Corollas2019-23ToyotasTech

Search Corolland!

8th Gen Oil Consumption

by Braddale, June 24, 2008

See every reply in these pages:



Has anyone experienced excessive oil consumption on any 98 to 02's?

I have a 2000 with over 100,000 miles on it and have never had to add any oil between changes. Was browsing another Toyota site and they are saying there was a problem with some 2000 to 2001's with oil consumption (undersized pistons) on a very small amount of the cars produced.

The Chevy Prizm though seemed to have a higher incident of the consumption issue.

Thanks for any information.

Seemed to be quite a few 1998-2000 owners with excessive oil consumption. A few 2001-2002 as well - even spilling over to some of the early 9th gen Corolla/Matrix. Some have it, some do not.

I'm one of the luckier ones - both of my daily drivers get extended drain schedules with synthetic and neither one drinks a drop of oil (~150K on the 2002 Corolla, ~90K on the 2003 Matrix). The problems is a mixed bag - some have damaged cylinder bores + stuck piston rings. Other just had stuck rings, and/or leaking valve seals.

There are also quite a few EVAP related issues on the 8th gen Corollas - some from topping off the tank, others just a picky ECM and stuck VSV valves or some other mystery valve/vent.

I have a 2000 Corolla as well and I don't have any problems with excessive oil comsumption, yet. Although I only have 40,000 miles on mine, as of right now!

Just like Fish said, there seems to be an issue with the 1zzfe engines and oil usage, although it seems that the problem is not consistent. My personal theory is that it may involve the fact that the 8th generation corollas have an aluminum block engine and the older 7th generation Corollas are cast iron. But, then again, that might have absolutely nothing to do with it all. It's just reminds me of the Chevy Vega our family had many years ago! When we sold it in the 1980's with only 50,000 original miles on it, it was using more oil than gasoline!!!!

Since I have both an example of BOTH 7th and 8th gen engines, I can say that the 1zzfe engines are much more peppier than the 7th gen "A" engines, but, the 7th gen engines run smoother and quieter.........

Just my 2 cents worth!!!

Hope it helps a little!!!

timkedz

How interesting, I was checking the forum just now about this same problem. I have a 2001 CE with 125,000 miles. For years, it would be 1/2 quart low when I did my oil changes. Now, out of nowhere, I'm going through a quart every 1,000 miles! I even tried to thicken up the oil with 10w40 and still no luck.

I'm thinking of trying a possible fix, and please anyone correct me if I'm thinking wrong about this...

It's my wife's car. When she starts the car, there's no smoke. I've followed her and under hard acceleration there's no smoke. There isn't a puddle of oil under the car either. I'm thinking it's a bad PCV valve? Can anyone agree with this, or am I way off base? If the valve is clogged open, oil vapors from the crankcase could be easily passing into the combustion chamber and I'm burning the oil that way. Not enough to see, but enough to reduce my oil levels.

There is one additional symptom... The way I found out about this oil consumption thing was a clacking noise while driving one day. I pulled over to see that it was 2 quarts low! I immediately filled it and it quieted down, but I can still hear it under heavy acceleration. Almost like a valve tap or something. Could this be an indication?

Thanks, hopefully this will give some insight to my problem as well as the original poster.

Mike

Not sure if the PCV valve is the culprit, but it can't hurt to be checked out - if it is gummed up - you might notice your throttle body getting dirty very quickly. Also, it is hard to see a car burn oil from the exhaust - I've seen other cars burn a quart every 500 miles with no visible smoke from the exhaust tip.

As for engine noise - the 1ZZ-FE is known to be a noisy engine - most from the use of the timing chain vs the belt from the previous generation. Sometimes running a synthetic or synthetic blend can help with oil consumption. Has a much higher heat threshold and is not as likely to burn off/evaporation like convention motor oil and even some brands of synthetic.

