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Diy Info - Some Uncommon Maintenance Items

By fishexpo101, April 20, 2009

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Thank you fishexpo101 for the part number!

You are a godsent in these forums!

Fish, great write-up! I've done a few of these, but like someone else mentioned, the Haynes manual is not up to snuff with some of this stuff, so I will have to do it now. My question is if you can do something like this for the VSV. I located it and can take it off of the side of the air box, but don't know what to do from there, what to look for, clean or replace, check interval, etc.

Also, if I take the hose off of the PCV valve (not the valve itself, just the hose) and start the car, should the car run relatively normal or will it "act up" and fight to run? I did this today (before reading this post), and that is exactly what happened (I turned it off immediately, obviously).

Thanks!

There isn't much to do with that VSV - you could try taking it apart, but that might lead to more problems in the attempt to "fix" it. You could wire a 9V battery and some alligator clip leads to the VSV - see if it "clicks" when you briefly apply power to the pins (don't remember which pins off the top of my head - should be a diagram of it online somewhere). If you get no click - the VSV is defective - just replace it. If it clicks, but not every time you tap the pins - then it might be mechanically stuck. Sometimes bits of dirt or corrosion can cause the valve part to stick. Could be as simple as prying the housing off, removing the internal valve, cleaning the corrosion off, then reassemble. But the tricky part is to open it up without destroying the valve - for this little guy, I'd just replace it (time/money wise). The large valves on the vapor canister - those you might be able to play with.

friendly_jacek

 

** Yeah the paper filter inside it does make a great job keeping the inside of my TB and Intake nice and clean. thou i usually have to replace one or two of these little filters every oil change.. Here is a pic of what it looks like when is time ti get rid of it.....

http://

On this pic it actually shows the way the plastic walls begin to collapse on the paper filter when its really full of nasty stuff..

 

Is that a fuel filter? What is the source? I will try something like this myself. Does it metter which way it's plugged in?

 

** Yeah the paper filter inside it does make a great job keeping the inside of my TB and Intake nice and clean. thou i usually have to replace one or two of these little filters every oil change.. Here is a pic of what it looks like when is time ti get rid of it.....

http://

On this pic it actually shows the way the plastic walls begin to collapse on the paper filter when its really full of nasty stuff..

Is that a fuel filter? What is the source? I will try something like this myself. Does it metter which way it's plugged in?

Yeah, its one of those fram G2 fuel filters.

I think it does have a little arrow on it saying wich way is supossed to go.

Hi Fishexpo101

This post saved me a lot of money on my 2001 Corolla thank you!

Also, due to this forum, I was able to diagnose P0446 to the VSV above the canister... After resetting my engine check light it came on after every 30 miles or so with P0446. The old VSV was stuck open, I could blow air thru it....

BTW: This is not the below link is not the right replacement... the nipples have to be on the same side....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042OX8VS/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=corolland-20&psc=1

I had to put zip ties to secure it... anyway passed the emissions ...

thank you!

SS

bump

Bad_dude

Hey Fish,

Give us more on OCV filter and the VVT-i. Give us the DIY.

Thanks.

Hey Fish,

Give us more on OCV filter and the VVT-i. Give us the DIY.

Thanks.

It's already there down in the first post of this thread.

Bad_dude

Thanks Dom,

So what other symptoms if this filter clogs up? What usually cause the clog?

 

Hey Fish,

Give us more on OCV filter and the VVT-i. Give us the DIY.

Thanks.

It's already there down in the first post of this thread.

mark, bump

fish, i was reading somewhere that a carb cleaner should not be used to clean MAF as it may leave residue, only MAF cleaner....

What are the solvents ?? I assume some varsol type (benzene ring) of solvent ?? highly volatile dino product ??

There was no MSDS material safety data sheet... no chemicals listed.

....ketone and ester solvents used in carburetor and fuel injector cleaners ??

these are very volatile, it seemed they evaporate rapidly. Do they leave residue

on the MAF ??

Unfortunately , there is no chemical composition stated on the cans.

I first used throttle body cleaner.., then went and bought a MAF cleaner

and sprayed it again.

I forgot my chemistry, forgive me wise one... default_sad

I forgot my organic chemistry, I struggled in university.

If it is just carb cleaner - it may leave a light coating of oil on the part after the solvent evaporates. Most of the carb cleaners out there now are actually carb/throttle body cleaners. Those generally evaporate pretty cleanly, very little oil left behind - but always a good idea to check them out on something else first - like aluminum foil, just to see if they leave some oil behind. Each brand uses their own blend of solvents - some actually list them all in the MSDS some just say generic solvent or proprietory blend. Most are likely a Stoddard solvent - or white solvent. Naphtha, mineral turpentine, mineral spirits - are all Stoddard solvents. Mix of aromatic hydrocarbons like benzene, hexane, butane, xylene, MEK, and more. Stoddard solvents make up a large portion of Marvel Mystery Oil - reason why it works well to break down sludge and varnish. Also can be used in those camping stoves/lanterns - as it is basically a light kerosene.

Brake cleaners don't leave residue - but the solvents are eat plastics. But since you are targetting the MAF wire - might be OK to use, as long as you get the brake cleaner off ASAP - used compressed air to dry it faster. Many of there solvents are Tetrachloroethylene based - but I've seen quite a few now that are no longer chloronated for the health isseus the other stuff can pose.

I just pulled my alternator yesterday, and removed the 14mm bolt.

Only a few drops of oil came out. The filter was stuck inside and I used a needle nose pliers to move it around while gently pulling and it finally came loose.

The screen only had a light coating of brown, but it took several times spraying it with throttle body cleaner before it was clean.

It's nice to know it's clean now. Thanks fishexpo!

Good to hear! Sometimes knowing that a filter is as clean as can be helps a lot. You can also use this as a diagnostic feature down the road. If the VVTi starts to make an excessive amount of noise on the topend of the engine, you can pull that filter back out and see if it is covered with gunk or not.

For those of you who want to buy it online, you can do so via eBay using the following link http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM-FILTER-OIL-CONTROL-15678-21010-/181496387591?hash=item2a42071807&vxp=mtr. It is $10.33 with no shipping costs for a genuine Toyota part.

I luckily was able to unscrew the bolt using a 14mm wrench without moving anything out of the way. However, because you said the filter should come straight out -- not to be removed at an angle -- I will have to remove the alternator. The filter is stuck in.

A little oil came out, but not much.

Thanks for posting this, Fish. After numerous Google searches, two casual searches on two other Toyota forums and talking with many owners, this filter has never come up.

The car is due for an oil change. so I want to get this out of the way first. I just hope I don't damage anything. I'll post with photos tomorrow or Wednesday the results.

Just another reason why I prefer Corolland over any other Toyota or Corolla forum. Much more information here.

Thanks for the link - definitely cheaper than picking that up at the dealership. Good to hear that it helped out - also why I prefer this forum over others. It a great community here, lots of helpful information.

No photos; SD card is cracked and unusable. I did remove the filter, but it was clean other than being the color light brown. No accumulation of anything. Had to be very gentle after removing the alternator.

Changed the oil and installed a genuine Toyota filter.



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