Corollas2019-23ToyotasTech

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By datsa, August 1, 2008



Well, when it rains it pours.

Wheel cylinder: I noticed a leak from the right rear tire this morning: Uh Oh, clear liquid, no smell = brake fluid. I pulled off the tire to find a leaky wheel cylinder. Apparently it had been slowly leaking for some weeks, I did notice a slightly spongier brake pedal. The brake fluid is all over the inside, causing the painted finish on the backing plate and some metal flanges to come off. So I need to replace the wheel cylinder and bleed the entire system. The left rear wheel shows no weeping and the inside of the wheel well is dry.

The last time I had the left rear wheel cylinder fixed was about 25K miles ago, but I am not sure about the right one. I thought both were done at the same time.

Brake shoes: Wear on all brake shoes down to about 3 mm, so time for a change any way. The brake shoes is probably not original factory stuff.

Shock absorber: I had intended on replacing the rear shocks because they kept failing the bounce test, bouncing 2.5 times when I pushed down on the rear of the car. Also the rubber grommets are cracked. They are the original shocks, KYB, stamped with the Toyota part #.

So, I plan to replace at least one rear wheel cylinder, all four brake shoes, and both rear shocks. Question: if I want to do it myself, should I buy aftermarket or go get genuine

Toyota stuff or a mixture of these? Are genuine Toyota stuff that much better; the price differential is very high. But I am not sure about the quality. Is it really, you get what you pay for?

Depends on where you live - doesn't hurt to contact the dealership to get a price quote. A popular option is to stick with OEM parts, but purchase from an online retailer. Some of them are real, physical Toyota dealerships that do a considerable amount of business online. Generally get 30%+ off of MSRP prices in many cases. Do you really get what you pay for? Most cases you do - but not always, in some cases - OEM and aftermarket are identical parts (same part number) - but you pay more for dealer marks ups - pays to show around.

As for friction materials - OEM or aftermarket would be fine, as long as you stick with better name brands. I'm running aftermarket front pads with no issues, though I did stick with OEM rear shoes, as they were actually cheaper than the aftermarket ones I was pricing (I paid ~ $35 for a set of shoes).

Struts - aftermarket, again, would be fine here. As you saw, Toyota uses a KYB strut for OEM. The KYB GR-2 are the ideal replacements - little firmer, more damping than the original, but most cannot tell the difference. You can get the original KYB "black" finish struts if you prefer - in this case, aftermarket sources tend to be considerable less costly than dealers, even though the parts # are identical. I believe last time I checked - KYB GR-2 upgrades were about $75 a piece, OEM style KYB struts were around $59 each - dealership wanted about $150 each for the OEM ones.

Wheel cylinders and major brake hardware, I don't even mess around with - always go OEM. You can save a little bit by going with reman or rebuilt components, but given past experiences with brakes - OEM is the way to go. Alternative is NAPA autoparts - their parts fitment is very goof, but many times - they are actually more expensive than dealerships. But if you need a correctly fitting part in a hurry, NAPA is great place to go.

Depends on where you live - doesn't hurt to contact the dealership to get a price quote. A popular option is to stick with OEM parts, but purchase from an online retailer. Some of them are real, physical Toyota dealerships that do a considerable amount of business online. Generally get 30%+ off of MSRP prices in many cases. Do you really get what you pay for? Most cases you do - but not always, in some cases - OEM and aftermarket are identical parts (same part number) - but you pay more for dealer marks ups - pays to show around.

As for friction materials - OEM or aftermarket would be fine, as long as you stick with better name brands. I'm running aftermarket front pads with no issues, though I did stick with OEM rear shoes, as they were actually cheaper than the aftermarket ones I was pricing (I paid ~ $35 for a set of shoes).

Struts - aftermarket, again, would be fine here. As you saw, Toyota uses a KYB strut for OEM. The KYB GR-2 are the ideal replacements - little firmer, more damping than the original, but most cannot tell the difference. You can get the original KYB "black" finish struts if you prefer - in this case, aftermarket sources tend to be considerable less costly than dealers, even though the parts # are identical. I believe last time I checked - KYB GR-2 upgrades were about $75 a piece, OEM style KYB struts were around $59 each - dealership wanted about $150 each for the OEM ones.

