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By Regular Joe October 31, 2004



Hello All,

I own a 1998 and have noticed on the forum that the '98s and '99s seem to have more problems than any other recent generation. I just want to know what problems you've had.

I'm NOT looking to turn this thread into any of the following.

- A debate on whether this is the owner or Toyota's fault

- A debate on whether OEM parts are better than factory parts

- A discussion of how good Toyotas were before or are after these years

- A discussion of how you do or should drive your car. (Grandmas, Speed-demons...or even "Speed-demon Grandmas" are encouraged to provide input)

I just want to know the basics. Is yours a '98 or '99, what broke, who fixed it, how'd they fix it and how's your car running now? Thanks in advance for your input.

For the record, my car has/had the following problems.

#1 - Suspension squeak when going slowly over speed bumps. Dealer cannot diagnose problem. Problem continues

#2 - Interior light. Sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. Likely a bad connection. Problem sporatic

#3 - Excessive oil consumption. Diagnosed by dealer as bad rings. Repaired under warranty. Problem solved.

#4 - Catastrophic engine failure. Connecting rod snapped and punched two holes in block. Diagnosed as "likely a problem caused during the rebuild of your motor 3000 miles earlier (see #3)". Block replaced by dealer. Problem solved.

#5 - Engine hesitation at idle, especially during stop and go traffic. Multiple dealers cannot diagnose. Might have something to do with MAF sensor, injectors, idle air bypass, etc. Dealers recommend I wait until it gets worse or codes so they have an idea of what it is. Problem continues.

#6 - Starting issue. Sometimes, when the car is left parked for a few days, it won't fire after continued cranking. The only way to get it to go is to lay on the accelerator until it eventually sputters to life smelling like unburnt fuel (Yes, I know that you don't hit the accelerator to start an FI vehicle. This is just for these "special" occasions.) Problem rare, but continuing.

Cheers,

Regular Joe

'99 Corolla, 69,000 miles, zero problems, zero oil consumption.

Guest davect

1999 Corolla LE 90,000 miles

Grinding in front wheel at 20K miles: Replaced tie rod.

CEL on: Replaced charcoal canister

Cigarette lighter died.

Runs like crap,CEL on: Replaced 4 fuel injectors.

Vibration at highway speed: Replaced wheel bearing, balanced tires, alignment. Problem still exists. (third set of tires with same problem)

Banging, clunking noise from oil pan area: Replaced power steering pump and belt tensioner.

CEL light still comes on occasionally for no apparent reason.

I've recently noticed some other unusual noises "under the hood" so I have decided to get rid of the damned thing. Overall I like the car, but I've just been putting way too much time and money into it.

I had the squeak in my 2003 CE. Turned out top be the top mount for the pass side rear strut.

A spray of silicone lube on the rubber killed the squeak.

1999 VE. 85,000+ miles Aside from regular maint. (brakes/tires/oil changes), I have had the following problems:

-Car consumes oil (roughly 1 or 1.5 quarts for every 3,000 mi) Sometimes more, sometimes less. Tends to consume more on longer trips.

-Replaced exhaust donut gasket at around 84,000 mi.

Overall, this is still the most trouble-free vehicle I have owned. I used to drive GM products and all of them needed alternators or some other major part/repair long before 100,000 miles.

I have a 2000, here's my list:

Belt tensioner, had to be replaced after 1 year.

Rattle from drivers door, turned out to be a misaligned front fender.

CEL came on, had to replace charcoal cannister.

Rattle from dash area, this I fixed my self.

THE BIG ONE, had a small oil leak since the car was new, eventually they found that the head gasket had to be replaced, machined head and reAssembled.

All repairs were covered by warranty, I still really like the car but was surprised during the first three years of ownership to have problems like this. Seems like there were a lot of "bugs" to work out of it.

Hello All,

Thanks all for you input.

BobLevine, thanks for you tip on the suspension squeak.

Cheers,

Regular Joe

Bought car new found front hood did not close correctly and had to have it realigned also found moisture on driver side door jam. Both problems taken car of by dealer.

At 30k had to replace starter now at 65k starter giving me similar problems. Again at 30k had to have brake job done on front brakes. Cost came out of my pocket for brakes and starter.

