ForumsCorollas2019-21ToyotasTech

ChrisK

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About ChrisK

  1. Hi, I am looking to purchase a 10th gen Corolla. I've seen two cars so far, and noticed that on both vehicles, both front and rear bumper covers seem to have been repainted--or at least having 2 layers of paint. If you were to look at the corner of the bumper cover, you can see a curved section where the upper layer of paint was applied. However, after looking at some more vehicles, it seems that they ALL have this "rounded upper layer of paint". Is this just how they came from Toyota's factory? I know the 9th gen bumpers don't seem to have this "additional layer of paint". Asking if the kind members here can post pictures of their bumper cover to confirm my suspicion. Thanks in advance!
  2. Update: That part didn't work. In the end, I fashioned a rubber bushing made from some rubber grommet, and held it in with an e-clip. 7/16 or 1/2 inch, I cannot remember.
  3. I've moving from TX to MI in a few weeks and I was wondering what could I do the protect my car from the salt/slush that comes with living in the North?? Would you recommend any additional steps to protect/prevent/inhibit the formation and spread of rust on the car frame?
  4. I placed my GPS on the lower right corner of the windshield. I added an mini add-a-fuse on the fuse panel on the driver's side, routed the wires below the driver-side kick-panel, up along small crevice/space between the trim and the front seal of the door up until the base of the A-pillar, and then left a short length of wire protruding out. Hope this helps! I can also email a picture of it if you like.
  5. Just found one. Autozone and Advance Auto have them. About $8 each. Dorman "Help!" Product, Part number 49448. Supposed to fit ONLY 97-01 Camry but from the looks of it, will fit 98-02 Corolla too...
  6. Recently replaced my wiper motor. However, even with the new wiper motor, the wiper motion wasn't very good. The start/stop position varies with low or high speed and there's a jerking sound. After some thinking, I realized their improper function was due to the fact that the nylon bushing had worn out and had broken into two pieces. I wish I had taken pictures, but while they still connect the crank arm to the linkage, its not a secure connection. Just to clarify, this is the nylon bushing that is between (1) the metal ball joint of the wiper motor crank arm (2) the metal ring of the connecting linkages Can someone verify that the nylon bushing I need is the same one that is in the link below?? http://www.dormanpro...48-118-303.aspx Also, how do I go about getting one of those?? I'll try the dealership, but from what I hear online, they come as part of the WHOLE linkage... Many thanks! I wish my Corolla had less problems.
  7. Okay, if thats the case I'll go ahead with the Delco unit. My car already has 153,000 miles on it, and while I'm taking good care of it, I know that it may not last very much longer given its age. Thanks Fishexpo101!!
  8. I've a 2002 Toyota Corolla (8.5 Gen) and I think my wiper motor is due for replacement. I've taken it apart twice already, and both times I found the insulation on the wiper motor seal somehow became less viscous and flowed down into the worm gear, hindering motion. I'm sick and tired of doing that a third time (esp since connecting the motor to the mechanical arms is a challenge) so I'm thinking of replacing it. My wiper motor works normally in the FAST setting. For the LOW and INTERMITTENT setting, they only move if I lifted the wipers off the windscreen. Now they don't move even if lifted off the windscreen--hence the need for either self-repair (again) or replacement. Now I bought my car second-hand, and the existing wiper motor is a Valeo wiper motor. I checked out "new/reman" wiper motors from O'Reily and I've to choose between a "AC Delco Type" and a "NipponDenso Type" wiper motor. Is there a difference? The Delco wiper motor is a lot cheaper and I can't seem to see any immediate difference between the two. Thanks in advance for any input, I appreciate it.
  9. I managed to find the time (and energy to move my lazy ######) to Discount Tire today, and it was determine that I have a bent wheel. So, my wheel is BENT?! CRAP... Is there an easy DIY method to fix/repair this? Or should I be looking at new wheels? How can I independently verify that the wheel is bent? (This is because the technician that worked on my car didn't seem to know what he was doing. I didn't observe him actually LOOKING at the "faulty" wheel--and he said he placed in on the rear right when it was really on the front right) Also, if I'm into new wheels, are there any suggestions? Sizes are 185/65/14. But I'm honestly not looking forward to spending money on new wheels...
  10. I add air before the car starts to roll--so the loss of air is not due to change in tire temps. I do go over some speed bumps, there's an annoying "bump" that my apartment complex has. I go over bumps at a slow pace, say approx 5-10 mph? Could it be the bead seal or a valve stem leak? If so, what's the best way to check? Soapy water? I highly doubt its foul play. I've observed this over 2 months and between TX and FL. It has happened so consistently that I went ahead and bought a 12V air pump...
  11. Vehicle: 2002 Toyota Corolla Tires: Falken Ziex-912 Problem: I rotate my tires every 6000miles. However, no matter which specific tire it may be, the tire that gets to be on the Front Driver Side position will ALWAYS leak air. I've observed this over three different tires, with all three tires leaking air once its at the Front-Driver Side position. What could be the problem? I typically pump my tires up to 36psi and after 2 days, THAT SPECIFIC TIRE will be down to 30psi--with the remaining three still at approx 36psi. So far I've been re-pumping that tire every morning. Any ideas what could be causing this issue?
  12. Thanks dshandle! Greatly appreciate your input and help on this little project. Should I be expecting white smoke and a burning smell from the new O2 sensor? (Hopefully its the seals burning in?)
  13. I have no idea what I did. I tried yanking the O2 sensor out this morning and IT CAME OFF!!!! Placebo or not, I think the cold weather shrunk the vertical bolt!! I placed in the new O2 sensor (w/o screwing it in yet) and am going to bed.
  14. I can't do that. The vertical bolt does not come off if the oxygen sensor is attached. If the vertical bolt does not come off, the exhaust pipe cannot be moved. Would using a clamp to compress that spring work? I guess a better way to put it is..... how do I move the exhaust pipe if the bolt attaching the pipe to the exhaust manifold is still attached?
  15. I desperately need help with this. I unscrewed my O2 sensor, and its loose, but there's a bolt hanging from the above exhaust manifold there's blocking its removal. I'll let the pictures do the talking. That's the pre-cat O2 sensor viewed from the top-down. A closer-up view of the pre-cat O2 sensor. That spring-like thing in the center of the picture is what's blocking the removal of the O2 sensor. Three separate views of the offending bolt/spring. WHAT SHOULD I DO WITH THIS??? It is too close to the O2 sensor for a socket to fit over it. I don't have (on me at the moment) an open wrench set that is SHORT enough to fit into the constrained space. I'm not strong enough to compress that spring either.