Could try an get a compression test done to see if the oil if pulled past the rings or the valve seals. Some have used Valvoline Maxlife synthetic blends with very good results. Other products like Rislone and Lucas are also pretty popular. AutoRx is also very popular for the "stuck" piston ring issues on some engines - helps dissolve the carbon deposits and frees the rings.

Some people blame break-in techniques or maintenance - though I'm not 100% convinced, newer engine design with very ambitious goals will only result in some problems getting through. On my 2002 Corolla (new) - I ran it normally, varying the RPMs for the first 500 miles, then proceded to drive normally for the next 4500. First oil change at 5K on conventional oil - then only synthetic afterwards. The Matrix was used, and very heavily abused. I'll bet that the car had no oil changes since it was bought as a leased vehicle (still had the factory filter 90915-10004 + was nearly impossible remove). Ran a couple of 0w30 synthetic "flush" runs (3K drain and a 5K drain) - then stuck to my usual 7500 - 10000 mile OCI. Both cars turned out fine.

I'm burning oil. Roughly 1 quart every 1000 miles. I have a 1998 Toyota Corolla with 209,500 miles. I currently drive 150 miles per day for the summer. Anyhow, I am currently running 10w30 oil.

I change my own spark plugs and one of my spark plugs is dripping, drenched with brown oil as I am pulling cylinder number 2. I wonder if I'm even running on all 4 cylinders?!

My question is, will sea foam break up or loosen any stuck oil rings? Will the results be similar to that of autorx?

I'm burning oil. Roughly 1 quart every 1000 miles. I have a 1998 Toyota Corolla with 209,500 miles. I currently drive 150 miles per day for the summer. Anyhow, I am currently running 10w30 oil.

I change my own spark plugs and one of my spark plugs is dripping, drenched with brown oil as I am pulling cylinder number 2. I wonder if I'm even running on all 4 cylinders?!

My question is, will sea foam break up or loosen any stuck oil rings? Will the results be similar to that of autorx?

sparking end is soaked? run a compression test.

 

 

My '01 has been burning ~1 qt every 700 miles for about the last 50,000 miles / 3 years.

The only possible side effect was that I recently had the catalytic converter replaced. The light was on for quite awhile and it needed to pass inspection. I still get 32 mpg so I figured it was worth it.

I've tried putting a lot of additives into the crankcase but none of them stopped the oil from going away.

I see no smoke on start up or when driving, but the wall of the garage where I park has seveal black spots on it that line up with the tail pipe.

Please post any diagnostic results you get. In all likelyhood they will come to the conclusion that its either the "oil control rings" or the "valve stem seals". Either way its an expensive fix and they'll tell you it would be better to get the engine replaced.

Might as well get use to the oil usage. Keep a case in the trunk. Buy it when its on sale. Like the otter I have a 98 with 150K miles and it uses a quart every 700 miles or so. I've tried all sorts of different oils including different weights and synthetics. Also tried seafoam. Nothing made much difference. I never tried the AutoRX. Some say that helps, but from what I've seen on this forum it only gains a couple more hundred miles beteen quarts, not really worth it to me. I buy cheap oil and put a quart in about every other fillup. I average from 31 - 35 mpg so I can live with the oil usage.

I don't think it is the valve seals. My wife has a 2000 Rav4 that smokes like a freight train when you first crank it up, but is only about a half quart low at oil change time, 5000 miles. My car doesn't smoke at all when you crank it up but uses a quart every 700 miles. I'm sure the Rav4 is a valve seal issue and the Corolla is rings. Don't know if they are stuck rings, worn rings or rings that have lost their temper but I do think it is the rings. Just my take.

I only burned half my oil after running through 1/3 can of seafoam each, twice. Never burned oil before, and never burned oil after.

I only burned half my oil after running through 1/3 can of seafoam each, twice. Never burned oil before, and never burned oil after.

 

I'm a little confused. You say they never burned oil before. I assume they did burn oil before you added the seafoam. That being the case, where did you add it, to the crankcase?

