Screwed Tire - Corolland: the Toyota Corolla Forums

I found out during my regular inspections I do on my tires that there's a screw in the tire on the back left tire. My tires are Yokohama Avid H4s, 185/60/14inch wheels.

Its a pretty big screw too, I am posting pics here:

Also near the screw area on the side wall there's a crack/cut on the tire:

Do you guys think its ok to have the tire patched for the puncture from the screw, or is the cut on the sidewall too risky?

Can that cut be repaired? I think I might have certificates for free replacement for these tires I got from Discount Tire America, but not sure if they would send me a new tire or not. I am thinking if I need to get, I will get two more new Avid H4s and put them on the front and move the two older ones to the back.

The screw in the tire is not much of a problem - that crack on the other hand, if it was my car - that tire would be scrapped ASAP. Radial tires are very tough, but once you compromise one of the major structures, in this case the tread/cap - you would be looking at trouble very soon. Tire might still hold air and might hold its shape at speed, but get enough things wrong to happen at the right moment = a sudden blowout.

Might be able to get some relief from the vendor - sometimes they bundle their package deals with road hazard warranties or they might come with the tires (varies from area to area).

Hey fishexpo101, how are you? didn't expect a reply this late in the night. Thanks.

Yeah I am concerned about the cut on the sidewall. I am gonna call Discount Tire and see what they say about the free replacement. Can the old air valves be reused on the new tires?

I also saw they had the Avid T4 Touring ones, how are these compared to the Avid H4s tires?

Do you see any problem mixing different tire models?

I like the Avid H4s but the sidewalls seem so soft, I have them at 36.5psi and the tire on the front right looked looked squished like it was leaking air, but it wasn't is this a flaw on the sidewalls?

If you have the Discount Tire free replacement, use it - that tire's a goner.

Do not reuse the valve stem. Stems are cheap. If they fail, you lose your air pressure. I had one break off because Tire King had it around too long before using it on my job.

I think the tire store will charge for balancing on the replacement.

If the other 3 are well worn, might want to replace the set of 4.

g'day,

the tyre puncture can be easily fix, i usually repair it myself using a tyre puncture repair kit sold here at supercheap auto or repco store here queensland, australia. just follow the procedure accompanied w/ the kit.

i am a bit worried w/ the sidewall crack, for me i will replace it. regarding the use of different thread tyres or brand, i reckon you can use it as long as you put it at the rear. in my own experience using it on the front it can cause erratic handling problems.

rey t

Hey fishexpo101, how are you? didn't expect a reply this late in the night. Thanks.Yeah I am concerned about the cut on the sidewall. I am gonna call Discount Tire and see what they say about the free replacement. Can the old air valves be reused on the new tires?

I also saw they had the Avid T4 Touring ones, how are these compared to the Avid H4s tires?
Do you see any problem mixing different tire models?
I like the Avid H4s but the sidewalls seem so soft, I have them at 36.5psi and the tire on the front right looked looked squished like it was leaking air, but it wasn't is this a flaw on the sidewalls?

Yeah, I work all kinds of weird hours depending on what I'm doing - like now, when I'm on experiment, sometimes 24/7 data collection/processing default_biggrin

As for the AVID series - all very good tires. The H4S is probably more summer and performance oriented than the T4 touring. The touring tire is more for a softer, quieter ride than anything else. I also run AVID H4S, and they are a softer (sidewalled) tire - though I'd tend to prefer this type than a straight touring or regular all-season tire, performance is more important than longevity. I run about 42 PSI in mine - and I agree, they still look a little short on air - but you shouldn't always go on look alone.

Hey fishexpo101, how are you? didn't expect a reply this late in the night. Thanks.Yeah I am concerned about the cut on the sidewall. I am gonna call Discount Tire and see what they say about the free replacement. Can the old air valves be reused on the new tires?

I also saw they had the Avid T4 Touring ones, how are these compared to the Avid H4s tires?
Do you see any problem mixing different tire models?
I like the Avid H4s but the sidewalls seem so soft, I have them at 36.5psi and the tire on the front right looked looked squished like it was leaking air, but it wasn't is this a flaw on the sidewalls?
Yeah, I work all kinds of weird hours depending on what I'm doing - like now, when I'm on experiment, sometimes 24/7 data collection/processing .

