• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About GarrettSocling

  • Rank
    Well-known member
  1. I got the CamCon last year on eBay for a very good price. As soon as I saw it for $225, I knew I'd have to buy it You'd get minor gains without the wideband, as PowerEnterprises provides default VVT-i settings which are supposed to be an improvement over stock. Those settings probably then need tuned further, but you really can't do that without repeated runs on a dynamometer. With the wideband, you'd be able to further tune your engine as you added new mods. I really don't know what a SAFC is, nor how you'd be able to use it without tuning it, other than it has a map it ships with that is pre-tuned to overcome known shortcomings in the specific honda engine it is being installed into. A wideband can be sorta a pain to install, the guy who I had mount my bung on my stock header really scratched everything to hell while taking it out. I took that header off a few days later and it came out effortlessly if you took the shields off first. It pays to find a good shop (which I haven't yet, after all these years of visiting garages...) The people running the 05 Corollas are using eManage (I believe) because the supplied TRD engine management needs to tie into the stock ECU, which has changed pinouts from 03/04 to 05+ The CamCon should provide gains on any engine, but the factory supplied VVT-i settings may no longer be ideal, the unit would need retuned. The very quick and easy access to the rough WOT AFR tuning capabilities is pretty nice too. Not worthless, but not a wildly compelling device either. No idea about the SAFC. I never see substantial mention of it at any of the forums I read, but each group seems to have their own preferences. You'd have to just take a look at what it does, in general most import engines function the same, and engine management that works on one typically works on another...I think... I don't think the fluid ends up being the weak link, from what I've read there are softer bits inside both the automatic and manual transmissions that are likely to fail as the HP increases. However, at the modest 175HP you might be making, transmission failure shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure to increase your fluid change interval. Auto tranny fluid should probably be changed every 20-30k, especially if you drive spirited. Grandma might be able to get away with 60-90k intervals, but I wouldn't.
  2. Err... The CamCon intercepts and alters the VVT-i settings, but when you shut it off it allows the stock signal to flow through. It simply rides piggyback on the MAF signal, doesn't intercept, so again when it is turned off it allows the signal to flow through normally. You should look under your glovebox for your ECU and decide if you feel comfortable taking a pair of wire strippers and cutting/soldering stuff under there. There isn't a lot of room, and you might only get once chance if you make a bad mistake reading the wiring diagrams... WOT = wide open throttle. The CamCon only adjusts the AFR in WOT, since it is simply tweaking the MAF sensor reading. In WOT, the ECU ignores its own oxygens sensor readings, no longer trying to maintain stoich, and instead runs off a safe map programmed in the ECU, combined with the airflow data. The CamCon adjusts the MAF sensor reading to either enrich or lean out the AFR by telling the ECU it sees more or less air than it actually does. Superchargers do fall into forced induction, but most people just run the TRD supplied engine management in that situation. The few running TRD superchargers on their 05+ have to by necessity run an aftermarket solution like eManage.
  3. Maybe 10HP? The Camcon is really easy to install if you aren't afraid to cut up your ECU harness! The VVT-i settings give you a bit of pep, and depending on how your current mods effected your WOT AFR, the MAF adjustment capabilities of the Camcon could give you a little additional power too...but you really need a wideband AFR sensor to dial in the best setting (probably around 13.3 on normally aspirated engines from what I've read). I have the Camcon, haven't had a single problem, but I can't say 100% how much gains I've seen. I also have an AFR so I could use the A/F adjustment to tweak that across the RPM range. Personally, I wouldn't bother with the eManage unless you decide to add forced induction to you engine. Basic two dimensional RPM-based WOT A/F adjustment, VVT-i adjustment = CamCon. Elaborate A/F adjustment, injector pulse width, ignition timing = eManage
  4. I have one of those deep well sockets with the foam insert so it grips the plug to help you lift them out...I'd suggest coating one of your new plugs with dielectric boot protector and then putting that plug in and pulling it out of your socket a few socket always ends up two inches down inside when putting the plugs back in, with no good way to get it out. The dielectric will lubricate it just enough to allow the socket to lift out, and it isn't bad to leave a little behind on the plug.
  5. Am I the only one who thinks the 9th gen corolla is awesome? I don't care for the body styling of the CE and LE, but with the body kit and lowered, I think the car looks like an athletic a good way! Combined with respectable power, excellent reliability and unbelievable economy...I mean, come on...what more could you want? A sports car? An SUV? A luxury car? Its not either of those three things, but its the best of what is left...
