2000 Corolla Brake Line Replacement

Depends on where and how many hardlines you have to replace.

 

If you never bent steel tubing before - might be better to check on OEM replacements. Call around different dealerships - I know that some will charge you retail ~$200+ each, or cash price ~$75-$95 per line. Done it on a Camry for one line, the rest I just bought from the dealership. Also did it to several generations of muscle cars - some cases, there is no replacement part and you have to bend your own. Not a pleasant process.

Quality of the flaring tool is going to be the most important. Even the $50 set I had, couldn't get the right "double flare" end on the tube, would always leak. Granted, lengths of tubing is cheap - but after all the hours spent bending the tubing, wasn't worth my time in the end.

I received a reply from a Toyota dealer today and they quoted me $231.75 for the steel brake lines and the brake proportioning valve. Now I know I told them I had to replace "All the steel brake line" on my 2000 Corolla. Do you think that means all the steel line for the front and rear line including the the line between the master cylinder and the dist T and proportioning valve??? If so, would you say that is a good deal?

If it was "all" the hard lines - that is a pretty good deal. If possible, I'd have them tell your part numbers, so you can cross check them online to see if they are giving you all the lines and to compare costs.

I will email the dealer tonight and call them tomorrow. I will ask if their quote includes literally all the hard lines.

If it was "all" the hard lines - that is a pretty good deal. If possible, I'd have them tell your part numbers, so you can cross check them online to see if they are giving you all the lines and to compare costs.

I contacted the dealer today and as it turned out their original quote did not include the two lines going front to back. I did find out that all the brake lines are bent to match the original lines, so I went ahead and ordered all seven brake lines. I also ordered the brake proportioning valve, the three way dist block that bolts to the master cylinder, the "U" shaped clips for mounting the flex brake hoses and I ordered the fuel line (approx $80). I went on Advance Auto Parts web site and ordered all new brake hoses and rear wheel cylinders. I noticed that the filler neck to the gas tank could use replacing but I have spent enough for now.

For this year car the brake lines should all be 3/16" Japanese ended connectors.

Fuel line should all be 5/16".

I've replaced all of the brake line in our 1998, and all of the fuel line underneath the car. (the hard fuel line that ran in the engine bay, and a little that was left that ran above the gas tank I left because it was not rusted and I did not want to drop the gas tank)

When I did this, the cheapest and highest quality route I came up with was use hard line for all 3 straight sections underneath, and use the Goodyear RAE 30R9 rated fuel line part number GDY65152 to fit together the remaining hard line on the car to the metal sections I "spliced" in. (using clamps of course)

Brake line is all trial-and-error for bending once piece at a time until it fits perfectly. It was cheaper to purchase autostore line and rustproof it myself and put it on than it was to buy dealer pre-bent line. Plus, I don't think it would be physically possible to install pre-bent dealer line without taking apart a lot of stuff on the car to make room for the line.

Use plastic bags and rubber bands to cover the end of the lines while pushing them through sections under the car and getting them in place to prevent dirt and grime getting into the lines while you move them about. Then simply remove the bags once they are ready to be put together.

I also bought pre-flared sections and used double-inverted flare connectors so there was no room for error on my part of screwing up a flare on the line with a flare tool, because it was already done. I also use Permatex anti-seize on all the connectors so they don't rust into place if I would ever need to remove a section in the future.

Make sure to tighten the connectors so they are as tight as you can go without starting to round off the hex sides, so make sure you have the correct size wrench. When removing line already on the car, I cut the line close to the connector with a Dremel, then stick on a socket and ratchet the connector our. If a connector is stuck use a breaker bar or impact if you have to, but that should be last resort.

Before you remove lines, make sure you draw a picture and write down details to how the lines were routed before, and where they connect to, this will prevent and connections from being swapped when you go back to installing them.

Some other words of advice:

1) Rust-proof any hardlines before you put them back on, you will congratulate yourself later when you do not have to replace the lines again. RustBullet sold through SummitRacing will outlive just about anything.

2) When replacing fuel lines, if you use any sections that are not hard line, make sure you understand the difference between SAE 30R7 and SAE 30R9 standards and select the appropriate rated line. I used SAE30R9 only for all flexible places since it will withstand the ethanol content currently found in our gas, and much more beyond, and can be used for all lines, including pressure lines.

Line should say one of these SAE rating, as well as "fuel injection" hose, and whether it's capable of being used "in-tank" or "out-of-tank". If it doesn't, don't buy it.

3) If your are putting any soft lines in the fuel line sections, make sure to use high quality stainless-steel worm-style clamps so they last longer under corrosion circumstances than steel.

