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What Could Be Making My Front End Clunk?

by TOALing, January 25, 2013

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I don't know what else I could possibly do. I'm having trouble figuring out what is causing this clunking noise in the front end of my '92 Corolla.

So far I have replaced:

- passenger CV axle

- both sides inner & outer tie rod ends

- driver side balljoint

I've:

- Done the 12-6 o' clock wheel shake to check the bearings, but I notice no play

- Looked intently underneath the car for loose exhaust components or plastic covers

- Tried jacking the car up and spinning the wheels to listen for noises with a stethoscope

- Tried having a helper get in the car and slowly pull forward and backward as I listen for the clunk

- Tried examining the LCA and LCA bushing, but I notice nothing wrong

How are your stabilizer bar end links and mount bushings? How about your struts?

It turns out my car doesn't have a stabilizer bar, although that was one angle I did consider before I knew. As for my struts, they *seem* fine since when I do the bounce test, they snap right back.

Yea, mine doesn't have one. I looked quite intently for it one day as I was hoping it would be the source of the issue.

Need a bit more info - anything that makes the clunking noise better/worse? Seems to be temperature dependant, or just random? Checked tire pressures? Steering rack OK?

Shouldn't he have a front stabilizer bar?

Hard to say in this case - I've seen a number of vehicles come without the stabilizer(s) from the factory - ie, some base Corollas (most current one was the 1998 Corolla) and quite a few Civics.

Some people actually prefer to run without front or rear stabilizers - lots of spec Miata drivers do this to maximize tire patch contact, trading overall roll stability for grip. I agree though, for a street driven vehicle, especially if you run at highway speeds - without the stabilizers, can produce quite dangerous handling for most drivers.

As for if this particular model has the stabilizer or not - could be someone took it off to isolate some issues before and forgot to replace it. Original poster didn't indicate the trim level or how original the car was.

Need a bit more info - anything that makes the clunking noise better/worse? Seems to be temperature dependant, or just random? Checked tire pressures? Steering rack OK?

The clunking is more apparent when the road has more cracks or it's bumpy, like one of those brick roads, but the noise is also apparent at lower speeds on smoother roads. It doesn't appear to be temperature dependent and my steering rack should be in good shape considering I replaced those tie rod parts not very long ago. The tire pressure is fine as well.

As for the stabilizer bar, I have the DLX version and I was not the original owner. When I fish through the toyota repair manual for my car, it's definitely shown.

Did you mean the DX trim level? I don't remember a DLX trim, unless that is region dependent. In any case, sounds like this is atleast the mid-trim or higher (1988-1992 Corollas run from base, DX, LE - SR5 was their "sporty" trim level).

That AE92 chassis should have the sways on it - since they were pretty popular in Auto-X and SOLO racing, possible the original owner removed them to give the chassis more compliance/increase the amount of tire put onto the ground during transient moves.

Since it makes more noise when the road is rough and doesn't seem to have a strongly coupled temperature dependence, I'm thinking it is likely with the struts. Possible bad/weak strut, loose strut mounts, worn pillow-ball top mount, worn spring isolator pads (this was my issue some time ago on my 2002 Corolla). Could also be a completely unrelated system - excessive chassis movement from worn bushing on the lower control arm, even cracks/corrosion/loose parts on or around the firewall, fenders, engine/transaxle mounts, etc.

Fortunately, lots of them can be caught with a visual inspection. See if a shop will allow you to throw the car up on a lift and give it a good look over. On jackstands, might be able to do the same, but a lift gives you a lot easier access and visibility.

It is the DX trim level; wasn't thinking straight.

I took note of what you said and did a more intent look over of my control arm bushings. It seems that for both sides of the car, the ones on the front of the control arm show a good amount of wear on them while the bushings on the rear of the arms show very little.

For some odd reason, it doesn't appear that any place carries the bushing for the front of the control arm though. All I could find was this bushing for the rear part of the control arm at NAPA and then listing 48655?12060 at ToyoDIY for the same type of bushing again. Can these bushings be used at both points of the control arm or something?

As for the struts, it looks like I won't know for sure how bad they are unless I take the assembly out.

Those can be tough to find. Might try an auto bodyshop - they might be able to secure a set for your, or atleast tell you if they are even available, help you find some.

