Busted Bolts

try using an impact gun, its less likely to snap the bolts.

Hmm.. That's hard to get rid of.. When the head snaps off and you removed the screw, try to put some WD40 to remove some of the metal dusts or particles in there because you might mess the goovings and the new screw might get stuck in halfway...

I have tried drilling them out and it usually just makes another hole next to the stuck broken bolt.

I did retap one and it worked, but most are pretty bad and unusable.

I have started wire-brushing and then oiling the bolts prior to trying to remove them.

I really hate the NJ rust. I might as well get a whole new assortment of hardware.

I got some replacement nuts and bolts from the local junkyard today.

There is a new OSH down the street and I can check out the automotive hardware.

Since I'm used to working on rusty vehicles, I spray down any bolt that I need to loosen with PB Blaster a day ahead of time. I'll also hit it again about 30 min before I'm ready to work. Even after all of that, some are just too far beyond help.

Since I'm used to working on rusty vehicles, I spray down any bolt that I need to loosen with PB Blaster a day ahead of time. I'll also hit it again about 30 min before I'm ready to work. Even after all of that, some are just too far beyond help.

How do you get the broken part out?

Pretty much like fish said, if the easy out bit won't work, you are stuck drilling out larger and tapping. I haven't found a good way around it.

You can try a left handed drill bit. Sometimes that will back out the bolt.

If that doesn't work, you can weld a new bolt onto the broken bolt and back it out that way.

... I spray down any bolt that I need to loosen with PB Blaster a day ahead of time.

I 2nd that...that stuff is great.

You can try a left handed drill bit. Sometimes that will back out the bolt.

If that doesn't work, you can weld a new bolt onto the broken bolt and back it out that way.

I have broken several bits while trying to drill them out.

Sometimes that drill bit will work....it helped me free a broken manifold bolt from the block in my jeep that had over 100K mi...

If trying to drill out the old bolt shaft is making a hole alongside the bolt, you may be trying to use too big a drill bit. I'd suggest drilling a very small and shallow guide hole in the center of the old bolt before you switch to a larger bit. And it helps to use oil on the bit. Try to use the largest bit possible that doesn't damage the threads. Everytime I try to use s a small extractor, it also breaks off. Use the biggest one you can.

If trying to drill out the old bolt shaft is making a hole alongside the bolt, you may be trying to use too big a drill bit. I'd suggest drilling a very small and shallow guide hole in the center of the old bolt before you switch to a larger bit. And it helps to use oil on the bit. Try to use the largest bit possible that doesn't damage the threads. Everytime I try to use s a small extractor, it also breaks off. Use the biggest one you can.

If trying to drill out the old bolt shaft is making a hole alongside the bolt, you may be trying to use too big a drill bit. I'd suggest drilling a very small and shallow guide hole in the center of the old bolt before you switch to a larger bit. And it helps to use oil on the bit. Try to use the largest bit possible that doesn't damage the threads. Everytime I try to use s a small extractor, it also breaks off. Use the biggest one you can.

I try to center the hole on the bad bolt, but it either ends up sliding to the side, or the drill bit breaks.

 

I managed to get a nut on the other side and a bolt thru the clamp. It was a little tough, but I got it to tighten down.

I have numerous other broken bolts in the car. All the bolts on the radiator support are broken and so are the bumper mounts.

Also the splash guard bolts have all been broken off. The previous owner had some cheap wire ties holding the splash guards on.

I would like to get the broken bolts out and then put up the splash guards the standard way,

I will let you know what I end up doing.

It helps to punch the center of the broken bolt first. You can buy inexpensive spring loaded center punches which allows for one handed operation. Place the tip on the center of the bolt and push the punch. The spring snaps the punch tip forward and dimples the bolt to give you a spot to place the drill bit tip.

Jay

If trying to drill out the old bolt shaft is making a hole alongside the bolt, you may be trying to use too big a drill bit. I'd suggest drilling a very small and shallow guide hole in the center of the old bolt before you switch to a larger bit. And it helps to use oil on the bit. Try to use the largest bit possible that doesn't damage the threads. Everytime I try to use s a small extractor, it also breaks off. Use the biggest one you can.

I try to center the hole on the bad bolt, but it either ends up sliding to the side, or the drill bit breaks.

 

I do use a punch and it makes a start for the drill, but as I drill it shifts to the side a little.

It seems like the surrounding metal is softer to drill than the stuck bolt.

I still have a lot of rusted, and stuck bolts in the car.

I don't know if it is worth trying to get them out.

If I ever have to change any of the exhaust parts I will have to break them off and replace them.

The entire exhaust is rusted very much. I may need to change it all to get CA emissions to pass.

I can't believe my current car passed the smog check when it is clearly not CA emission equipped.

Fortunately I have another year before it has to be tested again.

First get a get a good center dimple with your punch.

Then start the first 1/8" or so of the hole with the smallest drill you own.

I would recommend using an intermediate sized bit next before moving up to the correct sized drill for the application. If you try to start the hole with the final size, the bit tends to walk towards the path of least resistance.

Another thing to consider is the condition of the drill bit. Also, a split point bit will not walk like a standard bit.

I would recommend the Drill Doctor product if you do a lot of drilling into metals and concrete. The latest model makes it extremely easy to redress split points. The earlier models did a good job but you had to look at the bit closely (with magnifier) to watch the progress of your efforts. The very early models only did standard bits. Get the model that also does larger sized drill bits.

Mine is the smaller version at the bottom. I'll probably upgrade and sell the smaller version as I do like the performance of split points.

http://woodworker.com/images/ss/105-926.jpg

This is the model that easily redresses split points.

http://www.drilldoctorstore.us/drilldoctor2.html

I just talked myself into a new one....ordered it here...good price, free shipping, no tax. I've had great results with Amazon for the most part. One gripe in all of the time using it and they showed an effort to rectify that problem. I signed up for their Amazon Visa credit card when I first started using Amazon. The rate was good and I was only going to use the card for on-line purchase until AMX Blue started some grief with me. I cancelled AMX Blue and use only the Amazon card. You'll get credits for using the card at Amazon as well as other purchases. As a result I receive many gift certificates in the mail from them.

https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00...esearch13302-20

Jay in MA

I do use a punch and it makes a start for the drill, but as I drill it shifts to the side a little.It seems like the surrounding metal is softer to drill than the stuck bolt.

 

I still have a lot of rusted, and stuck bolts in the car.

I don't know if it is worth trying to get them out.

If I ever have to change any of the exhaust parts I will have to break them off and replace them.

The entire exhaust is rusted very much. I may need to change it all to get CA emissions to pass.

I can't believe my current car passed the smog check when it is clearly not CA emission equipped.

Fortunately I have another year before it has to be tested again.

So the Drill Doctor is a tool that sharpens drill bits?

Is it cheaper than buying new drill bits?

I usually break the smaller drill bits pretty easily.

I think I put too much pressure on them when I am trying to drill.

Did you click on the link provided?

If you use them a lot you'll save a lot of money...good bits aren't cheap.

You are probably putting too much pressure on them because they are dull.

A dull tool is a dangerous tool...........

So the Drill Doctor is a tool that sharpens drill bits?Is it cheaper than buying new drill bits?

 

I usually break the smaller drill bits pretty easily.

I think I put too much pressure on them when I am trying to drill.

I think I will look for some better quality, small drill bits to help drill the stuck bolts out.