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My Free 2001 Corolla Ce


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#16 txsizzler

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Posted 01 December 2010 - 11:12 AM

Thanks, pichi. I will definately do that. Haven't looked at it yet though... looks easy enough to do. I have already removed the V-vti shroud from the engine, just to make things easier to get around.


Ian

#17 fishexpo101

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Posted 01 December 2010 - 03:19 PM

"Fishexpo101"
What can you tell us about using ANY oil other than the 5w-30 grade on the corolla??
Will the car run "ok" with the much heavier oil? Just wondering because i also have an eight gen rolla!..
And WAS thinking of switching to a thicker oil but not anymore since i read "cesar"'s link above about motor oils.
I personally believe that doing two or three consecutive oil changes with a 0w-30 or even 0w-20 with 200-300 mile intervals will flush some stuff out. I just have not found the time to do so.


Depends on the driving conditions and the condition of the engine. Even with the same oil grade, different vendors/product lines 5w-30 viscosities can vary greatly. Example, Mobil 1 tends to run on the thinner side of 5w-30, while something like a Pennzoil Platinum or Amsoil will run a little thicker side. They make a big deal of the oil "staying in grade", basically meaning that as the oil is used, does it keep the same viscosity or does it wear down or "shear down" to a lower grade.

The Corolla engine (1ZZ-FE) is tough on the motor oil, so it tends to shear down oils pretty quickly. Some oils will hold up better than others over time, how long will depend on what you want for an oil change interval.

Use 5w-30 as the middle ground oil - will work for most situations, but may not be optimal for your own. In areas that generally never see any snow, rarely falls below freezing - a 10w30, 10w-40, even a 15w-40 will not be considered "too" thick. When the car will see lots of cold weather use, subzero cold starts will benefit from a 0W-30, 0W-40 oil. As they will still provide plenty of protection when the oil gets up to temperature. For the 9th gen Corollas, there is a TSB that indicated that running a 5W-20 is preferred for most situations - Toyota feeling comfortable that a 20 weight oil should not compromise the longevity of the car, given the potential fuel economy gains. There isn't too much of a difference between a 5W-30 and a 10W-40 oil - I would personally not run a 20W-50 or anything like that, even under race conditions - as that would be "too" thick.

A UOA (Used Oil Analysis) should give you a good idea of how a particular oil is doing in the engine and it if will be a good match to the engine. I've found that Mobil 1 5w-30 shears down pretty fast in my engine, but levels out and stays just barely in grade. I've run that oil out to as much as 15K miles before the additive pack was too depleted, but wear metals and trace were pretty clean. Past experience with Amsoil shows that it will tend to thicken as you run it - sometimes running a grade higher (ie, put in 5W-30, in the engine and it might thicken as much as 10w-40). Some engines like that, some do not. PP, Castrol, and Valvoline sit in the middle - they've all been good to me.

For my area , driving conditions - a 5w-30 works out just perfectly. In the wintertime, I'll run a 0w-30 for better low temperature cranking, but I tend to stick with a 30 weight overall. As for the "flushing" aspects of thinner oils, it is true, does work pretty well. I'd much rather prefer to run a couple of short drain intervals of a 0w-20 to slowly "flush" my engine than run a can of commercial "kerosene" in a can. Will take longer, but also reduces the risk of something clogging up the oil passageways.

#18 corolla_99

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Posted 01 December 2010 - 06:02 PM

"Fishexpo101"
What can you tell us about using ANY oil other than the 5w-30 grade on the corolla??
Will the car run "ok" with the much heavier oil? Just wondering because i also have an eight gen rolla!..
And WAS thinking of switching to a thicker oil but not anymore since i read "cesar"'s link above about motor oils.
I personally believe that doing two or three consecutive oil changes with a 0w-30 or even 0w-20 with 200-300 mile intervals will flush some stuff out. I just have not found the time to do so.


