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the99contour

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Everything posted by the99contour

  1. Corolland Members, It is with deep regret that this evening I wrote Dave and informed him that effective immediately I am resigning my position as a moderator of this forum. Due to circumstances in my life, I am no longer able to devote the amount of time it takes for me to be an effective moderator for the membership of this forum and I do not feel it is fair to all of you for me to continue to occupy one of the limited number of moderator positions that are available on this forum when someone else with more time could be occupying that position. This occurred to me this week when I got almost 20 messages in my email about SPAM while I was at work and I was unable to do anything about it. I just kept thinking that the forum has been SPAM free since I was made the first forum moderator in 2005 and I was letting you all down by not jumping on here right away and removing it. It isn't right for me to have allowed that to happen and I'm sorry to any member who felt let down because of the SPAM on the forum. I just want to let everyone know that this forum has helped me immensely over the years to care for and maintain my Corolla and it has helped many co-workers and friends to do the same. I have also got a lot out of moderating this forum in terms of learning how to manage the various aspects of my life. I'll still be around when I can. Thanks to everyone who has helped me over the years here and a special thanks to Fish and Bitter for covering for me while I've been too busy to do my job here.
  2. So you got Etune with Navigation also, I see. Played with that yet? Just curious as to your impressions of it. I'm driving a 2012 Focus with SYNC and was just wondering how Etune compared.
  3. Nice car, looks a lot like mine, but mine is a 2010. I like the wheels on yours better. Any way you could post any interior pictures of the dash? I'm curious as to how that flat bottom steering wheel really looks and if the clock is any easier to read on top of the dash instead of behind the shifter. Looks like your old Corolla took a hit, hope you didn't suffer any injury other than the loss of the car. Anyway, congrats on your new purchase.
  4. Let's forget the interior and exterior styling because that's up to the individual as to if they like it. What I want to know is engine and transaxle changes and interior option content and feature availability.
  5. I don't keep hardly anything in the car, never open the glove box and never touch anything on the dash of the Focus. I'm 5'9" and 160 lb and have never hit anything on the Focus interior either. For me I'd rather have a Corolla that was more like a Focus. As for the Elantra, it lacks some feel but it has a nice feature set, the seats are hard but so are those in BMW and Mercedes Benz cars and people like those. The car looks slick and it might sound tinny but it does well in crash tests. If I wasn't somewhere so far from a Hyundai dealer I might consider one. If the 2013 Corolla isn't a very different car from mine or the price doesn't stay the same for a loaded one, I will look for another car, maybe a Prius.
  6. I drive a 2012 Ford Focus several times a week, it has a six speed "automatic" and it has all the right gears and never hunts for gears, shifts roughly or takes a while to shift. I have driven the five and six speed automatics in the Civic and Forte Koup and still like their shift logic better than the Corolla's. Did some cars have bad six speed programming two years ago, yep. I don't think they have the shift all the time issue anymore. My car isn't my closet or office or anything else either. I have the owners manual a small bottle of hand sanatizer and a chap stick in addition to my manual and insurance/ registration. However, I feel like soft touch materials are necessary because the competition has them. In addition, I feel the hvac is less than powerful. I have a remote start and while on the Focus the car will cool down in one ten minute start, the Corolla takes fifteen minutes. The seats lack any lumbar support and the rear seat headrests block the rear view. The two compartment console from the 9th generation is gone. The car also needs a better color scheme for the 'S' model, black is hot and hard to keep clean. I'm no saying I dont like my car, I do. I have most of the toys so it's a decent car but some things about it are cheap. I bought the car because of the payments being reasonable and my experience with Toyota. It isn't like I would take it back, but I would have liked a Bluetooth system and a dual level console with a soft lid.
  7. I totally disagree with everyone here on keeping the Corolla the same, a change would be welcome, just to keep things fresh. The Corolla remains a solid car, but its near the end of its life cycle and newer cars have come out recently that are serious competition for it. If Toyota wants to keep up with the Civic, Focus and Cruze, they will change the car and we know they want to keep up. A more upscale interior and some more luxury oriented options like leather, heated seats and climate control would be welcome additions.