At 50k started losing oil. Dealer found a leak around the idler tension covered under warantee. Still lost oil and had to have engine rebuilt again covered under warantee. Have not lost oil since. Again at 50k starater was sticking and contined to engage after car had started. This problem seemed to have taken care of itself as after two incidents I have not had the problem again. Another on again off again problem I had was that as I was driving I lost power.This happened on two ocAssions. The last two problems have not surfaced in the last 10k miles and I am hoping they are gone. With both these problems the dealer was unable to figure them out. We looked into the lemon law but have been told that what you would get in return is minimal so I decided to keep the car and keep my fingers crossed.

Will seriously consider buying another rolla. If you research this site I have posted questions regarding these problems.

2000 corolla-the only problem I have experienced is the oil consumption. It started suddenly(about half quart/1500 miles). Things got worse over a few months, especially during the summer and Toyota eventually ended up replacing the piston rings under warranty. Not sure why it happened, I guess a few others have also had this problem. Toyota manual says that upto 1 quart/1200 miles is normal, they should consider raising this to 1 quart/2000 miles.

sv11

Guest JanePEI

Hi,

I have a 1999 Corolla VE. I have owned it for a year and a half (bought used) and it has 135,000km on it. This is my first car an have not had the best of luck. I have had the following problems (besides the normal - replacing brake pads, etc)

- Check engine light came on the day after I bought it - had it checked - apparently due to aa false error because when they turn it off it comes right back on.

- Had a gasket in the emmision system replaced (was the sourse of a major smell of gas)

- Spark plugs have been replaced 4 times - they burnt out and caused the engine to mis-fire.

- Had a strut replaced.

- Had a wheel bearing and hub assembly replaced.

- Had to have the air conditioner compressor disconnected because it had seases and was causing the engine to rev and then stall.

- I am now hearing a clunking sound and think that the source is the sway bar bushings - the dealer said they were loose when I had my last inspection done.

Also, I have not had the timing belt replaced. The car had 94,000km on it when I bought it and I don't think the previous owner had it replaced. After reading these fourms, I am definitly going to have it checked out.

Jane

Hi,I have a 1999 Corolla VE. I have owned it for a year and a half (bought used) and it has 135,000km on it. This is my first car an have not had the best of luck. I have had the following problems (besides the normal - replacing brake pads, etc)

 

- Check engine light came on the day after I bought it - had it checked - apparently due to aa false error because when they turn it off it comes right back on.

- Had a gasket in the emmision system replaced (was the sourse of a major smell of gas)

- Spark plugs have been replaced 4 times - they burnt out and caused the engine to mis-fire.

- Had a strut replaced.

- Had a wheel bearing and hub assembly replaced.

- Had to have the air conditioner compressor disconnected because it had seases and was causing the engine to rev and then stall.

- I am now hearing a clunking sound and think that the source is the sway bar bushings - the dealer said they were loose when I had my last inspection done.

Also, I have not had the timing belt replaced. The car had 94,000km on it when I bought it and I don't think the previous owner had it replaced. After reading these fourms, I am definitly going to have it checked out.

Jane

1999 corolla does not have a timing belt, it uses timing a chain. Service free, but needs to be check ~90K miles

 

 

I will note that in Consumers Reports magazine, the '98 - '00 model years did show slightly lower results in their surveys for the "engine" category than in '97 or '01-'03. However, This is not suprising given that it was a significant engine redesign. The results were still above average.

It's well known in marketing and sales, that disatisfied customers will go out of their way to find information and tell others that they are unhappy. A person that has no problems with his Corolla and only uses it for transportation does not go to websites seeking advice.

I suspect that the failure rates on engines related components is much highre than on previous and later generations for this models. But most data seems to show that it's still well above industry standard.

I do think that Honda nd Toyota wuality is slipping, but I think it still reamins ahead of the remiander of the industry. As modern vehicles becomes more and more advanced, it's inevitible that reliability will suffer because the opportunity for fialure has increased.

Guest Spartan031

I have a 98 Corolla CE with about 35,000 miles on it.