Wheel cylinders and major brake hardware, I don't even mess around with - always go OEM. You can save a little bit by going with reman or rebuilt components, but given past experiences with brakes - OEM is the way to go. Alternative is NAPA autoparts - their parts fitment is very goof, but many times - they are actually more expensive than dealerships. But if you need a correctly fitting part in a hurry, NAPA is great place to go.

 

My son and I had terrible squealing with high quality Quiet Stop disk pads on our 03 Corollas.

Mechanic put on OEM from dealer solving problem.

He said he had same problem with police version Fords and some Hondas.

Some rotors and pads don't seem to always work well together. Perhaps new aftermarket rotors would have mated better with aftermarket pads. The rotors were good so mechanic only resurfaced them.

The GR-2s are a great shock. I have them on a turbo car and they are nicer then the stockers, but you keep all your ride quality. They are 100% streetable.

A lot of guys run GR-2 with mild street springs for a great upgrade. For the guys who want sport, but don't race enough on the weekends to give up DD comfort.

The GR-2s are a great shock. I have them on a turbo car and they are nicer then the stockers, but you keep all your ride quality. They are 100% streetable.

A lot of guys run GR-2 with mild street springs for a great upgrade. For the guys who want sport, but don't race enough on the weekends to give up DD comfort.

What do you consider mild street springs?

Just as an FYI, I am just about to buy some new shocks for my Corolla. The least expensive (while being reputable) online dealer I can find is ajusa.com. Their GR-2's are about $72 a piece (for gen 7/8) with free shipping if you spend at least $100.

Just as an FYI, I am just about to buy some new shocks for my Corolla. The least expensive (while being reputable) online dealer I can find is ajusa.com. Their GR-2's are about $72 a piece (for gen 7/8) with free shipping if you spend at least $100.
Best prices I've ever seen. Wish I could jump on that ... later hopefully. Thanks for the tip.

 

 

Just as an FYI, I am just about to buy some new shocks for my Corolla. The least expensive (while being reputable) online dealer I can find is ajusa.com. Their GR-2's are about $72 a piece (for gen 7/8) with free shipping if you spend at least $100.

I'm looking at getting the Tokico HP struts from the same place.

hmmm...

brakes:

might consider checking the tolerance on the drum while you are at it.

also good idea to check the fronts.

i replaced my celica's rear brake cylinder & shoes with ones from autozone. been over 5yrs and i have been told its still working (by the current owner).

shocks

seems to be covered already.

good luck

tdk.

hmmm... brakes:

 

might consider checking the tolerance on the drum while you are at it.

Yes, good idea: I measured with caliper at 200.8 mm (inside of drum is stamped words "max tolerance 201 mm).

 

also good idea to check the fronts.
Fronts have 5 mm each, (out of minimum of 1.00 mm, max 10.00 mm.)

 

Rotors are down to 17.25 - 17.49 mm (minimum 17.00 mm, max 18.00 mm): I may replace these anyway.

haha, good thing you checked.

i have found that generally (not always), when the cylinder fails, its time to change the drum too.

hmmm... 50%. dep on how you drive, i am sure you still have some good life left in the fronts.

but with something as imporant as brakes, always better to change them sooner than later. maybe after your next paycheck... or next spring?...

good luck

tdk.

The GR-2s are a great shock. I have them on a turbo car and they are nicer then the stockers, but you keep all your ride quality. They are 100% streetable.
I wonder how the ride compares to Monroe Gasmatic, Monroe-matics, and Monroe Sensa-tracs.

 

Because I often chauffeur people and their luggage around, I wonder if I should get stiffer shocks for the rear.

What are the best shocks to get to handle pot holes and rough roads and dirt roads?

Bikeman982

I was at the local junkyard today and ran into someone who had a 7th generation Corolla.

Unfortunately he had crashed the front end.

He commented that the Corolla seemed to take a very long time (and distance) to stop (from70 MPH).

That is the third car that I have heard of with front end collision.

Do Corollas have bad rear brakes ??(he said front wheels locked up, but back did not stop car well).



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