Hawk's recommended bedding in procedure:
- Make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure (Do not drag brakes)
- Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph (Do not drag brakes)
- Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down before use
I get occasionally, squealing and uneven braking from uneven deposits on the rotor. Sometimes it will go away on its own, sometimes takes some extra work (sanding the rotors helps). Sometimes a harder stops when the brakes are cold helps clean them up a bit. Might be able to just get away with those 2 to 3 hard stops, as the pads and rotors are already "seasoned" from use.
As for the rear drums - couple of tricks. Loosen the lugs a couple of turns, then drive around carefully while pumping the brakes - usually enough torque there to wiggle the drums off (make sure to let them cool off first). Or try hosing down the union between the hub lip and drum opening with some PB Blaster, then using two metric screws threaded into the two holes in the front of the drum face. Don't remember the size off hand - but it is the same as the spare tire hold-down nut. Couple of turns in each will pry the drum off. Make sure the e-brake isn't set when you do this. Watch for debris that gets flung off in the process. Last time I did this - instead of making those incremental popping noises and you can visually see the drum working away from the plate - it just made a loud "pop" noise and nearly jumped off the hub. After working on the brakes - hit the inside of the drum and the flange lip with some sandpaper - then smear on some antiseize to help prevent it sticking next time around. Don't need a lot - just a little bit to prevent direct metal on metal contact.