I have the oil problem too; I have to put in a quart every 1000 miles or so. Mechanically, that's really about it. My door lock sticks and my e-brake doesn't really work at all, but I bought the car with those problems. Also, a mechanic put brakes on last February and they still squeak. I mentioned it to him last April or May and he gave me some spiel about how new brakes on foreign cars always squeak. Dunno if that's bull, but anyway, that's all that's wrong with my car.

1998 LE, my wife purchased new in June '98, has encountered the following:

Starter switch malfunction after two years, paid out-of-pocket for the fix.

Starter solenoid began to fail after 4.5 years, would either fail to engage or disengage after starting. Replaced with a used one from salvage yard with no problems since.

Uses about 1/2 qt. of oil between changes, evidence of small leak present, possibly from valve cover gasket. Considered normal for a car with over 120K miles so I don't worry about it.

Power door lock actuator sticking on driver's side, began this year - door lock on rear passenger's door won't pop up or down at all. I plan on repairing it as soon as I can locate a replacement.

Major collision damage twice, repairs claimed on insurance. Not worried about the value decline since it's paid for.

Replaced front struts, brakes, and spark plugs twice and cables once. New serpentine belt almost two years ago. Oil every 3K miles without fail. All recommended fluid changes done regularly as needed.

Aside from the starter problems earlier her car has been very dependable. Given the miles and years I think it has an excellent track record and would buy another without question.

99 Prizm with 66,666 miles on it (I'm serious)

* Clutch went at 40k, replaced by dealer (BIG mistake, see folowing)

* Leaky output shaft seal, which was destroyed by the dealer when the tech dropped the trans out of the car. I replaced both for good measure.

* Torn CV boot, once again, dealer's fault. Replaced the entire halfshaft myself while changing the oil seals.

* Replaced exhaust dounut at 66k after ignoring it for 20+k miles. Turns out the dealer forgot to put it back when he unhooked the exhaust for God knows what reason. On a side note, the design of that whole mating surface is FUBAR.

Those have been resolved, and in general, the car runs decently now. Here's what is still bugging me.

* Tempermental CEL, codes read in the evap system (more specifically, the evap purge valves). I've replaced the one up front, under the hood, but that didn't do a darn thing. My Haynes manual says something about an evap valve in the rear, but I can't seem to find that stuff on any parts sites... Has anyone else had a similar probelm with their '99? The CEL will usually come on after I let the car idle for a long time (5+ minutes, maybe longer), then disappear randomly after that (but its on for no fewer than two weeks).

Guest Gladiola

I have a '99 Corolla CE. Maybe living in Houston summer heat exacerbates the wear and tear, but problems/repairs I have had are:

1 - inner tie rods replaced in 2002 due to uneven tire tread, wheel allignment, new tires

2 - battery replaced 2002

3 - starter replaced 2003

4 - misfiring, so spark plugs and wires replaced 2003

5 - door handle broke off, replaced, 2004

6 - outer tie rods replaced 2004

7 - battery replaced 2004

6 - driver's side power window motor replaced, 2005

7 - serpentine belt replaced 2005

8 - To be done: replace A/C condenser O-ring (leaking)

Other than that, normal scheduled maintenance. So much for maintenance-free Corolla legends; if I could go back to 1/99, I'd buy a Honda.

Guest Gladiola

Forgot to mention, my '99 Corolla CE only has 47,900 miles on it.

01 'Rolla LE 94,000 miles

@ 25 K I broke the cigarette lighter with a cell phone charger--dealer fixed it under warranty

@ 65 k valve gasket leaking (oil on one spark plug) probably a defect. I paid a Toy dealer to fix it.

Otherwise routine maintenance items plus serpentine belt, brakes.

Also, my stock Michelin MX4 tires lasted 58k miles--unbelieveable!

This is by far the best, most reliable, efficient car I have ever owned.

There is no doubt that my next car will have a "T" on the grille or possibly an "H" (no, not Hyundia!)

I can understand the aggrevation some posters are having with problems but it could be worse. You could have a turd-box Big 3 vehicle and you would get to know your dealer and tow truck company on a first-name basis. I made that mistake once.

