Recent Bad Luck - Advice On Repairs For Inspection - Corolland: the Toyota Corolla Forums

Hello Everyone,

I am rather new to Corolland, but I have had some bad luck recently with my Corolla, and would really appreciate any advice.

I have a 2000 VE Corolla with 130,000 miles. I just started graduate school in a state that has a required emissions inspection. When moving to college however, my check engine light came on. I took the car to the local Toyota dealer where they found the code P0171, and cleaned the MAF. About a week later however (and after refilling the gas take), the check engine light came on again so I took it back to the dealer. This time they found the codes P0440, P0441 and P0446. They told me that they checked the EVAP system with a smoke tester and found no leaks and therefore I needed a new EVAP Canister at a cost (with installation) of $430. So I did this repair too, but low and behold it has been another week and after refilling the gas the check engine light is on again! So I took it back to the dealer and the code that is coming on is the P0441 again, which they claim is the CK Purge Valve and it is going to cost $155 to get a new one installed.

Does this seem reasonable? I am a little confused why the dealer didn't diagnose all these problems the first time. In addition to having to pay another diagnostic fee every time I take the car back, I worry that I am paying for repairs that might not be the source of the problem. Furthermore after they fix the CK purge Valve, who is to say that the check engine light will not just come on again. I mean the car runs fine, has good pickup, gas mileage, and idles smoothly.

So my dilemma is this, since I have gone this far with the dealer already (basically spent all my savings), should I just go ahead and get this fixed too, or should I just leave it (I can keep my car registered at my home town and then I don't have to worry about passing the inspection). Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you for taking the time to read this.

you shouldnt be responsible for a diagnostic charge every time, thats a little shady.

however from your description, have you made sure the cap is tightening completely and that the cap is indeed sealing?

Bikeman982

Unfortunately the CEL fault codes only indicate which system is faulty.

They do not pinpoint the actual faulty item(s)/area that may be bad/dirty.

The best way to fix the problem is to get a good manual and follow the troubleshooting tree.

Replace/repair the easiest and cheapest items first.

If the codes persists, then move to the more difficult and costly items.

Fortunately for me I have access to a local junkyard where I can change out all the parts at a fairly low cost.

Going to a third party (such as a mechanic or dealer), you are getting charged for their time as well as their labor.

It might be best (in your case) to keep your car registered in your home town until you can fix the emission problem.

In some states (like DC where I live...ok not a state) you don't actually need to get the car repaired to pass inspection. In DC you just need to show that you paid $750 to get the emissions repaired and they will grant you a 2 year waiver.

Worth looking into

In some states (like DC where I live...ok not a state) you don't actually need to get the car repaired to pass inspection. In DC you just need to show that you paid $750 to get the emissions repaired and they will grant you a 2 year waiver.
Worth looking into

About $200 to bypass inspection here in NC. Exemption also if parts needed are no longer available.

Or go to the local Autozone type of car parts place, have them erase the codes, get it inspected and you have bought some time to get it fixed?...

just a thought.

good luck

tdk.

Thank you everyone for your advice on the situation. It has really been helpful.

I was kind of worried that maybe the dealer was taking advantage of me, but it sounds like I am just having some bad luck. So I think I will just keep my car registered where I don't need to do the inspection, and then after saving up some money I will try to replace the purge valve myself (it doesn't sound like it will hurt anything to wait a bit to get it replaced).

Speaking of replacing the part though, on my way home from school today, the check engine light went off all on its own. I didn't know it would do that. So we will see if it comes on again soon.

Thanks again for all your help to a new car owner (and new Corolla owner).

PS. I tried replacing the gas cap, with a new one from Toyota, and it sounds like it is making a good seal with the tank when I try to open it. Thanks for that hint though!

Bikeman982

Thank you everyone for your advice on the situation. It has really been helpful.
I was kind of worried that maybe the dealer was taking advantage of me, but it sounds like I am just having some bad luck. So I think I will just keep my car registered where I don't need to do the inspection, and then after saving up some money I will try to replace the purge valve myself (it doesn't sound like it will hurt anything to wait a bit to get it replaced).
Speaking of replacing the part though, on my way home from school today, the check engine light went off all on its own. I didn't know it would do that. So we will see if it comes on again soon.
Thanks again for all your help to a new car owner (and new Corolla owner).
PS. I tried replacing the gas cap, with a new one from Toyota, and it sounds like it is making a good seal with the tank when I try to open it. Thanks for that hint though!

Hopefully the gas cap was the cause of your problem and you have fixed it by replacing the cap.

quick, while the light is off go and get tested default_laugh

Could be the VSV or the charcoal canister. Check all vacuum hoses on air filter box for leaks/cracks/loose hose. Of course look at the gas cap gasket and just replace the entire cap to rule it out. Most of the time those 3 codes means a loose/bad gas cap or a bad charcoal canister. After that, I would check the VSV on the charocal canister. If that is not stuck, I would get the canister. Does this code initially come on when you had under a 1/4 tank of gas left?

Bikeman982

A cheaper way is to just change the gas cap gasket (if the seal is the problem), rather than the whole gas cap.

Since you already changed it - now would be a good time for the inspection - while the CEL is off.