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What Motor Oil Do You Use In Your Corollas?

By 02 corolla April 3, 2010



Hi!

I drive a 2002 Corolla CE with 119,000 miles on it. I bought it with 110,000 miles on it last June. When i first got the car, i used Mobil 1 5w-30 in it. I am thinking about switching back to Regular Oil Because:

1. I tried use Mobile 1 5w-30, M1 10w-30 and M1 5w-30 High mileage. It didn't stop the oil consumption rate in which is 1 qt for 1000 miles right now.

2. some people had luck with Valvoline Maxlife slowing the consumption rate, i can also save $$.

3. I thought about engine repair, but i really can't afford a hefty repair, because i am a student.

What oil do you use in your Corollas?

Oh i forgot to tell you guys it is in the shop, because of check engine light code P0420(Catalytic) and P0133(02 sensor). Their plan is to go for the cheaper way by replacing the 02 sensor in bank 1.

I have heard some people say you have to stay with synthetic oil once you used it, and there is no going back...And i have heard that you can go back whenever you want and you can even mix different oils. someone told me the regular oil sold in the U.S are very similar to synthetic oil in terms of additives , so just ignore the old sayings and switch back.....

I have a relatively new Corolla, which does not have an oil consumption issue at this stage of its life, so I am using regular synthetic 5w-30 oil in it.

I guess my advice for your car would be to stay with synthetic 5w-30 oil that is designated for “high mileage” cars, (that are consuming some oil due to ring wear or valve guide seal wear, etc).

My experience with engines that consume oil past the rings or valve guide seals can be summed up as follows:

“High mileage” synthetic oil will reduce consumption, compared to“high mileage” conventional oil, because the viscosity of the synthetic oil will not shear down as much through use.

Synthetic oil has a higher flash temperature, (temperature it ignites at) but once it does ignite in a warmed up combustion chamber, it burns completely with very little smoke or residue left behind to foul the spark plugs, and then oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. This also makes a case for letting your car warm up a little before you put much load on it, especially first thing in the morning, so you are less likely to foul the plugs during warm up, even with synthetics).

I realize the synthetic oils cost more than conventional oil, but my experience has been that they are worth it, because once the plugs start fouling, with the unburned residue left behind from conventional oil, the car will run very poorly and the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter can be ruined in relatively short order by unburned fuel from the cylinders with fouled plugs. You should probably have new spark plugs and a new Positive Crankcase Ventilation, (PCV) valve put in your car as well. A clean air filter is important too, because the car is running a little “richer” with the blow by oil in there. The last thing it needs is to run even richer yet due to a dirty air filter element. These maintenance items are relatively cheap insurance to try to counteract the consequences of oil consumption in an engine.

You may be able to save some money by shopping for “high mileage” synthetic oil in 5 gallon jugs at Wal-Mart or another discount store. Mobil 1 High Mileage and Valvoline High Mileage Full Synthetic are thought to be two of the better products on the market. I would use which ever one you can buy for less money.

I am having my BF change my oil tomorrow. My oil lamp has come on twice in the past 4 weeks. Both happened when I was making a sharp left turn. First time happened 3 weeks ago, the second time happened today. Is there anyway he could check to see if I have an oil leak/consumption issue? What are things to look for? How can you tell?

I use synthetic 5W30 high mileage oil. I have all the supplies needed to change the oil. My 99 Corolla currently has 120K miles on it (approx)

Opps... correction: I meant to say, You may be able to save some money by shopping for “high mileage” synthetic oil in 5 quart jugs at Wal-Mart or another discount store. Mobil 1 High Mileage and Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage Full Synthetic are thought to be two of the better products on the market. I would use which ever one you can buy for less money.

Opps... correction: I meant to say, You may be able to save some money by shopping for “high mileage” synthetic oil in 5 quart jugs at Wal-Mart or another discount store. Mobil 1 High Mileage and Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage Full Synthetic are thought to be two of the better products on the market. I would use which ever one you can buy for less money.

guys, I just buy the cheapest, regular 5w30 I can find.

the engine does not burn any oil yet.

Corolla VE 2000

156K miles

I use Castrol GTX 10W30 every 3000-3500 miles, FRAM Filter

Last time, I used high mileage Castrol GTX

My car burns a bit of oil on long highway trips, so I use 10W30. If I use 5W30, it burns much faster. Also, I live in Texas, so my winters are really mild.

