag seemed unusaually loose and way to easy to move. eventually i got one honk out of it and that was it. as mentioned in another post reply its nasty winter in chicagoland ,no way for and old guy with no garage to be messing with the car. lost job last year suddenly, so no cash flow for my mechanic . I got factory manuals for the 04 corolla, i always try to do as much D.I.Y. as possible. all advice welcome. corroded contacts? Havent check fuses yet.