Got My Next Project Car

other than obvious holes in the case or large fluid leaks, looking at the outside of transmission is like looking at the bottom of your foot to see if you have brain cancer.

That is why I am planning on trying it out on my next car needing a transmission.

Odds are that it is good and it was the bad CV joints which were bad.

I am not paying someone $250 just to take it apart and put it back together.

I don't have the time or the expertise to do it myself, so I go with the test by operation method.

I put the newer transaxle in the car today and started to put everything back together.

The rear mount was very difficult to get aligned, but after jacking and moving the engine, it went together.

Another problem I had and will work on tomorrow is the drive shaft installations.

I put the driver's side in without a problem, but the passenger's side (the longer one) did not seem to want to go into the differential easily.

I banged on the end of the axle, but it failed to "pop" into the differential case as the other side had done.

More to follow.

new motor mounts would be a great idea bud, while they may LOOK ok, looks arent everything. theyre cheap and can really smooth the idle and kill mystery clunks.

new motor mounts would be a great idea bud, while they may LOOK ok, looks arent everything. theyre cheap and can really smooth the idle and kill mystery clunks.

I could easily have changed them while I had the transmission out, but they looked good to go - as is.

After the car is driven, if the engine shakes and it seems like the mounts are bad, I will change them.

If they don't make for a rough running engine or have any mystery clunks, then they stay.

I compared it to the old transaxle and it looked a little different.

I removed it and then tried to install it again and it seemed to go in the same amount, except it kind of "popped" in.

I think it is in as far as it will go and I put the brake parts and the wheel back on.

The manual gave differential fluid quantity as 1 1/2 quarts and I put nearly that amount before it started overflowing.

Tomorrow I fill the transaxle with fluid, change the engine oil and then start it up for a test, before I jack it down.

I think it will work fine and it will be ready for sale.

More to follow.

I filled the transaxle with fluid and took the car out for a test drive.

It seemed like it was slipping quite a bit.

Do I need to drive it awhile before it gets lubricated and shifts correctly?

It is an automatic and shifts by itself.

At times I step on the gas and the engine rev's but the car does not move -

other times it goes like crazy when I step on the gas.

What causes this?? Should I consider the replacement tranny bad?

Should I give it more time to work itself out?

When you drained and refilled the transmission - did you pause a few seconds in each gear to make sure that the fluid got pumped all around in there. Might just be low or possibly too full - could also be the torque converter clutch is out of fluid, maybe one of the check balls and springs are gummed up in the valvebody, hard to tell (hopefully not a bad torque converter).

I thought it would take a while for the fluid to circulate and possibly that is the cause of it not working right.

If I drive it around a bit, will it get better or worse?

I never drained the tranny - it was bone dry when I received it.

I added ATF, then ran it a little, then topped it off.

I also drove it a few miles (it was really slipping) and then came back to recheck it.

I added more fluid and I will drive it some more for a test.

The worst case scenario is that the transaxle I purchased from Cherry Auto is not real good.

Then I would have to replace it - I am sure I will have to pay for return shipping - not cheap.

Hopefully they would have another similar tranny, or find one for me.

I could also put the original back in - I am not positive it is bad, or have it rebuilt ($250 to inspect, $700 for rebuild).

I don't know if it is worth it.

I will keep working with it and also checking the local junkyard for a suitable transaxle donor - much cheaper there.

What would you do??

I'm pretty sure that they will eat the shipping charges back if they sent you a defective transmission. If the tranny is bone dry, that could explain some of the issues you are seeing. Should be getting better, the more you drive the car - might have to do another drain and refill - to help wash any contaminants out of the system, as it could be anything in there.

I will have to drive it some more to be certain.

Do places normally completely deplete the transaxles?

How could they get it so clean? - maybe it was pressure washed (it had no grease on it at all)?

I used some engine degreaser on my old transaxle, but it did not get it nearly as clean as a pressure washer.

I might have to take it to the auto hobby shop on base and use their sprayer, since I don't have one.

The transaxle valve body had to be cleaned and the cost was re-imbursed by the seller of the transaxle.

