by Marcos, July 2, 2007
Hello Everyone, lately i have noticed a weird rattling or clicking noise coming from my engine box. It sounds like two pieces of metal hitting eachother or somthing like that. Any clue what it might be, I haven't noticed any loss in power or any leaks. The car dosn't misfire or anything, I just changed my spark plugs (NGK Iridium), my wires (MSD Ignition), my engine oil (Royal Purple) and my oil filter (K&N). HELP PLEASE!! I sounds really Bad.
It's not likely anyone can help without more specific information, like what engine you have. Get length of towel or tubing and use it to listen to various places around the engine and tell us exactlyl where the noise is.
Are you sure that the plugs you bought are the correct ones? If they are incorrectly sized, the sound you are hearing may be the pistons glancing off them. Pull the plugs and check immediately! Look for score marks on the plugs...
Well I have a 98 Corolla 1zz-Fe. I checked wires and plugs they look fine. I only get the nosie when the car is between 2500 and 4000 rpms. It is coming from the engine block itself. It sound like a loud rattling noise, imagine two knives being hit together. But like I said, no check engine light, no power loss, and no leaks. I am worried though as it sound really bad.
Bikeman982
If it is loud - you should be able to isolate it.
Check the engine and manually move the accelerator to 2500-4000 RPM and listen for the noise.
Could be something serious and you need to find the cause immediately.
Try to isolate it to the general area. Might be a component change, a minor part, or some serious engine malfunction.
Well I've tried to isolate the problem and it's sounds like its coming from inside the engine block close to the first piston, going from the right. It sound as though it only happens when the car is reving down. So between 2500 and 4000 rpms but after I let go of the gas.
Bikeman982
Well I've tried to isolate the problem and it's sounds like its coming from inside the engine block close to the first piston, going from the right. It sound as though it only happens when the car is reving down. So between 2500 and 4000 rpms but after I let go of the gas.If it is inside the engine block, then it doesn't sound good.
It could be an exhaust valve that is bad or something more serious.
Going from the right?? Passenger or driver's side? If driver's side, it could actually be something in the transmission and not the engine.
Automatic or manual??
Like Collector said...be sure that the plugs aren't too long.
Tashirosgt mentioned using some tubing or a dowel as a sounding device. This works very well in determining where noises are originating.
Jay in MA
Well I have a 98 Corolla 1zz-Fe. I checked wires and plugs they look fine. I only get the nosie when the car is between 2500 and 4000 rpms. It is coming from the engine block itself. It sound like a loud rattling noise, imagine two knives being hit together. But like I said, no check engine light, no power loss, and no leaks. I am worried though as it sound really bad.
Hello Everyone, lately i have noticed a weird rattling or clicking noise coming from my engine box. It sounds like two pieces of metal hitting eachother or somthing like that. Any clue what it might be, I haven't noticed any loss in power or any leaks. The car dosn't misfire or anything, I just changed my spark plugs (NGK Iridium), my wires (MSD Ignition), my engine oil (Royal Purple) and my oil filter (K&N). HELP PLEASE!! I sounds really Bad.
how many miles do u have on the motor?and do u tend to speed a lot?it could be ur valves tapping...thats how my car is...cuz i race a lot
Do I speed... let me think, Yeah! A lot. I race my car often too. Every Friday and Saturday to be exact. I wont say I run it against anything in particular but i can take those single cam vtech accords pretty easily (with a 75hp shot of NOS). So do you think it could be my valves, that is what i was thinking but I thought i would ask you guys. Im still unsure though i think it could be a piston but then agin i would loose power and it might misfire huh. Dont know im out of ideas on what it could be.
I had the same thing start and the engine went about 6 weeks later. Pray its not the same for you.
I tore my engine in half and looked inside but I couldnt find anything visibly striking me to what the issue is. I havent torn down the lower end yet, I am assuming it must have been lower end failure. I suggest you get a mechanics stethescope from autozone for a couple bux to isolate it even further as a definite. Its just a stethescope with a rod on the end but its really handy. To me it sounded like it was coming from the head- on the exhaust side- on the cyl closest to the drivers side. I was sure I had bent valves, absolutely sure it had to be the case. - they were all unbent.
Do a compression test or if you can, a leakdown test. That will tell you alot.
My 5 speed 160k mile 2000 corolla didnt do it on full accel or decel, only on very light load throttle. I started losing low end power as it went (I had the noise before the power loss but a few weeks later that started fast), and eventually it kicked off the side of the road and barely ran but sounded like some serious smashing was going on down there.