As for the AVID series - all very good tires. The H4S is probably more summer and performance oriented than the T4 touring. The touring tire is more for a softer, quieter ride than anything else. I also run AVID H4S, and they are a softer (sidewalled) tire - though I'd tend to prefer this type than a straight touring or regular all-season tire, performance is more important than longevity. I run about 42 PSI in mine - and I agree, they still look a little short on air - but you shouldn't always go on look alone.

they do look a bit low at first, the sidewall is a bit soft. however at 32-34 front and about 28 rear they do perfect for me! i NEVER go by look, i drive through a wet spot and look at my contact patch to see if theyre at a good pressure.

Dan{T.O.O}

If you are replacing just two tires it is recommended that you always put the new tires on the rear. I thought as most people do that you put the new ones on the front but you should put them on the rear. Check it out at this michelin site. http://www.michelinman.com/care/tip6.html#5 I wish all my American friends a very happy Memorial Day.

Dan from Toronto, Canada.

Hey guys thanks, was bbquing just now and started to rain so I had to stop for a while lol...

talk to you guys later.

Happy Memorial Day!

Hi guys, my called Discount tires and they are gonna send us the free replacement, so I got another Avid H4s so we can install them in the back. Luckily Dan posted that link about putting newer tires on the back, I was about to do the opposite!! Thanks!

Got one more question, I will be removing the left back tire and the front right tire(has a patch), and will be moving the back right tire to the front. I was wondering if the slight thickness in the threading will affect any driving performance?

Hey fishexpo101, was wondering since you have the same tires as mine(avid h4s)-how low do you let your tire threads go to?

Are the small raised threads that run perpendicular to the tire threads indicators? I checked and mine are pretty close and some are even with the indicators. I think I might just get two more Avid H4s' and replace them all at the same time.

I usually don't let my tires get more than even 1/2 way worn down. Used to work at a R&D center for tire development and testing. You'd be surprised on how much the traction varies as a function of tread depth. Tires are cheaper to replace than other parts of the car - I don't want to take a chance with something like traction.

The raised bars that run perpendicular to the main tire gooves are indeed wear indicators - marking out the minimum safe tread depth for operation on the road. Wear varys considerably depending on tire pressure, road conditions, and useage. I've been pretty fortunate - I got about 45K miles and they are almost to the halfway mark (500 AA A UTQG rating ~ 60K mile tire). But I also plump them up pretty good ~ 40PSI - 44PSI on average and I check them weekly. Only rotated them once so far - wear is pretty good.

I'd also ask Bitter - as he is also running AVID H4S on a 7th gen - I think they are also doing pretty well for him. Definitely can't go wrong with the Yokohamas.

Fish,

Bitter,

you guys are happy with the AVID H4S?

Think I will look for a set.

Thanks for the recommendation. Need to re-tire soon.

tdk.

my alignment isn't the best and i have a bum wheel bearing and i do not treat them gently at all, the tires after about 11K miles are showing noticeable wear, i rotate them 1-2 times a year, as far as grip they're fine most of the time, but i wish i had a little more stick sometimes, i drive more aggressive than most who drive a corolla. i'd like to try the falken ziex 512 next, but they have less snow traction than the H4's do and it does snow in chicago! the wet traction with the H4's are great! in the rain they bite predictably but in the dry i wish they had more stick! today i stopped fast for a red (turned from yellow) and they gave a hearty squeal like a raped pig without locking. abs never tripped, but the sound scared me a little.

Hey fishexpo101, how are you? didn't expect a reply this late in the night. Thanks.Yeah I am concerned about the cut on the sidewall. I am gonna call Discount Tire and see what they say about the free replacement. Can the old air valves be reused on the new tires?

I also saw they had the Avid T4 Touring ones, how are these compared to the Avid H4s tires?
Do you see any problem mixing different tire models?
I like the Avid H4s but the sidewalls seem so soft, I have them at 36.5psi and the tire on the front right looked looked squished like it was leaking air, but it wasn't is this a flaw on the sidewalls?
Yeah, I work all kinds of weird hours depending on what I'm doing - like now, when I'm on experiment, sometimes 24/7 data collection/processing .

As for the AVID series - all very good tires. The H4S is probably more summer and performance oriented than the T4 touring. The touring tire is more for a softer, quieter ride than anything else. I also run AVID H4S, and they are a softer (sidewalled) tire - though I'd tend to prefer this type than a straight touring or regular all-season tire, performance is more important than longevity. I run about 42 PSI in mine - and I agree, they still look a little short on air - but you shouldn't always go on look alone.