The car runs great and now it has over 176,000 miles on it.

I have been driving the car (alternating with my 1994 daily driver), since the transaxle was fixed and it is up for sale.

I have not had any problem since the car was fixed in October of last year. That makes three months of test driving.

I have a buyer who plans to pick it up on Thursday - hopefully.

Car still runs good - the only problem is the dome light.

It does not come on - I have changed the bulb with a known good one and it still does not work.

I may sell it as is, or try to get it working right. No big deal, car still operates without it.

More to follow.

Do you have 12 volts present at two of the three switch settings with the door open?

Bad fuse, connection or switch.

My daughter's 1998 Camry dome light is a PIA. It appears that the spring clamping pressure at the bulb connections is not tight enough. We've squeezed them together so they are tighter, replaced with a new bulb, cleaned the contacts in the holder....still intermittent. Could be a flakey switch. Next thing I'll try is a paste used to improve electrical connections called OxGard.

http://www.olypen.com/craigh/oxgard.htm

Jay in MA

Car still runs good - the only problem is the dome light.It does not come on - I have changed the bulb with a known good one and it still does not work.

 

I may sell it as is, or try to get it working right. No big deal, car still operates without it.

More to follow.

I have not metered the dome light contacts yet, so I don't know if it is getting voltage.

I have changed the bulb and it did not work so there is something else to it.

If it were a fuse, I think something else would not be working as well and everything else works.

I will check it out at another time (maybe).

It is not a major concern.

The prospective owners are planning on purchasing the car tomorrow.

The transmission was changed, and then repaired (the valve body was professionally cleaned, as it was sticking).

The old transaxle was repaired and is now a spare - waiting for a recipeint car.

The wheel hubs and bearings were changed, as well as both drive shafts along with both CV joints.

Numerous other parts were changed - Hood, fender, trunk, bumper, door handles (both inside and outside), etc

Hopefully the car will be sold. More to follow.

Car was sold two days ago and the new owners have gone to the DMV to g0t it registered in their name.

One less car in my driveway, although the car was a good one to drive.

I have finished working on my neighbors 1997 and since that is done, I have a 1995 to fix.

More to follow.

Today I took out the starter on the 1995 and took it and another to Kragen Auto Parts to be tested.

They both tested good on their machine.

I took the other one and installed it in the car and it failed to work.

It was similar to the old one - just rotated the engine and then started clicking.

After that - dead. I put the battery on a charger and will see about trying a different starter.

More to follow

Did you take a voltage reading of your battery before and after you tried starting it?

Today I took out the starter on the 1995 and took it and another to Kragen Auto Parts to be tested.They both tested good on their machine.

 

I took the other one and installed it in the car and it failed to work.

It was similar to the old one - just rotated the engine and then started clicking.

After that - dead. I put the battery on a charger and will see about trying a different starter.

More to follow

Did you take a voltage reading of your battery before and after you tried starting it?

Today I took out the starter on the 1995 and took it and another to Kragen Auto Parts to be tested.They both tested good on their machine.

 

I took the other one and installed it in the car and it failed to work.

It was similar to the old one - just rotated the engine and then started clicking.

After that - dead. I put the battery on a charger and will see about trying a different starter.

More to follow

I did that twice and both times it sounded like it wanted to start, then went to clicking noises, then nothing.

Do you think it is the battery?

I also tried jumping it with my own car and it just clicked.

Maybe the two starters are bad, the connections are not good, or the battery is not good enough??

I can check the battery voltage - should be above 12 V- correct??

The other day, a light tap on the starter helped it rotate the engine.

Today I changed the starter and it did not rotate. I did not try and tap it.

It just clicked and it seemed like it was a bad starter.

Today I got a remanufacured starter from Kragen Auto Parts ($100 thru my Midas friend).

I put it in and the same - just clicked. I have concluded, it is not the starter.

I started doing relay swaps with my other car and they all seemed good.

It is obviously a wiring or connection problem.

Tomorrow will be more troubleshooting of this problem.

More to follow.