For this year car the brake lines should all be 3/16" Japanese ended connectors.
Fuel line should all be 5/16".
I've replaced all of the brake line in our 1998, and all of the fuel line underneath the car. (the hard fuel line that ran in the engine bay, and a little that was left that ran above the gas tank I left because it was not rusted and I did not want to drop the gas tank)
When I did this, the cheapest and highest quality route I came up with was use hard line for all 3 straight sections underneath, and use the Goodyear RAE 30R9 rated fuel line part number GDY65152 to fit together the remaining hard line on the car to the metal sections I "spliced" in. (using clamps of course)
Brake line is all trial-and-error for bending once piece at a time until it fits perfectly. It was cheaper to purchase autostore line and rustproof it myself and put it on than it was to buy dealer pre-bent line. Plus, I don't think it would be physically possible to install pre-bent dealer line without taking apart a lot of stuff on the car to make room for the line.
Use plastic bags and rubber bands to cover the end of the lines while pushing them through sections under the car and getting them in place to prevent dirt and grime getting into the lines while you move them about. Then simply remove the bags once they are ready to be put together.
I also bought pre-flared sections and used double-inverted flare connectors so there was no room for error on my part of screwing up a flare on the line with a flare tool, because it was already done. I also use Permatex anti-seize on all the connectors so they don't rust into place if I would ever need to remove a section in the future.
Make sure to tighten the connectors so they are as tight as you can go without starting to round off the hex sides, so make sure you have the correct size wrench. When removing line already on the car, I cut the line close to the connector with a Dremel, then stick on a socket and ratchet the connector our. If a connector is stuck use a breaker bar or impact if you have to, but that should be last resort.
Before you remove lines, make sure you draw a picture and write down details to how the lines were routed before, and where they connect to, this will prevent and connections from being swapped when you go back to installing them.
Some other words of advice:
1) Rust-proof any hardlines before you put them back on, you will congratulate yourself later when you do not have to replace the lines again. RustBullet sold through SummitRacing will outlive just about anything.
2) When replacing fuel lines, if you use any sections that are not hard line, make sure you understand the difference between SAE 30R7 and SAE 30R9 standards and select the appropriate rated line. I used SAE30R9 only for all flexible places since it will withstand the ethanol content currently found in our gas, and much more beyond, and can be used for all lines, including pressure lines.
Line should say one of these SAE rating, as well as "fuel injection" hose, and whether it's capable of being used "in-tank" or "out-of-tank". If it doesn't, don't buy it.
3) If your are putting any soft lines in the fuel line sections, make sure to use high quality stainless-steel worm-style clamps so they last longer under corrosion circumstances than steel.
Here is some good information on the standards for the fuel line: http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Article/40607/tech_tip_avoid_comebacks_with_permeationresistant_fuel_line_hose.aspx
Here is the link to the Goodyear specs on the hose(line) I bought: http://www.goodyearep.com/ProductsDetail.aspx?id=5144
Here is where I purchased the line I used for the cheapest price: http://www.autobarn.net/stifi-502.html
Here is a coupon to use if you decide to buy this line: use AUG10 at Checkout and Get 10% Off Any Order of $100 or More*
PLUS Free Shipping on Orders Over $50**, Offer Ends Sunday, August 7th
And most certainly don't forget to bleed your brakes when you are done. Best way I found was put the car up on all jacks with all the wheels off, and have another person help you by telling them when to pump to build pressure, then hold while you open the bleeder screw on the caliper or wheel cylinder. Go to your local hardware store and buy several feet of vinyl line from the plumping department for less than a dollar most times, and submerge one end in a little brake fluid in a plastic container, and the other end to the bleeder screw on the caliper. This will keep air from getting sucked back into the system. I bleed from closet sections to farther, so: FL, FR, LR, RR. Some people recommend doing the opposite, but I always make sure I have a firm pedal when done.
Make sure you don't brake the bleeder screw or you will have to buy a new caliper or wheel cylinder. (I would not recommend drilling out a broken screw as you might hurt the integrity of the threads left) Loosen a bleeder with a socket and ratchet, then use a screwdriver for open and closing during the bleeding process. If a bleeder is stuck, spray PB Blaster or a similar penetrate into the screw, and around, and let it soak for a day or 2 then try to loosen it. It should loosen fairly easily, otherwise you are going to brake it off.
I have also used a little heat from a portable propane heater before to loosen a seized screw. Just make sure you don't get heat close to any of the rubber line nearby or you will ruin it.
Hopefully all this information will help you with a smooth replacement job. Cheers.