I used 10w30 during summer with no problems, I also put 10w40 once - that one caused drop in fuel mileage about 10-15%. Now using 5w30 only (Castrol high mileage) and happy

#19 cesar

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Posted 01 December 2010 - 09:50 PM

Yeah, i have found out about that the hard way. Just like "txsizzler" i wanted to help my car not to consume "too much" oil. And started using a 15w-40. But as it started getting colder here in Dallas i noticed it took just a little more time for my car to start in the mornings and i also noticed a drop in fuel economy.
Then i was reading some interesting articles in "BITOG" and learned that instead of helping to slow oil consumption, a thicker oil will in some cases make it worse since oil passages dont get as much "flow" as they should.
So, in the corolla, being the oil holes already too small in the piston, makes it pretty much the main cause of the oil consumption issue.
Since this passages are too small and get clogged very easily if proper maintenaice isnt done, using a 15w-40 or even 10w-30 with already clogged oil passages might just worsen the case, haha. So no more "thick" oil for my corolla, thank you.
I just changed the last 15w-40 i had two weeks ago with a 5w-30. And just like "pichi" said, i will flush that again in two weeks or 200-300 miles. And since it just keeps getting colder and colder i might try the 0w-30 or 0w-20 perhaps.

"Txsizzler" when you replace your pcv valve if you are also going to replace the old pcv groomet be careful prying that thing out, if it is already hard it might just brake in pieces and fall inside the valve cover. If it does no big deal just undo the valve covr and tip it on its side, it will fall right out.

#20 ever_green

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 12:08 AM

my fuel economy increased switching to castrol high mileage 5w-30. i have always used 5w-30 Toyota oem oil. however since the switch the car starts harder in the cold im not sure why.

#21 cesar

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 01:09 AM

If you have always used a 5w-30 grade oil it just means the castrol "high mileage" sits on the "thicker" side of the 30 grade but not enough to be named a 40 grade oil.
Where the toyota oem sits on the "thinner" side of the 30 grade but not enough to be named a 20 grade oil.
Thats why its "harder" for your car to crank up in the cold morning.
If it gets too cold in the morning where you live you can even switch to a "0w-30" grade oil. Dont worry, 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30,etc. They ALL are "30" grade oils and have exactly the same thickness at optimum operating temperature, so they will work just the same when your car is fully warmed up
The difference is in the "0w, 5w, 10w etc". This means whe the oil sits overnight and gets cold it gets also thicker thus making it harder for your engine to crank up in the morning. Or after siTting for long periods of time.

***What i dont comprehend is how are you getting beTter mpg with the thicker oil when its supossed to be the. Opposite?.***


If you can, try Switching to a "0w-30" grade and enjoy the same mpg your getting but eliminate the "hard starts".

#22 cesar

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Posted 02 December 2010 - 01:48 AM

(Sorry i had to make another post but i cannot edit a post from my phone)

Edit: i think im wrong on a statement. I made above, if you were always using "5w-30" toyota oem then switched to castrol high mileage same grade and improved mpg but got harder starts that means the toy oem "30 grade" sits on the thicker side as opossed to what i stated above.
Then, the castrol higH mileage being on the "thinner" side gives you better mpg since you switched, but it probably or most likely comes with a "heavier dosis" of additives on the "5w" (the heavier dosis of additives make the oil get thicker when it gets coLd than it would with the oem toyota oil).
This proves my point just right, you dont necesarily have to go down a grade. Just use the oil that has the right amount of additives so it dont get as thick when cold but still protects the engine when fully warmed up.
Again, the "0w-30" would do, not as thick when cold but still just likE any other "30" grade when warmed up.

P.s. Please excuse my bad english. Plus, im getting sleepy so im having a hard time typing this. Lol.
Hope this info helps.

#23 01loadedLE

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Posted 04 December 2010 - 05:01 PM

I just wanted to add about gasket leaks that AT205 Resealer has worked for a lot of people including me to where switching to another oil was not needed. Using seafoam may contribute to leaking gaskets since it cleans the gunk off of them but the AT205 can counter that so it's worth trying before switching oils.

I prefer the wix 51396 since it is a very sturdy filter that has a better beta ratio(better filtering) than any other filter you can get for $6, and if the $6 price is an issue then you can safely use it for two or three oci's depending on driving conditions. Users on bitog have reported better oil analysis figures on the second and third oci's also.

#24 TomDee

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 05:34 PM

I run Syn 5W-40 pretty much year round good to near zero degrees on up into the mid 100's Agip / Mobil 1