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1995 Corolla No Start Problem

By drunkenmonkey0, June 26, 2011 in Pre-1997 Toyota Corolla and Geo Prizm



Hello,

 

 

I had just dropped my friend off and turned my car off for a couple minutes. When I tried to start it again, it doesn't work. There was no sound at all, no clicking... I did notice a couple odd things though. When I turned my key to ON, usually all the warning lights on the dash panel would lite up but not this time. Now the only warning light i see was the seat belt sign when i turn the key to ON. Secondly, the radiator fan would run every time i turn the key to ACC or ON. And even after I remove the key from the ignition switch the radiator fan would continue to run, and the only way to stop it is to remove the battery contact for one second or so.

 

I tried boosting it with another vehicle and it's still the same result. I checked all the fuses and they seemed fine, also I changed the starter solenoid contacts less than 4 months ago. After a few hours of googling, I suspect the problem is caused by a short either on the ignition switch or somewhere else.

 

First question is, is there a way to start the car so i can move to my house. I really don't want to waste $80 towing it.

 

Second, does replacing the ignition switch http://cgi.ebay.ca/9...0#ht_500wt_1156 fix this problem?

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Vince

Stupid question, but here goes: Have you made sure the battery isn't discharged? I've seen cars do some crazy stuff with a weak battery, opening trunks, unlocking/locking doors, attempting to crank themselves (remote start) all unattended. A 95 is probably less likely to appear possessed, but who knows.

Stupid question, but here goes: Have you made sure the battery isn't discharged? I've seen cars do some crazy stuff with a weak battery, opening trunks, unlocking/locking doors, attempting to crank themselves (remote start) all unattended. A 95 is probably less likely to appear possessed, but who knows.

Yep, I forgot to add that I also used another car to boost it and still the same. so it's not the battery.

  • 149 posts

When you had the boost battery attached did the dash lights and headlights work?

headlight works even without the boost battery, the warning signs on the dash still does not work when i turn the key to ON.

When you had the boost battery attached did the dash lights and headlights work?

If there was some way you could put an ECM reader (or whatever those things are called), you may get some codes which would tell you what's going on. If it was me, I'd go ahead and replace the switch.

I ordered an ECM reader a couple weeks ago, but due to the Canada Post strike it has not arrived yet. I tried hot wiring the ignition but still the same result.

If there was some way you could put an ECM reader (or whatever those things are called), you may get some codes which would tell you what's going on. If it was me, I'd go ahead and replace the switch.

So I removed the starter and tested it, and it still working fine. There are two wires running to the starter, one for the starter and the other is for the starter solenoid or switch. There is power on the wire running to the starter but not on the wire running to the starter switch when i start the car. I tested the starter relay and it's still fine. I bypassed the ignition switch by hot wiring the car and got same result.

That sounds like it you got it narrowed down to the switch as the potential culprit. Might be a good idea to buzz out the switch and see if the contacts on it are worn out - just to verify that the switch is truely at fault.

did you mean the starter solenoid switch? If so, it's working fine when i manually connect it to a 12 volt source. Also i replaced the contact and the plunger in the solenoid less than 3 months ago.

Does anyone has a detail electrical diagram for the 7th generation starting system?

thanks

That sounds like it you got it narrowed down to the switch as the potential culprit. Might be a good idea to buzz out the switch and see if the contacts on it are worn out - just to verify that the switch is truely at fault.

Opps - should have been more clear. Most likely it is the ignition switch, itself, or the wiring between the ignition switch to the solenoid switch, that it the culprit. The fan coming on and staying on after removing the key makes it more likely it is the ignition switch.



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