Into the brake booster hose. It didn't burn oil. After I put in the Seafoam and when all the fun is over, I'm down to halfway on the dipstick. I changed the oil last week and then checked, it still isn't burning oil. default_biggrin I won't bother putting it into the crankcase, but some of it can go into the gas tank.

I have a 2000 Corolla CE with 196,000 miles that I bought new off the lot. My oil consumption has been high since about 80,000 miles. I'm now at the fill with oil and check the gas stage. I am getting about 400 miles per quart. Still runs like a top though and plan on keeping it and feeding its oil habit. I'm getting 32+ mpg in mostly highway miles.

I've done all oil changes except the first one. I ran good quality oils, mostly synthetic until I started having to add 2 plus quarts every OCI.

I now look for sales, and buy three 1 gallon jugs when doing an oil change. One for the oil change and two for keeping it filled for the next two months.

Other than brakes, tires, oil, and fluids; I've only replaced the plugs, cat convertor, and rear O2. I'm running the original water pump, coolant hoses, etc.

Its beginning to leak a little oil around the crank pulley a bit, but most of its consumption is out the tail pipe.

What I learned here, mostly, is that trying to fix this isn't really cost-effective.

jim

I saw someone on toyotanation say that their corolla manual ('98 if I remember right) states that its normal to burn up to one quart every 1k miles. My 01 manual states no such thing although I do burn a quart every 5k miles. If I dont add any oil between oil changes then the oil level will be slightly below the halfway point between the full and low marks on the dipstick.

I checked in my Owner's Manual as well - nothing mentioned on oil consumption, but I could have missed it. I know there is a TSB on oil consumption, and in that - it does state that a quart consumed in --- miles is acceptable - varies from model to model. In my book, anything more than a quart every couple of thousand miles is too much - even 1 quart per 1000 miles is a lot of oil. Would also depend on the owner - some cover less than 10K miles a year - some like me, might cover between 25K-35K a year easily.

I put a 1/3 can of Seafoam in through the PCV hose and I think it is burning more oil now than it was before. What could that mean?

That sounds like you loosen something up in there - the deposits that were in the combustion chamber and valves were keeping the oil consumption down, now that it is clean - the oil is flowing more readily into those areas. Depending on how much consumption there is now - you might want to do a compression test and leakdown test - that will tell you if you have a ring issue or valve seal. Depending on which, will dictate which direction to go.

Do you think a lot of these oil consumption issues boil down to lack of maintenance and driving habits.

I remember reading somewhere that the Corolla engine is a very good motor but it does not respond well to lack of maintenance and driver abuse ( I guess that would apply to all engines). Meaning that it will keep running for a long time but will develop other issues.

They say that on some of the 2000's and up Toyota went to a smaller piston diameter and used oversized rings, could anyone confirm this and if its true I would love to know what the size comparison is.

Braddale:

I don't think that poor maintenance explains my or everyone's oil consumption issues. I used good quality conventional oils for the first 20,000 or so miles with 3-4000 OCI. I then switched to mobile 1 oil with 3-5000 OCI.

My driving was about as ideal as could be for an engine. 1-2 miles of residential, then 30 or so of highway. Both ways on my commute. And the occasional vacation drive of a day or so.

One thing I have noticed though with this generation corolla. People with an unknown or poor service history see increased oil consumption sooner than I did. I've seen several posts here and on other toyota sites that start with something similar to: "I just bought a used 2000 corolla with 60 0r 70 thousand miles and its burning oil like crazy."

My corolla didn't really start burning it bad until after 90 to 100,000 miles. Before then, I would burn some, but not more than a quart or so per oil change. Now I buy three gallons per oil change. One to put in the car, and another two for replentishment. And I still need more.

jim

How do I know if my valve gasket is bad? 1 or 2 of my spark plugs are pretty much drenched in oil. If drenched in oil, will my spark plugs even spark?