Turns out my car had very low oil...so, I assume that must mean it's indeed burning oil? Well, I used to change it every 3500 miles, but then I was told I didn't have to do it every 3500 miles, so this time I waited till I am almost at the 5K mark, but I guess that's too long a wait...so I guess I should have it changed every 4500 miles instead?

10w30 every 3000 miles

My mechanic told me to get Valvoline MaxLife, but ever since I noticed it was labeled 'Synthetic Blend' I stopped buying it, and went with Penzoil. However, thanks to this thread, I did a little research and found some info on MaxLife from Valvoline's website.

MaxLife Synthetic Blend motor oil is actually the same product as regular MaxLife. MaxLife has always been a synthetic blend oil; we just now label the product that way. It is the same oil as before. As long as you have used MaxLife, you have used synthetic blended oil.

MaxLife Synthetic Blend contains 30% synthetic and 70% conventional.

So I guess I'll start buying it again. They should've known putting the word "synthetic" on the label would discourage buyers.

 

 

  • 149 posts
Turns out my car had very low oil...so, I assume that must mean it's indeed burning oil? Well, I used to change it every 3500 miles, but then I was told I didn't have to do it every 3500 miles, so this time I waited till I am almost at the 5K mark, but I guess that's too long a wait...so I guess I should have it changed every 4500 miles instead?

You have to check the oil between changes !! 5k mileage is good for an oil change interval but PLEASE check the oil in between, you will have to top it up.....

Update

My check engine light is fixed.

I changed to Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic Blend 5w-30 from Mobil 1 High mileage 5w-30.......

I have noticed a little louder engine sound on my way home after i did my oil change at my friend's house. every time i press the gas pedal the engine sounds like KA ZA KA ZA KAZA for a bit then deceases, and a little tapping sound. I checked the dipstick in which it recorded a little lower than 2nd dot. So the Oil is fine.Anyone know why is that? did switching motor oil caused that?

Thanks

  • 149 posts
Update

 

My check engine light is fixed.

I changed to Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic Blend 5w-30 from Mobil 1 High mileage 5w-30.......

I have noticed a little louder engine sound on my way home after i did my oil change at my friend's house. every time i press the gas pedal the engine sounds like KA ZA KA ZA KAZA for a bit then deceases, and a little tapping sound. I checked the dipstick in which it recorded a little lower than 2nd dot. So the Oil is fine.Anyone know why is that? did switching motor oil caused that?

Thanks

 

Did you forget to put the oil cap back on after adding the oil ??...

Update

My check engine light is fixed.

I changed to Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic Blend 5w-30 from Mobil 1 High mileage 5w-30.......

I have noticed a little louder engine sound on my way home after i did my oil change at my friend's house. every time i press the gas pedal the engine sounds like KA ZA KA ZA KAZA for a bit then deceases, and a little tapping sound. I checked the dipstick in which it recorded a little lower than 2nd dot. So the Oil is fine.Anyone know why is that? did switching motor oil caused that?

Thanks

 

Did you forget to put the oil cap back on after adding the oil ??...

The Oil fill Cap is On.

Some oils tend to run a little thinner than others - the 1ZZ-FE engine is already pretty noisy, so a lighter oil (doesn't automatically mean less protection) may not mask as much sound as before. If the oil change was fairly recent, keep an eye on the oil fill level and note any gross changes over the next couple of hundred of miles or so.

I'm assuming the oil was changed by yourself? If done by a shop, see how they refill the crankcase. Some use a gun to refill the crankcase, some use a funnel - in either case note that they don't jam the nozzle/funnel into the oil fill opening. There are a number of instances where those oil guns / hard funnels actually distorted the metal baffle in the valvecover. This caused the camshaft to make physical contact with baffle, with usually ddire results. Even so, it may take a while before problems crop up - that's why you have to be conscience of how they treat your car when you take it in to the shop.

friendly_jacek

Do you mean you have engine knock now?

Do you mean you have engine knock now?

Not necessarily. I think the new oil has settled down a little now.... I noticed the same noise in the morning on my way to school, but 5 minutes later the engine got quieter......

 

 

Some oils tend to run a little thinner than others - the 1ZZ-FE engine is already pretty noisy, so a lighter oil (doesn't automatically mean less protection) may not mask as much sound as before. If the oil change was fairly recent, keep an eye on the oil fill level and note any gross changes over the next couple of hundred of miles or so.