  8. I just turned over 13,000 miles on my 2010 'S' I got it June 28th, 2010, so I've had it for a couple months less than 2 years. It sits a lot and I really only drive shorter trips. Most of the miles that she's had put on her are highway miles driving from Michigan to Ohio to visit family.
  9. You need two things. The car is already fitted with the antenna. What you need is the tuner and fit kit. The fit kit includes the wiring and mounting bracket. firsttoyotaparts.com is a good resource with good pricing.
  10. Sorry to hear about your accident but at least you're ok. As far as the insurance, you can argue with them on the value somewhat, but generally there is a value that they will not go over when replacing your car. I own a 2010 Corolla 'S' and I have a couple of things you should check for. Firstly, make sure the trunk opens with the inside release and key as well as the remote and closes easily. If it doesn't, insist they apply the tsb to correct this issue before driving off with the car. Secondly you need to visually inspect the serpentine belt. If it has any cracking, splits or fraying, it needs replaced. Certain 2010 Corollas were fitted with a poor quality belt. It was supposed to be replaced under TSB, but sometimes dealers don't inspect such things so its something you need to watch out for. Thirdly, look at the tires. Most likely they are Goodyear Eagle RS-A variety. Those tires wear fast and don't work well in rain or snow once they are more than half worn. If the tread depth is less than 5/32", they are half worn. Other than that, there are just a couple of things to pay attention to. The clock is in a bad place, under the climate controls. The trip computer is on the left display under the tachometer and it can only display 1 piece of information at once, forcing you to toggle to display the outside temperature. The optitron gauges are really bright and the dimmer switch is the trip odometer reset knob, awkward to turn and it isn't dependent on outside lighting. What that means is that if you dim the gauges at night when your headlights are on, in the morning when your lights are off, you're still going to have dimmed gauges, its a constant adjustment. The electric power steering takes some getting used to also.
  11. BUMP up due to a move to this sub forum.
  12. That is one nice looking ride. It also looks to be fully loaded and in really good shape for a car with almost 50,000 km on it. I've always been impressed by Subaru vehicles. As an engineer, their attention to detail and the philosophy of better driving and safety through engineering (I.E. using extra bearings in the wheel bearings, symmetrical AWD and a boxer engine to lower the center of gravity) has always set especially well with me. As I now live in Michigan and the weather here is a little harsh in the winter, I have been considering a Subaru more than ever. I was actually looking at a 5 speed 2012 Impreza 2.0i Premium earlier today and I was really happy with what I was looking at. It's entire driving feel is better than that of the Corolla, and when equipped with alloy wheels, sunroof and the all weather package, a 2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0i Premium with a 5 speed costs about a thousand dollars more than my 2010 Corolla S Auto, but for that extra grand you get heated seats and windshield, bluetooth connectivity and sirius plus the AWD. The interior is nicer, better put together and more thoughtfully designed, like the clock isn't in front of the gear selector as on my Corolla. The fuel economy is less, but I really don't care about that as my Corolla no longer gets anywhere near the ratings with my short trips to work and around town and for the extra traction AWD gives you in winter, I'd sacrifice some MPG. Toyota used to have a class leader in the Corolla, but not anymore. The Impreza, Civic, Mazda3, Cruze and Focus are all better cars IMHO. I currently have a 2012 Focus and it is a better car in every way than my 2010 Corolla is, but it still has the problem of being a FWD car which is what I'm trying to get away from. I don't want to drive my F150 all winter because of snow, it gets 12mpg in city driving, so it seems like the Subaru would be a good choice. Anyway, congrats on the new ride, hope you enjoy it.
  13. My Corolla is a NUMMI built car, and vehicles built there have slid in terms of build quality since I bought my first NUMMI built Corolla. I will be calling Toyota Customer Satisfaction on this issue because as you said, it was a safety concern and it was due to a defective part.
