ya, the bearing has to be pressed into the knuckle, and hub into the bearing. its not something you can do athome unless you have a 6 ton shop press in your garage.

ya, the bearing has to be pressed into the knuckle, and hub into the bearing. its not something you can do athome unless you have a 6 ton shop press in your garage.

I will give it a try with a big hammer and see if that works.

See:

https://www.corolland.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=148931

ya, the bearing has to be pressed into the knuckle, and hub into the bearing. its not something you can do athome unless you have a 6 ton shop press in your garage.

Why don't they just make them one piece, if it pust the parts together so tightly?

 

I will give it a try with a big hammer and see if that works.

I will give it a try with a big hammer and see if that works.

Bman...I would strongly advise against trying it with a hammer. There will be a very high probability of destroying your new parts. I know on the older American cars you could get away with doing it that way, but this job on a Corolla is a different animal.

I will give it a try with a big hammer and see if that works.

 

Bman...I would strongly advise against trying it with a hammer. There will be a very high probability of destroying your new parts. I know on the older American cars you could get away with doing it that way, but this job on a Corolla is a different animal.

I will probably take off the steering knuckle and have it done somewhere.

I got the car back from the shop and tomorrow the plan is to take both front knuckles off.

Has anyone done that before?

I have read the manual and it gave me the impression that the ball joints had to come apart.

How do the ball joints come apart? I have taken off the cotter pin and undone the nut, but the bolt always seems stuck.

Any easy way to get the knuckle off?

Yes....but he told me it much easier if they do it on the car as the knuckle is stationary while the pressing procedure is performed. Otherwise he will need to wrestle with it othe knuckle on bench or the floor.

.....Has anyone done that before?

Yes....but he told me it much easier if they do it on the car as the knuckle is stationary while the pressing procedure is performed. Otherwise he will need to wrestle with it othe knuckle on bench or the floor.

.....Has anyone done that before?

Is it a portable machine that can be moved around the steering knuckle?

I described the kit in another one of your posts somewhere on the forum.

Yes....but he told me it much easier if they do it on the car as the knuckle is stationary while the pressing procedure is performed. Otherwise he will need to wrestle with it othe knuckle on bench or the floor.

.....Has anyone done that before?

How do they put the car in a big press?

 

Is it a portable machine that can be moved around the steering knuckle?

I described the kit in another one of your posts somewhere on the forum.

Yes....but he told me it much easier if they do it on the car as the knuckle is stationary while the pressing procedure is performed. Otherwise he will need to wrestle with it othe knuckle on bench or the floor.

.....Has anyone done that before?

How do they put the car in a big press?

 

Is it a portable machine that can be moved around the steering knuckle?

If I missed it, then there are probably others that did as well.

Anyway it does not matter. I think the bearings are still good and it was the dustcovers scraping that made the noise.

I will try putting everything back together and then take it for a test drive to tell for sure.

After inspecting the hub and bearings I decided they were still very serviceable.

I put more grease in the CV joints and lubed everything. Then I put it all back together.

I test drove it and it seems to be quieter (although still some noise).

I believe the bad noise before was from the brake dust shield scraping the rotor as it rotated.

After bending it away from the rotor, there is considerably less noise.

There is still some noise - mostly the initial shift noise from the tranny, then a "whirring" noise from the rotating shafts.

I will drive it for a while to see if it gets better or worse and decide if I really need to change the bearings or not.

More to follow.

I checked with a repair shop and they would not take the job using the parts I already purchased.

I will check with the store that I purchased the parts from and see if they will do the repair work.

I am not sure that the front end noise is from bad hub and bearings, but I have already purchased replacements.

The trouble is that they are pressed in and I have to remove the old ones.

Perhaps I should have bought the ones already assembled instead of the repair kit?

Tomorrow I will jack the car up and run it while listening for the noise.

I hope to isolate the source.

ya, in gear you should hear the noise with the front wheels turning. if you have a helper have them hold the speed at about 30, it should become very apparent. you'll need to be careful of the moving parts and be sure the car wont come off the jackstands!

what kind of clamps did you use to hold the CV boots closed? you can not use a regular worm clamp, they will cause a balance issue at highway speeds!

ya, in gear you should hear the noise with the front wheels turning. if you have a helper have them hold the speed at about 30, it should become very apparent. you'll need to be careful of the moving parts and be sure the car wont come off the jackstands!

what kind of clamps did you use to hold the CV boots closed? you can not use a regular worm clamp, they will cause a balance issue at highway speeds!

I plan on putting it up on jack stands pretty securely.

I used some CV boot clamps from Kragen Auto Parts.

They are not like the worm clamps (like radiator clamps?).

I hope to hear whatever is making the noise. If it is the transaxle, what can I do with it?

What if it turns out to be the remanufactured half shafts? Should I try and return those?

Maybe it will be the brake rotors? Then I will get them "turned" or replaced.

Somewhere there is an answer.

The half shafts should be warranted.

What if it turns out to be the remanufactured half shafts? Should I try and return those?

The half shafts should be warranted.

What if it turns out to be the remanufactured half shafts? Should I try and return those?

When I bought mine recently, I believe all that I looked at were Lifetime Warranty.

The half shafts should be warranted.

What if it turns out to be the remanufactured half shafts? Should I try and return those?

Thanks, I am sure Kragen Auto Parts will exchange them if it is within 30 days.

 

I am checking into the length of the shaft for my car.

I suspect that the short one on the driver's side is too short.

Every time I take off the hub and bearing, the shaft comes out with the CV joint exposed and the housing stuck in the differential.

The boot comes off with the shaft and the clamp has come off. I have ordered another CV boot clamp and will get it tomorrow.

I plan on repacking the CV boot with grease and then putting the half shaft back together.

I just got the new hub and bearings from the machine shop and I will install that as well.

After they are installed I will know whether they actually were the source of the loud noise.

More to follow.

I need to get another CV boot clamp before I put the driver's side back together, but the passenger's side is done.

It feels real tight and I don't expect any abnormal noise from it.

The machine shop at Napa Auto Parts too out the old parts and installed the new ones.

It was $45 a side ($90 total), but they had the tools to do it and I did not.

More to follow.

make sure those cv joints have no play, hold the axle in one hand and move the joint cup back and forth. the axle and cup should move as one with no play between the 2. to check the outer do the same. hold the axle and move the wheel back and forth, should all move as one with no play. any play means bad joint.

make sure those cv joints have no play, hold the axle in one hand and move the joint cup back and forth. the axle and cup should move as one with no play between the 2. to check the outer do the same. hold the axle and move the wheel back and forth, should all move as one with no play. any play means bad joint.

What about when the CV joint is inside the differential cup - should the CV joint be all the way in, halfway in or close to coming out?

I wonder if one of the shafts is too short? When I put it all together it seems like the axle comes out of the differential.

I am looking for the length dimensions for the shafts. Kragen Auto may have given me a short one - I never compared to the old one.

i mean that there should be no rotational play. the wheel and joints and axle should all move exactly as one, not even 1mm of rotational slack.

the inner joint should expand in and out, the outer joint should pivot. to further clarify, the axle should not be sliding out of the transmission, the inner joint allows the axle to change length as the suspension moves up and down. when the wheel moves up the axle gets shorter, wheel goes down the axle gets longer. the inner joint handles that. the outer joint allows the wheel to turn side to side.