Here is some good information on the standards for the fuel line: http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Article/40607/tech_tip_avoid_comebacks_with_permeationresistant_fuel_line_hose.aspx

Here is the link to the Goodyear specs on the hose(line) I bought: http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144

Here is where I purchased the line I used for the cheapest price: http://www.autobarn.net/stifi-502.html

Here is a coupon to use if you decide to buy this line: use AUG10 at Checkout and Get 10% Off Any Order of $100 or More*

PLUS Free Shipping on Orders Over $50**, Offer Ends Sunday, August 7th

And most certainly don't forget to bleed your brakes when you are done. Best way I found was put the car up on all jacks with all the wheels off, and have another person help you by telling them when to pump to build pressure, then hold while you open the bleeder screw on the caliper or wheel cylinder. Go to your local hardware store and buy several feet of vinyl line from the plumping department for less than a dollar most times, and submerge one end in a little brake fluid in a plastic container, and the other end to the bleeder screw on the caliper. This will keep air from getting sucked back into the system. I bleed from closet sections to farther, so: FL, FR, LR, RR. Some people recommend doing the opposite, but I always make sure I have a firm pedal when done.

Make sure you don't brake the bleeder screw or you will have to buy a new caliper or wheel cylinder. (I would not recommend drilling out a broken screw as you might hurt the integrity of the threads left) Loosen a bleeder with a socket and ratchet, then use a screwdriver for open and closing during the bleeding process. If a bleeder is stuck, spray PB Blaster or a similar penetrate into the screw, and around, and let it soak for a day or 2 then try to loosen it. It should loosen fairly easily, otherwise you are going to brake it off.

I have also used a little heat from a portable propane heater before to loosen a seized screw. Just make sure you don't get heat close to any of the rubber line nearby or you will ruin it.

Hopefully all this information will help you with a smooth replacement job. Cheers.

I have all the hard brake line now along with the four flex lines, and new wheel cylinders.(the calipers were replaced a year or two ago) Now all I have to do is pray that I can remove most of the bolts that hold the clips to the car. There is one retainer just behind the driver side tie rod on the fire wall. All the hard lines (fuel, brake lines and emission lines)are routed through this retainer/clamp. The bolt on this clamp is needless to say rusted and not easy to get at. I was trying to see today if the bolt threads into the firewall. If it does, I hope I would have a chance at removing it intact. Does anyone have any experience in removing this clamp on a 2000 Corolla?

I have all the hard brake line now along with the four flex lines, and new wheel cylinders.(the calipers were replaced a year or two ago) Now all I have to do is pray that I can remove most of the bolts that hold the clips to the car. There is one retainer just behind the driver side tie rod on the fire wall. All the hard lines (fuel, brake lines and emission lines)are routed through this retainer/clamp. The bolt on this clamp is needless to say rusted and not easy to get at. I was trying to see today if the bolt threads into the firewall. If it does, I hope I would have a chance at removing it intact. Does anyone have any experience in removing this clamp on a 2000 Corolla?

If you post a picture of what you mean exactly I can tell you what you are looking at. But for any clips I wasn't going to reuse, and if you mean specifically if it's the black plastic clip that clamps onto all the fuel and brake line going down, that thing I cut and discarded. I used a dremel. Just be VERY careful you don't hit the CV boot by accident and cut it, or you will end up needing a new joint soon. The bolt that holds the clamp onto the car is impossible to fit a wrench up to, so cutting the plastic so I could get the metal lines out was the only option I could think of. When putting back together, purchase another clamp and put on the lines lower to keep them together when reinstalling.

I replaced my brake and fuel lines today. The clip on the firewall that the fuel line, brake lines and Evap lines go through was reused . Yes, the bolt that holds the clip to the firewall is very difficult to get at with a wrench but I was took my time and went through the Driver side opening in the wheel well for the tie rod. I was only able to turn it a little at a time but it came out. The bolt was longer than it needed to be, so I replaced it with a shorter one. Reinstalling the clip was very time consuming since the lines did not want to line up. ALso, I had a lot of trouble with the fuel line. I swear the fuel line I installed is to short by about 3/4" along the bottom of the car and it would not lay flt along the bottom of the car up near the firewall. IN any event, I got everything back together and bled the brakes today. Brakes seem funny though and I may re-bleed them this weekend. I got a lot of air out of the Driver side rear wheel, a lot more than the P/S rear wheel and I was still getting more out when I decided to stop and bleed the front wheels. I will wait and see how it drives and re-bleed all four wheels Sunday. Wish I had a pressure bleeder!

I use speed bleeders. they are a real time saver. Its a bleeder valve with a spring and check ball.