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How Much Slack In Timing Chain Is Ok?

By grim, June 9, 2011



I recently replaced the valve cover gasket and noticed a lot of play in the timing chain, but I have no clue how much is acceptable. Also, is there any way to tell if the slack is from the tensioner being bad, versus chain stretch without opening up the engine further?

Here is a short video I shot of it off my cell phone.

[media]http://www.youtube.c...h?v=UNFijDX45jM [/media]

You can always remove the chain tensioner and see of the "arm" is extended outwards and not jammed up. Otherwise, it is tough to tell if it is from a bad tensioner or chain stretch without tearing it down a bit more. Also, since the valvecover is off, check the valve clearances too - perfect time to do so.

Chain should be replaced when you exceed 122.6mm over 16 fully extended chain "links". Verify by checking at least two other spots in the chain. Minimum camshaft and crankshaft sprocket diameters are camshaft 97.3 mm, crankshaft 51.6 mm. There are also wear indicators on the chain guides, but you'll have to tear down the nose of the engine to get at them. If I had to go through all that work, I'd just rebuild the how thing.

From your video - that amount of slack doesn't seem to be right, unless you backed off one of the sprockets. Moving that much could have jumped the timing a tooth or too as well. The 1ZZ-FE is an interference type, so that could potentially be very bad. When I last took the valvecover off my 2002 - I don't remember it having slack like that at the sprockets. Pics:

I was planning to do my valvecover (preventative, check valve clearances) and replace a leaky timing chain tensioner on my 2002 this weekend, assuming the weather cooperates - I'd double check the chain tension on mine. Mine has a hair over 180K miles.

+1 on removing the tensioner to make sure it is engaged properly. That was really a lot of slack in the video!

Thanks for the help! I figure I might as well replace the tensioner if I'm going to pull it, as there is some leaking. New problem, can't find the part! My local parts stores don't have the tensioner or a part number for it, "Our system is telling me your car isn't equipped with this" default_blink. I think I found the part number from dshadle1's DIY 13540-0D010, but all the shops said it wasn't showing anything.

I forgot to mention this is a 99 3spd automatic.

Thanks for the help! I figure I might as well replace the tensioner if I'm going to pull it, as there is some leaking. New problem, can't find the part! My local parts stores don't have the tensioner or a part number for it, "Our system is telling me your car isn't equipped with this" default_blink. I think I found the part number from dshadle1's DIY 13540-0D010, but all the shops said it wasn't showing anything.

 

I forgot to mention this is a 99 3spd automatic.

The part # is different for the 99:

13540-22021

However I'm pretty sure it's all the same part. The way it works is that once they give a newer model a new part # for the SAME part, then all models with that engine "move up" to the new number as well. Why have 5 or 8 different numbers for the same piece of equipment, just because there are different model years out there? At least that's their logic.

I'm finishing up messing with it again, the tensioner is the issue. The shaft seems to be turning in the housing, causing it to stick. I tried cleaning it up, and I thought I had it working again. I was checking the valve clearances, and as I was setting to TDC I could see the chain jumping around as the tensioner would stick and release. I'm a little relieved it's only the tensioner, and the timing still looks to be right but it's wrecking my nerves to know I have to drive it like this till I can get the part shipped.

Thanks for all the help!



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