As dom mentioned - the rears tend to wear out more often, just a function of their placement/orientation. The fronts act as the fulcrum with a limited degree of freedom, while the rears get new constant movement from chassis getting loaded/unloaded.

Though I can see the fronts going if the car has seen some rough roads (side loading with make fronts wear out faster) or even just sitting around for a long period of time (dry rot). On my 2002 - the fronts are starting to get a little sloppy - the car has seen lots of unpaved driving conditions (military bases, other site visits, camping/fishing trips - think "soft" roading).

Any slop there, front or rear, can cause those noises you are hearing. Likely it is a combination of things - struts could be weak/shot - causing excessive chassis movement (worn struts can't dampen effectively), which in turn has worn a number of bushings.

This happens a lot, more so if the car has an aftermarket suspension/spring kit. Even moderate spring kits (higher spring rates) can shorted the lifespan of those components. Since the spring rates is higher - it can also "hide" much of those symptooms (like worn struts) until it gets to the point of very excessive wear.

I'm screwed as far as buying new bushings goes since the bushing I need can't be purchased separately. After speaking to my local dealership, my only option is to buy a new set of control arms and it looks like they want a solid $200 for each of them default_wacko. I'm thinking about just going with some much lower priced Beck Arnley arms I saw for around $80 though.

Course since the struts could be shot to, I'm probably looking at replacing the entire front end strut to I suppose. Would this include the strut, strut mount, and bellow? Also, what is the best brand?

Control arm bushing sets:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROCA-88-92-COROLLA-FRONT-L-R-LOWER-CONTROL-ARM-BUSHING-KIT-OE-OEM-STOCK-4-PCS-/180801122251?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACorolla%7CYear%3A1992&hash=item2a18962fcb&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROCA-Toyota-Corolla-AE92-AE95-Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Bushing-2pc-Driver-Side-/170770220866?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACorolla%7CYear%3A1992&hash=item27c2b2c742&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROCA-Toyota-Corolla-AE92-AE95-Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Bushing-2pc-Passenger-Side-/170770220944?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACorolla%7CYear%3A1992&hash=item27c2b2c790&vxp=mtr

For front struts and rear shock absorbers, you could get KYB, Gabriel or Monroe... You'll also need new front strut bellows, front lower spring insulators, and possibly front strut mounts.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1275409,parttype,7592,a,Search%2Bfor%2B1997%2BCHEVROLET%2BBLAZER%2B4.3L%2BV6%2BOHV

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1275409,parttype,7520,a,Search%2Bfor%2B1997%2BCHEVROLET%2BBLAZER%2B4.3L%2BV6%2BOHV

or 1st selection: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1275409,parttype,10444,a,Search%2Bfor%2B1997%2BCHEVROLET%2BBLAZER%2B4.3L%2BV6%2BOHV

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1275409,parttype,7600,a,Search%2Bfor%2B1997%2BCHEVROLET%2BBLAZER%2B4.3L%2BV6%2BOHV

Hey! I'm new to this forum and I'm having the same problem. I do have a stabilizer bar and I wasn't sure that was a problem until tonight. I ran my 99 Corolla up my ramps and crawled under it. I was looking for anything loose that was heavy and causing a knocking when going fairly slowly (under 30) and hitting bumps. I had my trusty rubber mallet and was trying to find anything loose without any luck. Then, for some reason, I hit the end of the stabilizer bar on the driver's side. It made a "tinny" sound while the passenger side sounded solid. I noticed a bit of rust on the stabilizer bar itself that looks a bit deep (can peel away the surface metal just where the bar bends. Am I looking at a new stabilizer bar or just link ends? I'm not sure. Any help on this would be appreciated.

Surface rust is normal - over time that bar will corrode slightly. But key your eye on it - if the corrosion is excessive (ie, eating into the bar), it will weaken the bar to the point of failing during operation.

Generally, replacing the bushings will tighten that up. Also check the end links and replace them if they are really bad. End links are notorious for corroding - usually don't need to worry about it until it is time to change the struts. But I've seen them so bad that they had to be cut off (bolt and nut completely rusted solid). Best time to replace them is when you can still get them off the bar - before they corrosion weld, replace them with OEM or equivalent + hit them with a little rust preventative to keep them clean over some time.

