Gear Oil Change

I'm about to do this again--it's been a long time so i can't remember if i have to put new washers on every time. Do I? If so, can i get another kind of washer at the auto parts store. what is on there looks like a solid aluminum washer and i don't know if they carry them.

 

I'm at 100k no and the only problem i've had with this car is a corroded brake piston in the front causing the brake to stick. Not a biggie, but that's the only problem I've had.

Ben

Ben,

1) Not sure what year or type of transmission (transaxle) you have, but assuming it's a 98-08 model year in the USA with automatic transmission (3 or 4 speed). For the washers, if you want peace of mind just change them now, better than doing it later if it does start to leak in between changes when most people don't look at their car underneath regularly. With the low cost, you're better off just changing it now, though I am sure you could reuse if you wanted or had to.

They are aluminum washers, and generally if you go to the hardware store and get an "M18" it's the same. If not, here are the specs (pulled from Rockauto.com): DORMAN Part # 095149 {#0951491, 977751} Aluminum; Size; M18; Inside Dia: 0.720"/18.30mm; Outside Dia.: 0.937"/23.80mm; Thickness: 0.054"/1.37mm

2) If your transmission is a 3 speed automatic, the differential and transmission portions of the transaxle (commonly referred to as just an automatic transmission_ have separate fluid reservoirs internally. Make sure if you drain both areas that you fill them up both. The transmission is filled through the dip stick hole, and the differential through the bolt on the back of the housing facing the firewall if memory serves me correct. If you drain both plugs underneath the car, but only fill through the diptstick tube and not through the hole in the back of the transaxle, you will end up ruining the bearings inside the differential portion and it will be toast. Most shops do not know this, so keep this in mind if you have a 3 speed automatic.

If you have a 4 speed automatic, then the fluid is shared between the differential and transmission portions of the transaxle, and you need to only fill through the dipstick tube to replace fluid for both areas. If this varies on any particular year or model in the 98-08 USA model years I am sure Fish will chime in.

3) For the brake caliper, just replace it. Otherwise you're going to have unsafe brakes (bias braking which will get worse and move the steering wheel to one side under hard braking) and premature wear on the brake pads and rotor on the side that's sticking, costing you even more money. The calipers are only $30 - $50 generally for a remanufactured one, which is pretty cheap.

You can either get one at your local auto part store that may have a lifetime warranty included, or get one off Rockauto.com or elsewhere online. If you use Rockauto.com, use a 5% discount code such as 70797835872625 which is good till 12/4/11. If you have an Advance Auto Parts near you, order the part online as in-store pick up, then go pick it up at your local store you chose when ordering. That way you can use the discount code VISA and get $10.00 off your order.

For installation all you have to do is basically unbolt the caliper and bolt on the new one, then bleed your brake lines, very easy DIY. If any of the bolts are stuck, soak them in PB Blaster or your preferred penetrate and apple a little heat with a torch if needed (without overheating any lines or boots). Using a breaker bar and/or impact is always helpful. Hope this helps and good luck in your future endeavors.

What the best way to unbolt fill plug on differential (3 speed)?I did even try to use breaker bar, but space is too tight.