Thanks Fish, I think I might as well do the 2zz swap then (I was really trying to avoid it), I mean the motor is out of the car already, thats half of the work right. As a clarification the only reason i wanted to use the 1zz was becuase i heard it had a stronger bottom end than the 2zz (I dont know how true that is). I heard that it was able to hold up better to boosting than the 2zz as the 2zz had lighter internals.
For now I think that Im going to go ahead and continue with the 1zz, I've read people have made up to 400+ hp on these motors, Im not shooting that high Id be happy with 200-220hp and maybe 180ft/lbs of torque. Do you have any suggestions on how to do that, especially on the internals.
Yeah, both engines will make power - just in different ways. The 2ZZ-GE is known to make tangible gains with bolt-ons that enable better breathing and exhaust - like the previous G-series heads, it was optimized from the start for better breathing. Doesn't mean that the 1ZZ-FE is poor in comparison, just won't respond as well with the same mods. Since you are thinking of boost, this makes it less of an issue. Already starting out with lower compression - the 1ZZ-FE has a little more flexibility with boosting. Also being an undersquare engine - you'll tend to see more torque produced in this engine under boost compared to the 2ZZ-GE.
There are quite a few boosted 1ZZ-FE, so there is good wealth of knowledge, tried and trued processes. Most run boost levels from as low as 6PSI to as much as 12PSI on more or less a stock engine. Upgrades to the engine itself were generally larger injectors, stronger oil pump, high capacity oil pan, and larger fuel pump. Some ran air-air intercoolers, some ran without (low boost only, even then it is pretty dangerous). Typical number with boosting 10-12PSI were 190-210HP/190-210TQ. Couple that with a little port and polish, maybe drop in some better cams - 220-230HP/TQ is definitely possible. Being non-VVTi makes it somewhat easier to tune in the past, but doesn't really matter now. Before support was pretty lacking for VVT-i and VVTL-i, now support is growing, tuner knowledge base is also increasing.
This doesn't mean that boost is the only way to go - just one option. What I've seen N/A option wise for a 1ZZ-FE on a stock bottom end (OEM crank is pretty tough - 2ZZ-GE stroked and boosted projects use stock 1ZZ-FE cranks!):
- sleeve the block (bore to 1.93L)
- quality piston (82mm to match the larger bore - CR matches OEM or push to 12.5:1, depends on the build direction)
- upgrade to billet rods
- new bearings, main and head studs
- upgraded oil pump (Circuitwerx gears)
- Moroso oil pan (higher capacity)
- Crower Stage 3 cams (new springs and retainers)
- upgraded valves and seals
- port and polish head (get the head from MR2 has larger valves)
- custom intake manifold with larger throttlebody
- custom header + catback
- higher capacity fuel pump
- appropriate sized injectors
- EMS system (Apexi PowerFC, Megasquirt, AEM, etc.)
Might make up to 180-200HP with those mods, depending on the tune. Amount of cash outlay would be equivalent to the boosted application - so you don't really "save" money. Some just like N/A option. Definitely more work involved here, but you can also look at this as a potential starting point for future boost projects - since you just built up the engine internally. Only thing that will limit this is time and money. Parts are already out there - just need to bring it together.