Most of the heat from the braking system dissipates via convention from rotor to air. Caliper generally doesn't heat up that much (compared to hte rotor), unless there was a direct thermal link between the pad and the caliper (some it is by design). On some vintage racers with solid discs all around - most were open wheel apps or had significant cooling space around the rotors. Even with repeated high speed stops, the solid rotors cooled enough to not fade during the race.
Higher performance pads generally take much higher operating temperatures than standard pads - in many cases, the pad shows a strong thermal gradient in the friction material that inhibits heat conduction to the caliper assembly. Your shims and pad backing does the rest. The pad itself will conduct a surprising amount of heat away from the rotors - many ceramic composites use carbon and copper strands to help pull heat away from the rotor and provide faster recovery.
Can't base this decision solely on motorcycle designs - as that is a completely different beast. Motorcycle brakes, being so visible, almost all are drilled, some have company logos or custom work done. Look at a track bike, nearly all are slotted or even solid - very few run drilled rotors on the track. Main rease, bikes weight considerably less than cars - the loss of weight and overall heat capacity is less of an issue on a bike. Plus, front and rear balance can be adjusted on the fly, so overall brake loading will be different for different conditions.
Warping is altogether another issue. Easy to associate warping to overheating, but in many cases, it is actually related to how the the brake friction boundary layers is deposited on the rotor surface. The terminology of "warped" brakes makes this even harder to ignore. Iron doesn't even break a sweat, even at highly elevated temperatures. Todays metallurgy and manufacturing techniques means, high quality rotors - typical street temps are under 700 degrees F, on a track - they could approach 1200 degrees F. Iron's melting temperature is nearly 2800 degrees F. To even consider deformation from heat, you need to heat up the material to around 50% of its melting temperature. Certain alloys of iron do deform at much lower temps, but most need to be over 1000 degrees, before something happens.
Truth of warping, overheated friction materials (i.e., most organic pads) tend to deposit very unevenly on the rotor surface - this is what causes the juddering or shaking in the wheels and chassis that makes up warped rotors. Same for cases where you come off several high speed stops and then anchor the brakes - the pad sitting in one spot will suck the heat from the rotor, causing it to cool unevenly and causing a significant difference in brake transfer layer. You can "warp" any rotor in that manner.
The company StopTech ran a campaign to show that there wasn't any physical warping of the metal discs - by suggesting that owners take an aggressive pad, like Hawk Blues, run them through several hard stops, but not enough to "bed" the pads - in effect, they were just polishing the rotors faces (not like turning rotors, they didn't remove significant material from the rotor). then installed pads of choice, go through a bedding procedure, brakes afterwards ran true.
I believe your case with warped brakes on the Corolla, is more likely due to larger swept area with an uneven brake transfer layer. The drilled and slotted rotors just cleaned the pads more often and had a smaller swept area that reduced the symptoms of warped brakes. If anything - I'd almost bet money that the drilled and slotted rotors ran HOTTER than the plain vented rotors. Ultimately, the choice will be up to you. I know that BMW CCA members that track a Z3 ended up going with plain vented rotors from the later Z3s (1999+). A few 1998 Z3 came with vented rotors, I believe the cutoff manufacturing date was something after 4/98 or so. With as limited material that is on the solid rotor to begin with - going with a drilled option might cause you more headaches down the road. If you are really concerned about the heat buildup - I'd go with a plain vented rotor upgrade (with the appropriate calipers) or run a two piece rotor. The two piece rotors are designed to move radially - prevents the rotor friction surfaces from "coning" out.