Same tires on my car and I also run them at 42 up front because they always look soft (grrr) and I try to avoid cupping. The rears I run at 35, the nominal max. I had some tire punctures last year and ended up replacing the H4s instead of repairing them as they were rather worn. The new tires are up front and the 4 year old tires are in back.

FYI, an Avid H4s from TireRack is ~$70 shipped.

I bought my Avid h4s at Discount Tire Direct for $61 with free shipping, for $8.75 more you get free replacement certs...busy now but I thought I'd add this...later

Ken

Wow so most of you have your Avid H4s' at 40psi and up huh....I usually have mine at 35-37psi for all 4 tires. I read on the sidewall it says not to inflate over 40psi so I never go near that, and I take it that it means 40psi cold air pressure right?

Fish since you used to work for R&D for tire developement, is that 40psi warning on the sidewall just a liability issue? I'd like to try 40psi this next time.

Also what are the pros and cons, of having different tire pressures on the front pairs and the back pairs?

a lower rear tire pressure helps to prevent the drum brakes from locking during brake dive and can make the car feel a little less nose heavy when cornering.

Max inflation stamped on the sidewall is for cold tire inflation. On the Yoko AVID H4S, should be 44PSI. Depending on conditions at hand - it is not unusual for the tire pressure to increase several PSI when up to operating temps. In some cases, overinflation is as bad as underinflation - the correct tire pressure is dependant on vehicle's suspension, driving conditions, and load capacity.

Since my driving is usually on decent highways (toll roads) over a relatively good distance on a slightly lowered suspension and slightly higher spring rates than OEM - I can run the higher pressures and be OK. Not to say that all tires can be inflated that high - just depends on the tire and experience you have at the time. There are a few tires that I run as high as 50PSI - 54PSI, because I know they can take it. In tire R&D - we sometimes run tire pressures as high as 200-300PSI with 2000-3000 pounds of force at 85-115MPH and run the tire to failure. I've seen tires blowup after a few minutes of this torture - others can run for days/weeks. Guess which one's I prefer to run on my personal vehicles default_biggrin .

You also brought up a very good point of tire pressure variance between axles. Bitter makes a good point about tire pressure and vehicle dynamics - depending on you driving conditions (ie. autocross or just like to drive "spiritedly" - running heavier spring rates or higher tire pressures in the rear axle of a FWD vehicle usually results in reduced control and tendancy for the back end to snap around in an emergency maneuver. Lowering the rear tire pressure or going with a softer spring rate will help keep the rear end following the fronts.

On long highway hauls where I might not touch the brakes or make big steering corrections - higher pressures will enhance tire life, keep tire temps and tire shape in check, and maximize fuel economy/minimize rolling resistance. Caveat is that I know that running higher pressures will sacrifice ultimate traction, potential for more damage from a very severe road hazard due to a blowout, and braking will suffer. But if I need that added traction and bigger contact patch - I know that I can drop the pressure, easiest way to get that back.

That's what makes it so hard - there is no "ideal" tire pressure for everyone. Good way to find out is to treat the tire pressure on the vehicle placard (~30-32PSI) as the absolute minimum tire pressure and treat the max cold inflation on the sidewall of the tire as the maximum. Fill the tire up to maximum tire pressure drive a little bit, then drop it in 2PSI steps until you hit a level where ride and performance are acceptable.

fish, if you dont mind i'm going to have that post above added to a sticky on a few eclipse sites about wheels/tires/brakes.

I don't mind - no problem at all.

Hi guys got one more question, I think my right front rotor is warped as it make that clugging sound when I am rolling to a stop or driving really slowly. Steering doesn't vibrate at all. This week when I go in to have my new tires mounted, I am gonna do my first alignment since I bought my car so thats a long time ago. My question is, if I do the Alignment first, and put off changing the rotor and brake pads till maybe a couple of weeks later, do you guys see any problem with this? Will the warped rotor have uneven braking and make the car go out of alignment again?

Brakes are independant of the alignment - as long as the noise you are hearing is truely the rotor and not the hub (sounds like it is the rotor). In that case, should have no problems with alignment getting thrown off.