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bluechalice

Having To Replace Engine Oil Often

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Just to be clear, oil loss caused by bad piston rings doesn't have anything to do with sludge as far as I'm aware.

 

As far as the cause of sludge, I have read several possible theories that could be responsible. Many new engines are desinged to run at higher temperatures to increase efficiency, which causes engine oil to deteriorate more quickly. In the late 90's, many auto makers increased their recomended oil change interval from 3000 to about 7500 or even 10000 miles for various reasons. At least a few have since revised their recomendation to a lower number. I know Toyota has done this. I've read some reports of people with frequent oil changes still having engine sludge, so in those cases engine design or maybe a manurfacturing defect is to blame. Any engine can become sludged if not maintained.

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Just to be clear, oil loss caused by bad piston rings doesn't have anything to do with sludge as far as I'm aware.

 

As far as the cause of sludge, I have read several possible theories that could be responsible. Many new engines are desinged to run at higher temperatures to increase efficiency, which causes engine oil to deteriorate more quickly. In the late 90's, many auto makers increased their recomended oil change interval from 3000 to about 7500 or even 10000 miles for various reasons. At least a few have since revised their recomendation to a lower number. I know Toyota has done this. I've read some reports of people with frequent oil changes still having engine sludge, so in those cases engine design or maybe a manurfacturing defect is to blame. Any engine can become sludged if not maintained.

Other than doing frequent oil changes, is there anything else that can be done to reduce or eliminate oil sludge? Is there an oil additive or something that can be used to reduce sludge??

Edited by Bikeman982

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Is the sludging created due to engine design, or due to infrequent oil changes?

 

Mostly the latter. It appears that engines known for sludging (some Toyotas, VW-Audi 1.8T...) and actual cases of sludging in those engines were, for the most part, found in neglected cars, i.e. oil changes not done as per the factory recommendations.

Edited by Ti-Jean

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Hi guys thanks for the advice...just went to sams to pick up a case of mobil 1 syn 5w30 for $29.99(6bottles)...and guess the walmart next door has each bottle at only $4.74! and they even had a big jug of 5 Qts at only $20!!! I am not getting them at sams anymore...cant believe its more expensive there...

Anyway...I did remember smelling some noxious gas coming out of the exhaust these past weeks....

Can one do a compression test themselves? or is it something a mechanic should do? I just moved here...and dont know anyone...so dont know if I should go to just a general mechanic or a toyota dealer?

 

I did a compression test myself by putting the gauge where I could see it as I cranked the engine - I had it between the hood and the car.

 

Do you need a special tool or equipment to do the compression test? what do I need? I hope its not the rings/pistons as some have suggested...

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Hi guys thanks for the advice...just went to sams to pick up a case of mobil 1 syn 5w30 for $29.99(6bottles)...and guess the walmart next door has each bottle at only $4.74! and they even had a big jug of 5 Qts at only $20!!! I am not getting them at sams anymore...cant believe its more expensive there...

Anyway...I did remember smelling some noxious gas coming out of the exhaust these past weeks....

Can one do a compression test themselves? or is it something a mechanic should do? I just moved here...and dont know anyone...so dont know if I should go to just a general mechanic or a toyota dealer?

 

I did a compression test myself by putting the gauge where I could see it as I cranked the engine - I had it between the hood and the car.

 

Do you need a special tool or equipment to do the compression test? what do I need? I hope its not the rings/pistons as some have suggested...

 

Ask crypticlineage about the compression test. He is getting ready to do one and has not done it before. The tool you need is a compression tester. Normally it has a fitting that replaces the spark plug and checks the air pressure with a gauge as your engine is cranked. The pressure reading has to be within specifications to be considered normal. If it is not it will indicate a compression loss and that could mean rings or pistons not working as they should. Hope this helps.

Edited by Bikeman982

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