 

I'm assuming the oil was changed by yourself? If done by a shop, see how they refill the crankcase. Some use a gun to refill the crankcase, some use a funnel - in either case note that they don't jam the nozzle/funnel into the oil fill opening. There are a number of instances where those oil guns / hard funnels actually distorted the metal baffle in the valvecover. This caused the camshaft to make physical contact with baffle, with usually ddire results. Even so, it may take a while before problems crop up - that's why you have to be conscience of how they treat your car when you take it in to the shop.

 

I did the oil change myself.

Question Fish!

So synthetic oil is heavier than conventional oil? And it is better to use a funnel to fill the engine than to use a oil gun, because oil gun will twist the metal baffle in the valvecover?

Correct, oil gun will push down the baffle and it could make contact with the cam. Just search online for valvecover baffle damage due to quick lube oil guns. Not just the Corolla, Celicas, Matrix, and others also had this issue. May have extended to other makes and models as well.

As for synthetic being heavier or lighter than conventional oil - it depends on the oil viscosity (oil weight) and the manufacturer's blend/formula. On average, synthetics tend to be "thinner" than conventional oils of comparable weight. Some oils shear down in viscosity, get thinner, as they are being used in the engine. Some to the point where they actually drop in weight (start with a 5W30 and end up with a 5W20). Others tends to shear up, get heavier, as they are being used in the engine - some so aggressively that they might start out as a 5W30 and end up close to a 40 weight.

To get an idea of what the visocity of the virgin motor oil - look up the manufacturing specs. There is a data sheet for almost all oils, look at the viscosity index and fluid properties (usually tested at 40º C and 100º C). Note that the numbers may not be applicable between brands, to confuse the matter - some manufacturers list kinematic oil viscosity (units of centistrokes or cSt) and others use absolute viscosity (units of centipoise or cP). Some might also report Saybolt Universal Seconds (SUS or SSU) measurements for viscosity. If this is all confusing, don't worry, you are not alone.

Best way to go about this (though also more costly) - try a crankcase of oil motor oil, pull two oil samples - one of virgin motor oil, one right when you are draining the oil motor oil at your usually oil change interval. Try a crankcase of another motor oil, repeat. Note how much the viscosity "shears" up or down, over time, note the additive package used. I personally used Blackstone labs for my oil analysis, as they give you a pretty detailed analysis of the oil in question and comments about its makeup and performance. Can get pricey, last time I sent in a sample - was about $20 + shipping, but this is the most accurate way to determine what is going on.

The oils that I've used on my own cars over the years

- Valvoline line (All-Climate, Durablend, Maxlife, and Synpower)

- Royal Purple

- Mobil 1 synthetic

- Castrol (GTX conventions, Syntec synthetic, German Castrol)

- Redline synthetic

- Amsoil synthetic

- Pennsoil Platinum

- Havoline synthetic

- Mobil Delvac (diesel motor oil)

- Shell Rotella (diesel motor oil)

- Syntech synthetic (Walmart)

The ones that work the best for me are:

Valvoline Synpower - little on the thin side, but stays pretty close to grade even over 7K-10K miles, pushed this as far as 14K miles before the additive pack was depleted (TBN < 2).

German Castrol (sometimes called GC Castrol) - hard to find but works very well, little thicker than Mobil or Valvoline, stays in grade even on extended drains.

Pennsoil Platinum - used this whenever it runs on sale, can be very inexpensive compared to the others, tends to run a little heavier than the others, also tends to shear up (get heavier).

Mobil 1 - my mainstay, extended drain motor oil, can buy it anywhere, on sale from time to time, tends to run thin and can shear down quickly. Pushed this oil the furthest, 18K miles before the add pack was toast. Run only Mobil 1 on the Matrix, ran a good portion of my Corolla's lifespan on Mobil 1.

Redline - only one I use on my project cars, 25+ years and zero engine failures even when I pushed it way past stupid.

Diesel motor oils are my clean up oils - strong solvency and dispersants make these a good "flushing", engine cleaning oil. Much less aggressive than solvent flushes, they also have a decent price point and by design can handle abuses that gasoline engine oils cannot. I don't run them all the time because their additive pack can poison a catalytic converter.



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