  14. Fellow Corolland members, I have the issue with my trunk resolved and there is good news and bad news surrounding this situation. The good news, my trunk now works correctly, the bad news is that they charged me to fix it. The car is well below 12,000 miles, but just over 12 months in service and Toyota only pays to adjust things within the first 12 months or 12,000 miles whichever comes first, so I was asked to pay for the repair. Luckily because of my knowledge of automotive engineering, I was able to argue with them that the problem was that the self centering bolts used to attach the striker to the body caused a misalignment between the striker and the trunk latch. I argued with them that my trunk lid isn't perfectly aligned side to side and so if the latch is perfectly centered on the trunk lid and the striker is perfectly centered to the body of the car, they were not going to align properly. I stated this was a manufacturing issue that caused my trunk not to open or close properly and that it was more than a convenience issue to me, but a safety issue. The Regional Manager had to get involved and he agreed that it was probably a manufacturing issue and that there was a corrective action for this issue. The Service Manager looked up the corrective action, which I have a copy of that states that if the trunk doesn't properly open and takes "excessive force" to close that the striker is misaligned and that it can't be adjusted with the self centering bolts used in the assembly of the car. The bolts are replaced with regular bolts, the striker adjusted and then everything tightened. After they applied the corrective action recommended by Toyota, the trunk functioned properly. I was there for 3 hours, but it works, so its all good. Here is my issue, while I'm happy that they agreed to fix it and they only charged me $13.91 for a quarter hour of labor and 2 bolts and 2 washers, I'm not happy that Toyota didn't want to cover my issue under warranty when the failure was clearly caused by a manufacturing defect. I shouldn't have had to pay anything since the car was manufactured incorrectly. If this was a Ford product, there would have been no question as to if it was going to be a warranty repair regardless of if the car was 2 days old or 2 years and 364 days old. Way to go Toyota for trying to screw over your customers by only warrantying adjustments for 12 months and not 36 and for not fixing you own manufacturing defects on your increasingly low build quality automobiles. I hear Hyundai warranties everything you bring the car in for as long as it falls under the bumper to bumper warranty period, might have to consider them next time. Moral of the story: If anything is out of adjustment on your car, take it back immediately or pay out of pocket for the repair.
  15. As soon as the car is fixed, I'll be updating my profile on your site. Car's going into the dealer today because the trunk is not closing properly and it won't open from time to time. It's a 2010 with less than 8,000 miles. Yay Toyota for only one problem in over a year.
  16. Thanks guys, I took a look at it tonight and I found something else wrong with it. The latch is misaligned and is sticking, the solenoid is really slow to open it, but it opens it. When you turn the key or pull the release, you get to a point where you can't turn the key all the way or pull the release all the way up because it has released the latch, but not enough to cause it to disengage. The solenoid causes it to disengage the rest of the way. It appears that not only is my trunk latch defective as it isn't releasing correctly, but that my striker is misaligned also. They are going to have to fix this because I'm tired of screwing around to get the trunk open and this car has less that 8,000 miles on it. I just hope it doesn't take too long to fix it and I don't have to make more than one trip.
  17. Hey guys, I have a quick question for all of you 10th generation Corolla owners out there. About two weeks ago I went to open my trunk using the inside release (the one on the floor next to the driver's seat) and when I pulled up on it, it wouldn't pull far enough to open the trunk. I had to get out of the car and open the trunk with the key. After I opened the trunk with the key, I closed it and tried the inside trunk release again and it worked no problem, so I thought maybe I had inadvertently activated the inside trunk release lock out and didn't think anything more about it. The next time I went to open the trunk I tried the inside release lever and again, it wouldn't pull up enough to open the trunk, it felt like there was no resistance on it at all. So I got out and took a look at the trunk key hole. I was in the vertical position, not horizontal, so I knew the trunk lock out wasn't on. I put the key in, turned it to the right and the trunk opened. I again closed the trunk and then tried the inside release and it worked. Now last week, I went to get into the trunk and it wouldn't open with the inside release or the key. When I tried the inside release, it had no resistance and when I tried the key, it had no resistance either. So I used the remote to open the trunk and it opened no problem. I then closed the trunk and both the inside release and the key worked fine. I even manually closed the latch with the trunk lid open and watched what happened when I turned the key and pulled the inside release and nothing appears to be wrong. For right now, all three methods of opening the trunk are working, but I will bet money the next time I go to open the trunk the remote will be the only way to open it. I'm taking the car to the dealer Monday to have them look at it, so I'll be sure to let everyone know what it was so if it happens to anyone else they can get it fixed faster. So, any ideas on why the trunk release solenoid is opening the trunk and the inside and key releases are only working intermittently and after the trunk lid has been opened and closed?
