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1994 Corolla - Changing Manual Transmission Fluid

By RAV4EVR, March 30, 2009 in Pre-1997 Toyota Corolla and Geo Prizm



As much as I brag about being in love with my cars, I am ashamed to say that I have never changed any of their transmission fluids myself.

I plan to start today. It is a manual transmission.

The car manual does not mention the viscosity RANGE. Internet does not help. I have seen some pics and sounds like the pan does not exist put it has a top/bottom drain plugs that I can get to after removing some plastic cover from underneath which I am told is a piece of cake.

1) I want the highest/best grade with synthetic. What should I use?

2) Do I need a hand pump to pump in fluid and out.

3) What procedure is used to pump stuff in and out? Do I need to flush with something?

4) Anything WISE I need to know? i.e.. Do not drain/open bottom plug first without opening the top one first because if the top one does not open, one is f*****... LOL !

5) Does the car has to be completely level?

6) HAYES manual... should I buy it? Is it helpful? I will drive to AUTOZONE in 30 mins.

The car manual does not mention the viscosity RANGE. Internet does not help. I have seen some pics and sounds like the pan does not exist put it has a top/bottom drain plugs that I can get to after removing some plastic cover from underneath which I am told is a piece of cake.

1) I want the highest/best grade with synthetic. What should I use?

2) Do I need a hand pump to pump in fluid and out.

3) What procedure is used to pump stuff in and out? Do I need to flush with something?

4) Anything WISE I need to know? i.e.. Do not drain/open bottom plug first without opening the top one first because if the top one does not open, one is f*****... LOL !

5) Does the car has to be completely level?

6) HAYES manual... should I buy it? Is it helpful? I will drive to AUTOZONE in 30 mins.

94 Corolla uses API GL-5 75w-90 gear oil. I wouldn't advise putting synthetic or anything fancy in old cars, because they say it may develop leaks.

 

2. All you do is take the oil plug at the bottom of the differential. No need for pumping - it will drain easily.

3. I don't think it's necessary to flush it. Automatic needs flushing.

5. The car has to be completely level for the oil to level itself (excess has to drain out). However, it helps to have the front of the car lifted so that it's easier to pour it in, and also it's more accessible that way. After pouring the oil in, lower the car.

6. Hayes manual is not necessary for this job, though you should have it if you plan to do small repair jobs.

The car manual does not mention the viscosity RANGE. Internet does not help. I have seen some pics and sounds like the pan does not exist put it has a top/bottom drain plugs that I can get to after removing some plastic cover from underneath which I am told is a piece of cake.

1) I want the highest/best grade with synthetic. What should I use?

2) Do I need a hand pump to pump in fluid and out.

3) What procedure is used to pump stuff in and out? Do I need to flush with something?

4) Anything WISE I need to know? i.e.. Do not drain/open bottom plug first without opening the top one first because if the top one does not open, one is f*****... LOL !

5) Does the car has to be completely level?

6) HAYES manual... should I buy it? Is it helpful? I will drive to AUTOZONE in 30 mins.

94 Corolla uses API GL-5 75w-90 gear oil. I wouldn't advise putting synthetic or anything fancy in old cars, because they say it may develop leaks.

 

2. All you do is take the oil plug at the bottom of the differential. No need for pumping - it will drain easily.

3. I don't think it's necessary to flush it. Automatic needs flushing.

5. The car has to be completely level for the oil to level itself (excess has to drain out). However, it helps to have the front of the car lifted so that it's easier to pour it in, and also it's more accessible that way. After pouring the oil in, lower the car.

6. Hayes manual is not necessary for this job, though you should have it if you plan to do small repair jobs.

 

I called the dealer to find out how many quarts I require. They mentioned 3 to 3.5 QTS.

What do you guys think?

Also.. I have bought a 75W90 synthetic blend... cuz they didn't have a regular one.

Is that going to be ok?

Bikeman982

Haynes manual lists capacity as:

Automatic (drain and refill)

Three-speed - 2.6 quarts

Differential - 1.5 quarts

Four-speed -- 3.3 quarts.

The synthetic stuff should be just fine. There is a little battle between using GL4 vs GL5 fluids - especially on the issues of syncro wear and other soft metals inside the transaxle - only time will tell for sure. If you change the fluid on regular intervals and I think that becomes much less of an issue.