  6. I've extended my Mobil1 oil changes out past 8000 miles with plenty of life left on the oil, with the UOA saying the oil is still healthy and still has life left. This is with mostly a 3 mile drive one way to work and back. The 1ZZFE is not a sludging engine. People who fail to change their oil sludge engines...but I'd be suprised if they could sludge this one. I beat my 05 like a dog, like it owes me money...minimal wear, oil within grade, minimal shearing, plenty of TBN...sludging engine...pfff... Tin box with a disposable engine? Amazing... The last two 'US' trucks I've owned, a 91 S-10 2.8L and a 95 Dakota 3.9L, both made it past 150,000 with absolute minimal engine maintenance, sold both in perfect operating don't think I'm terribly biased to Toyota...
  7. So what causes stuck rings? There are only a handful of additives I'd really trust to put in my fuel or oil, but the LCD products (FP60 and LC20) and AutoRX are among them. The single best resource for information on additives that I've found is the BITOG forums at Personally I wouldn't spend $2000 to save a quart of oil per 1000 miles, but I would experiment with a wide range of additives. Those guys at BITOG do all sorts of crazy things, like piston soaks, fogging, adding MMO to gas, and they are serious about their oil and oil additives...
  8. I'm just doing it to help see inside my engine, I want to know if I am doing everything right, if I am beating it too hard, if I am making best use of the oil, etc etc. buurin : I did have Dyson take a look, he (basically) recommended that I proceed with what I was intending, with a slight modification to the LC20 dosage. bikeman : Blackstone is nice in that they give you a very generic take on the report, in this case it was missing, but in general they'll just say how the wear compares to their running averages for a given engine and whether they recommend extending or decreasing the oil usage interval, pretty generic stuff. The right hand black-highlighted column shows their running average of all 1ZZ (I think, maybe average all samples sent to them?), the left hand black-highlighted shows my averages on my 1ZZ. Aim for lower than average in the 'metals' and you're probably doing OK. I broke the engine in with a progressive stretching method and frequent engine breaking, changed the factory fill around 1500 or 2000 to dino supertech 5W30, changed to Mobil 1 5W30 at 5,000, M1 5W30 EP somewhere around 10,000 miles, and have been going longer and longer between samples since. I'm at 25,929 today and have about another 3 or 4k to go till the next sample. I'm expecting it to have slightly higher wear than indicated in the previous UOA as I have had much less highway travel, much more % of short trips just to and from work. I'm pretty much addicted to getting UOA now, I can barely wait to pull the oil, I just have to know now Oh Toyota, where is my oil life monitor???
  9. Here you go: Most recent UOA Blackstone screwed up the second from leftmost column, I can't remember what the miles on oil and miles on unit should have been anymore. After this 'waste of new oil' I decided to start aiming towards at least 10,000 per oil change interval. I have all types of driving on that last oil sample, hours 70+ of I80 and I81 to and from various points, a month or more of averaging 3 miles one way to and from work, lots of WOT redline runs, etc etc. Its nice having peace of mind, and its nice knowing that you are actually getting your $$$ worth out of your oil (duration and protection). Engine uses zero oil, the 'make up' oil listed is the approx. 1/2 quart of additives I add regularly through the oil change interval.
  10. I have an 05 Corolla S too. I've heard some fluids are too slippery for our transmissions. I've used SF MTL-R and Red Line MT-90. I like MT-90, not bad stuff. Got it of all places... I've read that GL-4 fluid is preferred over GL-5 in our transmissions.
  11. x2 Purolator Premium or PureOne aren't bad either. I use Napa Gold myself.
  12. can you share your oil change information so we know what not to do? It would be a good reference to know.
  13. there is one primary difference and one minor difference. the primary difference is some part of the PCV system used to dump into the throttle body itself, now it dumps into the plastic intake farther upstream. you buy an 03/04 intake (and 05 intakes from asshats on ebay) and you find out it doesn't fit on an 05 cause there is no bung for your hose. I just took a little filter and some fuel line and rigged it up, but ended up taking it off and returning the product (thinking the real deal was just around the corner...(two years later)). the minor difference is a carbon filter in the filter box which apparently reduces emissions by some small fraction, which multiplies to a big difference across millions of corolla's...when I probably make 1000 times the emissions each time I fill my mower...big freakin deal, but emissions changes = no carb certification in CA, so only one 05 intake to date, the cosmo found here : don't know if they engineered some carbon filter or if they just don't sell to CA...or if they figure caveat emptor...
  14. Bikerman, sounds like the QEW in Canada...unbelievable...any time I've been in VA has been along 81, and the police presence is plenty strong along that highway. I know my Corolla loves 55MPH when it comes to fuel use...