I just got my car on the road after the most hellish swap I have ever done, this car is crap to work on. I had just yanked out and tore down the engine from my 240sx. fully broken down top and bottom in about 8 hours. The corolla engine swap as well as removing the head before I started took me between 40-60 hours. This is in a shop with a lift and a full set of quality tools. This is probably the 5th engine drop I have done personally. I picked up a cheap 03 engine locally and its running that now, feels great. Better not pull the same crap down the road.
If you gotta do a drop I recommend coming in from the bottom (crossmember is easy to pull) and pulling the tranny at the same time. Seems like more work but seperate it off the car and it would be alot easier than what I went through. Might as well do the 03-04 engine before it had drive by wire but you would have to do a little wiring for the coilpacks and vvt IIRC - well worth the gains you would see.
Bikeman982
Any bad sounding noise can be trouble. It means something isn't lubricated, or has worn excessively, or is out of position.
I suggest you get it looked at by someone who knows car engines very well.
Hey everyone I started this thread almost a year ago and totally forgot to reply. Well I found out what the noise was. The tensioner on the timing belt was going out so when the engine reved up the chain would knock against the guides. I have also had time to add a couple things to the car since then, I put a full Tein coil over kit on it, changed my tires (my front ones were bald and the back ones werent any better), I also swaped out the engine with a 2003 corolla S VVT-I engine (Its wasnt all that hard most everything matched up just had to get the wiring harness from the 03)... And let me tell you I love the VVT-I compared to the other 1zz-fe. I also portmatched the intake and exhaust headers, I also got my head port and polished, got a full custom exhaust (I used Borla tanks, a high flow cat and a one in two out muffler it sounds great!), new headlights and euro tail lights, I got some reverse glow guages for my dash, and last but not least I swaped out my seats with some recaro racing seats. I would like to thank everyone for their help, it really helped alot and its nice to know that you can count on someone when you need some help. thanks again.
Bikeman982
Hey everyone I started this thread almost a year ago and totally forgot to reply. Well I found out what the noise was. The tensioner on the timing belt was going out so when the engine reved up the chain would knock against the guides. I have also had time to add a couple things to the car since then, I put a full Tein coil over kit on it, changed my tires (my front ones were bald and the back ones werent any better), I also swaped out the engine with a 2003 corolla S VVT-I engine (Its wasnt all that hard most everything matched up just had to get the wiring harness from the 03)... And let me tell you I love the VVT-I compared to the other 1zz-fe. I also portmatched the intake and exhaust headers, I also got my head port and polished, got a full custom exhaust (I used Borla tanks, a high flow cat and a one in two out muffler it sounds great!), new headlights and euro tail lights, I got some reverse glow guages for my dash, and last but not least I swaped out my seats with some recaro racing seats. I would like to thank everyone for their help, it really helped alot and its nice to know that you can count on someone when you need some help. thanks again.Thanks for the update.
It sounds like you were busy and have made some great changes.
Ok, well Im back. I just did the stupidest thing, dont laugh, but I just blew the motor that I just put in my corolla. I strapped on a Garett t25bb turbo, well I didnt notice that the turbo was set to 15 psi... see were Im going... So after installing it i decided to take the car for a spin, and pop goes the weasel. I guess what im saying is does anyone have a clue were i can get another 1zzfe with vvt-i? (I would love the dual vvt-i engine out of the celica gt but I havent been able to find one) and a 6 speed tranny out of the celica (does anyone know the code of that tranny?). I know that was stupid, but I was excited.
why not rebuild the new engine?
Well I just want to get it running like NOW. So i was thinking I would put another engine in it so i could run it and then rebuild the one that I messed up.
The 6-speed tranny is a C60 - best to get them sourced from another FWD platform, like a Corolla XRS, Matrix XRS, or Celica GT-S - could get one from overseas, but probably too much work to make it happen, unless you happen to grab a half-cut (entire drivetrain clip). As for the Celica GT engine - not much difference between than and the standard fare 1ZZ-FE w/VVTi. The only reason the Celica puts out a little more power is that its tuning is slightly different and slight differences in the head design (ie, valve sizes). Still is only VVT-i on the exhaust side only - like the other 1ZZ-FE engines.
Sorry to hear about the turbo mishap - too bad it happens way more often than it should, ie. get too excited about the install and take the car for a test drive too soon. Usually an overboost is not a problem, probably that coupled with needing a correct tune did the engine in - should post up pics of what was left of the engine. MWR might be the way to go - have them build up a beefier motor to handle that extra stress and provide a safe baseline tune.