Anyways - fluid recommendation in the service manual are API GL-4 or GL-5 that are a SAE 75W-90 or SAE 80W-90 viscosity - for most, 75W-90 is a good all-purpose choice. My personal preference is Redline MT-90 a 75W-90 / GL-4 lube - but they can get pricey and may be hard to find locally for some people.

I'm assuming that the bottle you got came with a short length of rubber tubing or has a long nozzle to help facilitate refilling of the transaxle? Otherwise, it may get pretty messy when you try and refill the trans through the filler hole. Some have been able to use the supplied nozzle and squeeze the bottle in a way to reduce the mess, but I personally have not been entirely successful in that regard - you may do better.

I believe the dealership is right about the capacity - not critical, as any excess will just run out of the fill hole (directly above the drain plug - about midway up on the side of the transaxle). Remove drain plug, drain lube, replace drain plug. Remove fill plug, add oil, fill until oil is within a 1/4" to exactly level with the bottom of the fill hole, replace filler plug. Test drive, check for leaks, verify oil level is within 1/4" or less of the bottom of the fill hole - you should be good to go for 15K miles / 2 years under extreme conditions - about double that mileage for light commuting.

Bikeman982

I attach a hose to a funnel and put the hose into the fill hole.

After putting the drain plug back in, I add fluid until it starts to run out the fill hole.

It is a good idea to expect a spill underneath, so use a pan or absorbant material under the car.

I attach a hose to a funnel and put the hose into the fill hole.After putting the drain plug back in, I add fluid until it starts to run out the fill hole.

 

It is a good idea to expect a spill underneath, so use a pan or absorbant material under the car.

 

I took the bottom cover off (easy)

I spotted the fill and drain plugs (easy)

Tried opening top drain plug (impossible) - WD40 did not help. Warming up and driving around with WD40 for 30 mins did not help.

To open the plug, went and bought the 6pt piece (hexagon bolt turner.. what are those tools called?) instead of the 12pt one that I already had which might have damaged the CORNERS on the fill plug. Tried with the 6pt piece and it SLIPS. The corners were wearing out BAD so now I have to take it to the dealer today to see if they can just take off the plugs without charging me (they know me very well) and hand tighten them so I can change the fluid myself at home this evening.

I am thinking that I have to buy a new plug for the fill hole anyway because the old one's corners are worn out.

HOW THE HELL IS THE DEALER GOING TO TAKE IT OFF?

I will be leaving in 40 minutes. God Help me... What a mess.

I am thinking that I get the dealer to loosen bolts on my other two car's transmissions (00 V6 manual camry) (97 auto land cruiser) before I even attempt to mess up the plugs... What a mess.

I attach a hose to a funnel and put the hose into the fill hole.After putting the drain plug back in, I add fluid until it starts to run out the fill hole.

 

It is a good idea to expect a spill underneath, so use a pan or absorbant material under the car.

 

I took the bottom cover off (easy)

I spotted the fill and drain plugs (easy)

Tried opening top drain plug (impossible) - WD40 did not help. Warming up and driving around with WD40 for 30 mins did not help.

To open the plug, went and bought the 6pt piece (hexagon bolt turner.. what are those tools called?) instead of the 12pt one that I already had which might have damaged the CORNERS on the fill plug. Tried with the 6pt piece and it SLIPS. The corners were wearing out BAD so now I have to take it to the dealer today to see if they can just take off the plugs without charging me (they know me very well) and hand tighten them so I can change the fluid myself at home this evening.

I am thinking that I have to buy a new plug for the fill hole anyway because the old one's corners are worn out.

HOW THE HELL IS THE DEALER GOING TO TAKE IT OFF?

I will be leaving in 40 minutes. God Help me... What a mess.

I am thinking that I get the dealer to loosen bolts on my other two car's transmissions (00 V6 manual camry) (97 auto land cruiser) before I even attempt to mess up the plugs... What a mess.

 

Well they did it.. I must not be educated enough on the tools out there..

They tightened enough so they fluid does not leak out until my fluid change time this evening.

Looking forward to it.

For my lift this evening..

My car may be at about 8 degree from the front.. as I can't get it completely straight. I guess that should be fine.

Did they replaced the old fill plug? Maybe put some anti-seize on the base of the bolt head (not much on the threads) to help the net time around. Yeah, dealership should have no problem with those types of bolts, since an impact gun will get almost anything off.

I nearly did the same with my Matrix - nearly stripped the corners off the belt tensioner nut. Aluminum, so even with a good 6-point socket, it still slipped a little bit (distored the metal on the corners of the bolthead).



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