2000 CE - 95K miles.

1. Replaced OE struts at 35k, because for some reason all Japanese OE struts are garbage. (Oddly, replacement Japanese struts like Tokicos are wonderful.) Put Monroe lifetime warranty specials in it, which are about due to be replaced - one of the rears is weeping.

2. Replaced spark plugs at 50K, just because. Replaced serpentine belt at the same time, same reason. Flushed and filled trans at the same time, will be due for all in the next few weeks when the car hits 100K. Cars don't die from being over-maintained.

3. OE Toyota brake pads wear like iron and fit right- the first set lasted 65K of stop and go driving. Unfortunately, they also work horrifically (no modulation of the pedal at threshold braking, so sto[pping in the wet is sometimes entertaining, so the current set is getting replaced with a decent set of pads, either a street grade Performance Friction or Hawk compound, waaaay before this set of Toyota parts wears out.

4. OE battery made it about 4.5 years and died with no warning. Fortunately it chose to do so in the driveway. Even when the car finally breaks something it does it well!

5. Oil and filter changes (Wix and Mobil 1) every 4K. No oil consumption issues.

6. I had the evap system code, troubleshot the system, found this website, and replaced the cannister, which seems to be a semi-common problem for the car.

Somebody earlier mentioned not being able to find the evap valve on the rear of the car - it is mounted on the charcoal cannister assembly, which is mounted above the rear subframe. It's one of those "you can look at it but can't actually reach it" sort of deals. Took about an hour to replace, most of which was spent double-checking myself when I disconnected and reconnected the elevety seven vacuum hoses connected to it.

7. I have no idea why the right rear tire attracts screws, but I am about to replace tires for third time in two years for the same problem! Not the car's fault. I run some BFG's that were highly recommended on Tire Rack, and if I could stop shredding them with road debris, would probably get 70K plus out of.

'98 Corolla VE (72k as of Feb '05)

1) Either or both a loose "motor mount" and " bearing tension" problem caused a soft rattling noise while engine was on (Jan '04 ~50k). A local mechanic diagnosed and repaired it. The "bearing tension" problem was fixed by replacing a part. I didn't pay attention to how they fixed the loose motor mount. The soft rattling noise is gone now.

2) Slow transmission fluid leak discovered by the local mechanic (~Jan '03). The mechanic said the leak was slow enough not to require repair but only regular monitoring.

3) Interior light seems to come on erratically if I set it to one of the on modes.

4) Steering wheel squeaks in cold temperatures (< 40 degrees F).

5) After ~50k, the shifter in automatic models (for D,R,N,2, etc...) became harder to move, especially in colder temperatures.

6) Suspension creaks when driving over large, uneven parts of the road (like speed bumps)

7) Left side mirror does not hold its position and gradually turns east, stopping in a position that's just acceptable for me to see cars in the left lane.

8) Engine has a soft sputtering sound over 55 mph but still runs fine. Noise went away after I had the 60,000-mile maintenance service at ~72k, but I'm still curious as to what caused it.

9) When locked, a rattling noise comes from the front passenger and driver manual door locks at high speeds. This occurs rarely, but is annoying when it occurs.

Problems 2-9 were not annoying enough to be repaired. I'm pleasantly surprised by the reliability of this car; at 72k, it still runs like new.

I have a '98 with 126,000 miles that I bought about year ago. I have had they following problems:

1. Starter motor was replaced last July, and the new one makes the "cold weather starting noise" that has been discussed in another thread.

2. Last summer the car had rough idle when starting, the fuel regulator valve was replaced and I have not had the problem since.

3. Suspension is creaky, especially in cold weahter. All four struts were replaced when I bought the car, and as long as nothing breaks the noise doesn't bother me.

No other problems, I keep up with all the scheduled maintainence and change the oil often. Overall, a good car although the first problem is quite a pain.

Guest Silver_Nitrate

Guest Silver_Nitrate

Question: I just had my state inspection done at the dealership, they said my left wheel bearing was loose and needs to be replaced. I have a 99 corolla and we purchased a 5 year extended warranty. The car only have 38000 miles. Is that covered under toyota warranty?

Should state if that is covered or excluded under the extended warranty declarations. I assume it should be covered - since I haven't seen a general plan exclude those before.



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