OK, here are some comments on changing the struts. Some bolts were way harder to loosen than I expected. I think it took me over 4 hours and a lot of frustration for each side. If you ever attempt this job, I would strongly recommend allowing enough time so that you can do the job over several days so that you aren't in a rush. Next time I need to change struts, I will probably just go to a shop. They will have it easier since they have a lift and air tools (and torque wrenches if they use them). I just had jack stands and a decent set of sockets and wrenches. Anyway, I learned a lot.
I changed the struts, strut mounts, and the sway bar links. I figured that as long as I had to take those things apart, I might as well change them because the cost of the parts is a lot less than the time and effort to do the job again.
The biggest recommendation that I would make is to break the top nut loose on the struts before you do anything (even before jacking up the car). Don't take the nut off, just break it free. Getting the nut loosened once the strut is off and the spring is compressed is a huge pain.
For the sway bar links, you only have to take one end of the sway bar link off (the end that attaches to the strut) to change the strut. The nut is a pain to remove because it is torqued like crazy, somewhat corroded, and it tends to spin the ball joint on the link rather than remove the nut. There is a 6mm inset in the stud to keep the joint from turning, so you need a 6mm Allen wrench end for your socket set. Unfortunately, it is way too easy to strip that 6mm inset because it doesn't go very deep and is full of crud. Use on old toothbrush to clean out the crud before even starting. You think you are halfway done when you remove the end of the link that attaches to the strut. If you are taking off the other end that attaches to the sway bar, I think it was five times more difficult. The nut is facing the opposite direction (away from you) and there is less room to work. On one side, I spent two hours trying to get this think off. The hex inset stripped and I had to resort to big vise grips and ruining the grease seal. I almost had to resort to a hack saw.
The two big bolts that attach the bottom of the strut to the steering knuckle are not as hard to remove as you would think, but you still need a nice long breaker bar and maybe a hammer.
The three mounting nuts that attach the struts to the body are easy.
I used a loaner spring compressor from my local auto parts store to compress the spring and disassemble the strut. My recommendation would be to take your time and use care in reassembly. The strut top plate needs to be reinstalled so that the wider part is facing the outside of the vehicle, so make sure you know the proper orientation before disassembly. I didn't do any wheel alignment like some people recommend. I will watch my tire wear, but I don't see how the alignment could have changed significantly.
Bolt sizes are:
Brake line bracket 14mm
Swaybar link 17 mm (6 mm hex inset)
Steering knuckle bolts 19 mm