  18. Update: The clay bar did the trick, kind of anyway. Some of the biggest rust spots came back, indicating to me that they had penetrated deeper into the paint than others and that the contamination hadn't been removed. None of the smaller spots have come back, indicating that I was able to remove that contamination completely with the clay bar. I used the clay bar again on the spots that reappeared, and they again came off, but this time I made sure I got them off completely by going over them numerous times with the clay bar. Hopefully this is the last time I have to do this. Now my issue is that the paint on my driver's side front lip has super fine spider web cracks in the paint. They aren't visible unless you get right up to the lip and look at an angle, but I'm going to have to get it fixed at some point. I think that will require a repaint. Also the car has five or six really shallow and small hail damage spots, which I believe from past experience will pop out with prolonged exposure to sunlight. They aren't visible unless you put your head on plane with the hood, roof or trunk and close one eye. I'm not going to get those fixed.
  19. Fellow Corolland Members, If you drive a 2010 Corolla with a VIN starting with 1, check the build date of your car ASAP. The build date is on the label above the tire inflation label found on the inside driver's door jam. If your 2010 Corolla was built in 2/10 or 3/10, read on, if not disregard. I'm a car nut. I maintain my car well. In fact I'm the only person I know who checks the functional status of their exterior lighting monthly. I check the oil and all fluids weekly as well as check the tire pressures. Additionally I keep the car as clean as I possibly can inside and out. Upon a routine inspection of my cars belts and hoses on Tuesday, I found that the accessory drive belt, more commonly known as the serpentine belt was starting to fray along the edges. I was quite concerned by this for two reasons: Firstly the car has less than 10,000 miles on it and is only 10 months old. Secondly if that belt breaks, you have no charging system, no air conditioning and most importantly no water pump. So when I took my car in for a previously scheduled 10,000 mile oil change and tire rotation, I mentioned the belt condition to the service writer. Knowing myself that there was a TSB on this very issue, I wanted to see what they would say. My car definitely had a defective belt as indicated by the TSB, I knew it. He simply said they would check it during the oil change. He had the technician look at it, and that technician had the master mechanic look at it and they both agreed it needed replaced. They replaced it in about a half an hour just like the TSB notification letter I found online at NHTSA's website said it would. Funny thing is that my vehicle was built at NUMMI and was produced during the time frame of 2/10 to 3/10 like the TSB indicated and according to my VIN series I should have received the letter, yet I never received any letter from Toyota like the one I found online. Not really pleased with Toyota at this point for failing to alert me to this possible and potentially serious issue with my car. I'm very pleased that the dealer was so willing to investigate the issue for me and work to resolve it without putting up any kind of fight. I'm also pleased that they handled it in a expedient manner. This dealer I use is good, and that's one thing I will say for Toyota is that so far I haven't run across a bad dealer. Moral of the story: If you have a 2010 Corolla with a VIN starting with the number 1 and it was manufactured in February or March of 2010, have the dealer check the condition of the accessory drive belt as soon as possible. Toyota used two suppliers for this belt, one of the suppliers was shipping them faulty parts, so there's a 50/50 chance that yours is bad and with mine starting to fail at 10,000 miles yours might be closer to failure than you'd be comfortable with.