Usually, if they are gone - the struts are not too far behind. Toyota still tens to run struts and springs on the soft side - makes for a supple ride, but they also tend to wear out quickly. Usually once you approach 100K miles or 10 years - they are on borrowed time.

Thanks for the response. I believe this particular noise is probably from the link on the driver's side. That's where the sound (and feel) come from. I am probably ready for struts. I have just over 80,000 miles and have never changed them on this 13 year old car (going on 14). Most of my driving was short trips when I worked 1 1/2 miles from home, but with a change of jobs, I am driving about 15 freeway miles each way now.

I have been thinking about the struts for some time since the ride is getting rougher, but this "thunk" noise when going slowly over bumps is something new. I'll probably have my trusted mechanic have a look and see what he thinks. If he's going to service it, I will have him do the bushings at the same time.

Looks like it's time to put a few bucks into this trusty car so it will last for several more years. I haven't really had any problem with it other than replacing the power steering pump and the usual, regular maintenance type things. (I did get broad-sided several years back, but that was taken care of pretty well.)

OK. I had my front struts and springs replaced and the rear struts (not springs) along with 2 suspension links. Rides like new. Just need to get a new battery before winter and install my windshield washer reservoir and I'll be in good shape for awhile.

I am having the same noises and vibrations as the posters.

At the auto parts store they are trying to sell me on a complete strut, spring, and housing purchase. They sell for about $140.00. For just the strut it is about $60.

My question is why do I need to replace anything more than the strut?

I have a 2001 Corolla with 256,000 miles. Yes, the struts are original.

If the static ride height is abnormally low or if the car seems to lean one side or another, pitch forward or aft - then new springs might be in order. Generally speaking, usually the struts that go out first. Spring's primary job is to lift up the car and provide you with your ride height, load capacity, and gross handling. The struts are what controls (dampens the spring action) on rebound and compression - these are what gives the car its characteristic ride.

As for noises and vibrations - definitely do some diagnostic work first. The struts are likely to be shot by now (anything above 100K miles on OEM like struts, and you got your moneys worth), but may not be the major cause of the noise. Could be worn out bushings, worn end links, worn out upper strut mount, etc.

i have what sounds like a similar problem. the clunking comes from the drivers side. slower speeds very evident,faster speeds clunking only on big bumps or disappers. temps dont seem to come into play. last fall i had original struts replace with new KYB struts,strut bearings,the complete assemby etc. at 92k miles. all was fine until this winter. right now theres 4 feet of snow in chicagoland and no place for me to get under car for a look see. the car has trd springs,lowering 1 1/2" max. progressive rate street springs,nothing intense. the severe winter temps has causes the pavement on many local roads to buckle at the xpansion joints causeing rapid small bumps at low speeds and the clunck is really predominate then. I hope its only a sway bar bushing and not a control arm bushing. but until the weather warms and thaws i will just put up with the clunking that drives me nuts. i have no garage to use. i have noticed when i turn right at slow speed the clunking increases, turning left it decreases or stops until wheels return to straight driveing.

the above part references....big thank to dom. anybody concour with me?

I am not a mechanic. I have been dealing with a clunk in the front end of my 2001 corolla. I jacked up the front end (again) and took a good look around. From the inside, or rather under and on inside of the tire I grabbed the tire at the 12 and 6 positions and tried to move the tire. Did not budge. Then I tried the 3 and 9 position and noticed the while the tire moved the tie end rod did not move. There was a sound I did not notice before as well. I did the same to the other front tire and got no movement.

I replaced the tie rod and had huge improvement. Much less clunking !!! I will know more tomorrow after a run on the freeway.

Less vibration on the high speed test. More work and sounds to figure out.

Inner tie-rod ends (especially the driver's side) went first on my 2004. At 166,500 miles, my outer tie-rod ends are still fine. I also had to replace my front suspension's control arm rear rubber bushings. Driver's side was broken, and passenger side was completely unbonded. Also, front stabilizer bar to chassis mount bushings a couple times, and the end links (Use quality Moog). Front wheel bearings and all 4 struts every 60,000 miles or so.

Dom, if i understand you correctly...did you replace the front wheel bearings @ 60kmiles by choice or they were going bad? Next week in Chicagoland suppose to be 4-5 days of 40 degree temps. Time for a soggy look see under the front. Hopeing whatever it is its within my ability to R n R myself.



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