How do I know if my valve gasket is bad? 1 or 2 of my spark plugs are pretty much drenched in oil. If drenched in oil, will my spark plugs even spark?
Which plugs are they - the outside ones, or the two inner ones, or pairs that closest to which end of the engine? Drenched to the insulators (top of the plug, where the boot slips over the plug) or on the threads of the plugs? If the latter - then it has nothing to do with the valvecover gasket. That sounds more like a oil control/consumption issue. If heavily soaked - clean them with some solvent and let air dry or just replace them. Don't be tempted to wirebrush them - as metal from the brush will deposit onto the insulator cone and potentially cause detonation/misfire issues.

 

If oil made it past the base of the plug and onto the insulator or plug boot - then you either have a leaky gasket or the plugs have loosened over time. Before you remove the plugs - take a peek down the plug wells with a flashlight - if the plugs are swimming in oil, then you probably have a little problem. Kind of unusualy for the gasket to leak near the plugs and not around the perimeter of the valvecover. Might want to try tightening those bolts all around (10mm) - not too much, just hand tight and then a hair more. There are little metal tabs that prevent you from overtightening the valvecover - but may not help if someone is determined to He-Man them down.

99 Manual, 84K. Does not burn a drop. For the past 5 years and since 32k miles(do not know history before then) it has seen only Mobil 1 changed anywhere from 5k to 7k miles. Trips have been the worst kind... under 3 miles many times. My current commute is 2 miles. Again, the oil level stays steady....

How do I know if my valve gasket is bad? 1 or 2 of my spark plugs are pretty much drenched in oil. If drenched in oil, will my spark plugs even spark?

Which plugs are they - the outside ones, or the two inner ones, or pairs that closest to which end of the engine? Drenched to the insulators (top of the plug, where the boot slips over the plug) or on the threads of the plugs? If the latter - then it has nothing to do with the valvecover gasket. That sounds more like a oil control/consumption issue. If heavily soaked - clean them with some solvent and let air dry or just replace them. Don't be tempted to wirebrush them - as metal from the brush will deposit onto the insulator cone and potentially cause detonation/misfire issues.

 

If oil made it past the base of the plug and onto the insulator or plug boot - then you either have a leaky gasket or the plugs have loosened over time. Before you remove the plugs - take a peek down the plug wells with a flashlight - if the plugs are swimming in oil, then you probably have a little problem. Kind of unusualy for the gasket to leak near the plugs and not around the perimeter of the valvecover. Might want to try tightening those bolts all around (10mm) - not too much, just hand tight and then a hair more. There are little metal tabs that prevent you from overtightening the valvecover - but may not help if someone is determined to He-Man them down.

The inner ones. Only the threads down are drenched. I checked my plugs 10k miles after I changed them and again, drenched, dripping with oil.

FYI Someone wrote into the latest issue of Popular Mechanics to ask if he should be concerned that his '07 Solara was consuming a quart every 1000 miles. The reply indicated that it is normal and modern cars often consume a quart every 600 miles.

The inner ones. Only the threads down are drenched. I checked my plugs 10k miles after I changed them and again, drenched, dripping with oil.

Hmm, that sounds like you have a problem with the piston rings in the cylinder with the affected plugs or valve seals are bad and leaking oil down past the valves and onto the plugs. Could also be an ignition issue - but need to eliminate other potential issues first before you go that direction.

Coulpe of things I would double check - check the plug numbers, make sure they are the correct heat range. If too cold - they will get oil soaked in a hurry, if too hot, they will be prone to blister and cause predetonation issues. Visually verify that oil is not in the plug well before you pull the plugs - sometimes, removing the plug will cause the oil to seep down and foul the firing end of the plug. Verify the gap of the plugs - look and see if some debris is stuck between the ground loop and center electrode - that would cause a misfire and prevent the plug from self-cleaning. Double check the plug wires (1998-1999 Corolla) or Coil on Plug units (2000+ Corollas) and make sure they are in good shape and making contact with the plug. Double check the ground straps (chassis grounds) on the engine - the 1ZZFE is pretty sensitive to electrical noise, can cause all sorts of fun things with the engine.

Also, may not be a bad idea and do a compression test on the engine - see how the two inner cylinder compare with the others.



Topic List