  20. So this past winter I started noticing rust spots on my 7 month old 2010 Corolla S. They were easily visible because the car is white. Upon discovering them, I immediately took the car and had it detailed. They went away for a while, but came back. Last week I learned the source of this paint contamination; a nearby iron cutting operation that was not keeping its filings from floating in the air. I saw a newscast that showed this plant and was reporting that it had been shut down by the EPA for numerous violations. As proof of them not keeping the filings from getting into the air, they went to the parking lot at my place of work and took pictures of all the white and silver cars in the employee lot. Every one of our cars was damaged by the iron filings. Anyway, now aware of the issue and knowing it won't happen again, I decided to tackle the issue myself this time. I got a clay bar kit and went at it. The spots all came off, but not without some serious elbow grease. Then I washed the car again, waxed it twice and made sure it was parked under cover. It was really hard work, but I really like my cars to be clean and its worth it to me to get the car shiny and keep it well taken care of on my day off.
  21. Hey, I have a 2010 Corolla 'S' with EPS, a 2011 Camry XLE with EPS and also had a 2004 Mazda3S with EPS. The lack of road feel and sensitivity you're talking about is 100% normal for EPS. You aren't used to steering that is boosted to that degree and it will take some getting used to but once you do, it won't be an issue. I now after having driven cars with EPS regularly for six years have no issues jumping in an EPS equipped car. I actually have problems driving a non EPS car as the steering feels very heavy to me.
  22. I stood in the service bay next to the technician and watched the entire time the "recall" was preformed on my 2008 Camry XLE, and when it was preformed on my 2010 Corolla. The technicians never hooked anything up to the ECU or any diagnostic port in my car. On the Camry they did the trim and shim and on the Corolla they raised the pedal assembly to provide additional clearance for the floor mats. The trim and shim was a super ugly operation and fix. The raised accelerator isn't as easy to hold in place as it was before the recall work was preformed. I honestly don't believe there is anything wrong with any of these cars, I believe it became an easy way to blame the car after the Lexus with improper floor mats incident. Every year some 300 incidents of unintended acceleration are reported to NHTSA and most all of them are dismissed as driver error. Let's face it, no one wants to admit that they don't know how to operate their car. Toyota sells a lot of cars and so when 1 Lexus has a reported issue, you're surely going to find 50 Camry owners who will blame their car for rear ending someone. Now Toyota is going to be stuck installing brake override on every car they sell in the US, just like Audi got stuck with brake shift interlock in the 80s because people were too embarrassed to admit that they made a mistake and couldn't operate their cars correctly.
  23. Well fellow Corolland members, today Ray LaHood, head of the DOT said that after a 10 month intensive study by the brightest minds in the US, that the DOT could say with full confidence that the Toyota supposed accelerator issues were not the result of the electronic systems on the vehicle. They also found no evidence during their testing of the physical pedal that any pedal ever stuck or returned slowly when used with the proper floor mat. So basically and its sad to say, Toyota got screwed by having to pay $48.8 million through the course of a recall that shouldn't have ever happened. The hit they took to their reputation was unfair, and since so much of the press made it front page news that the vehicles were flawed, now it should be front page news that they weren't. To those who say that the floor mat issue is a design flaw, think again. Any product used incorrectly has the potential to cause harm. It clearly says in the owner's manual of every car Ive ever driven not to stack floor mats as it may interfere with operation of the pedals or cause your foot to slip. People used the floor mats incorrectly and to me that's just plain stupid. When people end up getting hurt by improper use of a product, that is no fault of the manufacturer. Only when injury occurs during use following all instructions and recommended precautions it is determined that the manufacturer's product was still unsafe is it the manufacturer's fault. That's my take on the situation.
  24. My Dad is still battling the rattle on his 1998 Corolla LE. Here is a description of the problem: I have a rattling sound coming from the driver front end. Thought it was a suspension issue so I have installed new brakes, new struts and sway bar end bushings. None of this helped abate the rattle. I now notice the rattle sometimes happens when I take my foot of the accelerator. I also notice that if I apply light pressure to the brakes the rattle goes away. While this rattle happens primarily when I encounter a bump in the road it is increasingly heard when I back off the throttle. Any suggestions as to what could be causing this?