Hey thanks for the info on the that tranny. I still havent found an engine but I guess I'll just drive my girlfriends Audi A4 quattro to work for awhile. I just sent the bottem end of the original motor (1zz-fe non vvt-i) to portland to get bored and stroked, (as the one with the turbo incident cracked.) I cant remember the bore size i will check and post it but the guy that is doing it said it would go from a 1800ccs to about 23500cc so from a 1.8 to about a 2.4 L. I will keep you guys posted.
I don't know about spending the money on boring and stroking a block that was already cracked. Doesn't matter how you fix it, that engine will not run right again. I would take the used engine you find and built that up. The cracked block I would just sell for scrap or turn it into a coffee table or something.
Pumping it to 2.4L is also very ambitious - with no balance shafts, that will run like a diesel truck. Maybe a 82mm bore (+3mm from OEM) with a stock crank will take it to nearly 2.0L - that might be a more workable situation, more parts available, more meat left between the cylinders for better cooling, etc. Readily availabe pistons in the 82mm size as well (think 2ZZ-GE - 82mm x 85mm).
Who's this in Portland that is doing this? Just curious to see how they can 2.4L from the 1ZZ-FE and still run well. Bore centers are 87.5mm - so they can't get too crazy with boring it out. Stroke is limited as well. Only way I can see them hit nearly 2.4L is to run +3mm overbore (82mm) with a 111.5mm stroke (2355cc). I think someone tried in the UK - but the stroke didn't work, hit the bottom of the cylinder and/or jammed the piston in the bore (side-loading). Eventually tossed the idea of the longer stroke and kept the 82mm bore and OEM crank - that gave them 1933cc displacement.
OK I found out that I miss quoted him, hes going to bore it about >300cc (not 3000ccs sorry for the misunderstanding) so about a 2.0L, still forgot to ask for the size but I think that your about right fishexpo. Oh and I didnt send in my cracked block I sent in the original motor that came with the car. It had about 120,000miles when I took it out and it ran fine. I do have a question for anyone that can answer it. Will the top end off the 2zz bolt on to my 1zzfe? Its not a vvt-i but I have the harness of the 03 corolla with vvt-i. Also will the 6 speed tranny out of the GT-S bold on to the 1zzfe?
Cool! No problems, just curious. As for the cylinder head, unfortunantly, a 2ZZ-GE head will not bolt onto a 1ZZ-FE head - unlike the previous generation of engines. More than just a fitment issue, the two blocks are too different to allow this swap to happen. Easier to just swap the whole setup, engine/trans/ECM/etc. from a donor vehicle your car.
The tranny is a different story - the C60 6-speed and the C56/C59 5-speed, share a common bolt pattern - but I wouldn't call it a direct fit. You will need a bunch of parts to make it work correctly (ie. all the bits that attached to the original 6-speed transaxles, like the axles, shifter cables, might have to modify the existing block for more clearance (depends on what side the shift bracket is on - just like older C50/C52 swaps with a C160 transaxles).
Thanks for that info Fishexpo, and thats dissapointing I was hoping I could make a frankenstein engine. Well I think Im just gonna put a 2zz in it with a 6speed just make things easier or stick to the 1zz and with the vvt-i and a 5 speed. Dont know Im thinking of just getting rid of the car completely and getting a Scion tc. What do you guys think I should do?
That is completely up to you. Sticking with a 1ZZ-FE w/5-speed will be the least expensive out of the options. Swapping a 2ZZ-GE and 6-speed would be next - engines start around $1500, about another $1000 for tranny, figure another $1500 for parts that you need to make it work - still not too bad. A tC gets you something that is between the two options, performance wise, much bigger car (size and engine displacement) - so you have to take that into account for maintenance and especially insurance.
If it was my car - I'd stick with the 1ZZ-FE and 5-speed - keep it as a DD, then save for something more appropriate later. No need to dump everything and start again - unless you like that new or newer car idea.
Well im just kinda dissapointed in the car, I mean I like the car but there are not that many options for the car and everything is so expensive. Im tired of not being able to find stuff for it (I mean aftermarket stuff). It was hard enough to find the taillights I have on it. I dont know. Im just going to put the stock motor in it with the A/T tranny and leave it alone. Im done with it. Thanks for the help fishexpo. I'll post some pics of it I think Im gonna sell it (Im so frustrated with the car...) and get a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution MR. If you have any ideas for the car just tell me cuz Im out of them. Thanks for the help.
